Draw a line around the in-
side so you can put it back
in that same spot. Also
draw a line a to form a lip a
bit wider than you want.
This is to allow you to cut
out the majority of the cen-
ter with a jig saw or "recip"
saw before you do any of
the routing. As you can see
from the photo below, it
doesn't need to be a careful
or even straight cut. All you
are doing is removing the
bulk of the material to re-
duce the amount of work
the router bit has to do
when you next rout the
actual inside edges of the
work piece.
Put the template back
aligned with the pencil line
you drew a moment ago.
Mount a guide bushing
and straight cut bit sized
to produce the width of lip
you want. Remember
how the guide bushing will
ride on the inside edge of
the template and hold the
Use a guide bushing and
straight bit to cleanly trim the
rough inside edges of the cut
34
Draw lines to mark the inset loca-
tion and a rough line a bit wider
than the lip you want
Cut out the center with a jig
saw or "recip" saw
inside edge of the bit away
from the template by half
the diameter of the guide
bushing less half the di-
ameter of the bit.
For this router plate, a
really beat up unit that has
been in use daily for sev-
eral years, the lip needs to
be about 1/2". A 40mm
guide ring snapped into
the Festool 1400 router
shown in the lower picture
and 10mm router bit will
produce a 15mm lip, a bit
wider than 1/2" but cer-
tainly close enough to 1/2"
to work well.
I placed scrap pieces of
plywood under the work
piece to hold it off of the
surface of the multi-
function table so as not to
scar it up. Set the depth
of cut to just clear the bot-
tom of the work piece.
Follow the template with
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