Festool MFS Fence System Instruction Manual page 27

to cut off a longer piece than that will al-
low, I attach another MFS profile to the
end of this one using two of the profile
joining "V" nuts. The second profile zero
mark will set against the 1000mm mark
so it is easy to set precise measurements
beyond one meter.
To make the back edge stops I used the
same 19mm scrap UHMW and plowed a
shallow dado in the side a fraction over
16mm wide. This will allow the back
Back edge of work piece
edge stop to register cleanly along the
edge of the MFS profile with a clearly
readable shoulder to align with the de-
sired measurement mark.
I find 40mm high about right with the
16mm dado set down about 4mm from
the top edge. That allows the lower edge
of the stop to fall below the top edge of
the work piece so I can get a nice clean
hook action to catch the back edge of the
work piece as shown above.
Those back edge stops are secured to
the MFS side "V" track with 5mm ma-
27
chine screws threaded into the two hole
"V" nuts.
As we discussed above, in use, set both
stops to the desired length of cut, place
the saddles on the guide rail, and move
the guide rail and story sticks until the
stops fall over the back edge of the work
piece -- slick, fast, highly accurate and
very repeatable.
You will find that in use both of these
methods of positioning the
guide rail relative to the
work piece (the MFS rec-
tangle and these story
sticks) will allow you to
reach a level of accuracy
and repeatability that is
most likely far beyond
what you have been able
to achieve using the
measure, mark, and align
technique.
While the MFS rectangle as
a vernier scale does require
the guide rail to be mounted
on a Multi-Function Table,
the story sticks do not. Ei-
ther way both of these tech-
niques employing the accuracy of the
Festool MFS extruded profiles offer a fast
way to make one cut or dozens that are
all the same.
It also doesn't matter whether you are
making rip cuts or cross cuts or whether
the cut off pieces are narrow or wide,
both techniques work equally as well.
Best of all, since you always calibrate off
of your saw, your blade, and your guide
rail, you don't have to worry about how
straight or square your table is or whether
things "change" on you from one work
session to the next.