Royal Enfield SPRING FRAME O.H.V. 250cc CLIPPER 1954 Workshop Maintenance Manual page 61

ROYAL ENFIELD WORKSHOP MANUAL
a soft mallet, thus allowing the remainder of the
oil to escape.
Pull the bottom tube down as far as it will go,
thus exposing the gland nut which can be
unscrewed with the hand grips E5417, *using a
bar through the bracket for the wheel spindle to
prevent the bottom tube from turning. The
bottom tube can now be withdrawn completely
from the main tube leaving the bottom tube bush,
oil seal and gland nut on the main tube.
Now unscrew the main tube valve port using
"C" spanner E5418. * The spring stud and
spring can now be withdrawn from the lower
end of the main tube.
The bronze main tube bush can now be
tapped off the lower end of the tube using the
bottom tube bush for this purpose. The bottom
tube bush, oil seal and gland nut can then be
withdrawn.
3. Spring
The original overall length of the spring is
18.3/16 in. A new spring should be fitted if the
old one has set by more than 1 inch.
4. Reassembly of Parts
No difficulty should be experienced with this.
If new oil seals have been fitted it may be found
that the action of the fork is very stiff when the
gland nuts are tightened down fully. In this case
the nuts may be left half a turn or so slack until
the seals have freed off, after which they should
be tightened down.
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* See Manual of Workshop Tools.
Section J2 Page 2
5. Steering Head Races
The steering head bearing consists of two
deep groove thrust races each containing
nineteen 1/4 in. diameter balls. The bearing is
adjusted by tightening the steering stem locknut
after loosening the ball head clip screw and both
the fork crown clamp bolts. The head should be
adjusted so that, when the front wheel is lifted
clear of the ground, a light tap on the handlebars
will cause the steering to swing to full lock in
either direction, while at the same time there
should be only the slightest trace of play in the
bearings. Do not forget to tighten the ball head
clip screw and fork crown clamp bolts. Before
tightening the latter make sure that the cover
tubes are located centrally round the main tubes
so that the bottom tube does not rub inside the
cover tube. A pair of split bushes (Fig. 3) is
useful to ensure centralisation of the cover tubes.
6. Removal of Complete Fork
The fork complete with front wheel and
mudguard can be removed from the machine, if
necessary, by adopting the following procedure.
The leads to the lighting switch and ammeter
should be disconnected from the battery,
rectifier, tail lamp, alternator and earth points at
their lower ends, or at the plug and socket
connectors when these are provided. If it is
required to remove the lighting switch and
ammeter these are push fits in the rubber bushes
in the fork head. Disconnect the speedometer