Summary of Contents for GREAT PLANES F-4 Phantom II
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Planes reserves the right to change or modify this warranty without notice. In that Great Planes has no control over the final assembly or material used for final assembly, no liability shall be assumed nor accepted for any damage resulting from the use by the user of the final user-assembled product. By the act of using the user-assembled product, the user accepts all resulting liability.
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Suggested Covering Sequence........40 Painting................41 Final Hookups and Checks ..........41 Introduction ..............3 Install the Hinges ............41 Precautions..............3 Install the Main Retract Servo........42 Decisions You Must Make..........3 Attach the Wing Tips..........43 Engine Selection............3 Install the Hardware..........43 Wheel Selection............3 Attach the Canopy & Splitter Plates......44 Preparations ..............3 Set the Control Throws..........44 Required...
Phantom, but for unlimited performance we recommend the Great Planes PT" Series. On the other hand, if you a hot 2-stroke such as an O.S. .61FX or SuperTigre"" have already learned the basics of R/C flying, and you are G61.
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Switch and charge jack (GPMM1000) These are the building tools that are required. We Top Flite LustreKote" Paint - See Painting (page 42) recommend Great Planes Pro" CA and Epoxy glue. 1/16" wing seating tape (GPMQ4422) Silver solder (GPMR8070) 2 oz. Pro CA (Thin, GPMR6003) 6"...
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The two-part plan will need to be cut along the dashed line and taped together. Place wax paper or Great Planes Plan Protector over the plan to prevent glue from sticking to the plan.
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top and bottom surface of the stab until it is flat and even. Be careful not to sand any area of the stab too thin. 1. Glue the shaped 3/8" balsa forward and aft stab 1. Cut a 10-1/2" long piece from the shaped together over the plan.
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C. Use playing cards or business cards to adjust the 2. Cut the fin tip from the remaining 3/8" x 1-3/8" balsa height of the pen until you can mark the centerline. stick. Glue the fin tip to the top of the fin. 3.
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B. Using the bevel to lines and the centerline as a guide, make the "V" on the leading edge of the elevators with a razor plane or your bar sander. 2. Use the same procedure to bevel the leading edge of the rudder.
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4. Drill a 3/32" pilot hole, into the elevator LE, at the centerline and torque rod mark. As you drill the holes keep the drill aligned with the top and bottom surfaces of the elevator. Enlarge the holes with a 1/8" drill. 5.
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Retract Gear 4. Skip to step 5 if you are not installing retracts. If you chose to install retracts, use 30-minute epoxy to glue the die-cut 1/8" plywood rib doublers R-4R to the die-cut 1/8" balsa ribs R-4 and the die-cut 1/8" plywood rib doublers R-5R to the die-cut 1/8"...
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The main wing is built as one assembly, upside down over the wing plan. 1. Cover the wing plan with wax paper or Great Planes Plan Protector. Trim the 3/8" x 3/8" end of two main spars to the angle shown on the plan. Use 6-minute epoxy to glue the ends of two of the main spars together.
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11. Use 30-minute epoxy to glue the center plate in the 15. Trim and glue 3/32" x 2-1/4" x 3" balsa shear webs, notch of rib R-1, bottom main spars and spar joiner. Place perpendicular to the front of the main spars. The shear a piece of wax paper over the assembly at rib R-1 and webs must be glued securely to the main spars.
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Perform steps 1 and 2 only if installing retracts 4. Use 30-minute epoxy to glue the 1/2" x 5/8" x 3/4" hardwood landing gear torque blocks to the top side of the main blocks and the plywood sides of rib R-3. Glue the 5/8" hardwood landing gear gussets to the main block and the plywood sides of rib R-5.
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10. Sand the TE to match the angle of the ribs. Glue two 4. Test fit the LE wing sheet on the wing. Sand a slight 1/16" x 1-1/2" x 24" TE sheets to the TE, sub TE and the bottom of the ribs.
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Perform steps 7 though 14 only if installing retracts 1. Use a hobby knife and sanding bar to remove the jig tabs on the top of the ribs. Sand the TE, main spars, shear webs and the top of the ribs flush. Sand the LE flush with the bottom forward wing sheeting at rib R-8 only.
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17. From the 1/16" x 3/8" x 30" balsa stick, cut and glue cap strips to the top of ribs R-5, R-6, R-7 and R-8. The edge of the cap strip on R-8 should be flush with the side of the rib.
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10. Give the wing an overall rough sanding to blend the sheeting and cap strips together. 5. Check the fit of the aileron torque rods in the slot at the front of the center TE plate. Position the plates over the wing plan.
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Perform the following operation in a well ventilated area with a fan directing the air flow away from you. 1. From a 1/8" x 3/8" x 23-7/8" balsa spar cut the D. Starting at the LE, flow thin CA into the cloth. Smooth forward and aft bottom main spars slightly longer than the cloth down with the squeegee as you work toward the the lengths shown on the wing tip plan.
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sheet. The cap strips on ribs T-2 and T-6 are flush with the outside of the ribs. 12. Trim the LE, LE sheet, spars and TE sheet close to the sides of ribs T-2 and T-6. Sand the LE flush with the top LE sheet.
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19. Use 30-minute epoxy to glue the die-cut 1/8" plywood ribs T-1 to T-2 and T-7 to T-6. Position the ribs so that they overhang slightly at the LE and TE. The overhang will allow the ribs to be sanded flush with the LE 2.
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