Roland NOVA-MOD SH-101 Manual page 5

Tools: solder iron, de-solder tool, knife, modellers saw, drill press, wire strippers and cutters.
1. Remove all knobs.(rotary and linear)
2. Remove back panel. (two of these black screws have a fine thread, note their position)
3. Remove screws to Synth Board and Bender Board.
4. Cut two wire ties (one on Keyboard, one on Synth Board near battery holder and Jack Board)
5. Disconnect two header connectors on Synth Board (these headers are on the battery holder side of the
Synth
Board. All other header connectors and wire interconnects can remain connected)
6. Disconnect the two header connectors that run to the Keyboard. (disconnect at Keyboard end of cables)
7. Gently bend the Synth Board up and remove screws holding Control Board.
8. Remove all screws to Bender Board
9. Remove Synth and Control board assembly. (now is a good time to clean/repair any pots/switches)
10. Remove Keyboard.
11. Drill out holes. (see figure XX) <<Use pilot holes for accuracy and watch for the bit grabbing the plastic!>>
12. De-solder cv gate 1/4" jacks then cut away Jack Board to facilitate 1/4" CV/Gate jack upgrade. Reconnect
cut
traces. (see figure XX)
13. Pre-wire pots, switches, jacks and install. ( It is easiest to attach leads to components before installing.
Please
color code or label the wires so that you will be able to connect them to the correct locations)
14. Cut trace on control board for pulsewidth mod. (see figure XX)
15. Remove IC3 from synth board, bend pins 2 and 3 up then reinstall. (see figure XX)
16. Connect pre-wired, pots, switches, and jacks to the appropriate locations (as per figures XX to XX).
17. Reassemble synth and test. Trouble-shoot any problems.
18. Calibrate synth.
Important Points:
1. It is difficult to remove the control board unless the bender board is free. It can be done but it is easier to do
with
the bender board free.
2. It is very difficult to install the control board unless the bender board is free. Also, placing the power switch
and
associated LED in the correct holes is made easier if you try to focus your attention on this task while installing
the
control board. A slight nudging of the Power LED may be needed help to seat the board.
3. There is very little clearance between the keyboard mechanism and pots/switches (FM source, FM Amount,
Audio
Level, PW Source). It is necessary to flatten all leads from these devices, insulate all leads to prevent shorts,
run
leads away from the keyboard. As well, the keyboard may require two washers (teflon preferred) between it's
mounting posts and metal body to allow enough clearance for these devices. (see figure XXX)
4. Plastic structural bracing will have to be trimmed away in the vicinity of the pots and switches. Use a sharp
Xacto
knife to score the plastic then bend it away until it breaks. Do this after the holes are drilled so that you know
exactly where to cut.
5. Clearances are very tight for the 1/4" CV/Gate mod, as well, cutting a sizable chunk out of a circuit board is
no
easy task. I recommend this task to be done by experienced or very clever people.
6. Many SH-101's have battery acid damage. If you have this misfortune, be sure to clean it from the circuit
boards
and repair any damaged traces.
7. SH-101 sliders are very easy to disassemble and repair once de-soldered. Typically the spring metal contacts
get
bent away from the resistive elements making the slider useless. To repair, simply disassemble the slider,
taking
care to note the orientation of parts, bend back the spring metal contacts, clean the resistive elements and
reassemble.