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Pump
Maintenance
Read the following instructions
carefully before replacing any
parts. Reasonable care and safe
methods should be practiced.
Check
local
codes
requirements before installation.
Only
competent
should make the installations.
Warning: Before handling these
pumps and controls, always
disconnect the power first.
Do not smoke or use sparkable
electrical devices or flames in
a septic (gaseous) or possible
septic sump.
Before removing the pump from
its installation for repairs, check
first to see if the trouble
is caused by:
1. Miswiring of the pump into
the terminal block.
2. Miswiring of the float level
controls into the panel.
3. Miswiring
inside
control panel.
4. Tripped circuit breaker. If the
breaker is manually reset and
then trips off again, the
problem could be:
a. short circuit in motor or
control panel
b. water in the motor housing
c. insufficient amp capacity of
wiring or breakers
d. improper panel wiring
5. Tripped overload. If overload
is manually reset and then trips
off again, the problem could be:
a. pump or piping clogged
b. pump motor or bearings
may be defective
4
c. start capacitor in motor may
have failed
d. pump may be miswired to
terminal block
e. head lower than rating,
pumping too much liquid
6. Air locked pump. A sump
pump is said to be air locked if
air traps in the pump and it
and
cannot get out, thus preventing
pump from operating.
electrician
As a precaution, a
should be drilled in the
discharge pipe below the
check valve. The check valve
should be 12 to 18 inches
above pump discharge. Do not
install check valve directly
into pump discharge opening.
Note: In sumps where the pump
is operating daily, air locking
rarely occurs.
7. Wrong
Rotation
counterclockwise
looking
Correct improper rotation on
three
reversing any two line leads.
the
Rotation check is not necessary
on single phase pumps.
8. Closed discharge gate valve.
9. Plugged impeller or pipeline.
10.Discharge head may be too
high. Check elevation against
design point of pump.
11.Floats not hanging free in
the sump.
12.Malfunctioning floats.
Checking Power Cord:
To be sure wires are not
burned off or broken in cord,
use ohmmeter for check. Set
ohmmeter scale pointer to R X 1
scale and attach one meter lead to
white cord wire and one meter
⁄
" hole
1
8
impeller
rotation.
should
be
when
at
the
impeller.
phase
pumps
by
lead to black cord wire, then place
a
screwdriver
blade
terminals of plug. If cord is O.K.,
meter needle will go to zero
and stay there. If meter needle
does
not
move,
indicate an open wire and cord
must be replaced.
Repair – Motor:
Warning: Be certain power to
pump is off! Disconnect pump
power cord from terminals and
remove pump from sump pit.
1. Clean any dirt or trash from
the outside of the pump before
dismantling.
2. If motor does not run when
the pump is tested, the capacitor
and/or stator must be checked.
See Step 5. Remove plug (#9)
from top of housing (#2) and
pour
oil
into
preferably glass, so that oil
can be observed.
3. If oil is clear, it will indicate
motor is not burned and there
has been no water leak into
the motor. If oil is cloudy, it
will indicate water in motor,
or, if oil is black, it will
indicate a burned stator. If
water is in the oil, all seals
should be replaced.
4. After draining oil, carefully
loosen the power cord assembly
from the motor housing. With
power cord loose, remove the
four screws (#6) and carefully
lift off the motor housing (#2)
exposing the capacitor (single
phase [1ø] only) and the
motor assembly.
5. On single phase units, check
capacitor (#3) using ohmmeter.
With ohmmeter scale set at R
X 1000, attach meter leads to
capacitor. The meter needle
should go to zero and come
across
this
will
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