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ABOUT THE RC10T2
Congratulations on your new RC10T2 model truck
kit purchase. We would like to tell you a little bit about your
new truck and its history. Team Associated developed the
first version of the RC10T in 1990. This was the first
production truck to be designed from the ground up to be a
truck. Before the RC10T, trucks were merely modified
buggies with truck parts added. Since the original version,
there were two additional models of the RC10T, the #7011
Sport Truck kit and the #7035 Team Truck kit, our race truck
version.
With the RC10T2 we have moved trucks to the next
level of performance. Associated has known for years about
the advantages of an aluminum chassis. Starting from the
ground up we developed a completely new one. This new
computer-designed aircraft aluminum alloy hard anodized
chassis provided us with improved front-to-rear rigidity, chas-
sis side clearance, and reduced weight, but still providing you
with a low center of gravity. The hard anodized finish im-
proves its durability. We designed along with it our new
integral rear end assembly. This consists of the rear bulk-
head, shock strut, transmission case, motor plate and guard.
When all of this is assembled you have one of the most rigid
production main chassis structures available on any R/C
truck today. This overall improved stiffness is one of the more
obvious refinements.
Part of the improved rear structure includes the new
2.60:1 low profile Assoc. transmission. It features a larger
diff for increased torque capacity and reduced maintenance.
It will also allow you to run even higher rpm modified motors
without the normal gearing problems. This will give you the
improved quickness and top speed you need to dominate
your competition. But the design changes do not end here.
The new transmission also has a new two piece motor plate
and motor guard assembly. At the same time you will find a
new lighter rear bulkhead and rear shock strut which inter-
lock with the transmission case.
You will find our latest suspension and steering
geometry changes give you a more aggressive yet easier
handling truck with improved traction and rough track perfor-
mance. The ease with which your new truck handles benefits
both the new and experienced driver. You will find an
improved battery mounting system designed for both six or
seven cell battery packs. It can handle matched packs or
stick packs and is designed to let you use either plugs or hard
wire solder connections.
In the #7012 sport version you will find bronze
bushings throughout, gold anodized shocks, three piece
wheels with multi surface tires, dog bones and stub axles,
mechanical speed control (with forward and brakes only) and
a kit DS Spec motor. In the original #7036 ball bearing version
you will find a new, Associated-designed, universal dogbone
axle which is stronger and lighter and made to closer toler-
ances. To put the power to the ground this version also
includes some of the same tires we race with. The Proline
XTR compound "Edge" front tires and "Mini Pin" rear tires
(with front and rear foam inserts) for improved steering and
traction. You still get our race proven hard anodized PTFE
coated shocks and PTFE shock pistons, Associated Torque
Control transmission clutch, and one piece racing wheels.
To cover all of these new race enhancements both kits have
a new racing truck body with a low center of gravity design.
How does this truck perform? The pre-production
prototype TQ'ed both stock and modified classes and won
the Stock National title at the 1994 ROAR Truck Nationals in
Garden Grove, Calif. It then TQ'd and won the first NORRCA
Electric Truck World Cup. It also TQ'd at the 1995 Winter
Championships in Tampa, Florida.
All of the above changes mean your new RC10T2
truck kit is the finest race truck available. After you have
driven your truck you will find out why Associated has won
more World Championship and National titles than any other
manufacturer. If you refer back to pages two and three of this
manual you will see pictured the major features of the ball
bearing truck kit. The back cover shows the bushing kit
features.
BEFORE YOU BEGIN
Many people will feel the photos are detailed enough
to think they will not need to read the instructions. This is not
true. In addition to all of the photos there is important
information to assemble your truck found only in the text.
Even though you have the best truck kit available, if you want
the best COMPLETED TRUCK then you will want to put it
together correctly by following both text and photos.
This manual also covers two versions of the truck so
you will also find sections that are specific to one version
only. When possible we have combined the same steps for
both versions. This was done to eliminate confusion and to
show you how to correctly assemble the parts if you ever
decide to upgrade your sport version.
❑ Step 1
OPEN THE PARTS BAGS WHEN THE STEP
SPECIFIES, NOT BEFORE, otherwise you'll get the parts
mixed up and then you will have trouble assembling your
truck. When you open each main bag for the first time, check
the contents against the separate parts list sheet (accompa-
nying the manual) for that bag. This sheet shows the
contents of each bag by part number and quantity. All parts
bags are referred to by number or name in the instructions.
The unlabeled bags inside the main parts bags share the
same bag number as the bag they came out of.
❑ Step 2
KEEP THE PARTS SEPARATE. While
building the truck you will sometimes be working with several
bags at the same time. Try not to confuse the parts from one
bag with the parts from another. Large paper plates (espe-
cially picnic plates with partitions) are ideal for both keeping
parts separate and spreading them out where you can find
them easier. Mark the plates with bag numbers and dump the
parts into them. When the parts are used up, relabel the plate
for the next bag.
❑ Step 3
CHECK FOR SUPPLEMENTARY SHEETS
page 4
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Related Manuals for Associated Electrics RC10T2
Summary of Contents for Associated Electrics RC10T2
-
Page 1: Before You Begin
After you have With the RC10T2 we have moved trucks to the next driven your truck you will find out why Associated has won level of performance. Associated has known for years about more World Championship and National titles than any other the advantages of an aluminum chassis. - Page 2 WHICH LIST NEW KIT UPDATES. Because Associated is WARNING! Do not use a power screwdriver to install screws into nylon parts. The rotation speed is too fast, constantly working on new ideas to improve our products, we occasionally make updates to our kits. These updates may causing the screws to heat up when being driven into composites or nylon and they will strip out.
- Page 3 #7 26 0 4-40 th in p la in nu t © 1996 ASSOCIATED ELECTRICS, INC. 3585 Cadillac Ave. Costa Mesa, CA 92626 Fig. 2 ❏ Figs. 3 & 4...
- Page 4 side. (2) Now reinstall one of the #6223 kingpins through ❏ Fig. 5 each of the carrier block/axle assemblies as shown in figs. 7 You will find the two #6220 aluminum inline front & 8. Try to center the kingpins. (3) Fig.9 shows a package of axles in bag #7-1.
- Page 5 set screws onto the .050 Allen wrench and carefully thread the set screw into the back of the front axle until it tightens down on the kingpin as shown in fig. 9. (5) Do the same with the other axle assembly. #62 99 Fig.
- Page 6 Fig. 15 #7 26 0 Fig. 17 #627 0 4-40 4-40 th in p la in nu t # 69 25 # 69 27 4 -4 0 x 1 /2 4 -4 0 x 3 /4 Fig. 16 ❏ Figs. 17, 18 & 19 (1) From bag #6-14 remove two #6270 short steel ball ends, two #7260 4-40 small pattern thin plain nuts, and two of the #6272 foam ball end dust...
- Page 7 threads on the other end, so they will screw on in different directions. This will allow us to simply turn the turnbuckles (from the hex center section) with the #6955 shock/turn- buckle wrench to make adjustments. 2.94" (2 15/16", 74.60mm) #6274 #7253 #6274...
- Page 8 the right forward hole of the nose plate. (7) When everything looks lined up and threaded correctly you can then finish tightening up the three screws as shown in fig. 28. Fig. 27 # 62 80 Fig. 25 8 -3 2 x 1 /2 a lu minu m ❏...
- Page 9 ❏ Figs. 32 & 33 ❏ Figs. 30 & 31 Now we need to go back to bag #6- (1) Take out the #9157 servo saver 14 and remove five #6270 short steel ball ends and four spring and the #9157 aluminum spring adjusting nut from bag #6272 foam ball end dust covers.
- Page 10 ❏ Fig. 37 In bag #7-2 you will find two #7253 2.62" turnbuckles. From bag #6-14 remove four #6274 ball cups. Thread the ball cups onto each end of the two turnbuckles. Remember the turnbuckles have both right and left hand threads, and on one end of each turnbuckle the ball cup will thread on the opposite way.
- Page 11 pointing straight up, not at an angle, when installed as shown in fig. 40. Fig. 42 # 62 91 4 -4 0 x 1 /4 Fig. 38 2.60:1 T2 TRANSMISSION The new T2 Tranny is our latest electric truck version Fig.
- Page 12 any other balls except our #6581 carbide diff balls The 5/32" x 5/16" unflanged bronze bushings. WARNING!! On tolerances we use are tighter than most other companys'. bushing kits both the #6596 and #6597 bushings have Due to these tight tolerances and careful packaging of the same outside diameter;...
- Page 13 diff outdrive hub, which could damage parts or reduce the the same time with new balls from the same package. This means you cannot even mix balls from two separate performance of the diff. Slide the diff spring into the left diff outdrive hub.
- Page 14 Fig. 51 Fig. 53 #6 589 5 /3 2 x 5/1 6 u nfla ng ed b ea rin g ❏ Figs. 54 & 55 (1) With the Allen wrench still in the ❏ Fig. 52 diff bolt, turn the right hub so that the end of the bolt is facing Go back to your #6950 tool bag and remove up.
- Page 15 want to remind you that this diff is not designed to slip. We use the torque clutch to control any slippage the truck needs. This is why the wrong diff lube or silicone compound can allow the diff to slip. This would reduce the transmissions performance and increase the parts wear.
- Page 16 ❏ Figs. 63, 64 & 65 We are now going to install the other gears into the right transmission housing. (1) First we need to install the second #7669 drive shaft spacer onto the outer end of the #6571 drive shaft/gear assembly. (2) now Fig.
- Page 17 housing, from the left hand side, as shown. Now thread the #6925 SHCScrew into the bottom front hole of the housing. This is done from the left hand side as well. WARNING!: Make sure that the #7669 drive shaft spacer is still on the outer shaft end before closing up the transmission case halves.
- Page 18 #6585 Rulon clutch disc. It also shows the two parts as- sembled. Now it is time to complete the assembly of the torque clutch. In bag B you will find the #6596 3/16" x 5/16" unflanged bushing. Remember all versions of the truck use this bushing in the torque clutch.
-
Page 19: Rear End Assembly
❏ Fig. 79 Back in fig. 46 we set aside the #6575 nylon diff thrust bolt cover (looks like a thin version of the #6575 T- nut without the steel insert). We are now going to install this into the right (passenger side) diff outdrive. This is used to cover the head of the diff bolt and to help keep dirt out of the thrust bearing assembly. - Page 20 Fig. 83 Fig. 81 ❏ Figs. 82, 83 & 84 (1) In bag #7-4 you will find Fig. 84 the #7352 black fiberglass rear shock strut. (2) Now go back to bag #7-5 and remove the two #7323 rear body mounts and two #7323 rear body mount posts, two #6285 4-40 x 1/4"...
- Page 21 Fig. 88 Fig. 86 # 69 17 4 -40 x 3 /8 ❏ Fig. 87 From bag #7-4 remove the two #6923 4-40 Fig. 89 x 3/4" FHSScrews. We now need to line up the bulkhead and shock strut assembly with the front of the new transmission. Make sure that the two center countersunk holes of the rear bulkhead are facing away from the transmission and that the body mounts and ball ends are on the same side as the...
- Page 22 that we have the transmission and motor guard secured we can now go back and tighten all of the screws in figs. 91 & 92. Fig. 90 Fig. 93 #62 92 # 62 91 4-40 x 3 /8 4 -4 0 x 1 /4 ❏...
- Page 23 through the arm and the mount (6) and then install an E-clip on each end of the pin. Remember, we want the pin to be tight in the mount but free on the arm. Refer to fig. 99 for assembly detail.
- Page 24 BUSHING KIT: (1) Slide one of the #7360 bushings onto the #6374 rear stub axle. (2)Now slide the rear stub axle and bushing into the back side of the #7365 rear hub carrier. (3) Next install the second #7360 bushing over the axle and push it into the front of the hub carrier.
- Page 25 spacer. Line up the pin holes in the arm and hub carrier. (4) Install the outer hinge pin through the forward pin hole of the A-arm then through the hub carrier. (5) Now place the nylon spacer between the hub carrier and the rear arm pin hole and push the pin through the spacer and rear arm pin hole.
- Page 26 end dog bone pin with the slots in the stub axle. When installed everything should look like the top part of fig. 110. NEW SHOCK ASSEMBLY (5) Go ahead and install the parts on the opposite side. FOR BALL BEARING KITS we do not need any extra parts.
- Page 27 and the large nylon spacers. Any part of the mold runner remaining will prevent the parts from snapping in cor- rectly. This will cause leaking around the shock shaft, can cause binding of the shock shaft, and reduce the shocks performance. Use your finger on the edge of the parts to feel for burrs that you cannot see and carefully remove them.
- Page 28 ❏ Figs. 119, 120 & 121 (1)Open bag #7-11 and remove the bottle of 25 weight silicone shock oil (fig. 119). This is the recommended starting shock oil weight for this truck with the recommended pistons. When you run out of the shock oil that we supplied with the kit, the part number for a 2 ounce replacement bottle is #5428.
- Page 29 Fig. 122 Fig. 124 ❏ Fig. 125 Locate the four #6469 black O-rings in the shock assembly parts bag earlier. Install one on each shock body over the threads and seat it flush in the pocket at the bottom of the threads next to the hex portion of the shock body..
- Page 30 gap between the cap and the hex portion of the shock body back to bags #7-9 and #7-10. Inside each bag there is a (see arrow in fig. 128). The O-ring will actually be doing the smaller hardware bag. Remove two #7217 shock rod ends sealing, so we must be careful not to overtighten the cap.
- Page 31 then compress the shock spring and slide one of the #6474 spring cups onto the shaft so that it will slip down over the #7217 black nylon shock rod end. You can then let the spring seat on the spring cup. For the rear shocks adjust your spring clamp so that there is a 3/10"...
- Page 32 ❏ Fig. 137 This photo shows all four shocks installed onto the truck. We have now completed the chassis assem- bly. Fig. 135 ❏ Fig. 136 (1) Take one of the front shocks and slide the shock cap over the upper shock bushing on the front shock strut.
- Page 33 speeds ranging from .06 to .19 sec. for 60° travel. Your choice the servo when mounted. Note: KOpropo servos should be able to use the Airtronics servo horn. If you are using a will be determined by your driving skills as well as your budget because some of the high speed or high torque different brand of servo and none of our servo horns will fit you must then use one of the stock servo horns that came...
- Page 34 equal to the maximum servo length you will only need the two # 69 17 #7336 #7336 plastic servo mounts. The parts layout for a servo 4 -40 x 3 /8 spacer length of 1.40" or less is at the bottom of the fig. 145. The parts layout for a servo length over 1.40"...
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Page 35: Motor Installation
Fig. 149 Fig. 152 MOTOR INSTALLATION ❏ Figs. 153 & 154 BALL BEARING KITS do not come with a motor bag. This means you will need to supply your own motor, matching pinion gear, and capacitors. These can be purchased from most local hobby dealers. There is a chart in the tuning section of the manual that will give you a recommended pinion gear for most motors. - Page 36 STOCK MOTOR MODIFIED MOTOR Fig. 155 Fig. 156 Fig. 153 ❏ Figs. 157 & 158 FOR THE BALL BEARING KITS you will find the #6515 3mm x 6mm gold colored motor mounting screws along with two #6936 #4 aluminum flat washers in a separate small bag inside the kit bag.
- Page 37 Fig. 157 Fig. 160 Fig. 158 Fig. 161 ❏ Figs. 159, 160 & 161 In the Assoc. transmission bag you will find the bag containing the new THROTTLE CONTROL ASSEMBLY #7372 T2 gear dust cover and black insert button. In the AND INSTALLATION same bag you will find two #6288 4-40 x 1/4"...
- Page 38 Fig. 165 Fig. 162 ❏ Figs. 166, 167 & 168 ❏ Figs. 163, 164 & 165 (1) Still working with (1) From the same bag bag #6-13 we will need to remove the #6712 throttle wiper remove the two #8850 black aluminum throttle resistor brack- arm, one #3721 #2 x 1/4"...
- Page 39 Fig. 170 Fig. 167 Fig. 168 Fig. 171 ❏ Figs. 169, 170 & 171 ❏ Figs. 172, 173 & 174 (1) Take out the #6714 We are now ready to yellow nylon throttle bypass mount, one #6925 4-40 x 1/2" fasten the throttle servo to the chassis.
- Page 40 Fig. 174 ❏ Fig. 175, 176 & 177 Now we can begin to connect the wire harness for the throttle resistor and battery pack. (1) In bag #6-13 you will find a small 2 inch piece of red Fig. 176 16 guage wire.
- Page 41 tenna on top of the receiver with a piece of servo tape. Fig. 179 #69 22 4-40 x 1 /2 Fig. 178 ❏ Figs. 179, 180 & 181 We can now install the radio receiver. In the master bag you will find the plastic antenna tube.
- Page 42 To solder a battery pack there are two important things to keep in mind. First, use a good soldering iron with no less than 40 watts of power. It is possible to use a soldering gun, but they are bulky, awkward, and do not apply the heat to the tip as well as a soldering iron.
- Page 43 ANTENNA RECEIVER SERVO 7-CELL PACK MOTOR FRONT BLACK keep RED wires short BLUE ON/OFF Fig. 186 Fig. 189 Fig. 190 Fig. 187 ❏ Figs. 188, 189, 190 & 191 In order to connect matched cells together you will need to use battery braid or battery bars.
- Page 44 Fig. 192 Fig. 195 ❏ Figs. 193 & 194 In bag #7-7 you will find the ❏ Figs. 196 & 197 To secure the battery brace #7326 molded battery brace. If you are running seven cell 8.4 you need to slide one side of the battery brace over one of the volt battery packs this is all you will need to remove.
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Page 45: Wheels And Tires
adjustment. Now go ahead and solder the wires to the motor. ❏ Figs. 198 & 199 Make sure the red wire is soldered to the positive side and the For electronic speed blue wire is soldered to the negative side. WARNING!!: controls we need to finish the wiring between the ESC and Some speed controls use different color wires. - Page 46 wheels we need to drill two holes about 1/8" in size into the wheels we need to drill two holes about 1/8" in size into the middle of the wheels or tire tread so the tire can ventilate. This middle of the wheels or tire tread so the tire can ventilate. This will make the tire’s performance more consistent.
- Page 47 Fig. 206 Fig. 207 Ball bearing kit wheel shown ❏ Figs. 207, 208 & 209 For Ball Bearing kits remove the front tire and wheel bag from the kit box. Take out the two #7842Y fluorescent yellow one piece front wheels, two ##7875 Proline XTR "Edge"...
- Page 48 of spray paints, for Lexan bodies, is Pactra R/C Car Racing Finish, available in most hobby shops. Apply the paint in very thin coats, letting the paint dry BODY PAINTING between coats. WARNING! If the paint is sprayed on in heavy coats, the thinner in the paint stays liquid and attacks the Lexan, then the body becomes brittle and will crack ❏...
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Page 49: Final Adjustments
❑ Step 5 Move the right hand stick or turn the steering wheel to the right. See if the front wheels also turn to the right. If they turn to the left, you will have to move the steering servo reversing switch to the other position. Fol- low your radio system instructions on how to make this change. - Page 50 If you notice any wear, replace the brush You will find your RC10T2 truck will give you many with a new pair. To inspect for a burnt tip, look at the side of more hours of trouble-free operation.
- Page 51 recommended method is to connect the motor to an old up to get it away from the chassis. Also move it away from the battery pack and, while the motor is running, spray a motor side of the chassis. cleaner directly on the brush commutator area. Run the motor Try moving the receiver up to the shock tower and for approximately 15 seconds and apply the spray several mount the antenna on the rear bulkhead or shock tower.
-
Page 52: Tuning Tips
Fig. 216 positive camber negative camber Associated makes positive caster blocks in increments of 5° starting at 5° and going through 30°. Your RC10T2 truck comes with 30° caster, front carrier blocks, which is what we page 55 page 55... - Page 53 REAR TOE-IN. Rear toe-in affects steering and rear traction. Decreasing rear toe-in increases steering, but decreases rear traction. Your new RC10T2 comes with 3° toe-in (per side) rear suspension mounts and 0° toe-in rear hub carriers. To FRONT...
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Page 54: Battery Charging
capacity of between 1.2-1.8 amperes for one hour, or 2.4 and factors such as your track's length, traction and amperes for 1/2 hour, etc. This charge capacity is the same composition; tight or open track; and your truck's rear tire regardless of the number of cells in the pack because the diameter. - Page 55 SAVE THIS BOOKLET! MORE THAN AN INSTRUCTION MANUAL, IT'S ALSO A HANDY, PIC- TORIAL SUPPLEMENT TO TEAM ASSOCIATED'S RC10T2 CATALOG. REFER TO THIS MANUAL FOR PART NUMBER AND NAME WHEN ORDERING. page 58...
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