Horizontal Welding; Overhead Welding - Craftsman 113.201392 Owner's Manual

Figure 12
i il
Figure 14
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OVER-LAPPED BACK-UP STRIP
Figure 13 Figure 15
HOLD A LOHSARC
UP SIROKE
Figure 16 Figure 17
HORIZONTAL WELD|NG
Horizontal welding refers to one type of butt weld between
two plates in a vertical plane. For practice, set up a plate
as for vertical welding and run straight beads across from
left to right (fig. 12). Use tFe same current settings as for
vertical-down welding and hold the rod as indicated with
a short arc. Move the rod in a straight llne and deposit
a light bead. The rate of travel will depend upon the current
used. Too slow a travel will cause the bead to sag (fig. 13).
Practice with 3/32, 1/8 and 5/32-inch rods until a well
formed bead can be made with each size rod (fig. 14).
Sheet metaJ up to 1/16-inch thick can be butt welded from
one side. If the seam has numerous gaps, use a back-up
strip, allowing a slight gap between edges of 1/8-inch
thick metal and weld from both sides (fig. 15). All metal
3/16-1nch thick and over should be beveled and welded
with a number of passes (fig. t6). Thoroughly clean each
bead before laying the next and use higher current than
for single-pass welding.
The appearance of a multiple-pass horizontal weld can be
improved by vertical down beads lald closely together.
Use a swift circular motion to the right; slowly downward
while welding (fig. 17).
OVERHEAD WELDING
Although overhead welding is generally considered diffi-
eu]t, do not become discouraged, as it is being done every
day by people who have taught themselves. Once the art
of maintaining a short arc has been mastered, the rest
will be easy.
Since there will be a shower of sparks, wear a leather
jacket and keep the practice plate slightly higher than the
top of your head when standing. To keep sparks out of your
gJove, grasp the electrode ho]der as indicated in figure 18
and ho]d the rod in a nearly vertical position with a slight
tilt to the right+ Drape the cable over your shoulder so its
weight will not interfere with the use of the electrode. Use
1/8-inch rods and a current setting the same as for vertical
welding, and move the rod in a straight line without any
weaving or whipping motions. A reasonably fast rate of
travel must be used to prevent the bead from sagging and
undercutting along the edges. Vary the rate of travel and
notice its effect on the size and appearance of the weld.
When you feel you can run a satisfactory bead, try the
slde-to-side weaving motion and deposit a thin weld ap-
proximately 3/4-inch wide. Themovement must be somewhat
faster than for other positions to keep the bead from
sagging. (This method of weaving is used on]y for the
last pass on heavy welds where improved appearance is
necessary.)
The whipping motion is used where a gap exists between
the plates as it provides better penetration with higher
welding current. For practice work, set up two plates ap-
proximately 1/8-inch thick, allowing a gap between them.
Burn in deep for good penetration with 1/8 and 5/32-1nch
rods, varying the plate size and gap distances.
F;gure 18
Figure 19
Fillet welds for lap or tee-joints are most common in the
overhead position. Tack+weld two pieces of scrap iron
together to form a tee+iolnt, and clamp in the overhead
position so one plate is held vertically (fig. 19). HoLd the
rod at angles indicated and deposit a light bead from left
to right without weaving or whipping movements. A slightly
higher current than used for overhead butt we_ds will be
necessary to get good penetration at the root of the weld.
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