Fusion3 F410 User Manual
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Fusion3 F410 User Manual

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F410 USER MANUAL
Revision 1
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4/19/18
1

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Summary of Contents for Fusion3 F410

  • Page 1 F410 USER MANUAL Revision 1 4/19/18...

  • Page 2: Introduction

    This manual will introduce you to your F410 and help you get the most out of the equipment. We realize this is a long document and not everyone is going to read it. So if you want to get printing quickly please see the QuickStart Guide that shipped with your printer.

  • Page 3: Table Of Contents

    Do Not Operate Equipment Unattended ................... 5 Hot Components are Present During Operation ................5 Electrical Shock Hazard ........................5 Setting Up Your F410 ..........................6 Please Retain All Packaging ......................6 Lifting, Carrying, and Transporting ....................6 Finding a Suitable Surface ......................... 6 What is a Suitable Ambient Environment? ..................
  • Page 4 Pausing, Resuming, & Canceling a Print Job ................73 Filament ..............................76 11.1 Storing Filament ..........................76 Maintenance............................78 12.1 Cleaning your F410 ........................... 78 12.2 Cleaning the Print Head ........................78 12.3 Check Heat Break ..........................79 12.4 Tighten Print Head Hot Section ....................... 81 12.5...

  • Page 5: Warnings And Disclaimers

    2.1 Do Not Operate Equipment Unattended While we have designed and manufactured your F410 to minimize the risk of damage if something were to go wrong, the fact is that 3D printing is a highly complex activity that may not work correctly all the time.

  • Page 6: Setting Up Your F410

    Will resist shaking and vibration during the printer’s operation   The rear face of your F410 must be at least 2 inches from any wall or obstruction, to allow adequate ventilation.  The right face needs sufficient clearance for the power cord and for the operator to easily reach the power switch.

  • Page 7: Power

    Thanks to its full enclosure, the F410 is fairly insensitive to air drafts, dust, etc. It’s still better to avoid environments with these characteristics if possible. 3.5 Power Your F410’s peak power draw is approximately 6 amps at 110VAC. Operating draw will depend on the material being printed;...

  • Page 8: Hardware Information

    4 Hardware Information 4.1 Front View 1. Print chamber door (aka Main door) 2. Print chamber 3. Main door lift point 4. Filament bay door 5. Filament bay 6. Filament bay door lift point 7. Control panel...

  • Page 9: Right Side

    4.2 Right Side 1. Electronics bay service door 2. Lift point (left side is identical) 3. Serial number & model number tag 4. Power socket & switch 5. Ethernet port...

  • Page 10: Back

    4.3 Back 1. Print chamber exhaust fan 2. Electronics bay exhaust fan...

  • Page 11: Filament Bay Detail

    4.4 Filament Bay Detail 1. Extruder cold end (aka extruder) 2. Left filament spool track 3. Filament spool holder 4. Filament spool (1kg) 5. Right filament spool track...

  • Page 12: Extruder Cold End Detail

    4.5 Extruder Cold End Detail 1. Feed section & idler bar 2. Spring grabber (use to release idler bar) 3. Filament monitoring section 4. Filament exit tube (aka Bowden tube) 5. Hand feed wheel User touch points are orange on the extruder.
  • Page 13 4.5.1 To Open the Idler Bar Pull up and back (towards yourself) to disengage the springs from the idler bar. Once the springs are disengaged you can easily open the idler bar to expose the feed gear. 1. Feed gear 2.
  • Page 14 4.5.2 To Open the Filament Monitoring Section Use your finger to pull the 2 latch tabs on the door towards you to release them. The door will then pivot up to expose the filament monitor section 1. Filament monitor door (in open position)

  • Page 15: Print Volume Overview

    2. Upper filament wiper foam 3. Filament monitor idler bearing 4. Filament monitor PCB 5. Lower filament wiper foam 6. Filament inlet 4.6 Print Volume Overview 1. Print chamber ventilation fan 2. Print head assembly 3. X axis rail 4. Y axis rails 5.

  • Page 16: Print Head Assembly Detail

    4.7 Print Head Assembly Detail 1. Cooling blower (runs intermittently as needed) 2. X endstop switch 3. Filament feed tube (AKA Bowden tube) 4. Cable chain...
  • Page 17 1. 30mm fan (runs constantly when printer is on) 2. Print head hot section (this gets VERY hot)

  • Page 18: Control Panel Information

    5 Control Panel Information The control panel is a full color resistive-type touchscreen that gives you full control over your F410. It also contains an SD card reader and a hardware “stop/reset” button. 1. Touchscreen interface (see below for more detail) 2.
  • Page 19 On most screens, the temperature readouts for the print head and bed are on the right side of the display. These give you instantaneous access to monitor or adjust the temperatures of both components. 5.1.1 Temperature Readout Colors The temperature readouts will change colors periodically. Here is what those colors mean: ...
  • Page 20 Pressing the box below the temperature readout will open the “set temperature” submenu. 5.1.3 Home Screen 1. Print: Opens the menu to begin printing 2. Maintain Printer: Opens the maintenance menu 3. Temperature controls (see above for more details)
  • Page 21 5.1.4 Begin Printing Screen If you need to load or swap filament, use the “Load Filament” and “Swap Filament” buttons and follow the onscreen prompts. Once you’re ready to begin a print, use the “Select File” button to open the contents of your onboard storage and/or removable SD card.
  • Page 22 5.1.5 Maintenance Screen Use the sub-menus to access various functions for maintaining your printer or performing tasks besides printing a file.

  • Page 23: Web Interface Information

    6 Web Interface Information If connected to your local network, your F410 will set up a web page that allows you to remotely manage the machine. For the most part it duplicates the controls found on the touchscreen, and provides some additional information.

  • Page 24: Web Interface Description

    The web interface is not as simple as the LCD, but it gives you access to roughly the same functionality and controls, they just look a little different. The web interface is divided into tabs, shown vertically on the left side of the screen. Each tab focuses on a various aspect of operating your F410. 6.2.1 Machine Control Tab This is the default tab you will see when you log into the web interface.
  • Page 25 1. Temperature controls: Gives a readout of the current print head and bed temperatures, allows you to set the temperatures manually, and also shows a chart with temperature history. 2. Tab selection box: Toggle between the various tabs with this section 3.
  • Page 26 NOTE: By default, files you upload through the web interface will be put on “card 0”, which is your printer’s internal storage. If you have the external SD card inserted, you can switch to it and upload files to “card 1”. Note: If a print is running, the upload option will be locked out until the print is done.
  • Page 27 6.2.5 Settings Tab This tab allows you to adjust your preferences for the network UI, as well as acting like a system editor. In general we recommend leaving the settings as-is.

  • Page 28: Changing The Web Interface Configuration

    Or, you can simply access them by their IP addresses. To change the website name, locate the line in config.g that begins with “M550 PFusion3 F410”. The characters after the “P” are the name of your printer and will also be used as the web address for...

  • Page 29: Compatibility Information

    6.3.2 Login Password To change the login password, locate the line that begins with “M551 Pfusion3”. The characters after the “P” are the login password. 6.3.3 Assigning a Static IP Address If you need to assign the printer a static IP and/or adjust other networking settings, you can do so on the M552, M554, and M553 lines.

  • Page 30: Software Information (Aka Working With Simplify3D)

    This is not intended to be comprehensive. If you have additional questions please contact us! Simplify3D is written, maintained, and sold by www.simplify3d.com; it is not a product of Fusion3. We bundle Simplify3D with our printers and provide tier 1 technical support for this software.
  • Page 31 Models List: Shows a list of all models currently on the build plate. You can import more than 1 model at once to print them all simultaneously. “Center & Arrange” button: Click this to automatically arrange the parts on the build plate so that they don’t overlap.

  • Page 32: Processes & Profiles

    For your F410, we’ve built a separate profile for each material and for each nozzle size (0.4, 0.6, and 0.8mm). The base settings in each process are set up to work for most prints. So when you’re getting started, you should just need to select the right material profile and click “Prepare to Print”.
  • Page 33 4. Quality presets (only applies to some profiles) 5. Sparse infill % slider 6. Raft toggle (leave this off 99% of the time; the F410 rarely needs rafts) 7. Support generation toggle (leave this on unless you know your part does not need support)
  • Page 34 7.3.2 Selecting a Profile Ensure the material preset you select matches the material you have loaded into your F410! 7.3.3 Making Changes to Profiles You can make non-permanent and permanent changes to Profiles. If you make a non-permanent change to a Profile (for example, turning support off), you will see the word “modified”...
  • Page 35 To make a permanent change to a profile, simply make your change and then click the “Update Profile” button. If you wish to save your changes as a new profile (recommended), you can click “Save as New” instead. This will prompt you to name the new profile and will add a new entry to the drop-down list. 7.3.4 Commonly Adjusted Parameters Most of our profiles do not have different quality levels specified.
  • Page 36 Infill Infill amount can be adjusted via the slider at the top. More detailed settings are found on the “Infill” tab. On this tab you can also change the infill type. Certain types of infill, such as full hexagonal and grid, can be stronger than rectilinear but also have downsides.

  • Page 37: Managing S3D Profiles

    Speed Print speed is adjusted on the “Other” tab. You should only adjust the “Default printing speed”; please leave other values as-is. Remember that printing faster will result in somewhat lower output quality, and depending on your part may not result in much time savings. 6000 mm/min is 100mm/s. 7.4 Managing S3D Profiles Having the correct profiles imported into Simplify is key to getting good results;...
  • Page 38 7.4.1 Importing Profiles 1. Go to File > Import FFF Profile. 2. Navigate to the folder where the .fff files are located. 3. Select one or multiple profiles (you can import multiple at the same time). 4. Once the profiles are imported, you will get a confirmation message. 7.4.2 Deleting Profiles 1.

  • Page 39: Simplify3D Build Estimates

    7.4.3 When New Profiles are Published 1. Periodically, we will publish sets of updated and new profiles for you to use. 2. Before importing these into Simplify, we recommend you first remove all of the old profiles you have, to avoid confusion. 3.

  • Page 40: Support Structures

    7.6 Support Structures Your F410 prints breakaway support structures out of the same material that the part is made out of. Using this technique, you can make complex shapes without the need for soluble support or a second print head (which adds complexity and cost).
  • Page 41 7.6.2 When Should I Change These Values?  If you are using tall layer heights (0.3mm or larger) you may want to set the Upper/lower separation to 0 layers. This will result in a strong bond but better surface finish. ...
  • Page 42 The Support Generation box will pop up. This box has 3 main sections:...
  • Page 43 Automatic placement; these controls are duplicates of what’s on the Support tab. Click  “generate automatic supports” to see a preview of where Simplify thinks support is needed.  Manual placement; Allows you to manually add or remove support by using your mouse. ...

  • Page 44: Working With .Factory Files

    7.7 Working with .factory Files .factory files are another great innovation Simplify has developed. A .factory file combines your model(s), any custom support structure, and your processes into a single file. This allows you to easily save past print jobs and reopen them to make changes to settings, or just use it as a reference for other prints.
  • Page 45 Thanks to its enclosure and high temperature heated bed, the F410 is relatively immune from this problem. However it can still occur with large parts out of high temperature materials such as ABS, Acrylic, PC, etc. If you see curling, ensure your first layer height is correct (see section 12.1) and you are using the recommended bed coating for that material.
  • Page 46 When in doubt, preview the gcode and make sure it makes sense! 7.8.4 Repairing Models While Simplify has some built-in options for repairing broken models, we’ve had the best luck with an online tool called Netfabb cloud. This is a free service that will automatically repair any STL you upload and give you a fixed version to download.
  • Page 47 7.8.6 Other  Setting up multiple processes to fine-tune how parts are printed: https://www.simplify3d.com/support/tutorials/working-with-file-types/ Using the “Place Surface on Bed” function:  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XJi4_ScDLtE  Mirroring mesh: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q5kPGHaBy3c  Using the cross-section tool: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rog5coZPOYU...

  • Page 48: Sd Card Information

    On Card 0, you should not add, delete, or modify any files outside of the “gcodes” directory beyond what is described in this manual or as instructed by Fusion3 Customer Support. Doing so can result in your F410 malfunctioning or not functioning at all. Card 0 MUST be installed in order for your F410 to operate.

  • Page 49: Information On Interchangeable Print Heads

    0.8mm: This is the largest print head we offer for the F410. It’s identifiable by a blue collar on the top of the print head. If you need dramatically more throughput than the 0.4 and print resolution is not a concern, this may be a good choice for you.

  • Page 50: Basic Tasks

    10 Basic Tasks 10.1 Opening & Closing the Doors The main door and filament door on your F410 have high-friction hinges to help the doors stay open on their own. When opening the doors, take care not to open them too far, as this can cause them to fall backwards.
  • Page 51 10.2.1 Software: Preparing Your File The first step is to design your file in a CAD program of your choice. Any program that can save a .STL file format is fine to use. Once you save your model as a .STL file, you import that into Simplify3D using the “Import” button in the models section of the interface.
  • Page 52 Next, add a Process and make sure the profile you’ve selected matches the material you have loaded, or will load, into your printer. Now is also the time to make any changes to the settings if you need to. Next, click the “Prepare to Print” button. Simplify3D will slice your model and give you a preview of the toolpath (how it’s going to build the part).
  • Page 53 Simplify3D also gives you a build time estimate and material usage estimate in the top left corner. Remember to multiply the time by 1.4 for a more accurate estimate. If you need to make any changes to the Process settings, you can click “Exit Preview Mode” to go back and make changes, and then re-slice the model.
  • Page 54 Once you are happy with the preview, click “Save Toolpath to Disk” to save the .GCODE file. NOTE: Do not use the “Begin Printing over USB” button. Your F410 cannot be connected to a computer over USB so this button will not work.
  • Page 55 If your F410 is on your local network, you can upload this file through the web interface. Transfer via “Sneakernet” Make sure your F410 is not currently running a print. Remove the external SD card from the LCD panel and carry it back to your computer.
  • Page 56 Before printing your file make sure you have completed the Hardware prep! 10.2.2 Hardware: Preparing Your Printer Clean the bed: If there is residue (priming skirt or old gluestick) on the bed from a previous print, clean it off as described in section 9.6. Prep the bed: Apply fresh gluestick to the bed as described in section 10.9.
  • Page 57 A confirmation box will pop up. Click “Yes” and the print will start. 2) Via the Control Panel From the home screen, select “Print”.
  • Page 58 If you need to load or swap filament, do so at this time. Remember that the filament type you load into the printer must match what you have sliced your file for. When you’re ready to print, (filament loaded, bed prepped), press “select file”. Navigate to where you saved your gcode file.

  • Page 59: Removing A Finished Print

    Select your file, and then click “Print” in the box that pops up. It’s a good idea to double check the file name in this box before you hit print – it’s easy to select the wrong file by accident. The sequence at the beginning of a print is as follows: 1.

  • Page 60: Leveling The Print Bed

    10.4.1 System Description Your F410 has 2 bed leveling systems: a manual leveling system and an automatic system that detects the level of the bed and compensates for it during a print. While getting the bed exactly level is not critical to printing on your F410, you will get best results if the bed is level.
  • Page 61 On the bottom of the bed plate you will see a small red thumbscrew at each corner of the bed. This is used to adjust the height of the bed corner. Turning it counter-clockwise will lower the bed corner. And turning it clockwise will raise the bed corner. On each corner of your bed is an approximately 2”...
  • Page 62 LCD: Maintain Printer > Bed Leveling > Auto Bed Leveling 10.4.2 Manual Leveling New to the F410, the manual bed leveling process now has a “wizard” assistant that guides you step-by- step through the leveling process. Before you begin, make sure the bed is clean of all gluestick and print residue or debris.
  • Page 63 This allows you to easily make small and large adjustments to the height of the bed. Here at Fusion3 we like to back-light the rear face of the printer to help us see the gap more clearly. See the image below for an example of this back-lighting and what the gap should look like.

  • Page 64: Loading Filament

    10.5 Loading Filament Your F410’s filament handling system is designed to accommodate a wide range of filament spool sizes from 1lb with a 0.5” center hole, all the way up to 4kg rolls. The max spool dimensions are 12 inches in diameter and 6.0 inches in width or thickness.
  • Page 65 For large diameter spools, the included spool holder will not let the spool clear the bottom of the extruder. For these spools, we have designed a “dropped” spool holder that you can print yourself. This file is located on your external SD card; it’s called TBD. First, insert the filament dowel through the center hole of the spool.
  • Page 66 Open the Filament Monitoring section of the Extruder and feed the filament into the inlet on the far side of the encoder wheel. After about an inch, you will feel the end of the filament bump into the feed gear. Continue to push gently while slowly turning the manual feed knob.
  • Page 67 NOTE: You do not need to open the idler bar in order to load filament. Continue to turn the wheel until you see the filament protrude into the feed tube about 1 inch. Close the Filament Monitoring section door. You will hear a click as the latch tabs engage to indicate it’s fully closed.
  • Page 68 To finish the load filament procedure, go to one of the following on the LCD:  Print > Load Filament  Maintain Printer > Filament > Load Filament Press the button and the load filament sequence will start. The printer will heat the print head and automatically advance the filament into the print head, and run enough through the print head to flush out all traces of the old filament.

  • Page 69: Unloading Filament

    10.5 to perform a filament swap. 10.7.2 During a Print New to the F410 is a mid-print filament swap wizard. This is useful if:  You notice you are running out of filament mid-print and do not want to wait for the filament detection system to pause the print for you.
  • Page 70 Use your fingers or your part scraper to remove the priming skirt (the loop printed around your part) and the priming pile from the bed. Use a spray bottle filled with normal tap water to wet the bed down. This will cause the glue to turn purple again.

  • Page 71: Preparing The Print Bed

    If you’re immediately starting another print, make sure the bed is dry before applying fresh gluestick. 10.9 Preparing the Print Bed Use the gluesticks included with your toolkit to apply one or more even layers of glue (depending on your material) to the bed. ...
  • Page 72  For ABS, use 3 layers of glue applied at 0, 90, and 45 degrees. For most other materials, use 2 layers of glue applied at 0 and 90 degrees. NOTE: Due to the rapidly changing nature of the material landscape, the most up-to-date information on bed preparation, profiles to use, and other information for specific materials is in a separate document on our website.

  • Page 73: Moving Axes By Hand

    10.11 Pausing, Resuming, & Canceling a Print Job Your F410 allows you to pause, resume, and cancel prints. When certain errors are generated, the print job will also be paused automatically to give you the opportunity to correct the error and resume the print.
  • Page 74 Since the print head is allowed to cool, you can pause your F410 for extended periods if you need to. However we recommend keeping pauses as short as possible, since the motors and bed are still energized.
  • Page 75 Once the print head is up to temperature, the print will automatically resume. 10.11.3 Canceling a Print Job A print job must be paused before it can be canceled. If you need to immediately stop a print job, please use the physical orange STOP / RESET button next to the LCD. While the print job is paused, instead of selecting Resume, select Cancel to halt the print job.

  • Page 76: Filament

    11 Filament We have an open materials philosophy: We do not require you to buy filament from us, nor do we equip our products with DRM or other technology to control what filament is used. That said, there is a lot of poor quality filament on the market. Using this filament may produce poor results and also may damage your printer.
  • Page 77 Your F410 includes a built-in filament wiper in the extruder to reduce the amount of dust drawn into the system. We still recommend keeping your printer and filament in a dust-free environment if possible.

  • Page 78: Maintenance

    NOTE: Please do not use cleaners such as Windex, rubbing alcohol, acetone, or other solvents on ANY part of your F410. These cleaners can damage the unit. Please use tap water only. 12.2 Cleaning the Print Head It’s a good idea to keep the underside of the print head relatively clear of debris and molten plastic.

  • Page 79: Check Heat Break

    If you see dark, burnt-looking plastic that has appeared on top of the heater block, this is a sign the print head may be leaking. Please see section 12.4 to correct this. Note: It’s normal for the surface of the print head to become dark and coated with carbon after a while. This buildup does not pose an issue and can be left alone.
  • Page 80 Service interval: When the print head is cleaned WITH THE PRINT HEAD COLD, grasp the heater block with your fingers and gently twist it counter- clockwise. If you see it spin independently of the cold section, that means it’s come loose. If it is loose: Remove the 30mm fan and duct from the cold section.

  • Page 81: Tighten Print Head Hot Section

    12.4 Tighten Print Head Hot Section Periodically, especially if you run exotic or extremely high temperature filaments, you may find molten filament oozing out of your print head’s hot section like lava. Typically this is dark in color, and may come from the top of the hot block or from directly above the nozzle.
  • Page 82 12.5.1 Feed Gear Debris Service interval: every time you change filament spools With filament removed from the extruder, open the idler bar. Visually inspect the teeth in the metal feed gear for debris. Rotate the extruder by hand and inspect the full gear. If you see debris in the teeth, use the toothbrush included in your toolkit to brush the debris out of the teeth.
  • Page 83 If you have plastic safe Loctite on hand, you may want to completely remove the screws, add plastic safe Loctite, and then reinstall them. Slide the motor up until the gears mesh firmly. Tighten the 3 screws finger tight. Spin the gears at least 2 full rotations by hand and make sure they spin freely with no binding. If there are tight spots, rotating the gears should allow them to self-adjust.
  • Page 84 Once the gears mesh well all the way around, firmly tighten all 3 motor screws. Reinstall the extruder onto the printer. 12.5.3 Spring Preload Service interval: Every time you change filament spools The idler bar spring preload is critical to ensuring the extruder can generate sufficient grip on the filament.

  • Page 85: Check & Adjust Bearing Preload

    If you need to adjust the springs, use the 2.5mm hex wrench from your toolkit. 12.6 Check & Adjust Bearing Preload The linear motion assemblies on your F410 have adjustable preload. Periodically inspect them to ensure they are still tight on the rails for best performance.

  • Page 86: Check & Adjust Drive Cable Tension

    If there is little to no resistance, the preload is too loose. Use the preload adjustment wrench (download from our website: https://fusion3design.com/manuals) to rotate the eccentric cams to adjust the preload. You can also use two 13mm wrenches with the handles lined up. NOTE: It’s possible to over-tighten the cams.
  • Page 87 This makes it easy to adjust the square if needed. Here at Fusion3, we use a 12 inch carpenter’s square with 2.5 inches cut out of the vertex as a tool to check the square of the X axis. This is faster than measuring.
  • Page 88 You can also measure the distance from the x axis to the front brace as shown below. It doesn’t matter exactly where you measure from, just so long as you’re consistent. Move the X axis to the back of the machine and measure the points shown below.
  • Page 89 The easiest way to adjust the cable tension is to rotate the idler brackets. If One Cable is Loose, or You are Adjusting the X Axis Square: You will need a 4mm hex wrench and a 10mm wrench. At the rear of the print volume there is a bracket that holds 2 idler pulleys on each Y rail. One of these pulleys is mounted in a slot.

  • Page 90: Adjusting Configuration Values

    By removing the SD card, placing it in your computer, and editing the file in a text file. 12.8.2 Editing Config.g Through the Network Interface 1. Make sure your F410 is powered on and on your network. Also make sure it’s not running a print job.
  • Page 91 5. When you are done, click “save”. Select “Yes” when it asks you if you want to reboot for changes to take effect. The web interface will log you off while the printer reboots; this is normal. 12.8.3 Editing Config.g Directly Note: This approach is not recommended since it requires opening your printer’s electronics bay, removing the internal SD card, and some text editors may corrupt the file.

  • Page 92: Removing & Installing The Print Bed

    The line in config.g that you need to change is: For the F410, the probe offset is normally 0.00 or close to it. You can see in our example it’s set to -0.05. Note the comment: Smaller number = further away from bed. This means: ...
  • Page 93 Now you can lift the glass bed up slightly and slide it out from under the rear clips. The aluminum plate below the glass will stay in place. Install the new bed by laying it flat on the aluminum plate, then sliding it under the rear corner clips. You may need to reach under the bed substrate to hold the clip up while you do this.

  • Page 94: Removing & Installing A Print Head

    NOTE: The glass is not square, so it matters which way you install it. NOTE: There will be some variation in the size of the glass. If you find your new piece won’t fit in between the corner clips, simply loosen the M3 screw holding the “L” shaped clip in place, and slide it to adjust the fit.
  • Page 95 Tug the tube retention plate straight up until the M3 screws are clear of the print head body. Now slide the aluminum clamp plate straight forward and remove it.
  • Page 96 At this point, the print head may freely drop out of the print head body and dangle from its wires. Or, you may need to gently tug it free by pulling straight down and slightly wiggling side-to-side. If you are taking the head off to attempt to clear a jam, skip the rest of these steps and leave the print head electrically connected to the printer.
  • Page 97 NOTE: Take care not to accidentally cut the wires when you cut the zip ties. Now the print head is free of the printer. NOTE: DO NOT DISASSEMBLE THE PRINT HEAD FURTHER THAN THIS. Doing so can damage components and cause it to not work properly. DO NOT ATTEMPT TO REMOVE THE NOZZLE FROM THE HOT BLOCK.
  • Page 98 Press the print head into the pocket on the underside of the part. It should be a light press fit so you can press it in and then it will stay put by itself. Orient the print head so the flat face of the heater block faces forward and the red wires are on the left side and the blue wires are on the right side.
  • Page 99 Slide the clamp plate in. Note that the PEM nuts go on the bottom face. Push the tube retention plate down into position (make sure the feed tube nut is still in the pocket) and begin to thread the screws into the clamp plate. Tighten the screws in an alternating pattern to make sure the print head is seated squarely.

  • Page 100: Replacing Damaged Foil Tape

    Retain the wires with zip ties so the wiring looks similar to how it looked when you cut the originals:  One zip tie should hold the thermistor connector to the heater cartridge wires (thick red). The thermistor leads (small blue) should have a small amount of slack between the connector and the print head block.

  • Page 101: Lubrication

    All other moving components utilize sealed cartridge ball bearings and rolling contact, and should NOT be lubricated by the user! 12.12.1 Lubricant to use: Use only a plain white lithium grease to lubricate these components. Here at Fusion3 we use this Lucas Oil product.

  • Page 102: Removing & Installing The Extruder

    In the US this can be found at any Lowe’s hardware store. PLEASE DO NOT USE “lithium grease” from a can such as Liquid Wrench lubricants. These contain solvents and will attack and damage the plastic components in your F410. USE OF OTHER LUBRICANTS MAY VOID YOUR WARRANTY.
  • Page 103 Disconnect the 3 electrical connectors: Extruder motor: This wire plugs into the white socket on the rear of the extruder. DO NOT tug on this connector by the wires as you may break them. Grasp the top and bottom of the connector body (there are some small flanges you can grab with your fingernail) and remove it from the motor.
  • Page 104 Filament Monitor: This harness plugs into the connector towards the front of the extruder. It’s just a friction fit. Use the 3mm wrench from your toolkit to remove the 3 M5 button head screws from the inside of the print volume. You may need to use pliers to stabilize the standoffs so they don’t rotate while you loosen the screws.
  • Page 105 Now the extruder can be removed from the printer. 12.13.2 Installation Install the 3 M5 screws that hold the extruder onto the standoffs. Place the feed tube into the tube clamp. It’s very important that the flats on the nuts are UP and DOWN. If the nuts are not oriented correctly the feed tube won’t line up with the filament path and the printer will not operate correctly.

  • Page 106: Accessing The Electronics Bay

    Install the clamp block and tighten the 2 M3 screws. Install the electrical connectors. The fan and motor connectors are polarized and will only connect one way (the correct way). Make sure you install the filament monitor wire with the WHITE wire CLOSEST to you.
  • Page 107 Remove the door by lifting the back edge up and out, and then rotating the door to remove it from the printer. Follow the numbered steps below (this looks complicated but it’s easy once you do it the first time). Now you have access to the electronics bay.
  • Page 108 Rotate and slide it into position. Make sure you:  Do not pinch any wires between the door and the printer as you install it  Ensure the tabs on the bottom edge are fully seated in their slots. The outside of the door will be flush with the outside of the printer when it’s positioned correctly.
  • Page 109 Reinstall the 3 screws.

  • Page 110: Troubleshooting

    This is important because an incorrect first layer height can result in a failed print later. Your F410, thanks to its auto bed leveling system, takes most of the guesswork out of this, but it’s still possible that adjustment will be needed.
  • Page 111 In less extreme cases you will see excess plastic bulging up in rows as shown on the right side of the graphic. Usually it’s ok to let the print continue if you see something like the picture in the graphic; your part will remain stuck to the bed just fine.

  • Page 112: Network & Connectivity Issues

    PLEASE NOTE: For customers on complex corporate or university networks, you may need to consult with your IT department to correctly configure your F410. Fusion3 is able to provide assistance in verifying the printer itself is working properly, but we may not be able to completely solve all network related issues without assistance from your network administrator.

  • Page 113: Recovering From A Print Head Jam

     The only two pieces of equipment on the network should be the F410 and your test computer. Repeat the tests in the previous sections. If you can connect to the printer and use it on this test network, the problem lies in your facility’s ...
  • Page 114 1. Unplug the 30mm fan’s connector, or use something like the tail of a zip tie to stall the fan. 2. Power the printer on. Manually heat the print head to 230 C (use 250 C for higher temperature materials like ABS). 3.

  • Page 115: Getting Help

    14 Getting Help Two ways to contact Fusion3 Customer Support:  support@fusion3design.com  877-452-0010 extension 2 Our support line is staffed M-F 8am to 8pm Eastern time. Within these hours, our goal is to respond to issues within an hour.

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