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HOW TO REPLACE A TILLER
HOUSING COVER (PART #1023)
Remove the tines and tine holders if they have
not already been removed-see page 141. Then,
remove the five socket head screws (Allen
screws) from the tiller housing cover on the left
side of the tiller-see Photo 8/11 in an earlier
portion of this section.
Try to pry off the cover with your fingers;
note how difficult it is to remove.
Place a thick gasket (part #1129-2) on the co-
ver and put the cover in the tiller housing. Put
two socket head screws in and tighten them up
firmly in holes opposite each other on the cover.
With these screws down tight, you should be
able to tell whether the cover is a good fit. There
should not be a great amount of side-play in
the tiller shaft from left to right. But, the cover
should not be so tight that' there is absolutely
no give at all, or it will bind up
on
the bearings.
If you push or pull on the tiller shaft and can
feel virtually no movement, then grab the tiller
shaft in your left hand and on the other side in
your right hand-see Photo 8/22. Try to turn
the tiller shaft forward or backward and see if
you can feel a little bit of backlash (a tiny bit
of movement that stops suddenly) in your right
hand. If these two conditions are met, the tiller
cover is a good fit.
Lack of any side-play of the tiller shaft or
backlash (explained above) indicates the cover
is in too close to the tiller housing. Remove the
cover and add to the gasket thickness-.040 inch
total thickness should relieve the pressure on
the bearings. Too much shaft side-play calls for
less gasket thickness under the cover. Then,
.020 inch total gasket might do it.
When you've determined the proper gasket
combination, put Permatex on the threads of
the remaining three socket head screws and
tighten them down snugly to hold the cover in
place. Then, remove the first two socket head
screws, put Permatex compound on them and
replace them-see Photo 8/23.
After carefully sliding it over the keyway,
put Permatex on the outer edges of a seal (part
#9602) and drive it in place with a 1 W' pipe,
as shown in Photo 8/21. You can also put the oil
seal in the cover before you install the cover,
but be careful not to cut the seal on any sharp
edges of the keyway. A flat block of wood will
drive the seal into the cover lying on a bench
quite nicely. (See the preceding instructions
for replacing a seal in the coveL)
HOW TO REPLACE THE FRONT
OIL SEAL ON THE TILLER
TRANSMISSION
If you suspect that you have transmission oil
leaking from the front end of your tiller, check
it out before you go through a lot of trouble and
work. It could be that there is an engine oil leak
at the power take-off (PTa) shaft of the en-
gine. However, if that is the case, it also might
flow down between the engine and the engine
mount (part #1002).
If you suspect a leak in the front end of your
transmission, the best way to be sure is to look
through the cut-out on the left-hand side of the
engine mount. There is a ledge on the bottom
of the engine mount and oil will collect there.
Of course, the oil could still be coming from the
PTa shaft of the engine. but this will be evident
when you remove the engine.
Also, if you have too much oil in the transmis-
sion of your tiller, it can fool you into thinking
that there is a front end oil seal leak. Check to
make sure the oil is not coming out of the hole
for the reverse spring and plunger (on top of
the transmission) and running down the front
when you tilt the tiller up. Feel around the hole
where the spring is located for oil. If this is the
case, don't worry about the seal. Check your til-
ler transmission oil level. Be sure it is no higher
than the oil level plug 3 inches above the left
wheel axle.
Another possibility is that transmission oil
may be leaking through the gasket between
the transmission cover and the transmission
case when you tilt the tiller up. If you suspect
this, put your finger around the front of the
transmission cover and feel for excessive oil. If
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