Assembly; Powering - Arduino MINI PRO 3.3V User Manual

Four pins are actually not located on the edge of the board: A4, A5, A6 and A7. Each of these analog
pins is labeled on the back side of the board.
A4 and A5's location may be very important if you plan on using I 2 C with the Pro Mini – those are the
hardware SDA and SCL pins.

Assembly:

The Arduino Pro Mini doesn't look like much when you first get it; it's as bare-bones as can be. We've
left it up to you to solder headers or wires into the open through-holes. There are a few things to make
you aware of though.
First, decide how you want to connect the FTDI Basic Breakout to the Pro Mini's programming header.
The programming header is a row of six pins on the side of the board, labeled "BLK", "GND", "VCC",
"RXI", "TXO", and "GRN". Since the FTDI Basic board is equipped with a female header, it's usually best
to equip your Mini's programming header with mating male headers, either straight or right-angle.
This Pro Mini had male headers soldered into all pins, so it could slot directly into a breadboard.
Notice the programming header pins are soldered "upside-down", to keep them accessible.
The remaining assembly choices are up to you. There are many options; you could solder in male
headers to make it breadboard-compatible, female headers to make it compatible with jumper wires,
or just solder standard-wire straight into the pins.
Versatility is what makes this board so great, and you can assemble it in whatever way makes the
most sense for your project.

Powering:

The most important factor in any project is how to power it. The Pro Mini doesn't have a barrel jack,
or any other obvious way to connect a power supply, so how do you power the thing?
Pick a power source that suits your project. If you want something that matches the compactness of
the Pro Mini, a battery – LiPo, alkaline, coin cell, etc. – may be a good choice. Or you could use a wall
power supply along with a barrel jack adapter.
Electronics Katrangi Trading
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