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Related Manuals for Prusa Research PRUSA SL1S SPEED
Summary of Contents for Prusa Research PRUSA SL1S SPEED
- Page 1 3D PRINTING HANDBOOK USER MANUAL FOR THE ORIGINAL PRUSA SL1S SPEED V1.06...
- Page 2 Read carefully! This part of the text has the greatest importance - either for user safety or for proper printer service. This symbol indicates text related to a printer kit only. Handbook version 1.06 from July 7th, 2021 © Prusa Research a.s.
- Page 3 Prusa i3 MK3S, is currently on the market - it’s an improved version of the original 3D printer’s third iteration. Prusa Research keeps expanding into new territories and the Original Prusa SL1S you just purchased is just one of the examples.
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Page 4: Table Of Contents
Table of contents 1. Introduction ................................2. Glossary ..................................2.1. Accessories - bundled and optional ....................3. Quick-start information ............................ 3.1. How to contact tech support and send log files ................4. Your First Print ..............................4.1. Unpacking ..............................4.2. First start and Calibration ........................ - Page 5 7. Connecting PrusaSlicer to the SL1S over the network ..............8. Updating the printer’s firmware ......................... 9. Material Guide ..............................9.1. Important information about resins ....................9.2. Which resins to buy? ..........................9.3. Types of resins ............................9.4. Custom resin calibration ........................
- Page 6 It’s divided into several main parts - pay close attention to chapters about correct usage, health risks, calibration and first print. Product details Title: Original Prusa SL1S SPEED Manufacturer: Prusa Research a.s., Partyzánská 188/7A, Prague, 170 00, Czech Republic Contact e-mail: info@prusa3d.com EEE group: 3 (IT and/or telecommunication equipment) Device use: indoor only Power supply: 100-240 VAC, 1.8 A (50-60 Hz)
- Page 7 Safety instructions Please be very cautious during any interaction with the printer. This printer is an electrical device with moving parts and UV light emission. The device is for indoor use only. Do not expose the printer to rain or snow. Always keep the printer in a dry environment at a minimum distance of 30 cm from other objects.
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Page 8: Introduction
How does SLA 3D printing work? The Original Prusa SL1S SPEED is an SLA, or more specifically, an MSLA 3D printer. SLA stands for Stereolithography Apparatus and the “M” at the beginning means “Masked”. SLA printers use UV light to cure (solidify) photosensitive liquid resins. -
Page 9: Glossary
2. Glossary Lid - The orange-colored lid is made of acrylic and its layers protect the liquid resin from UV light (such as sunlight), which would otherwise cure it. Still, it’s not a 100% shield and the printer should not be placed in direct sunlight. The lid must be closed during printing. Tower / Z-Axis - The mechanism that raises and lowers the cantilever with the print platform. -
Page 10: Accessories - Bundled And Optional
Power Button - Turns the printer on or off. This button won’t disconnect the power supply. To cut off power completely, always disconnect the power cord from the back of the printer. USB port - Used for reading SL1S print files from a USB drive Rear fan with activated carbon filter - helps to filter out odors produced by resins. -
Page 11: Quick-Start Information
3. Quick-start information The SL1S requires maintenance and regular care. It doesn’t take a lot of time and it’s not complicated, however, there are several parts on the 3D printer that can be potentially damaged as a result of incorrect use. Please keep that in mind - failure to follow the instructions in this manual may lead to severe damage to your printer and/or to a loss of warranty. -
Page 12: How To Contact Tech Support And Send Log Files
Print display and UV LED panel Do not look directly in UV Use a soft paper towel or light, use a camera to check the cloth and an LCD screen UV panel! You can also place a cleaning spray to clean the sheet of paper onto the screen. -
Page 14: Your First Print
After a few seconds the display will show the Prusa Research logo and then the Wizard appears. Use the touchscreen to navigate through the wizard. Take your time, read all instructions carefully and remember you scan swipe left/right to reveal more information about the current step. - Page 15 Peel off the sticker on the right side of the printer and open the lid Remove the foam protectors Remove the tank and the foam layer underneath it Carefully peel off the sticker from the display Once the 3D printer is fully unpacked, the Selftest starts. This procedure will make sure your printer arrived in a good shape:...
- Page 16 Remove the resin tank Remove the print platform Close the orange lid Confirm that you hear the music Wait until the check is finished Take a look at the display THROUGH the orange lid. Can you see the company logo on the exposure display? You can place a sheet of paper onto the screen to make the logo more visible.
- Page 17 Make sure the print platform is clean, slide it onto the platform holder on the cantilever and tighten the black knob. Loosen the screw on the cantilever using an Allen key. The platform should move quite freely, but the knob on top has to remain tightened Take the empty resin tank, remove both large screws, rotate it by 90°...
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Page 18: Navigating The Menus
4.3. Navigating the menus SL1S uses a touchscreen display for navigation and for configuration of basic and advanced features. To enter a sub-menu (e.g. Print, Settings…), press the desired icon on the screen. To go back to the previous screen, press the Back on-screen button. To change values in various sub- menus, use the on-screen symbols (such as + and - or arrows up and down). -
Page 19: Updating The Printer's Firmware
4.4. Updating the printer’s firmware It’s a good practice to keep the firmware up-to-date all the time because newer versions come with new features, bugfixes, and improvements. If you don’t have the printer connected to the internet, you can update the firmware using a USB drive. -
Page 20: Time And Time Zone Configuration (Optional)
4.6. Time and time zone configuration (optional) You can configure the printer’s time zone and current time in Settings - Language & Time - Time Settings. If you have the printer connected to the internet, you can use Automatic time settings to have the time updated automatically depending on your time zone. -
Page 21: Running Out Of Resin / Adding Resin Mid-Print
The tank has a max level mark Do not overfill the tank! Any time you are asked to refill the resin to the max, it always means adding it up to the 100% mark, not to the edge of the tank! 4.8. -
Page 22: Starting The First Print
4.9. Starting the First print One last check before you start the first print: Is the printer updated to the latest firmware version? Did you calibrate the printer using the wizard? Have you checked the FEP film in the tank? Have you poured the correct amount of resin into the tank? Have you degreased the print platform with IPA? Is the lid closed? -
Page 23: Removing The Print
4.10. Removing the print Safety instructions - wear gloves! When handling resins, always wear protective gloves and always clean up any drops of resin around the printer. In case the resin gets into contact with your skin, wash it off immediately with water and soap. -
Page 24: Removing A Print Stuck To The Bottom Of The Tank
4.11. Removing a print stuck to the bottom of the tank In case the first layer did not stick to the print platform, it remained stuck at the bottom of the tank. No matter how big or how small the stuck layer is, there’s a quick safe way that will help you remove it from the FEP film without damaging it - see chapter 15.1 - Removing an object stuck to the bottom of the tank. -
Page 25: Bundled 3D Models
To remove supports from 3D printed objects, there’s a couple of things to keep in mind: It’s easier to remove the supports directly after the model is 3D printed and washed in isopropyl alcohol. Curing the model with supports still attached can make the supports more difficult to remove (although this is often resin-specific) Don’t use excessive force. -
Page 26: After-Print Checks And Actions
5. After-print checks and actions The SL1S needs to be cleaned up after every print to avoid potential damage to the printer. Failure to maintain your printer properly may lead to severe damage and loss of warranty. Never leave the resin in the tank after a print finishes. There may be tiny bits of solidified resin left in the tank, which could potentially damage the FEP foil or the display the next time the print platform would go all the way down. -
Page 27: Disposing Of Resins
practices is to place the model in direct sunlight for an extended period of time (e.g. 24-48 hours) depending on the intensity of sunlight. The CW1 can cure an object within 3-5 minutes. Protip: You can use a UV LED nail lamp dryer (a machine used for curing nail polish). They run around 30-40 USD and they can cure the surface of a resin-based print quickly and efficiently. -
Page 28: Menu Structure And Advanced Functions
5.3. Menu structure and advanced functions Print File Browser Project screen / Print Configuration Control Home Platform Home Tank Disable Steppers Settings Calibration Selftest Printer Calibration Display Test Network Ethernet Wi-Fi Hot Spot Set Hostname Login Credentials Platform & Resin Tank Move Platform Move Resin tank Disable Steppers... -
Page 29: Printing Your Own Models
6. Printing your own models Once the printer is fully calibrated (see the previous chapter) and the sample models are looking good, you will probably want to print your own model. There are various ways how to do that. Slicing procedure overview in 6 steps 1. -
Page 30: Creating Your Own Models
6.2. Creating your own models To create a 3D model, you need a dedicated program - a 3D editor. There are a number of various 3D programs and your choice will usually depend on what type of model you wish to create. -
Page 31: Prusaslicer
You can download the latest version of PrusaSlicer from www.prusa3d.com/drivers (stable releases) as a part of the Apps & Drivers package. The Original Prusa SL1S SPEED is supported in PrusaSlicer 2.3.2 and newer. Add object Remove object / Remove All... -
Page 32: Slicing Objects For The Sl1S
Basic importing, slicing and exporting 3D objects is simple. However, PrusaSlicer has advanced menus and settings for experienced users, allowing for a higher level of control. Want to learn more about PrusaSlicer? Visit our Blog at https://www.prusaprinters.org where we publish tips, tricks and extensive guides that will turn you into a master of slicing! 6.5. -
Page 33: Importing An Object Into Prusaslicer
Using “bridges” is not recommended - FFF/FDM 3D printer users know a method called bridging. It means the printer can extrude and cool down the string of filament in mid-air to overcome a gap between two points even without using supports. However, this is not recommended for SLA printers. -
Page 34: Positioning An Object
6.7. Positioning an object Move tool (M) - moves the object in XYZ axes. Click and drag the object to move it in XY axes, use the blue arrow to move it in Z axis (up and down). Scale tool (S) - scales the object, either uniformly or in a single axis. - Page 35 Comparison of SLA supports (left) and FFF supports (right) Each print will require a slightly different approach based on the shape, size and details present on the model. In this chapter, we’ll explain the basics of support creation in general. For more examples, see next chapters.
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Page 36: Pad, Supports, Layer Height And Exposure Times
Manual editing Clicking the Manual editing button opens a new menu and a new set of tools, which enable you to manually add, remove and modify support points on the object. Use Left mouse click to add a support, right mouse click to remove a support, and combine Shift+Left mouse to drag a selection box to select more supports. -
Page 37: Pad
6.9.1. Pad The pad is a structure generated under the print - it’s the base for supports. You can easily detach the pad along with the print from the print platform with a spatula. The pad is recommended, however, it’s also possible to print certain objects without it, depending on the object’s shape. -
Page 38: Exposure Time Explained
PrusaSlicer can estimate the printing time and amount of resin needed 6.9.4. Exposure time explained PrusaSlicer allows you to change the exposure time (the number of seconds for which a single layer is cured) for standard layers and first layers separately. There are no “universally usable” numbers, so we recommend using the preconfigured PrusaSlicer profiles. -
Page 39: Slicing, Exporting And Printing Custom Models
menu -> Change exposure time. However, changing exposure during print may result in visible lines across the printed object. Extremely low or high numbers will almost always result in a failed print. Important information about print times Keep in mind that no matter how many objects (or how big) you place on the print platform, the exposure time remains constant, so each layer will be finished in the same amount of time. -
Page 40: Reims Cathedral
6.11.1. Reims Cathedral This is a very complex model which is actually very easy to slice and print. Disable supports and pad and use the place on face function to quickly rotate the object. Then use Scale, Move and Rotate tools to adjust the final placement before you slice the model. 6.11.2. -
Page 41: Jewelry
6.11.3. Jewelry The Original Prusa SL1S is perfect for printing tiny, highly-detailed models. There’s a couple of things to avoid in order to achieve a great looking surface. The most important thing to keep in mind is the fact that supports can leave tiny marks on the object’s surface, so if your model has parts that should be printed perfectly, make sure there are no supports touching them. -
Page 42: How To Recognize Problematic Areas
6.12. How to recognize problematic areas Each time you slice an object, inspect it carefully in the Preview window. Never start a print without checking the model layer-by-layer first. The Preview mode will help you to discover problematic areas that could lead to a failed print. These are usually parts that aren’t properly supported, broken model files, incorrectly placed holes (with the hollowing method) and similar issues. -
Page 43: Printing Large And Heavy Objects
Part of an object starting mid-air. PrusaSlicer can recognize these issues almost every time - these errors usually appear if you manually delete an important support point. You can fix it by re-generating the supports or by adding support points manually. 6.13. - Page 44 We suggest adding at least two drainage holes. Without them, the uncured resin would end up being trapped inside your finished print. However, be careful: printing a hollowed object can create a suction effect, which makes the object more difficult to detach from the bottom of the tank. This is why it is vital to have a correctly positioned drainage hole - it also serves to negate the suction effect.
- Page 45 Hollowing thickness - The thickness of the resulting shell. The minimum value is 1 mm. Hollowing accuracy - A trade-off between accuracy and performance. If a low hollowing accuracy is set, the resulting model wall thickness may be uneven. Therefore a higher hollowing accuracy is recommended for a small hollowing thickness (for thin shells) to ensure minimum wall thickness.
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Page 46: Connecting Prusaslicer To The Sl1S Over The Network
Solid model: 237 ml of resin, $13.75 resin costs (left). Hollowed model: 81 ml, $4.70 resin costs (right) 7. Connecting PrusaSlicer to the SL1S over the network PrusaSlicer can be connected to the SL1S 3D printer directly, either via ethernet or Wi-Fi connection, enabling you to send sliced models into the printer’s internal storage over the network. -
Page 47: Updating The Printer's Firmware
Go back to PrusaSlicer’s main window with the 3D view. Import an object and slice it as usual. You should see a new button in the lower right corner of the screen that says "Send to printer" when you hover the mouse cursor over it. Click this button to send the file over network to your printer. -
Page 48: Material Guide
to update the printer’s firmware: OTA firmware update OTA (Over The Air) firmware updates are delivered via ethernet or Wi-fi network. Connect the printer to the internet as described in the chapter 4.4 Network connection. If a new firmware is released, the printer will display a notification. -
Page 49: Important Information About Resins
9.1. Important information about resins There’s a couple of things to keep in mind when working with resins: Wear gloves to avoid direct contact of the resin with your skin A simple respirator is recommended Keep out of the reach of children and pets Shake the bottle well before every use for around 10 seconds (make sure the lid is securely tightened before doing so) Wash with water and soap in case the resin gets in contact with skin/eyes... -
Page 50: Types Of Resins
for a resin that solidifies in 2 seconds). Please note that resins with long exposure times also require longer exposure times during post-processing (e.g. in the Curing and Washing Machine)! Resins should be stored in their original containers and properly sealed, ideally in a dark room with a stable temperature. -
Page 51: Custom Resin Calibration
Highly temperature-resistant Heat-resistant resin Used for injection forms Expensive Non-toxic Suitable for dental implants manufacturing Bio-compatible resins Abrasion-resistant Expensive Similar to rubber (70A hardness) Flexible resin Lower resolution of printed parts 9.4. Custom resin calibration We are continuously testing and growing the number of supported resins for the SL1S printer which also features an option for experienced users, who are using special resins and would like to tune their settings. -
Page 52: Optional Accessories
12. Optional Accessories There’s a couple of things you might want to consider buying to make your 3D printing experience better, safer and more convenient. 12.1. Original Prusa Curing and Washing Machine - CW1S Objects printed from liquid resin are usually a bit soft and sticky. To clean them and reach optimal surface properties, the objects need to be washed, dried and cured. -
Page 53: Fep Films - Original And Aftermarket
12.2. FEP Films - Original and Aftermarket The Original Prusa SL1S comes with a spare FEP film, which acts as a transparent bottom of the resin tank. Since this part is a consumable (it will degrade over time by continuous use), you will have to replace it from time to time. -
Page 54: Additional Accessories
You can, of course, use a FEP film from your own source. However, keep in mind that the thickness of the film affects the quality of the print and that the FEP films from our shop have the correct size and holes for screws. Thicker films disperse light more, so the printed object may lose some details. -
Page 55: Regular Printer Maintenance
13. Regular Printer Maintenance Although the Original Prusa SL1S has a number of smart sensors and has been carefully designed to be easy to use, it’s still a machine and requires regular maintenance and care. There are several key areas that require attention if you want to keep your printer in good shape for a long time. -
Page 56: Print Platform Maintenance
Visit our Knowledge Base at https://help.prusa3d.com to learn how to replace the FEP film. 13.3. Print platform maintenance The platform should be cleaned thoroughly after every print - usually, there will be some leftover resin on the platform. Once a print finishes, place the black tray on the printer and use paper towels or a spatula to wipe the top of the platform clean, then proceed to remove the platform and the printed object. -
Page 57: Acrylic Lid
13.5. Acrylic lid The lid has three major functions: it protects the printed model from potential damage, helps to contain resin fumes inside the box and blocks a significant amount of UV light so it doesn’t reach the printing chamber. Especially the last part is important - if you leave the resin in the tank and keep the lid open, it can start to solidify quickly depending on the environment. -
Page 58: Carbon Filter Replacement
place, then slowly and carefully remove the display - be careful not to damage the display’s wires. Use compressed air from the distance of about 30 cm to clean out the dust particles gently. Do not use sharp or rough objects! 13.8. -
Page 59: Hardware Troubleshooting
14. Hardware troubleshooting Please note that detailed hardware troubleshooting articles will be available only online at https://help.prusa3d.com. 14.1. FEP film / Tank bottom replacement The FEP film that serves as the bottom of the resin tank is a consumable. This means its quality will decrease over time - this is intended behaviour. -
Page 60: Spilled Resin
in, so you can see the Spare parts section. Once you receive the new display please follow the guide at help.prusa3d.com (Original Prusa SL1S - Using the Printer - How to replace the print display) to learn how to replace the exposure display correctly. -
Page 61: Printed Object Has Missing Parts
knob at the top of the tower. A freely moving print platform cannot reach an optimal position and the first layer won’t stick. Solution: Tighten the black knob at the top of the platform. b) The bottom of the tank is cloudy/dirty Before you pour the resin into the tank, make sure that the bottom of the tank (the FEP film) is completely clear. -
Page 62: Printed Object Is Missing Small Details
The warrior’s right arm is missing completely and a part of the shield is damaged There are two main reasons (and a third, less common one) why printed objects have missing parts and they both usually come down to incorrect slicing settings: a) Lack of supports Please check the 6.5 Slicing objects for the SL1S chapter to learn how to correctly position an object and generate supports for it. -
Page 63: Printed Object Detached From Supports
Long exposure times will result in a “staircase” effect - the layers won’t blend into each other perfectly and some details may be lost due to this effect. Use recommended exposure time values to fix this issue. 15.5. Printed object detached from supports If the printed object detaches from supports mid-print, it usually falls into the resin tank, while the supports are still attached to the print platform. -
Page 64: Printed Object Is Skewed / Deformed
Solution: Try printing one of the sample objects to see whether the issue remains. If the sample object was printed without trouble, reset your PrusaSlicer settings. If the sample object has the same sort of trouble, inspect the FEP film in the resin tank - it may be dirty. In very rare scenarios, a faulty UV LED panel can be the cause. -
Page 65: Print Doesn't Appear / Resin Does Not Solidify
Solution: Make sure the printer is properly calibrated, tighten the black knob at the top of the tower and tighten both resin tank screws evenly and with the same amount of force. 15.8. Print doesn’t appear / resin does not solidify If the print does not appear on the print platform, nor at the bottom of the resin tank, there are a couple of possible causes: insufficient exposure times, faulty UV panel, faulty LCD screen, or there’s too much isopropyl alcohol in the resin. -
Page 66: Warped Layers
Solution: Try printing a sample object and see if the issue persists. If it does, clean the resin tank properly and try again. Continuous issues with separated / missing layers can be caused by a faulty UV LED panel - check whether it works correctly. Otherwise, the cause is most likely a broken object file. -
Page 67: Large Holes In Printed Objects
Solution: This printing error is caused by the physical properties of resins. Consider hollowing problematic objects, if you encounter layer warping. 15.12. Large holes in printed objects Solution: Make sure the FEP foil on the bottom of the tank is perfectly clean. Carefully remove any dirt / solidified bits. - Page 68 Q: USB is not recognized or ‘File is corrupted’ error A: Try to export / copy the SL1S file again. In case the error is still there, try a different USB drive. Q: Wifi browser does not list my network A: Please, make sure that your wireless network name does not contain non-standard characters.
- Page 70 Print and share! Do not forget to tag your prints with #prusasl1s while sharing so we can find, pin and showcase them with our http://www.prusa3d.com/original-prusa-i3-prints/ Happy Printing :)
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