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GENERAL USE / OPERATION
Ripping cuts
Ripping is cutting lengthwise down the workpiece,
and with the grain. Always use a push stick or similar
safety device when ripping narrow pieces. Rip cuts
can also be made "freehand" following a pencil line
but you will find far more accurate results if a fence
is used, (fig 69).
Fig 69
Resawing
• Resawing is the process of slicing timber to reduce
its thickness, or to produce boards that are thinner
than the original timber, such as veneers and book
matching. The ideal blade for resawing is the widest
one the machine can handle, as the wider the blade
the better it can hold a straight line, a fairly course
tooth (3-4 TPI) is recommended for this cut, (fig 70).
• Resawing is always performed using the rip fence,
use a push stick and often a feather board to ensure
straight safe cuts. Keeping your hands away from
the blade, (fig 71).
Fig 70-71
Crosscutting
• Crosscutting is cutting across the grain of the
timber, usually whilst using the mitre gauge to feed
the timber into the blade. The right hand should
hold the workpiece steady against the mitre gauge,
while the left hand pushes the mitre gauge past the
blade. Cross cuts can also be made "freehand"
following a pencil line but you will find far more
accurate results if a mitre fence is used (fig 72).
Fig 72
Freehand Curve Cutting
• Curve cutting is something all bandsaws do very
well in both shallow and deep timber with the
correct blade installed. An ideal curve cutting blade
is a ¼" x 6 TPI - the narrower the blade the tighter
curve it can cut.
• No fences are used making these cuts and usually
no push sticks either so it is very important to ensure
that your hands remain as far away from the blade
as possible. If the timber is too small or the curve
too tight then the cut is better made on a Scroll saw,
(fig 73).
Fig 73
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