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Names of Parts .............................................................. 2
Standard Accessories .................................................... 3
Accessory storage .......................................................... 3
Extension Table ............................................................. 4
Free-arm sewing ............................................................ 4
Connecting the Power Supply ....................................... 5
Controlling the Sewing Speed ....................................... 5
Reverse Stitch Lever ..................................................... 6
Foot Pressure Dial ......................................................... 6
Dropping the Feed Dog ................................................. 6
Raising and Lowering the Presser Foot ........................ 7
Changing the Presser Foot ............................................ 7
Changing Needles ......................................................... 8
Needle and Thread Chart ............................................... 8
Winding the Bobbin ........................................................ 9
Setting the spool ............................................................ 9
Removing the bobbin ..................................................... 9
Winding the bobbin ...................................................... 10
Inserting the bobbin ..................................................... 11
Threading the Machine ................................................ 12
Drawing up the Bobbin Thread .................................... 13
Selecting the Stitch Pattern ......................................... 14
Pattern selector dial ..................................................... 14
Stitch Length Dial ......................................................... 14
Adjusting stretch stitch balance ................................... 15
Stitch Width Dial .......................................................... 15
Variable needle position .............................................. 15
Balancing Needle Thread Tension .............................. 16
Straight Stitch Sewing .................................................. 17
Changing the sewing direction .................................... 17
Finishing sewing .......................................................... 17
Seam guides on the needle plate ................................ 18
Turning a square corner .............................................. 18

TABLE OF CONTENTS

Basic Zigzag ................................................................ 19
Overcasting .................................................................. 19
Knit Stitch ..................................................................... 20
Tricot Stitch (Multiple Zigzag Stitch) ............................ 20
Straight Stretch Stitch .................................................. 21
Zigzag Stretch Stitch .................................................... 21
Button Sewing .............................................................. 22
4-Step Buttonhole ........................................................ 23
To adjust buttonhole stitch density .................................. 23
Corded Buttonhole ....................................................... 24
Zipper Application ........................................................ 25
Blind Hemming ............................................................. 28
Decorative Satin Stitches............................................. 29
Decorative Stretch Stitches ......................................... 29
Smocking ..................................................................... 30
Pin Tucking .................................................................. 31
Shell Tucking ............................................................... 31
Fagoting ....................................................................... 32
Patchwork .................................................................... 32
Cleaning the Hook Race and Feed Dogs .................... 33
Replacing the Bobbin Holder ....................................... 34
Replacing the Light Bulb .............................................. 34
Troubleshooting ............................................................ 35
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Summary of Contents for Janome Sewing Machine

  • Page 1: Table Of Contents

    TABLE OF CONTENTS SECTION 1. KNOW YOUR MACHINE SECTION 4. UTILITY STITCHES Names of Parts .............. 2 Basic Zigzag ..............19 Standard Accessories ............ 3 Overcasting ..............19 Accessory storage ............3 Knit Stitch ..............20 Extension Table ............. 4 Tricot Stitch (Multiple Zigzag Stitch) ......
  • Page 2: Section 1. Know Your Machine

    SECTION 1. KNOW YOUR MACHINE Names of Parts q Bobbin winder stopper w Bobbin winder spindle e Hole for additional spool pin r Spool holder t Spool pin y Bobbin winder thread guide u Thread take-up lever i Foot pressure dial o Face plate !0 Thread cutter !1 Needle plate...
  • Page 3: Standard Accessories

    Standard Accessories q Zipper foot E w Blind hemming foot G e Buttonhole foot B r Sliding buttonhole foot J t Needles y Bobbins u Screwdriver i Lint brush o Seam ripper (buttonhole opener) !0 Spool holder (large) !1 Spool holder (small) !2 Additional spool pin !3 Felt cushion Accessory storage...
  • Page 4: Extension Table

    Extension Table To detach: Pull the extension table to the left. To attach: Insert the pin into the hole and push the extension table to snap it in place. q Pin w Hole Free-arm sewing Free-arm sewing is used for stitching sleeves, waistbands, pant legs or any other tubular garments.
  • Page 5: Section 2. Getting Ready To Sew

    If it does not fit fully in the outlet, reverse the plug. If it still does not fit, contact a qualified electrician to install the proper outlet. Do not modify the plug in any way. The foot controller Model YC-482J or TJC-150 is used with the sewing machine Model 521 (USA market only).
  • Page 6: Reverse Stitch Lever

    Reverse Stitch Lever Push the reverse stitch lever down to sew in reverse. The machine will sew in reverse while the lever is pushed. Foot Pressure Dial Turn the foot pressure dial to adjust the foot pressure. The foot pressure dial should be set at “3” for regular sewing.
  • Page 7: Raising And Lowering The Presser Foot

    Raising and Lowering the Presser Foot The presser foot lifter raises and lowers the presser foot. You can raise the foot about 1/4" (0.6 cm) higher than the normal up position for easy removal of the presser foot, or to help you place heavy fabric under the foot. q Lowered position w Normal up position e Extra up position...
  • Page 8: Changing Needles

    Changing Needles CAUTION: Always make sure to turn the power switch off and disconnect the machine from power supply before changing the needle. Raise the needle by turning the handwheel and lower the presser foot. Turn off the power switch. z Loosen the needle clamp screw by turning it counterclockwise.
  • Page 9: Winding The Bobbin

    Winding the Bobbin Setting the spool Place a spool of thread on the spool pin with the thread coming off the spool as illustrated. A: Press the large spool holder firmly against the spool of thread. q Large spool holder B: For a small spool, use the small spool holder.
  • Page 10: Winding The Bobbin

    Winding the bobbin z Pull out the handwheel to disengage the clutch. q Handwheel x Draw the thread from the spool. Guide the thread around the bobbin winder thread guide. w Bobbin winder thread guide c Thread through the hole in the bobbin from the inside to the outside.
  • Page 11: Inserting The Bobbin

    Inserting the bobbin z Place the bobbin in the bobbin holder with the thread running off as illustrated. q Thread x Guide the thread into the front notch on the front side of the bobbin holder. Draw the thread to the left, sliding it between the tension spring blades.
  • Page 12: Threading The Machine

    Threading the Machine To set the needle thread: Raise the thread take-up lever to the higest position by turning the handwheel. Raise the presser foot. z Draw the thread from the spool and pass it under the thread guide. Then draw it down along the right channel.
  • Page 13: Drawing Up The Bobbin Thread

    Drawing up the Bobbin Thread z Raise the presser foot and hold the needle thread lightly with your left hand. q Needle thread x Turn the handwheel slowly toward you one complete turn. Bring the bobbin thread up by pulling the needle thread as illustrated.
  • Page 14: Selecting The Stitch Pattern

    Selecting the Stitch Pattern Raise the needle to its highest position. Pattern selector dial Turn the pattern selector dial to set the symbol of the desired stitch pattern at the setting mark. q Pattern selector dial w Setting mark CAUTION: Do not turn the pattern selector dial while the needle is in the fabric, otherwise the needle may bend or break.
  • Page 15: Adjusting Stretch Stitch Balance

    Adjusting stretch stitch balance If the stretch stitch patterns are uneven when you sew on a particular fabric, correct them by turning the stitch length dial. If the patterns are drawn out, correct them by setting the “–” “+” dial to the “–” side. If the patterns are compressed, correct them by setting the dial to the “+”...
  • Page 16: Balancing Needle Thread Tension

    Balancing Needle Thread Tension The thread tension should be adjusted depending on the sewing materials, layers of fabric and sewing method. To adjust the thread tension, turn the tension dial. q Tension dial Balanced tension: The ideal straight stitch has threads locked between two layers of fabric, as illustrated.
  • Page 17: Section 3. Basic Sewing

    SECTION 3. BASIC SEWING Straight Stitch Sewing Machine setting: q Stitch pattern: A w Stitch width: 0 or 5 e Stitch length: 1.5 – 4 r Thread tension: 2 – 6 t Presser foot: Zigzag foot A Starting to sew Raise the presser foot and place the fabric under the foot.
  • Page 18: Seam Guides On The Needle Plate

    Seam guides on the needle plate The seam guides on the needle plate help you to measure seam allowance. The numbers indicate the distance between the center needle position and the seam guide. q Seam guides Number 20 4/8 5/8 6/8 Spacing (cm) 1.5 2.0 1.3 1.6 1.9 Spacing (inch)
  • Page 19: Section 4. Utility Stitches Basic Zigzag

    SECTION 4. UTILITY STITCHES Basic Zigzag Machine setting q Stitch pattern: C w Stitch width: 1 – 5 e Stitch length: 0.5 – 3 r Thread tension: 2 – 5 t Presser foot: Zigzag foot A Simple zigzag stitching is widely used for overcasting, sewing on buttons etc.
  • Page 20: Knit Stitch

    Knit Stitch Machine setting q Stitch pattern: G w Stitch width: e Stitch length: S.S. r Thread tension: 3 – 7 t Presser foot: Zigzag foot A This stitch is ideal for 1/4” (0.6 cm) seams on knits or on medium to heavy weight woven fabrics where you want a narrow seam.
  • Page 21: Straight Stretch Stitch

    Straight Stretch Stitch Machine setting q Stitch pattern: A w Stitch width: 0 or 5 e Stitch length: S.S. r Thread tension: 2 – 5 t Presser foot: Zigzag foot A The pattern is sewn with two stitches forward and one stitch backward, forming a seam that does not rip easily.
  • Page 22: Button Sewing

    Button Sewing Machine setting q Stitch pattern: C w Stitch width: Adjust as necessary e Stitch length: r Thread tension: 3 – 7 t Presser foot: Buttonhole foot B y Feed dog: Lowered Unthread the needle. Adjust the stitch width to match it with the span of the holes in the button.
  • Page 23: 4-Step Buttonhole

    4-Step Buttonhole Machine setting q Stitch pattern: w Stitch width: 4 – 5 e Stitch length: 0.5 – 1 r Thread tension: 1 – 5 t Presser foot: Sliding buttonhole J or Buttonhole foot B z Set the pattern selector dial at “ ”.
  • Page 24: Corded Buttonhole

    Corded Buttonhole Machine setting q Stitch pattern: w Stitch width: 4 – 5 e Stitch length: 0.5 – 1 r Thread tension: 1 – 5 t Presser foot: Sliding buttonhole J or Buttonhole foot B z With the buttonhole foot raised, hook the filler cord on the spur at the back of the foot.
  • Page 25: Zipper Application

    Zipper Application Machine setting q Stitch pattern: A w Stitch width: e Stitch length: 1.5 – 4 r Thread tension: 3 – 6 t Presser foot: Zipper foot E Attaching the zipper foot A: To sew the left side of the zipper, attach zipper foot with the right side pin.
  • Page 26 To sew z Attach zipper foot with the right side pin. Fold back the upper layer seam allowance. Fold back the lower layer seam allowance to leave a 1/8" (0.4 cm) margin of fabric. q Lower layer w End of the opening e Zipper teeth r 1/8”...
  • Page 27 b Raise and release the foot, and re-attach it with the left side pin. Starting just below zipper bottom stop, sew across fabric to about 3/8" (1 cm) distance from the basting line. Turn fabric 90 degrees and sew a seam the entire length of the zipper tape.
  • Page 28: Blind Hemming

    Blind Hemming Machine setting q Stitch pattern: E or F w Stitch width: 2 – 3 e Stitch length: 2 – 3 r Thread tension:1 – 4 t Presser foot: Blind hemming foot G z On heavy weight fabrics that ravel, the raw edge should be overcast first.
  • Page 29: Section 5. Decorative Stitches

    SECTION 5. DECORATIVE STITCHES Decorative Satin Stitch Machine setting q Stitch pattern: J w Stitch width: 3 – 5 e Stitch length: 0.5 – 1 r Thread tension:1 – 4 t Presser foot: Zigzag foot A or Buttonhole foot B Determine the appropriate stitch density by test sewing.
  • Page 30: Smocking

    Smocking Machine setting q Stitch pattern: D w Stitch width: 3 – 5 e Stitch length: S.S. r Thread tension:1 – 4 t Presser foot: Zigzag foot A Step 1: Choose a soft and lightweight fabric such as batiste, gingham or challis. Cut the fabric three times wider than the project width.
  • Page 31: Pin Tucking

    Pin Tucking Machine setting q Stitch pattern: A w Stitch width: 0 or 5 e Stitch length: 1.5 – 3 r Thread tension:2 – 6 t Presser foot: Blind hemming foot G Fold a fabric wrong side together and Lower the needle into the fabric 0.1 –...
  • Page 32: Fagoting

    Fagoting Machine setting q Stitch pattern: H w Stitch width: 3 – 5 e Stitch length: 1 – 3 r Thread tension:1 – 4 t Presser foot: Zigzag foot A Use this stitch to join two pieces of fabric to create an open work appearance, and add design interest.
  • Page 33: Section 6. Care And Maintenance

    SECTION 6. CARE AND MAINTENANCE WARNING: Turn the power switch off and unplug the machine before cleaning. NOTE: Do not dismantle the machine in any way other than what is explained in this section. Clean the outside of the machine with a soft cloth and mild soap.
  • Page 34: Replacing The Bobbin Holder

    Replacing the Bobbin Holder z Insert the bobbin holder into the hook race. x Make sure the knob of the bobbin holder fits next to the stopper on the race. q Knob w Stopper c Replace the bobbin. Attach the needle plate, inserting the two guide pins into the holes in the needle plate.
  • Page 35: Troubleshooting

    Troubleshooting Cause Reference Condition 1. The needle thread is not threaded properly. Page 12 The needle thread 2. The needle thread tension is too tight. Page 16 breaks. 3. The needle is bent or blunt. Page 8 4. The needle is incorrectly inserted. Page 8 5.

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521

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