Table of Contents
Advertisement
It is a simple matter to check and see if your
crankcase breather has been clogged with oil
and has not been able to function properly be-
cause of it. Underneath the carburetor you will
see (Photo 7/56) that there is a plate fastened
to the side of the engine with two Phillips screws.
It has a rubber hose coming out of it leading di-
rectly up to the air cleaner. This is the valve co-
ver, which also covers the crankcase breather.
Removing the two Phillips screws and the plate
will reveal the crankcase breather underneath it.
When removing the plate, make sure that you
take care not to damage the gasket under the
cover. Be prepared to replace it with a new one,
if necessary.
Inside the tub-like steel breather assembly, you
will probably find an amount of oil. If you look
closely in the bottom center of the breather as-
sembly, you will find a small hole (shown in
Photo 7/57). This hole and a hole on the back
side, in the left corner, are oil drain holes.
Oil that comes into the breather assembly is
supposed to drain back into the engine crank-
case through these holes. Therefore, these holes
must be kept clean and open so that the oil can
return to the crankcase. If they are clogged with
dirt, clean them out with gasoline, and see that
the sponge underneath is also clean.
CAUTION: Make sure that the breather goes
back into the engine with the hole on the bot-
tom. If oil has been dripping from your air
cleaner, remove and clean· the oil from the
sponge. Also clean the excess oil from the air
cleaner cover and the air cleaner base before
you run your engine again. Then, replacing the
cover on the breather assembly with a good
gasket and snuggly tightening up the screws to
allow no air leaks should take care of your pro-
blem, if that is all that it was.
(Photo 7/57) Pencil points to drain hole.
However, if this does not solve your problem,
get in touch with your authorized engine service
dealer to determine whether or not you have pro-
blems with your piston rings, or if your engine
breather assembly needs to be replaced. Please
note that one simple but often overlooked item
that can lead to oil breather problems is a badly
damaged gasket on the dipstick which makes it
impossible for you to tightly seal your dipstick
when you thread it in. So, check the gasket to
make sure that it is a good gasket and doesn't
allow any airto leak in.
CARE AND MAINTENANCE OF THE 12-VOLT
ELECTRIC START SYSTEM (6 HP ENGINES)
Never run the engine on a battery electric
start system with the battery disconnected or
one of the battery terminals disconnected un-
less you remove the fuse from the system's re-
charging line and tape the fuse holder -see
Photo 7/58. Regularly inspect and check all
wires for tightness and to make sure none of the
wires touch any bracket, cases or metal parts on
the tiller or engine. If you think there is a short in
your system, the first thing to look for is all of
these wire connections.
Check each cell in the battery for acid level re-
gularly. Don't let the acid level drop below the
ledge of each cell. If it does go down, use dis-
tilled water to bring it up to level and then run
the engine for about ten minutes to help re-
charge and recirculate the acid.
CHECKING FOR FAULTY KEY SWITCH OR
ITS WIRE
If you turn the key switch to start and nothing
happens, and you know the battery is adequate-
ly charged, test to see if the fault is in the key
switch or its wires. Take a short length of heavy
insulated wire (#10 or larger) and replace the
negative battery cable with it as shown in Photo
1/25. Then, use the battery cable to "jump" the
solenoid between the right post and the center
post as shown in Photo 7/59.
First, make sure that your Forward/Reverse
Lever is in Neutral position, hold the other end
of the wire on the insulated portion several
inches from the end and touch it firmly to the
center post of the solenoid. Make sure that you
touch only the end of the post and not any of the
side casing of the solenoid.
I
117
Hide quick links:
Advertisement
Table of Contents
