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4. Insert the leads of the new resistor through the binding post hole. Retighten
the binding post.
5. At tach the new resistor to its heatsink using the 4- 40 Allen bolt.
6. Re-at tach the resistor access cover to the enclosure, making sure not to over
tighten the screws.
Replacing a Bad Driver
If you believe that a driver is blown, make sure that you have tried replacing the pro-
tective resistor before you replace the driver. No sound coming from a driver is of ten a
blown resistor and not a bad driver. If you need to replace a driver, do so as follows:
1. Using the supplied Allen wrench, remove the machine screws holding the
driver in place.
2. Insert the Allen wrench into one of the driver screw holes 1/8 inch. Gently
lif t out the driver, and place it onto the foam pad covering the front baf fle.
Note: It is best to place an old towel under the driver so that you will not dam-
age the enclosure when unsoldering the driver.
3. Using a 900 degree F. soldering iron, heat up the solder joints and remove
the driver.
4. Melt a small 1/8" diameter bead of solder onto the tip of each wire. Heat the
wire up until you see the solder wick into the copper.
5. Place the replacement driver onto the cloth and solder on the wires to the
driver. The white wire connects to the positive side, and the black wire con-
nects to the negative. The positive side is generally indicated by a red dot.
Make sure to heat up the solder joint completely and hold firmly in place
until the solder sets.
6. Replace the driver foam gasket if necessary.
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7. Place the driver into the machined recess.
8. Replace the screws, tightening them to 30 inch/pounds of torque.
Note: The bolts used to attach the drivers to the baffle are tightened at the fac-
tory using a digital torque wrench. The recommended torque for the allen-head
bolts for each of the drivers is 35 inch-lb. The Maximum bolt torque is 37 inch-
lb.
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