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PHOTO 42: Apply glue and glue the reinforcements 58, one on each side of the stern end of the false keel.
PHOTOS 43 - 45: Continue lining and fitting the strips (57) until you have surpassed the top of the bulwarks, and then trim off
the excess as shown in the photo.
PHOTOS 46 - 49: For those gaps where the full width of the strips (57) do not fit make wedges to size, as shown in the photos,
and adjust them using a cutter or file, before gluing them into place to fill the gaps in the hull. Use a flat file to file down the
heads of the pins (A), until they are flush with the surface of the hull.
PHOTOS 50 & 51: Press one of the bow reinforcements (59), without gluing it, up against the first frame. Use a pencil to mark
out the profile of the hull lining on the reinforcement. Remove it and cut it out following the pencil line, then glue it to the first
frame. Do the same to cut out and glue the other three reinforcements (59) into place.
PHOTO 52: Apply glue and attach the stern reinforcements (60 – 65) to the last frame of the hull.
PHOTO 53: Cut to size and glue the strips (66) into place in the area of the stern transom.
PHOTOS 54 - 56: Use a file to file down the reinforcements at both the bow and the stern. The filed down reinforcements must
be a prolongation of the curved shape of the hull. Using a strip of liner make sure there are no step or level differences between
the reinforcements and the lining strips.
PHOTOS 57 & 58: A flat width of 4 mm for the keel must remain, at both bow and stern, after you have sanded down the hull.
Apply crack filling putty if necessary to cover up any imperfections or sunken areas. You must then sand the hull down to
eliminate any excess filler and smooth off the surface.
PHOTOS 59 & 60: Sand down five lining strips (67) and, using a water-based stain, stain them a yellow/orange colour. Now,
using contact adhesive (cobblers' glue), line the stern transom of the hull. It is important that you carefully read the adhesive
manufacturer's usage instructions. Using the wooden handle of a tool press the strips firmly against the structure so that they
will be securely glued in place.
PHOTOS 61 & 67: Glue one of the lining strips (68), at a distance of 120 mm above the false keel, along the length of the hull
from the stern to beyond the bow. Adjust the length of the strip to the lining of the transom. Mark a line along the length of the
hull at the heights shown in the photos, from the top of the bulwarks downwards. Continue fitting lining strips until you reach the
heights indicated in the photos. It is essential that the lining strips are firmly glued to the hull and are fitted tightly against each
other without leaving any gaps.
PHOTOS 68 - 71: Now line the bottom part of the hull, from the initial strip (68) down to the false keel, using the lining strips
(69). Make up wedge shaped pieces to fill in the gaps wherever necessary, as shown in the photo.
PHOTOS 72 & 73: Now line the upper part of the hull, up to the bulwarks, using the lining strips (70), stained blue. Cut off any
excess from these strips until they are flush with the top edge of the bulwarks.
PHOTO 74: Individually sand down the three differentiated hull lining areas until they are smooth to the touch. Then touch up
the different stained areas in order to even up the tonality of the colours.
PHOTO 75: Sand down the rubbing strakes (71) and paint them black. Now glue one to each side of the hull, just above where
the blue and orange lining strips meet.
PHOTOS 76 - 78: Adjust and glue three rubbing strakes (72) onto each side of the hull at the height indicated in the photo. Now
sand them down to even up their surfaces, and then paint them black.
PHOTOS 79 & 80: Line the stern transom reinforcement (73) using the lining sheet (74). Now glue the transom to the stern and
attach it using the pins (A).
PHOTOS 81 & 82: Paint the thin rubbing strakes (75) black and glue them into place just above the rubbing strakes (72). Adjust
them at the stern, as shown.
PHOTOS 83 - 85: Mark out the lines on the hull at the distances shown in the photo. Cut to size and attach the parts (76) and
paint them black. Cut the gallant rails (77, 78 & 79) to size and stain them the colour of sapelli wood, and then glue them to the
bulwarks.
PHOTOS 86 & 87: Use a file to file down the space between the rubbing strakes so that you can fit the bow stem (81).
PHOTO 88: Fit the bow end keel (82), the stern post (83) and the stern end keel (84).
PHOTO 89: Paint the reinforcement (73) blue and set it aside until it has dried. When it is dry glue the stern transom (85) and
the top frame (86) into place.
PHOTOS 90 - 92: Even up the edges of the transom and fit the finishes (87), one on top of the other. Use contact adhesive.
Now stain the finishes the colour of sapelli wood. Finish by applying a coat of colourless, satin-finish, pore-filling lacquer to the
whole of the hull.
PHOTO 93: Now glue parts (88, 89 & 90) onto the stern transom and then cut to size the parts (91) and stain them the colour of
sapelli wood.
PHOTOS 94 & 95: Use a pencil and ruler to make the lengthways marks on the rudder blade (92). Cut to size and glue on the
hinges (93). Make holes and insert and glue into place the pins (A). Cut to size and glue the hinge pins (94).
PHOTO 96: Using a rod and sandpaper, sand the hole into which the rudder blade is fitted.
PHOTOS 97 & 98: Insert the helm into the hole in such a way that the end appears above the deck level. Then make a hole as
marked in the dimensions indicated in the photo.
PHOTO 99: Make up the tiller (95) and attach it to the helm.
PHOTO 100: Align the rudder blade and attach it to the hull using the hinges (93) and the pins (A).
PHOTOS 101 & 102. Soak the breakwaters (96) in water for around twenty minutes, use a cylinder to give them a curved profile
and then glue them together, two by two. Stain them the colour of sapelli wood and glue them into place on the gallant rail at the
bow, as shown. Make up and paint the hawse holes black and glue them to the front of the hull.
PHOTO 103: Make the four holes in the bow bulwark, making sure they coincide with the hawse holes.
PHOTO 104 & 105: Using a cutter or a file make up the Samson posts (98) and stain the colour of sapelli wood.
PHOTO 106: Now make up the columns (99 & 100) and stain them the colour of sapelli wood.
PHOTO 107: Make up the supports (101 & 102) and stain them the same yellow/orange colour you used for the hull.
PHOTO 108: Fit and glue the parts (103, 104, 105 & 106) into place to make up the cabin skylight.
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