Craftsman 113.201392 Owner's Manual page 20

VERTICAI..UP
WELDING
90°
Figure 6
Figure 7
Figure 8
r_
F;gure TO
Use 1/8 and 5/32-inch rods for all verticabup welds and
sta_" by running practice beads from bottom to top of a
3/16 or 1i4-1nch plate, tack-welded in a vertical position
Hold the rod as shown in figure 6, noting that the angle
of the rod is not as steep as for vertlcal-down welding, but
tdted just slightly (approximately five degrees) so the tip
of the electrode points upward. Strike and hold a short arc
until a small amount of metal _s deposited, then quickly
raise the rod upward w_th a wrist movement to increase the
length of the arc at the top of the stroke (fig. 7). As soon
os the metal deposited in the crater hes solidified, bring the
rod down and deposit more metal. Keep repeating this
whipping motion, while gradually moving the rod upward
and toward the plate as the electrode burns off. The length
of the stroke will depend upon the amount of metal de_
posited and the welding current used. Keep the rod in
constant motion once it has left the crater. The purpose
of a long arc is to prevent any metal from being deposited
except when the rod is held at the crater. If globules of
molten metal drop from the tip of the rod when the arc is
lengthened, either the current is too high or the rod has
remained away from the crater too lang. Care should be
taken not to break the arc Qt the top of the stroke. Do not
deposit too much metal at one time as this will cause the
weld to sag and result in a high narrow bead undercut
along the sides• Better penetration can be had by the
vertical-up method• This can be demonstrated by joining
two pieces of 3/16-inch metal with a butt weld, using the
whrpping motion. Leave a gap between the plates and use
a 5/32-inch rod with a fairly high current, determined by
experimenting. The whipping motion wifl melt the corners of
the plate and form a pocket in wh]ch to deposit the weld
metal (fig. 8).
Burn the rod in deep so the crater extends through to the
back side. After completing the weld, inspect the back
side for the smalt bead, whLch indicates 100-percent pene-
tration Buff welds on heawer materials should be welded
on both sides.
On materials up to 1/4-1nch thick, use the whipping motion
on small single-pass fillet welds for lap and tee-joints. Larger
single-pass fillet welds can be made by the whipping motion
with a slight slde-to-slde weave added and combined with
the up and down movement to make a triangular shaped
weave (fig. 9). This will produce a "shelf" upon which
additional metal is deposited intermLttentlyas the welding
progresses• There should be a slight pause in the weaving
mot_an at the toes of the weld to avoid making a bead that
is too convex. Materials 1/4-inch and thicker must be bev-
eled on one or both sides, depending upon the joint.
Practice making a wide bead using a side-to.side weaving
motion with a very shght whipping action at each end to
give the metal at each end a chance to solidify and avoid
undercutting along the sidesof the weld (fig. 10). This type
of bead is used on welds that require more than one pass
and is colTed the finish bead or "wash" pass. Hold a short
arc, making the bead approximately 3/4-inch wide and
fairly hght, Multiple verticoLwelds may be made as shown
in the series of diagrams, figure 11.
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TOP _ I$!
Frgure I 1
r pASS