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Skyshark Ilyushin IL-2 Sturmovik Manual

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The Ilyushin IL-2 Sturmovik (Cyrillic Илью́ ш ин Ил-2) was re-
garded as the best ground-attack aircraft in the Second
World War. Produced by the Soviet Union in very large num-
bers, it was the single most produced military aircraft design
in all of aviation history. Over 42,000 aircraft were produced
in various models. It was a prominent aircraft for tank killing
with its accuracy in dive bombing and guns that were able to
penetrate tanks' thin top armor.
To IL-2 pilots, the aircraft was simply the diminutive "Ilyusha".
To the soldiers on the ground, it was the "Hunchback", the
"Flying Tank" or the "Flying Infantryman". It's postwar NATO
reporting name was "Bark". The IL-2 aircraft played a crucial
role on the Eastern Front.
The IL-2 is a single-engine, propeller-driven, low-wing mono-
plane of mixed construction with a crew of two (some version
were single seat), specially designed for assault operations.
Its most notable feature was the inclusion of armor in an air-
frame load-bearing scheme. Armor plates replaced the frame
and paneling throughout the nacelle and middle part of the
fuselage, and an armored hull made of riveted armor steel
secured the aircraft's engine, cockpit, water and oil radiators,
and fuel tanks.
Production early in the war was slow because after the Ger-
man invasion, the aircraft factories near Moscow and other
major cities in western Russia had to be moved east of the
Ural Mountains. Ilyushin and his engineers had time to re-
consider production methods, and two months after the
move IL-2s were again being produced.
Heavy losses to enemy fighters forced the reintroduction of a
rear gunner; early IL-2s were field modified by cutting a hole
in the fuselage behind the cockpit for a gunner sitting on a
canvas sling armed with a 12.7 mm UBT machine gun in an
improvised mounting. The semi-turret gun mount allowed the
machine gun to be fired at angles of up to 35°. These
changes added weight and made the 2 seat version of the
IL-2 slower and more difficult to handle than the single seat
version.
The final production version of the IL-2 used a 1,254 kW
(1,680 hp) Mikulin AM-38 engine. Armament consisted of
RS-82 and RS-132 rockets which could destroy armored ve-
hicles with a single hit. They were so inaccurate that experi-
enced Il-2 pilots mainly utilized the 23mm cannon. Another
potent weapon of the Il-2s was the PTAB shaped charge
bomblets. Up to 192 were carried in four external dispensers
(cluster bombs) or up to 220 in the internal weapon bays.
Skyshark R/
260 London Bridge Road
Lake Havasu City, Arizona 86403
(928) 854-6100
Website: www.skysharkrc.com
Email: cservice@skysharkrc.com
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Summary of Contents for Skyshark Ilyushin IL-2 Sturmovik

  • Page 1 The Ilyushin IL-2 Sturmovik (Cyrillic Илью́ ш ин Ил-2) was re- improvised mounting. The semi-turret gun mount allowed the garded as the best ground-attack aircraft in the Second machine gun to be fired at angles of up to 35°. These World War.
  • Page 2: Center Of Gravity

    Thank you for purchasing the Sturmovik IL-2 from Skyshark There are many different options when it comes to electric mo- R/C. For the first time, R/C enthusiasts have a choice in scale tors. We used our Lightning 75 outrunner with a 6 cell aircraft designs.
  • Page 3 Vacu-formed Exhaust stacks (2) General Building Information Tail gear wire Full color plan set The Sturmovik can be built by a person with average building skills. Certain steps in the building process must be followed Fiberglass cowl Instruction manual as depicted, or you might find yourself digging back into the F50 firewall (glow only) structure to redo something.
  • Page 4 Ailerons: Elevators: Assembly of the Ailerons, Elevators and Rudder can be done with thin CA for clean, lightweight construction. Slide A3 - A11 into the slots in A1. Glue in place with thin CA. Glue A2 to the end of A1 (make sure it is square). Glue A12 to the opposite end of A1 insuring it is square.
  • Page 5 Align and E13 to E12 as shown. Bevel the end of E13 so it fits flush with E12. Glue to E12 and the elevator assembly. Align & glue R2 to R1 as shown. Align R3 - R9 to the slots in R1 and glue in place. Insure that R3 is perfectly straight.
  • Page 6 Insert S11 into the slots in the front of S3-S8. Note the direc- Align and glue R11 to R1, R3, R4 & R5 tion of S11. It should butt up to S2. Horizontal Stab: Insert S10 into the slots in the front of S1's & S2's. Repeat for the other half.
  • Page 7 Align and glue S14 to the outside of S1 as shown. Repeat for the other S14 Option: If you are going to use hinges other than CA, now is the time to add hinge reinforcement blocks to the stab. Cut four 21" pieces from two 1/16” x 4” x 48” balsa sheets Edge glue two 21"...
  • Page 8: Right Wing Panel

    Right Wing Panel: Glue two S13's together to create a 1/2" thick piece. Repeat for the other two. Glue a W2A to each side of W2 as shown. You will make two W2 ribs total. Glue W2B to each W2A. This will create a pocket for the wing dowel.
  • Page 9 Align the other piece of 1/4” x 1/4” balsa to the plans and mark it's location on W20. The 1/4” spar should butt up against the spar that is already mounted on W19. Remove W20 and the balsa spar. Glue the spar to the bot- Install servos in both W9 and W13 tom of W20 as shown.
  • Page 10 Glue W28 in place in the slot in front of W6 thru W9 Fit W21 into the slots in W3 thru W12 Align and glue W13 - W18 to the bottom spar. Make sure the Pin W2 & W3 securely to the board. Align & glue W26 & spar is fully seated in the rib slot.
  • Page 11 Add a piece of scrap 1/16" balsa to each side to make it 1- 1/8" tall. Bevel on one end to match the angle of the leading edge piece on the right wing half. Center the piece to ribs W1-W3 and glue in place. Sand W22 to match the camber of ribs W12 thru W18.
  • Page 12 Lay the 1/8" Ply flap and W25 in place on the wing as shown. Draw a line at the edge of these pieces on the top sheet. Measure .55" from W26 and draw a line as shown. Assemble W30 to the W31's as shown. fit the assembly onto the W19 spar and W9 rib.
  • Page 13 AIR RETRACTS** Run the air lines at this time from the re- tract location to the retract servo location on the wing. ELECTRIC RETRACTS** Run retract extensions though the holes in W1- W6 and tape in place to keep them from mov- ing.
  • Page 14 Align the W20 assembly to the building board again and ad- just for a good fit in W19. ** AIR RETRACTS: Slide W23 servo tray in the slots in W1 & W2. Align with the plans and glue in place. **AIR RETRACTS: Insert the air tank into the holes in the front of W3-W5 at this time.
  • Page 15 tract mount. Cut a piece of 1/4” x 1/4” x 36” to 10". Insert into ribs W2 thru Cut a 2-3/8" piece of 3/8" x 1" x 36" balsa stock. Add a piece of scrap 1/16" balsa to each side to make it 1- Glue all spars and ribs from W1 to W8 in place.
  • Page 16 Use your sheeing you made before to sheet the top of the wing as shown. Add reinforcements for hinges along the flap and aileron area. Sand W22 to match the camber of ribs W12 thru W18. Lightly sand the ribs to get rid of any high spots and prepare for sheeting.
  • Page 17 Mark the location of the wing dowel in the leading edge as shown. Measure .55" from W26 and draw a line as shown. Cut the top sheeting along the line that you drew in the previ- ous steps. Trim the rest of the sheeting as shown. Sheet the bottom of the wing.
  • Page 18 Shape the leading edge of the wing to a round shape. Fit the aileron into place and align and mark the location of each wingtip. Finish sanding the sheeting even with W22, W18 and W1 Drill two 1/4" holes at the marked location on the leading edge of the wing.
  • Page 19 Pin the F22 assembly in place over the plans and glue F1A as shown. (Electric version: Glue F1AE in place of F1A) Fit the flap into place along with W25. Remove the flap and glue W25 in place. FUSELAGE: Now is the time to decide whether you will be powering your plane with glow or electric power.
  • Page 20 Align F9A so the rivet details face rearward and glue in place Cut and fit a piece of 1/4" x 1/4" balsa from F12A thru F18A. Glue in place. Align and glue F10A thru F18A. Note: there is no F11A! Fit and glue a piece of 1/4"...
  • Page 21 Glue two pieces of 1/4" x 1/8" balsa in the final slots on F12A thru F18A. Cut 2 pieces of 1/4" x 1/8" balsa to fit between F1A and F10A in the second slot. Glue a piece in place on each side. Do not glue to the removable center section in F7A &...
  • Page 22 Trim all stringers even with F18. **Electric Only** Glue 1/16" scrap balsa sheeting to a 1/16" x 4" x 36" balsa sheet as shown to create sheeting. Sand the edges of the F24 pieces as shown. This will make it easier for sheeting.
  • Page 23 Trim and sand the sheeting as shown. **Electric version** Align and glue the sheeting to the fuselage crutch. Wet down sheeting with ammonia/water mixture and continue to sheet the fuselage working both sides evenly.Trim the sheeting around the cockpit area making sure to keep about 2" of sheeting aft of F4A.
  • Page 24 Align and glue F1B to F1A, F2B to F2A, F3B to F3A, F4B to F4A and F5B to F5A. Make sure the holes in F5A match the Carefully Slide F6B into the first slots in C1. Glue in place as pushrod locations on the plans (the printed number should shown to the cockpit floor and the edges of F6A.
  • Page 25 Fit F23 to the slots in F3B thru F11. The front of F23 should glue to F2B and the top rear should be even with the top of Attached the horizontal stab assembly to the fuselage by in- F11. You may need to adjust some of the notches in the for- terlocking the tabs in the stab supports with the tabs in F17A mers so the saddle fits without forcing it.
  • Page 26 Measure and mark the center of the horizonal stab on the Mark a line around the block and cut away the sheeting on trailing edge. the horizonal stab. Be sure to only cut the bottom sheeting. Measure the thickness of your tailwheel control arm. Subtract Align the centerline on F21 to the mark you made in the h that number from 1.3 inches and that will tell you how long to stab and glue F21 in place even with the trailing edge of the...
  • Page 27 Drill a 3/32" hole down though the tail block and into the top Slide F19 between the 1/4" spar and the h. stab until it fits sheeting. tightly. Glue in place. Do the same with F20. Make sure the rudder holes are aligned with the hole marked “R” in F18. Cut a 1-1/2"...
  • Page 28 shown. If it extends out past F21, you can sand it later. Repeat for the other side. Fit and glue a piece of 1/4" x 1/8" balsa in the bottom slots of F1B thru F3B. Glue this piece to F23 also. Repeat for the other side.
  • Page 29 Fit and glue SS1 in place between F11 and F21 Cut a hole in the center of F21 as shown to allow the steer- ing arm to align with the tail wire. Insert the steering arm between the stringers and insert the tail gear through the hole in the stringer, steering arm and tail block.
  • Page 30 Vertical Stab: Fit the F35 wing hold down plate into the slots in F23 and epoxy in place. Use some balsa tri-stock to reinforce as shown. Sand the sides of the fuselage around the wing saddle and make sure the F23 wing saddle is flush with all the formers. Align and glue V1 to V2 Cut a piece a 1/16"...
  • Page 31 Glue V7 in place on the top of the stab assembly. Lightly sand the leading and trailing edges of the stab as- sembly until all ribs are flush. Sand the trailing and leading edge to match the contour of the ribs. Align V8 to the trailing edge of the stab assembly and glue in place.
  • Page 32 Fit V11 to F18A so there is 1/16" edge for the sheeting to butt Sand the edges until they are flush with the stab assembly. against. You may need to sand the bottom of V11. Align the stab assembly to the fuse by fitting the tab into the Measure and cut a piece of 1/4"...
  • Page 33 Battery Hatch ***ELECTRIC ONLY*** Repeat for the other side. Sand the sheeting flush with the V stab. Cut two 1/4" x 3/8" to 5" and pin to plans Glue the two V8As together as shown. Glue F2C thru F5C to the spars using thick CA. NOTE: F2C and F5C must be perfectly straight.
  • Page 34 Glue the hatch tabs in place. Align the scribed line on each tab with the bottom of the hatch. Cut four 1/8" x 1/4" balsa stringers to 5" and glue to the other slots in F2C - F5C Remove from the board and sand the spars on the sides and ends so they are even with the formers.
  • Page 35: Wing Mounting

    Wing Mounting: Fit the wing into the wing saddle and sand as necessary for a good fit. Cut two pieces of 1/4" hardwood down to 2-1/2" and taper Measure a line from the wingtips to the tail and center the one end of each.
  • Page 36 Mark a line 5/8" back from F31 centered on the wing. Glue Remove the wing and use a tap to create the proper thread F32 along that line. Make sure it is parallel to the wing and through the wing holddown plate. Harden the threads with centered on the wing using the scribed line as a guide.
  • Page 37 Glue F37 to the F36's inline with the angle and flush with the Glue the F40 assembly to the ends of F36 as shown. front as shown. Set this piece aside until you finish covering the wing. WING FILLETS: Fill in the seams of the strip sheeting with balsa filler and sand to a smooth rounded shape.
  • Page 38 Glue WF1 thru WF5 to the fillet base and fuselage along the scribed lines Align the right wing fillet base to the right wing and fuselage as shown. Glue in place to match on contour of the wing. Align WF7 with the trailing edge of the wing and the tip of the fillet base.
  • Page 39 Wet WF6 with ammonia/water and fit to the fillet base/fuse- lage. Align it with WF7 and the fillet base. Glue in place then trim as needed to match WF7. Remove the wing, sand the fillet to shape and blend into the fuselage.
  • Page 40 Sand the tailcone to a smooth taper. Use balsa filler as needed for a smooth finish. Be careful not to sand too much off the base or it will not align properly with the fuselage. Slide the tailcone pieces on the 1/4" dowel in numerical order starting with 1 and ending with 21 glue each piece to the pre- Cut the 1/4"...
  • Page 41 Cockpit: The cockpit should be installed after your plane is painted and/or covered. You can paint the pieces before they are in- stalled or after if you are careful. Note: many of the photos show the cockpit assembled outside the airplane for clarity. Cut the gauge paper to the approximate size of the C8 as- sembly.
  • Page 42 Glue C36 to C4 on the marked location. Glue C37 to C36 with the inscribed lines facing up. Align & glue C38 to C37 as Glue C13 to the inside of C16 as shown shown. Glue C34 to C4 on the scribed location. Glue C35 to C34 as shown.
  • Page 43 Install C2 & C4 inside the front of the fuselage between form- ers F5A & F8A Glue C14 to the front of C13 (between the C16 seat sides) Sand the corners off the bottom of the seat and use balsa putty to cover any seams and round the inside of the seat.
  • Page 44 Cut halfway though C19 on the scribed line in order to allow the piece to bend at the angle scribed in C2. Note: This piece should be already painted with the gauge paper attached. Insert the other half of C11 in the holes in F8A and F9A as shown.
  • Page 45 Glue this assembly to the scribed lines on C19. Align and glue the C12 seat mounts to the cockpit floor and F8A on the scribed lines. Sand a groove in the bottom of C9 that will fit the 3/16 control rod as shown.
  • Page 46 Align & glue C23 & C24 on C21 & C22 as shown. You may need to wet these pieces with water or ammonia in order to get them to conform to the curve. If you already haven’t done so, paint cockpit and F25,F26 as shown.
  • Page 47 Glue C25 to F9A. Glue C26 to C25 at an angle so the top of C26 is even with the top of C27. Cut five 1” pieces from the enclosed 3/8” x 3/4” maple stick and epoxy them to the firewall so there is a 1/32” gap be- tween the block and the sheeting edge.
  • Page 48 Align and epoxy F25, F26, F27, F28 and F50 together in the shape of a box as shown. Note the location that is printed on each piece. **Electric Version:** All pieces will be marked with an “E”. Epoxy F50AE to A50BE making sure the alignment marks on F50AE are facing outward and the top is facing the correct direction.
  • Page 49 Cut the plastic gear pods and glue them together as shown Measure the location of the wheel hole from the plans and using CA or plastic glue. Note: The right side pods will be cut the sheeting away in that location. marked with an “R”.
  • Page 50 control surfaces to a 45 degree angle on both sides and Use some scrap ply to secure it in place. connect the fuel check to insure there is plenty of travel. tubing to your engine/muffler. You can wait to hinge all the surfaces until after you finish covering the plane.
  • Page 51 Glue the radiator assembly to the bottom of the wing as shown. **Electric Version:** Mark the location of the hatch magnets on the rails of the Attach the canopy using canopy glue or #2 wood screws. fuselage and battery hatch. Drill a 1/4” hole in each location deep enough so the magnet sits flush.