Page 2 NOTE Refer to the end of the appropriate Section for the latest instructions when carrying out work on the vehicle. Additional copies of this publication (Part No. AKD926B) can only be obtained from an M.G. Distributor. Issued by THE M.G. CAR COMPANY LIMITED Proprietors: Morris Motors Limited ABINGDON-ON-THAMES Exported by...
Page 3: Introduction
This Manual has been prepared to provide the service operator with the necessary information for the maintenance and repair of the M.G. (Series MGA Twin Cam). The Manual also serves as a ready-reference book for service supervision and covers items of procedure for the guidance of both the fully qualified and the less-experienced mechanic.
Page 5: Table Of Contents
CONTENTS INTRODUCTION ..............................3 GENERAL INFORMATION ..........................12 PART NAME ALTERNATIVES ............................23 MAINTENANCE ATTENTION .......................... 28 SECTION A THE ENGINE ..........................36 GENERAL DESCRIPTION ..............................36 LUBRICATION SYSTEM ..............................36 A.1 DRAINING THE SUMP.............................. 36 A.2 OIL PRESSURE ................................. 37 A.3 OIL PRESSURE RELIEF VALVE ...........................
Page 6 A.38 MODIFIED HALF-SPEED SHAFT AND OIL PUMP DRIVING SPINDLE ................ 61 A.39 MODIFIED PISTONS AND RINGS ..........................61 A.40 MODIFIED CRANKCASE BREATHER PIPE ....................... 61 A.41 MODIFIED TAPPETS .............................. 61 A.42 MODIFIED TIMING COVER GASKET ........................61 A.43 ALTERNATIVE PISTONS ............................61 SERVICE TOOLS ................................
Page 7 D7. TRACING FUEL PUMP TROUBLES ..........................99 D.8 FUEL PUMP MAINTENANCE ..........................100 D.9 CARBURETTERS ..............................100 D.10 CARBURETTER ADJUSTMENTS..........................101 D.11 REMOVING AND REPLACING THE CARBURETTERS ..................... 104 D.12 CENTERING THE JET ............................105 D.13 SOURCES OF CARBURETTER TROUBLE ....................... 105 D.14 AIR CLEANERS ..............................
Page 8 GENERAL DESCRIPTION .............................. 138 LUBRICATION ................................138 H.1 REMOVING AND REPLACING A HUB EXTENSION AND AXLE SHAFT ..............139 H.2 REMOVING AND REPLACING A HUB ........................139 H.3 RENEWING THE BEVEL PINION OIL SEAL....................... 140 H.4 REMOVING THE DIFFERENTIAL PINIONS ......................140 H.5 REPLACING THE DIFFERENTIAL PINIONS ......................
Page 9 L.3 REMOVING A FRONT DAMPER ..........................180 L.4 TESTING THE DAMPERS ............................180 SECTION M THE BRAKING SYSTEM ......................181 GENERAL DESCRIPTION .............................. 181 BRAKE UNITS ................................181 MASTER CYLINDER ..............................181 MAINTENANCE ................................182 M.1 ADJUSTING THE BRAKE PEDAL ..........................182 M.2 PRIMING AND BLEEDING THE BRAKE SYSTEM (E ) ................
Page 10 N.22 THE SIDELAMPS ..............................209 N.23 THE NUMBER-PLATE ILLUMINATION ......................... 209 N.24 THE PANEL AND WARNING LIGHTS ........................210 WIRING DIAGRAM ..............................211 KEY TO WIRING COLOURS ............................213 N.25 REPLACEMENT BULBS ............................213 N.26 FITTING A FOG LAMP ............................214 N.27 LOCATION AND REMEDY OF FAULTS ........................
Page 11 R.3 A TWISTED FRAME ..............................246 R.4 DIAGONAL FRAME CHECK ............................. 248 SECTION S THE BODY ..........................249 S.1 REMOVING A DOOR LOCK ............................. 249 S.2 REMOVING THE WINDSHIELD ..........................249 S.3 REMOVING THE FRONT BUMPER .......................... 249 S.4 REMOVING THE REAR BUMPER ..........................250 S.5 REMOVING THE HOOD ............................
Page 12: General Information
GENERAL INFORMATION CONTROLS Hand brake The hand brake lever is located alongside the driver's seat and operates the rear wheel brakes only. To operate, pull up the lever and press the knob in the end with the thumb to lock the lever in position. To release the brakes, pull upwards on the lever to automatically release the lock and then push downwards.
Page 13 Gear lever The four forward gears and the reverse gear are engaged by moving the lever to the positions indicated in the illustration. To engage the reverse gear, move the lever to the left of the neutral position until resistance is felt, apply side pressure to the lever to overcome the resistance and then pull it backwards to engage the gear.
Page 14 2. Fog lamp switch. 7. Flasher warning light 12. Ignition warning light.. 3. Oil gauge 8. Horn button. 13. Headlamp beam warning light,. 4. Panel light switch 9. Starter switch 14. Total mileage.. 5. Speedometer 10. Water temperature gauge Speedometer The speedometer also records the trip and total distances.
Page 15 connected to the battery and is ready for use when a fog lamp is connected to it. Pull out the knob to switch on the fog lamp. The left-hand side of the Instrument panel (R.H.D.) 1. Map-reading light switch 5. Windshield washer control 2.
Page 16 Ignition switch The fuel pump and gauge are brought into action by this switch, which is also the master switch for the windshield wipers and direction indicators. Windshield wiper switch The windshield wipers are self-parking and operate only when the ignition is switched on. Pull out the control 'W' to set the wiper blades in motion.
Page 17 The circulation of the air through the heater unit with the controls positioned as recommended on Heater operation Demist The right-hand knob on the heater unit control panel operates a shutter in the panel above the gearbox cover When the control is pushed into the normal position the shutter is open and most of the air from the unit will enter the car at the toeboard while some will issue from the vents below the windshield.
Page 18 increase the supply of air switch on the blower motor. Warm weather. Set the controls as for hot weather. To increase the supply of air switch on the blower motor. To prevent mist forming on the windshield pull out the demist control partially. Cold weather.
Page 19 OPTIONAL FITTINGS The following items of equipment are available as optional fittings: Tonneau cover. Competition windshield assembly Radiator blind. Luggage carrier Heating and demisting equipment. Wing driving mirror. Twin horns. Cold air ventilation kit. Fog lamps. Ashtray. Cigar lighter. Badge bar. H.M.V.
Page 20 Body Number. Stamped on a plate secured to the Gearbox Number. Stamped on top of the right-hand side of the dash panel gearbox casing adjacent to the dipstick Rear Axle Number. Stamped on the front of the left-hand rear axle tube POWER UNIT SERIAL NUMBER CODING The engine number and later engines comprises a series of letters and numbers, presenting in code the capacity, make, and type of unit, gearbox and ancillaries fitted, and the type of compression...
Page 21 1st PREFIX GROUP—Cubic capacity, make, and type M—Morris 1st Prefix number R—Riley 8-803 c.c. W—Wolseley 9-950 c.c. 2nd Prefix letter A—Z used for the 12--1200 c.c. variations of engine type 15-1500 c.c. 2nd PREFIX GROUP—Gearbox and 16-1600 c.c. ancillaries A—Automatic gearbox 22-2200 c.c.
Page 22 Identification has been standardized and is effected in the following manner: Nuts. By a circular groove turned on the end face of the nut or by connected circles stamped on one flat of the hexagon. Bolts and set screws. By a circular depression turned on the head or by connected circles stamped on one flat of the hexagon.
Page 23: Part Name Alternatives
PART NAME ALTERNATIVES M.G. part name Alternatives Piston pin. Small-end pin. ENGINE Gudgeon pin Wrist pin Scraper ring Oil control ring Expansion plug. Welch plug. Core plug Sealing disc Oil pan. Oil reservoir. Oil sump CONTROLS Mixture control Choke. Strangler GEARBOX Gear lever Shift lever...
Page 24 ELECTRICAL Dynamo Generator Voltage regulator. Cut-out. Control box Voltage control Silencer Muffler BODY Bonnet Hood Wing Fender, Mudguard ©2018 morrisgarages.ch...
Page 25 DO NOT operate at full throttle in any gear. DO NOT allow the engine to labour in any gear. CAR NUMBER IDENTIFICATION CODE Car number identification of the MGA Twin Cam consists of two letters and one figure followed by the chassis number. ©2018 morrisgarages.ch...
Page 26 The coding is as follows: YD1 (Ch. No.) Right-hand drive (Home) YD2 (Ch. No.) Right-hand drive (Export) 2-seater YD3 (Ch. No.) Left-hand drive YM1 (Ch. No.) Right-hand drive (Home) Coupé YM2 (Ch. No.) Right-hand drive (Export) YM3 (Ch. No.) Left-hand drive FROST PRECAUTIONS If the car is not stored in a warmed building, steps must be taken to prevent the cooling water from freezing during frosty weather.
Page 27 B.M.C. SEAT BELTS The body of the car incorporates anchorage points to facilitate the fitting of B.M.C. seat belts. To use the seat belt, position the buckle tongue and the long belt approximately in the centre of the belt and ensure that the upper part of the belt passes over the shoulder; pass the tongue across the body. Adjust the short belt until the buckle is located just in front of the hip and push the tongue into the buckle until it clicks in the locked position.
Page 28: Maintenance Attention
MAINTENANCE ATTENTION 500 miles (800 km.) free service During the early life of the car, soon after it has completed 500 miles (800 km.), you are entitled to have it inspected free of charge by the M.G. Dealer from whom you purchased it, or, if this should not be convenient, by any other M.G.
Page 29 7. Body Check doors for ease in opening and closing. If necessary, lightly smear all dovetails and striking plates with a suitable lubricant. 8. Electrical Check electrical system functionally. Examine battery and top up to correct level with distilled water. Clean and tighten terminals.
Page 30 Daily. Inspect oil level in crankcase. Top up if necessary. See that the radiator is full of water. Weekly. Test tyre pressures. (See 'GENERAL DATA'.) 1,000 miles (1600 km.) service 1. Engine Top up carburetter piston dashpots. Lubricate carburetter controls. Top up radiator header tank.
Page 31 3,000 miles (4800 km.) service 1. Engine Top up carburetter piston dashpots. Lubricate carburetter controls. Top up radiator header tank. Check dynamo drive belt tension. Clean and re-oil air cleaner elements. 2. Ignition Check automatic ignition control, lubricating distributor drive shaft and cam and advance mechanism. Check distributor contact points, and adjust if necessary.
Page 32 4,000 miles (8000 km.) service Carry out the 1,000 miles (1600 km.) service. 5,000 miles (6400 km.) service Carry out the 1,000 miles (1600 km.) service. 6,000 miles (9600 km.) service 1. Engine Top up carburetter piston dashpots. Lubricate carburetter controls. Top up radiator header tank.
Page 33 9. Lubrication Change oil in engine, gearbox, and rear axle. Fit new oil filter element. Lubricate all nipples (except steering rack and pinion). Repack front hub caps with grease. 10. Wheels and tyres Check tyre pressures. Check wheel alignment. Change road wheels round diagonally, including spare, to regularize tyre wear. 11.
Page 34 Clean carburetters and fuel pump filters. 2. Ignition Check automatic ignition control, lubricating distributor drive shaft and cam and advance mechanism. Check distributor contact points, and adjust if necessary. Fit new sparking plugs. 3. Clutch Check level of fluid in the hydraulic clutch master cylinder. 4.
Page 35 11. Lubrication Drain engine oil, flush out with flushing oil, and refill with engine oil. Change oil in gearbox and rear axle. Fit new oil filter element. Lubricate steering rack and pinion. Lubricate all nipples. Repack front hub caps with grease. Lubricate speedometer and tachometer cables 12.
Page 36: Section A The Engine
SECTION A THE ENGINE GENERAL DESCRIPTION The M.G. (Series MGA) twin-overhead-camshaft engine is built in unit construction with an 8 in. (20.3 cm.) Borg & Beck clutch. The valves, which are fitted with bucket-type tappets, are inclined at an included angle of 80° in the detachable aluminium-alloy cylinder head and are directly operated by the chain-driven camshafts.
Page 37: Oil Pressure
A.2 OIL PRESSURE Under normal running conditions the oil pressure should not drop below 30 lb./sq. in. (2.1 kg. /cm.) on the gauge at normal road speeds, whilst approximately 10 lb./sq. in. (.7 kg. /cm.) should be shown when the engine is idling. New engines with new oil will give considerably higher readings at low speeds.
Page 38: Inlet Manifold
Unscrew the union nut and disconnect the ignition vacuum control pipe from the front carburetter. Remove the nut and flat washer on top of each float-chamber to release the vent pipes. Remove the four nuts, spring washers, and plain washers securing each carburetter flange and withdraw the carburetters.
Page 39: Header Tank
A.7 HEADER TANK Removal Remove the heater air intake pipe. Slacken the hose clips between the thermostat housing cover and the header tank. Remove the two set screws, spring washers, and plain washers securing the header tank mounting bracket at the rear of the tank. Release the overflow pipe at the rubber connection to the filler neck and lift out the header tank.
Page 40 camshaft flange and engage the thread on the spindle with the support plate (see Fig. A.2). Remove the driving sprocket set screws completely. Reconnecting When reassembling the driving sprockets to the camshaft, line up the marks (made on removal) on the flanges before fitting the sprocket Securing screws.
Page 41: (Transverse Section) The M.g. Series Mga (Twin Cam) Engine
(Transverse Section) THE M.G. Series MGA (Twin Cam) ENGINE A.11 CAMSHAFTS Remove the camshaft covers and disconnect the camshaft driving sprockets (see Section A.10). Slacken the camshaft bearing cap nuts a turn at a time to allow the camshaft to rise evenly on the studs.
Page 42: Camshaft Bearings
Replacement When refitting the cylinder head, it is advisable to use a new gasket. The seals fitted between the front camshaft bearings and the engine front plate should be examined and renewed if necessary. Tighten the cylinder head nuts in the correct sequence (see Fig. A.3), using a torque Wrench. The torque wrench settings are given in the 'GENERAL DATA' section.
Page 43: Decarbonizing
A.14 DECARBONIZING Remove the cylinder head as described in Section A.13. Withdraw the valves as described in Section A.15. Remove the cylinder head gasket and plug the waterways with a clean rag. If special equipment is not available for decarbonizing it will be necessary to scrape the carbon deposit from the piston crowns and cylinder head, using a blunt scraper.
Page 44: Valves And Seatings
Fig. A.4 The camshaft housing (sectioned) positioned on a wooden block for valve guide removal Replacement When fitting new valve guides they should be pressed in from the top of the cylinder head until the flange registers on the bottom of the valve spring recess. A.17 VALVES AND SEATINGS Grinding and testing Remove the valves as in Section A.15.
Page 45: Tappet Clearances
A.18 TAPPET CLEARANCES If the engine is to give its best performance and the valves are to retain their maximum life it is essential to maintain the correct tappet clearances. Accordingly, it is recommended that the clearance be checked at regular intervals and any necessary adjustments made. The clearance figure for both inlet and exhaust valves is shown in the "GENERAL DATA' section.
Page 46: Valve Timing-Checking And Adjusting
.114 in. (2.897 mm.) .116 in. (2.948 mm.) Fig. A.5 Withdrawing a tappet with a valve grinding suction tool. The adjusting shim is indicated by the arrow A.19 VALVE TIMING-CHECKING AND ADJUSTING Excessive stretch in the timing chain or variations in the tappet clearances will have a considerable effect on the valve timing and cause the performance of the car to suffer.
Page 47 Fig. A.6 The use of a dial indicator to check the valve timing. The indicator needle has moved in an anti-clockwise direction, showing a total tappet displacement of .074 in. (1.882 mm.) in this example Proceed as follows. Remove the camshaft covers and check the tappet clearances as detailed in Section A.18; adjust them if necessary.
Page 48 Fig. A.7 When the groove in the crankshaft pulley coincides with the small projection on the timing case Nos. 1 and 4 pistons are at T.D.C Transfer the dial indicator to No. 1 exhaust tappet without moving the engine from T.D.C. and set the dial indicator to '0'.
Page 49 Fig. A.8 The camshaft locking tool (18G551) in use. See Section A.35 for dimensions Fig. A.9 When replacing the timing gears the 'T' markings must be in line as shown Check that the 'T' markings on the crankshaft and half-speed shaft gears are in their correct relationship (see Fig.
Page 50: Timing Chain-Adjusting
Turn the inlet camshaft sprocket in a clockwise direction to pull the timing chain tight between the half- speed shaft sprocket and the inlet camshaft sprocket. If two opposite holes in the sprocket do not line up exactly with the tapped holes in the camshaft flange it will be necessary to use the Vernier arrangement provided by the holes in the camshaft sprocket.
Page 51: Timing Chain Cover
Remove the oil filler cap at the front of the exhaust camshaft cover to gain access to the adjuster screw and locknut. Release the locknut and carefully turn the adjuster screw in a clockwise direction until a change in resistance is felt. Turn the screw back (anti-clockwise) three-quarters of a turn to obtain the required clearance of 1/32 in.
Page 52: Timing Chain
securing the steering rack to the frame. The steering rack may now be pulled forward clear of the crankshaft pulley. Remove the water pump and by-pass pipe (see Section A.4) and the distributor and distributor drive gear and housing. Remove the camshaft covers. Bend back the tab washer on the starting dog nut and remove the nut with a suitable tool (such as service tool 18G98).
Page 53: Engine Front Plate
distributor drive gear and withdraw the gears. Both gears are located on Woodruff keys. The timing chain may now be removed. Replacement When replacing the half-speed shaft driving gear the 'T' markings must be lined up as shown in Fig. A.9.
Page 54: Sump And Oil Pump Strainer
Disconnect the tachometer drive cable from the rear of the cylinder block. Release the exhaust pipes from the exhaust manifolds and from the steady bracket on the engine rear mounting plate. Slacken the exhaust pipe clamp bolt at the joint between the front and rear pipes and remove the front pipe from the vehicle.
Page 55: Pistons And Connecting Rods
found to be in a worn condition it is advisable to fit a new crankshaft, complete with main and big-end bearings, as supplied by the Factory Both the big-end and main bearing liners are located in position in the bearing housings by a small tag on one side of each half-bearing;...
Page 56: Piston Rings
< Fig. A.12 A connecting rod bearing. Note the bearing locating tab Dismantling Remove the two circlips securing each gudgeon pin in its piston and press the gudgeon pin out. Mark the gudgeon pins and pistons for reassembly to their original positions and to their original connecting rods.
Page 57: Half-Speed Shaft
Raise one end of the ring out of its groove. Insert the steel strip between the ring and the piston. Rotate the strip around the piston, applying slight upward pressure to the raised portion of the ring until it rests on the land above the ring grooves. It can then be eased off the piston. Do not remove or replace the rings over the piston skirt, but always over the top of the piston.
Page 58: Oil Pump
Secure the drive gear housing with the two nuts, spring washers, and flat washers. Refit the distributor, referring to Section B.7 for retiming instructions if the distributor clamp plate has been released. A.31 OIL PUMP Remove the sump and oil pump strainer (see Section A.25). Two bolts secure the oil pump cover and three studs secure the pump to the crankcase.
Page 59: Crankshaft
A.33 CRANKSHAFT Removal Remove the engine from the car and remove the clutch and flywheel (Section A.32) and the gearbox mounting plate. Remove the sump, oil strainer, timing chain cover, timing chain, and engine front plate (Section A.23). Remove the big-end bearing cap and then take off the main bearing caps (see Section A.26). Mark the big-end bearing cap and bearing to ensure that it is reassembled to the correct journal, taking care, in the case of the bearings, that they are not damaged or distorted when marking.
Page 60: Modified Engine Mounting
To replace Use only Standard: +1, +2, +3, +4, +5 +6, +7, +8, +9, +10 +11, +12, +13, +14, +15, +16 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 6, 7, 8, 9, 10 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16 Fig. A.14 A camshaft locking tool A.37 MODIFIED ENGINE MOUNTING Commencing at Chassis No.
Page 61: Modified Half-Speed Shaft And Oil Pump Driving Spindle
This packing plate is introduced to give an increased clearance between the starting dog (on the crankshaft pulley) and the steering-rack housing. The modification can be fitted to chassis prior to the one given above. A.38 MODIFIED HALF-SPEED SHAFT AND OIL PUMP DRIVING SPINDLE In cases of excessive wear on the oil pump driving spindle and half-speed shaft skew gearing, a modified shaft (Part No.
Page 62: Service Tools
is available under Part No. AEH690 and must be operated with a static ignition setting of 8o B.T.D.C. Pistons to Part No. AEH681 giving a compression ratio of 9.9:1 are still available, but their use should be confined to competition work with 100-octane fuel only. The static ignition setting for 9.9:1 compression ratio pistons remains at T.D.C.
Page 63 18G28. Valve Seat Finishing Cutter-Inlet 18G28A. Valve Seat Glaze Breaker-Inlet 18G28B. Valve Seat Narrowing Cutter-Top-Inlet 18G174. Valve Seat Finishing Cutter--Exhaust 18G174A. Valve Seat Glaze Breaker--Exhaust 18G174B. Valve Seat Narrowing Cutter-- Top-Exhaust The use of these cutting tools will save lengthy and wasteful grinding in when the valve seats are pitted.
Page 64 18G69. Oil Pump Relief Valve Grinding-in Tool This tool is designed for the removal and grinding in of the oil relief valve. Tightening the knurled set screw will expand the rubber plunger, which ensures that the tool is a tight fit when inserted into the hollow oil relief valve.
Page 65 18G123A. Camshaft* Liner Reamer (basic tool) This tool is essential when reconditioning cylinder blocks, otherwise half-speed shaft liners cannot be reamed in true and in consequence the clearance between the half- speed shaft journal and the liner will be incorrect. The cutters and pilots for use with this basic tool are supplied separately.
Page 66 18G124A. Camshaft* Liner Remover and Replacer (basic tool) Half-speed shaft liners can be removed and replaced accurately and without the damage invariably associated with the use of improvised drifts. Adaptors for use with this basic tool are supplied separately. 18G124F. Camshaft Liner Remover Adaptor-Front 18G124C.
Page 67 AWAY from the bearing (toward the rotating flange of the crankshaft). Refer to Confidential Service Memorandum MG-416. Section A.29 - from prior issues: This section was printed in prior issues but was not included in Issue Section A.44 - from prior issues: This section was printed in prior issues but was not included in Issue...
Page 68: Section B The Ignition System
SECTION B THE IGNITION SYSTEM DESCRIPTION The distributor is mounted at the front of the engine on the left-hand side and is driven from the front of the half-speed shaft. The automatic advance device is housed in the distributor unit, and it consists of a centrifugally and vacuum operated mechanism by means of which the ignition is advanced in proportion to the engine speed and load.
Page 69: Locating A Low-Tension Circuit Fault
Check that the contacts are clean and free from pits, burns, oil, or grease. Turn the engine and check that the contacts are opening and closing correctly, and that the clearance is correct when the contacts are fully opened. Correct the gap if necessary to between .014 and .016 in. (.35 and .40 mm.). Disconnect the cable at the contact breaker terminal of the coil and at the low-tension terminal of the distributor and connect a test lamp between these terminals.
Page 70: High-Tension Cables
Fig. B.1 The method of connecting H.T. leads MGA (Twin Cam) B.4 HIGH-TENSION CABLES The high-tension cables must be examined carefully and any which have the insulation cracked, perished, or damaged in any way must be renewed. To fit the cables to the terminal of the ignition coil thread the knurled moulded terminal nut over the lead, bare the end of the cable for about 4 in.
Page 71: Removing And Replacing The Distributor
The moving contact can be removed from its mounting to assist cleaning. Check and adjust the contact breaker setting after cleaning the contacts. 3. Check that the moving arm is free on its pivot. If it is sluggish, remove the arm and polish the pivot pin with a strip of fine emery-cloth.
Page 72 To set the distributor proceed as follows: 1. Turn the crankshaft in the direction of rotation until No. 4 piston is at T.D.C. on its compression stroke. This can best be effected by turning the engine and observing the valves. When the valves are 'rocking' (i.e. exhaust just closing and inlet just opening) on No. 1 cylinder No.
Page 73 case Nos. 1 and 4 pistons are at T.D.C. Fig. B.4 The components parts of the DM2.P4 distributor ©2018 morrisgarages.ch...
Page 74: Dismantling The Distributor
B.8 DISMANTLING THE DISTRIBUTOR The contact breaker plate may be removed as an assembly to give access to the centrifugal weights without completely dismantling the distributor. To do this remove the rotor arm and withdraw the slotted nylon low-tension terminal post from the distributor body. Take out the two screws which secure the plate assembly to the distributor body, ease up the plate, and unhook the flexible actuating link connected to the contact breaker plate.
Page 75: Coil
in the original position. When seen from above, the small offset of the driving dog must be on the right and the driving slot for the rotor arm must be in the six o'clock position. 4. Adjust the contact breaker to give a maximum opening of .014 to .016 in. (.35 to .40 mm.).
Page 76 After cleaning the plugs in a special cleaner blow all surplus abrasive out of the body recesses, and off the plug threads, by means of an air blast. Next examine the threads for carbon. Any deposits can be removed, and the threads cleaned with a wire brush. A wire buffing wheel may also be utilized, but reasonable care must be used in both methods in order not to injure the electrodes or the tip of the insulator.
Page 77: New-Type Distributor
Fig. B.5 Adjusting the plug gap with the Champion setting tool B.13 NEW-TYPE DISTRIBUTOR A new distributor (Part No. AEJ41), having a roller weight mechanism with a positive stop (to prevent over advance) and no vacuum advance mechanism, has been introduced. When this distributor is fitted, the vacuum advance pipe must be removed, and the union blanked off with blanking plug (Part No.
Page 78 Fig. B.6 Checking the distributor drive shaft backlash While the plug is under pressure in the tester it should be inspected for leakage by applying oil round the terminal. Leakage is indicated by the production of air bubbles, the intensity of which will serve to indicate the degree of leakage.
Page 79: Checking The Ignition Timing
Instructions for timing the distributor are given in Section B.7 NOTICE: -- This is page B.8 from the earlier Issue 2 of the MG Series Twin Cam Workshop Manual. Section B.13 here gives instructions for setting ignition timing with the earlier distributor (vacuum advance model).
Page 80: Section C The Cooling System
SECTION C THE COOLING SYSTEM Fig. C.1 The cooling system header tank is positioned above the exhaust manifold on the left-hand side of the engine. Remove the cap slowly if the engine is hot DESCRIPTION The cooling system is sealed, and the water circulation is assisted by a pump attached to the front of the engine and driven by a belt from the crankshaft.
Page 81: C3 Filling The Cooling System
Open the two drain taps. One is fitted on the righthand side of the base of the radiator and the other at the rear of the cylinder block on the right-hand side. NOTE. -If anti-freeze mixture is being used it should be drained into a suitable container and carefully preserved for replacement.
Page 82 which the dynamo pivots, and releasing the bolt securing it to the slotted link and the nut securing the slotted link to the engine. Raise the dynamo bodily until the belt tension is correct. Tighten up the bolts with the dynamo in this position. NOTE.
Page 83: Cold Weather Precautions
C.6 COLD WEATHER PRECAUTIONS As the cooling system is sealed, relatively high temperatures are developed in the header tank. For this reason, anti-freeze solutions having an alcohol base are unsuitable owing to their high evaporation rate producing rapid loss of coolant and a consequent interruption of the circulation of coolant.
Page 84 Reassembly is a reversal of the dismantling procedure, but care must be taken to see that the seal is in good condition before proceeding. Before assembling the pump body to the scroll casing, ensure that a running clearance exists between the body and the pump vane as indicated in Fig. C.5. No adjustment is provided for varying the designed clearance, which should always be present.
Page 86: Key To The Water Pump And Thermostat Components
KEY TO THE WATER PUMP AND THERMOSTAT COMPONENTS 1. Scroll 19. Vane. 37. Thermostat housing, 2. Body. 20. Felt washer. 38. Thermostat 3. Inlet pipe. 21. Dust cover. 39. Housing cover. 4. Scroll vent plug. 22. Bearing. 40. Joint for cover. 5.
Page 87: Radiator Pressure Valve
Fig. C.5 A sectioned view of the water pump showing the clearance between the body and the pump vane C.9 RADIATOR PRESSURE VALVE To prevent loss of coolant due to vibration of the valve in the filler cap, a 7 lb. (3.175 kg.) remote radiator pressure valve is now fitted.
Page 88 Filler cap AHH5904 Hose-neck to valve AHH5905 Pressure valve AHH5903 Screw-valve to bracket PMZ0308 Washer LWZ203 FNZ103 Bracket-valve AHH5906 Screw-bracket to panel HZS0404 Washer LWZ204 FNZ104 Overflow pipe AHH5907 Clip PCR0607 Screw PMZ0306 Plain washer PWZ103 Spring washer LWZ203 FNZ103 ©2018 morrisgarages.ch...
Page 89: The Cooling System Components
THE COOLING SYSTEM COMPONENTS KEY TO THE COOLING SYSTEM COMPONENTS 1. Block assembly-radiator. 23. Washer for screw (spring). 45. Clip for hose. ©2018 morrisgarages.ch...
Page 90 2. Tap-drain. 24. Cap-header tank. 46. Bracket for header tank. 3. Washer for tap. 25. Pipe-overflow 47. Screw (fixing). 4. Packing piece-block to body. 26. Connection for overflow pipe. 48. Washer for screw (plain). 5. Screw for block. 27. Clip-pipe to blanking plate. 49.
Page 92: Key To The Carburetter Components
KEY TO THE CARBURETTER COMPONENTS 1. Body (front). 29. Pivot pin. 57. Float-chamber lid (front). 2. Auto-ignition union. 30. Split pin. 58. Filter. 3. Suction chamber and piston 31. Jet link 59. Fibre washer for banjo bolt. assembly. 4. Oil cap damper assembly. 32.
Page 93: Removing The Fuel Tank
85. Pivot bolt for cam. 93. 4 BA bolt. 101. Stop lever (rear). 86. Spring washer for pivot bolt. 94. 4 BA nut. 102. Taper pin for stop lever. 87. Cam. 95. 4 BA washer. 103. Spring for stop adjusting screw. 88.
Page 94: Action Of The Fuel Pump
which is clamped on its rim between the iron coil housing (9) and the main body (17). A bronze rod (10) is screwed through the centre of the armature, to which the diaphragm is attached, and it passes through the magnet core to the contact breaker, which is located at the other end. A volute spring (22) is interposed between the armature and the end plate of the coil to return the armature and diaphragm.
Page 95 parts of the pump together. The action of the valves can then be checked by blowing and sucking in the inlet union to check the suction valve and in the outlet union to check the delivery valve. In the former case it should be possible to blow freely but not to suck air back, and with the latter to suck and not blow.
Page 96 (see Fig. D.2). A lead washer has been found necessary at this point as some few cases of bad connection have been found. Under no circumstances must the spring washer be omitted, or the assembly shortened in any way. Any attempt to do so is likely to lead to breakage of the pedestal when the nut retaining the cover in position is tightened up.
Page 97: Resetting The Diaphragm For Contact Breaker "Throw-Over
D.6 RESETTING THE DIAPHRAGM FOR CONTACT BREAKER "THROW-OVER" If the armature and centre rod have been unscrewed it will be necessary to reset as follows: 1. Swing to one side the spring blade which carries the contact points. 2. Fit the impact washer in the recess of the armature. 3.
Page 98 Fig. D.3 The use of a forked wedge to keep the armature in the correct position for fitting the diaphragm These test rigs can be obtained complete from the Service Parts Department of the S.U. Carburetter Co. or their Distributors. This, therefore, constitutes a simple form of flowmeter which establishes in a simple manner whether the pump is giving a sufficient output or not.
Page 99: D7. Tracing Fuel Pump Troubles
setting. 2. To press firmly and steadily on the armature, instead of jerking it while obtaining the setting. 3. Omission to stretch the diaphragm to the limit of its stroke while tightening up the body screws. D7. TRACING FUEL PUMP TROUBLES Should the pump cease to function, first disconnect the fuel delivery pipe from the pump.
Page 100: Fuel Pump Maintenance
Fig. D.5 The pump filter should be cleaned with a brush every 6,000 miles (10000 km.) Pump noisy If the pump becomes noisy and works rapidly it is usually an indication that there is an air leak on the Suction side of the pump. Check the level of the fuel in the tank and see that it is not too low. The simplest way to test for air leakage is to disconnect the fuel pipe from the carburetter and place its end in a glass jar (approximately 1 pint or half a litre) and allow the pump to deliver fuel into it.
Page 101: Carburetter Adjustments
D.10 CARBURETTER ADJUSTMENTS Slow running is governed by the setting of the jet adjusting nuts and the throttle stop screws, all of which must be correctly set and synchronized if satisfactory results are to be obtained. The two throttles are interconnected by a coupling shaft and coupling clips, enabling them to be set and correctly synchronized when adjustments are being made.
Page 102 Fig. D.7 When connecting the mixture control wire give a twist as indicated to ensure correct operation of the lock Fig. D.8 The arrow indicates the jet adjusting nut With the engine running, set the jet adjusting nut of the rear carburetter so that a mixture strength is obtained which will give the best running speed for this particular throttle opening, taking care to see that the jet head is in firm contact with the adjusting nut the whole time.
Page 103 Fig. D.9 The piston lifting pin When both carburetters are correctly adjusted for mixture set the throttle adjustment screw of each to give the required slow running. Adjust the link between the mixture levers so that each lever is moved the same amount when the mixture control is used.
Page 104: Removing And Replacing The Carburetters
Fig. D.10 With the mixture control right home there should be a small clearance between the adjusting screw (arrowed) and the cam beneath it D.11 REMOVING AND REPLACING THE CARBURETTERS Disconnect the fuel supply pipe and the flexible connecting pipe at the rear carburetter union. Remove the two set screws and spring washers securing each air cleaner and remove the air cleaners.
Page 105: Centering The Jet
Fig. D.11 The carburetter filters should be removed and cleaned with a brush every 6,000 miles (10000 km.) D.12 CENTERING THE JET First remove the clevis pin at the base of the jet which attaches the jet head to the jet operating lever; withdraw the jet completely, and remove the adjusting nut and the adjusting nut spring.
Page 106 suitable clearances to prevent sticking. If sticking does occur the whole assembly should be cleaned carefully, and the piston rod lubricated with a spot of thin oil. No oil must be applied to any other part except the piston rod. A sticking piston can be ascertained by removing the dashpot damper, inserting a finger in the air intake, and lifting the piston, which should come up quite freely and fall back smartly onto its seating when released.
Page 107: Air Cleaners
end of the pipe is directed onto a pad of cloth or into a container. If fuel is delivered, starvation is almost certainly being caused by the float needle sticking to its seating, and the float-chamber lid should therefore be removed and the needle and seating cleaned and refitted.
Page 108: Section E The Clutch
SECTION E THE CLUTCH 11. Anti-rattle spring. Clutch cover, 12. Thrust ring assembly. Pressure plate spring. 13. Retainer. Lever retainer. 14. Driven plate assembly. Eyebolt and nut. 15. Screw over to flywheel Ring (carbon). 16. Spring washer for cover Screw. Pin for lever.
Page 109: General Description
GENERAL DESCRIPTION The clutch is of the single-plate dry-disc type operated hydraulically. Driven plate assembly This consists of a splined hub and flexible steel driven plate (c), to the outer diameter of which are fixed the annular friction facings. This plate is attached to the splined hub by a spring mounting which provides a torsional cushion.
Page 110: Adjustment
Fig. E.2 Compressing the springs with wood blocks and press. A spider securing nut is indicated by the arrow Cover assembly Each release lever is pivoted on a floating pin (1), which remains stationary in the lever and rolls across a short flat portion of the enlarged hole in the eyebolts (K). The outer ends of the eyebolts extend through holes in the clutch cover and are fitted with adjusting nuts (H) by means of which each lever is located in its correct position.
Page 111: Master Cylinder
E.2 MASTER CYLINDER Description The inner assembly of the master cylinder is made up of the push-rod, circlip, dished washer, plunger, end seal, plunger seal, spring thimble, plunger return spring, valve spacer, spring washer, valve stem, and valve seal. The open end of the cylinder is protected by a rubber dust seal. Fig.
Page 112: Slave Cylinder
Replace the valve seal so that the flat side is correctly seated on the valve head. The spring washer should then be located with the domed side against the underside of the valve head, and held in position by the valve spacer, the legs of which face towards the valve seal. Replace the plunger return spring centrally on the spacer, insert the thimble into the spring, and depress until the valve stem engages through the elongated hole of the thimble, ensuring that the stem is correctly located in the centre of the thimble.
Page 113: Bleeding The Clutch System
Examine all parts, especially the seal, and renew if worn or damaged. Fig. E.5 The clutch slave cylinder components 1. Spring 3. Piston. 5. Dust cover. 2. Seal. 4. Body. 6. Circlip Removal Attach a rubber tube to the bleed screw and open the screw three-quarters of a turn. Pump the clutch pedal until all the fluid has been drained into a clean container.
Page 114: Dismantling The Clutch
dowels and the whole assembly lifted from the flywheel. E.6 DISMANTLING THE CLUTCH Two methods are possible in dismantling the clutch: (a) Using the clutch gauging fixture, and (b) Using a press and blocks of wood. Fig. E.6 The clutch dismantled Using the clutch gauging fixture (Fig.
Page 115: Assembling The Clutch
maintained. When a new pressure plate is fitted it is essential that the complete cover and pressure plate assembly be accurately balanced, for which reason it is not a practical proposition to fit new pressure plates unless balancing facilities are available All parts are available for inspection when the cover is lifted off.
Page 116: Refitting The Clutch
Turn the adjusting nuts until the finger just touches each release lever, pressing downwards on the finger assembly to ensure that it is bearing squarely on the adaptor. Remove the finger and the pillar and replace the actuator; operate the actuator several times. Re-check with the finger assembly and make any necessary further adjustments.
Page 117 push-rod and the master cylinder piston, this automatic compensation for wear will always take place. Should there be no free movement at this point, the master cylinder piston will not be allowed to return fully to its stop and therefore the compensating orifice will be cut off. Excessive pedal movement causes coil binding of the springs and imposes an undue load on the bearing and on the crankshaft, causing excessive and rapid bearing wear.
Page 118 Driven plates It is important that neither oil nor grease should contact the clutch facings. Lubrication of the splines of the driven plate is provided at assembly only, when CS881 graphite grease or zinc-based Keenol is used. It is essential to install a complete driven plate assembly when renewal of the friction surfaces is required.
Page 119 Fig. E.9 Checking the setting of the release levers Should oil in small quantities gain access to the clutch and find its way onto the facings, it will be burnt off as a result of the heat generated by the slipping occurring under normal starting conditions. The burning of this Small quantity of lubricant has the effect of gradually darkening the facings, but, provided the polish of the facing remains such that the grain of the material can be distinguished clearly, it has little effect on clutch performance.
Page 120: Service Tools
SERVICE TOOLS 18G99A. Clutch Dismantling, Reassembling and Gauging Fixture With the use of this tool a clutch assembly can be quickly dismantled, rebuilt and finally adjusted with a high degree of accuracy. This is a universal tool for clutch assemblies from 6 ¼ in. to 11 in.
Page 122 Casing-gearbox. Circlip-lever bush. Stud-front cover. Set screw-rear lever. Plug-drain. Spring washer-set screw. Dowel-side cover to gearbox. Key-selector lever. Stud-gearbox extension. Fork-1 and 2 speed. Plug-blanking. Screw-fork locating. Joint washer-blanking plug. Shaft-1 and 2 speed fork. Dust cover-clutch withdrawal lever Ball-shaft. Dipstick.
Page 123 Distance-piece-speedometer 124. Tower-remote control. Nut-shaft and speedometer gear. 125. Dowel-remote control tower. Lock washer. 126. Core plug-tower. Gear-speedometer drive. 127. Lever-change speed. Key-gear. 128. Knob-change speed lever. Pinion-speedometer drive. 129. Locknut change speed lever knob Bush-pinion. 130. Stop plate. Oil seal-pinion. 131.
Page 124: General Description
GENERAL DESCRIPTION The gearbox has four forward speeds and one reverse. Top gear is obtained by direct drive, third and second by gears in constant mesh, and first and reverse by sliding spur gears. A sliding joint of the reverse spline type is fitted to the rear end of the third motion shaft and is lubricated from the gearbox.
Page 125: Dismantling The Third Motion Shaft
F.3 DISMANTLING THE THIRD MOTION SHAFT Remove the following items in this order: baulk ring; synchromesh sleeve and hub; second baulk ring. If the synchromesh sleeve is removed from the hub take care not to lose the three locating balls and springs which will be released in consequence.
Page 126: Assembling The First Motion Shaft
Remove the shaft from the vice and push the bearing into the gear against the circlip. Fit a retaining circlip and follow with the end roller bearing assembly and retaining circlip. Slide the distance tube into the other end of the gear, followed by the other end bearing and circlip. Withdraw the shaft from the gear.
Page 127: Renewing The Gearbox Extension Oil Seal
Fit the layshaft and thrust washers. Line up the cutaway portion of the front end with the layshaft locating groove in the front cover. Fit the reverse gear and shaft; tighten and lock the Set Screw. Refit the front end cover, replacing the bearing shims that were removed on dismantling. Refit the clutch lever and fork.
Page 128: Service Tools
SERVICE TOOLS 18G34A. Flange Wrench This wrench prevents the rotation of the gearbox flange when releasing or tightening the flange securing nut. The pegs of the holding wrench fit into the bolt holes of the flange. 18G222. Synchromesh Unit Assembly Ring-Second Speed Designed to facilitate the assembly of mated synchronizer and sleeve by enabling the springs and balls to be...
Page 129 18G389. Oil Seal Remover (basic tool) This basic tool together with the appropriate adaptor is essential for removing the gearbox extension oil seal easily and without damage to the extension. 18G389B. Oil Seal Remover Adaptor Use with basic tool 18G389. 18G598.
Page 131: Section G The Propeller Shaft
SECTION G THE PROPELLER SHAFT GENERAL DESCRIPTION The propeller shaft and universal joints are of the Hardy Spicer type with needle-roller bearings. A single shaft connects the rear axle and the gearbox. To accommodate fore and aft movement of the axle, a sliding joint of the reverse-spline type is fitted between the gearbox and the front universal joint flange.
Page 132: Removing The Propeller Shaft
Fig. G.2 When dismantling a universal joint, the bearings may be tapped out with a small-diameter rod from the inside as shown. Take care not to damage the roller races G.3 REMOVING THE PROPELLER SHAFT Before removing the bolts and nuts securing the propeller shaft universal joint flange to the rear axle flange, carefully mark the flanges to assist in refitting them in their original positions.
Page 133 Fig. G.3 Showing the manner of withdrawing the needle bearing after it has been partly withdrawn. When bearings are removed or replaced they should be held vertically to prevent the needle bearings from being displaced Fig. G.4 When the needle roller bearings have been withdrawn from opposite sides of the spider, the joint can be separated as shown ©2018 morrisgarages.ch...
Page 134: To Examine And Check For Wear
G.5 TO EXAMINE AND CHECK FOR WEAR The parts most likely to show signs of wear after long usage are the bearing races and the spider journals. Should looseness, load markings, or distortion be observed, the affected part must be renewed complete;...
Page 135: Modified Propeller Shaft
Fig. G.6 When the splined shaft is assembled to the drive shaft it is essential to see that the forked yokes on both shafts have their axes parallel to each other. In other words, the yoke (A) must be in alignment with the yoke (B), and the flange yoke (c) must be in alignment with the flange yoke (D) G.8 MODIFIED PROPELLER SHAFT Coincident with the introduction of the modified power unit (15GD series) described in Section A.44, a...
Page 137: Key To The Rear Axle Components
KEY TO THE REAR AXLE COMPONENTS 1. Axle centre case. 29. Oil seal. 2. Serrated bolt. 30. Dust Cover 3. Breather. 31. Pinion bearing shim. 4. Filler plug 32. Flange. 5. Drain Plug 33. Spring washer. 6. Plain washer. 34. Nut. 7.
Page 138: General Description
GENERAL DESCRIPTION The rear axle is of the three-quarter-floating type, incorporating hypoid final reduction gears. The axle shafts, pinion, and differential assemblies can be withdrawn without removing the axle from the vehicle. The rear axle wheel bearing outer races are located in the hubs; the inner races are mounted on the axle tube and secured by nuts and lock washers.
Page 139: Removing And Replacing A Hub Extension And Axle Shaft
and refill with new. The capacity of the axle is 23 pints (3-3 U.S. pints, 1-56 litres). The hub bearings are lubricated from the axle and no provision is made for any other attention. H.1 REMOVING AND REPLACING A HUB EXTENSION AND AXLE SHAFT Jack up the car and place blocks under the spring as close as possible to the axle.
Page 140: Renewing The Bevel Pinion Oil Seal
The bearing is not adjustable and is replaced in one straightforward operation. Replace the hub and drift it into position with replacer 18G134 and adaptor 18G134P. The remainder is a reversal of the above sequence of operations. Fig. H.3 Using service tool 18G47C and adaptors 18G477 to remove the differential bearings H.3 RENEWING THE BEVEL PINION OIL SEAL Mark the propeller shaft and the pinion driving flanges so that they may be replaced in the same relative positions.
Page 141: Replacing The Differential Pinions
and it must be tapped out from the crown wheel side as the hole into which it fits has a slightly smaller diameter at the crown wheel end to prevent the pin from passing right through. It may be necessary to clean out the metal peened over the entry hole with a 3/16in.
Page 142: Assembling And Setting The Crown Wheel And Pinion
Fig. H.4 Both front and rear bearing outer races may be removed, using service tool 18G264 with adaptors 18G264E and 18G 264F H.7 ASSEMBLING AND SETTING THE CROWN WHEEL AND PINION Apart from the fitting of components as detailed in Sections H.2, H.3, and H.5 it is not permissible to fit any new parts (e.g.
Page 143 Fig. H.5 Using service tool 18G285 to remove the bevel pinion A. SETTING THE PINION POSITION 1. Fit the bearing outer races to the gear carrier, using the special pinion race replacing tool. 2. Smooth off the pinion head with an oil-stone but do not erase any markings that may be etched on the pinion head.
Page 144 Example: Clock reading -.002 in. Pinion marking -.005 in. Variation from nominal -.007 in. Reduce the washer thickness by this amount. Fig. H.6 Setting the gauge to zero on the special block for determination of the pinion position. The arrow indicates the extension to the contact foot ©2018 morrisgarages.ch...
Page 145 Fig. H.7 The gauge in position on the pinion with the dial indicating a variation from the standard setting b. If the clock reading is plus and numerically less than the pinion marking, reduce the washer thickness by the difference. Example: Clock reading -.005 in.
Page 146 Example: Clock reading +.008 in. Pinion marking -.003 in. Variation from nominal +.005 in. Increase the washer thickness by this amount. Table of washer and shim thicknesses Pinion head washer thickness .112 to .126 in. in steps of .002 in. Pinion bearing preload shims .004 to .012 in.
Page 147 C. SETTING THE CROWN WHEEL POSITION (1) Before fitting the crown wheel and differential assembly to the gear carrier it is necessary to calculate the shim thickness required behind each bearing to give the required pinch. To facilitate the calculation machining variations are indicated by stamped numbers on the carrier adjacent to the bearing bores.
Page 148 Fig. H.8 The dimensions referred to in the instructions for differential setting Fig. H.9 To measure variations in bearing thickness first zero the gauge on the portion of the gauge block marked 'B' for the "MGA' axles ©2018 morrisgarages.ch...
Page 149 Fig. H.10 Crown wheel and pinion markings D. ADJUSTING THE BACKLASH Assemble the bearings (thrust side outwards) and shims as calculated to the differential cage. Bolt the crown wheel to the differential cage, but do not knock over the locking tabs. Tighten the nuts to a torque Wrench reading of 60 lb.
Page 150 The correct figure for the backlash to be used with any particular crown wheel and pinion is etched on the rear face of the crown wheel concerned and must be adhered to strictly. A movement of-002 in. (-05 mm.) shim thickness from one side of the differential to the other will produce a variation in backlash of approximately -002 in.
Page 151: Removing And Refitting The Axle
Fig. H.12 Measuring the crown wheel backlash H.8 REMOVING AND REFITTING THE AXLE Raise the rear of the car. Mark the propeller shaft coupling flanges so that they may be replaced in the original relative positions. Remove the four bolts and self-locking nuts and release the rear end of the propeller shaft from the axle.
Page 152 clamp plate. Unscrew the brake fluid supply pipe union and release the flexible pipe from the battery box support bracket. Release the exhaust pipe from the exhaust manifold and the three supporting brackets and remove the exhaust pipe assembly. Remove the nut and spring washer from the spring front anchor pin. Support the axle casing and remove the rear shackle plates, brackets, and rubbers.
Page 154: Service Tools
SERVICE TOOLS 18G34A. Bevel Pinion Flange Wrench This wrench prevents the rotation of the bevel pinion flange when releasing or tightening the flange securing nut. The pegs of the holding wrench fit into the bolt holes of the flange. 18G47C. Differential Bearing Remover (basic tool) This standardized basic tool used in conjunction with...
Page 155 18G134P. Rear Hub Bearing Remover, Differential Bearing Replacer, and Rear Hub Assembly Replacer Adaptor Use with handle 18G134. 18G191B. Bevel Pinion and Differential Bearing Setting Gauge. Correct assembly and adjustment of the pinion and differential gear is impossible without this special tool. 18G264.
Page 156 18G152. Rear Hub Nut Spanner A reinforced tubular spanner complete with tommy bar, designed to pilot in the axle tube with the axle shaft withdrawn. 18G207. Bevel Pinion Bearing Preload Gauge The movable arms of the tool are located in opposite holes of the bevel pinion flange and the weight moved along the rod to the poundage required.
Page 157 18G304J. Thrust Pad 18G372. Torque Wrench This tool is essential if the recommended maximum torque for the bevel pinion flange securing nut is not to be exceeded. This tool is used with a standard-type socket and in conjunction with the flange holding wrench 18G34A.s 18G264E.
Page 159: Key The Steering Gear
KEY THE STEERING GEAR 1. Rack housing assembly 21. Thrust washer for lower pinion. 41. Nut-rack to bracket (rear). (R.H.D.). 2. Pinion shaft seal. 22. Pinion tail bearing. 42. Spring washer-rack to bracket. 3. Steering rack 23. Shim for tail bearing (.005 in.). 43.
Page 160: General Description
61. Spring washer-lower bracket to 71. Blanking plate. 81. Spring cover clamp. 62. Steering column bracket 72. Column tube (outer). 82. Cup for spring cover. (upper). 63. Screw-bracket to body rail. 73. Bush (upper). 83. Tube assembly (inner). 64. Plain washer. 74.
Page 161: Removing The Steering Column
as possible. Contract the plated helical sleeve and clamp collar towards the steering wheel and extract the key which engages the splined shaft. Withdraw the steering wheel and column extension. J.2 REMOVING THE STEERING COLUMN Withdraw the clamping bolt and nut securing the universal joint to the steering mast. Remove the nuts and clamp plate to release the draught-excluding rubber from the toeboard at the lower end of the column.
Page 162: Removing And Replacing The Steering Gearbox
the yoke, tap the bearings into position. It is essential that the bearing races are a light drive fit in the yoke trunnions. Repeat this operation for the other bearings and replace the circlips, making sure that they are firmly located in their grooves.
Page 163: Reassembling The Steering Gear
Withdraw the pinion tail bearing and shims and the pinion bottom thrust washer, placing a container to catch any oil that may drain from the steering rack. The top thrust washer will remain trapped behind the steering rack. Unlock the tie-rod ball-end locknuts and remove the ball-end assemblies. Release the rubber gaiter seal clips and remove the seals.
Page 164: Steering Column Alignment
Fig.J.2 Steering column alignment J.9 STEERING COLUMN ALIGNMENT When assembling the steering column or steering gearbox assembly to the car care must be taken to ensure a free condition at the universal joint before the column or gearbox securing bolts are tightened.
Page 165: Checking And Adjusting Front Wheel Alignment
J.10 CHECKING AND ADJUSTING FRONT WHEEL ALIGNMENT When checking the track width at the front and the rear of the front wheels use a suitable trammel or any special proprietary alignment gauge available. The wheels should run parallel and have no toe-in. See that the tyres are inflated to the correct pressures.
Page 166: Fitting An Adjustable Steering Column
J.11 FITTING AN ADJUSTABLE STEERING COLUMN Remove the steering wheel as detailed in Section J.1. Remove the steering column assembly as detailed in Section J.2. Fit the steering column to the car and tighten the clamp bolts. Fit the steering wheel, locating it on the splines to bring the centre-line of the spokes horizontal when the road wheels are in the straight-ahead position.
Page 168: Key To The Front Suspension Components
KEY TO THE FRONT SUSPENSION COMPONENTS 1. Steering knuckle-L/H. 24. Disc--brake. 54. Wishbone pivot. 2. Swivel pin-L/H. 33. Spring pan assembly. 55. Bolt-pivot to member. 3. Link-swivel pin-upper L/H. 34. Bottom wishbone assembly. 56. Nut-pivot to member bolt. 4. Link-swivel pin—lower-L/H. 35.
Page 169: Removing The Front Suspension
The inner mountings of the lower wishbones are fitted with flexing rubber bearings which require no lubrication and form a silent and resilient connection to the box section chassis frame cross-member. The steering swivel pins are of a special design, with the top and bottom bearings threaded to provide large areas and absorb both thrust and journal loads.
Page 170: Dismantling The Swivel Pins
Remove the split pins, nuts, and washers from the ends of the inner lower fulcrum pin and slide off the levers and the rubber bushes. Remove the bolts holding the lower fulcrum pins to the chassis cross-member. Remove the nuts from the studs securing the hydraulic dampers to the top of the suspension cross- member.
Page 171: Reassembling The Swivel Pins
Fig. K.2 A section of the front hub and brake disc. The brake unit is shown out of position for clarity K.4 REASSEMBLING THE SWIVEL PINS The swivel pin assembly may be reassembled without difficulty by carrying out the removal instructions in the reverse order, provided the following points are given special attention: 1.
Page 172: Replacing The Front Suspension
K.5 REPLACING THE FRONT SUSPENSION Bolt up the coil spring top locating plates inside the front cross-member. Replace the hydraulic dampers. The dampers are interchangeable from side to side. Bolt up the lower fulcrum pins. The two front outer bolts have their nuts uppermost and the six other bolts have their nuts below.
Page 173: Removing And Dismantling A Front Hub
K.6 REMOVING AND DISMANTLING A FRONT HUB Apply the hand brake and raise the front of the car until the wheel to be operated on is clear of the ground. Remove the wheel. Remove the wheel brake unit as detailed in Section M.7. Withdraw the grease retainer by applying a suitable extractor (service tool 18G568) to the thread on the cap.
Page 174: Removing And Replacing The Front Coil Spring
70 lb. ft. (5.33 to 9.68 kg, m.). Latitude for the torque Wrench reading is given so that the nut can be tightened sufficiently to align a castellation with the stub axle split pin hole. Insert a new split pin. Fig.
Page 175: Fitting New Rubber Bushes
Fig. K.4 The correct method of clamping the rubber bushes of the lower suspension arm Fig. K.5 The dimensions of the lower wishbone bushes when in new condition Lubricate these parts and the fulcrum pins during and after assembly. Smear each end of the coil spring with grease and ensure that the upper end of the spring is correctly located.
Page 176: Anti-Roll Bar Assembly
Remove the coil springs as detailed in Section K.9. Remove the four bolts holding the spring pan to the levers. Remove the cotters, nuts, and washers from the ends of the inner lower fulcrum pin and slide off the levers and the rubber bushes. Fit the new rubber bushes into the levers.
Page 177: Service Tools
ensure that the washers on the bar are interposed between the locating plates and the flange on the bushes. Secure the bush housings to the extension with the four 5/16 in. bolts, spring washers, and nuts. Refit the front extension to the chassis and secure the body to the body plates on the extension. Fit the fork end of the left-hand link and the righthand link to the appropriate ends of the anti-roll bar, insert a 7/16 in.
Page 178: The Anti-Roll Bar Equipment Components
K.10 THE ANTI-ROLL BAR EQUIPMENT COMPONENTS 70. Link 76. Nut. 71. Nut. 77. Plain washer, 72. Spring washer, 78. Bush. 73. Anti-roll bar, 79. Housing 74. Bush. 80. Screw 75. Bolt. 81. Nut. 82. Spring washer ©2018 morrisgarages.ch...
Page 179: Section L The Hydraulic Dampers
SECTION L THE HYDRAULIC DAMPERS MAINTENANCE The maintenance of the hydraulic dampers, when in position on the vehicle, is confined to examination for leakage and examination of the anchorage to the chassis to ensure that the fixing bolts are tight. No adjustment of the hydraulic dampers is required or provided.
Page 180: Removing A Front Damper
L.3 REMOVING A FRONT DAMPER Jack up the car under the lower wishbone spring pan until the wheel is clear of the ground. Remove the wheel and take out the swivel pin top pivot bolt. Swing out the hub unit clear of the upper wishbone and support it on a suitable stand to prevent straining the brake hose.
Page 181: Section M The Braking System
SECTION M THE BRAKING SYSTEM GENERAL DESCRIPTION The braking system consists of four Dunlop calliper type disc brakes hydraulically controlled by means of a foot-operated master cylinder Steel pipe lines, unions, and flexible hoses convey the hydraulic pressure from the master cylinder to each.
Page 182: Maintenance
Fig. M.1 Periodically examine the quantity of fluid in the brake master cylinder reservoir (arrow 1). The clutch master cylinder reservoir is indicated by arrow 2 When a load is applied to the foot pedal the piston moves down the cylinder against the compression of the main spring.
Page 183: Priming And Bleeding The Brake System (Expelling Air)
position the piston should be held against the dished washer at the head of the master cylinder unit by the pressure of the piston return spring, thus forming a return stop, and a free axial movement of approximately .015 to .020 in. (.381 to .508 mm.) should be felt at the master cylinder push-rod. If necessary, the effective length of the push-rod should be reset to this figure, M.2 PRIMING AND BLEEDING THE BRAKE SYSTEM (Expelling Air) The following procedure should be adopted either for initial priming of the system or to bleed in service...
Page 184: Dismantling The Master Cylinder
Fig. M.2 The brake master cylinder components 1. Reservoir. 11. Return spring. 2. Cover. 12. Spring support. 3. Cork gasket. 13. Valve. 4. Filler cap. 14. Spring support. 5. Push-rod. 15. Valve spring 6. Dished washer. 16. Seal. 7. Dust excluder, 17.
Page 185: Replacing The Master Cylinder
traces of petrol (gasoline), paraffin (kerosene), or trichlorethylene used for cleaning the metal parts must be removed before assembly. Examine all the rubber parts for damage or distortion. It is usually advisable to renew the rubbers when rebuilding the cylinder. Dip all the internal parts in brake fluid and assemble them wet. Fit the valve seal around the seal bush and the 'O' ring in the groove on the piston.
Page 186: Dismantling A Brake Unit
Unscrew the fluid supply pipe union (below the inner cylinder block) and disconnect and blank off the pipe. Remove the split pin and clevis pin from the hand brake cable yoke to disconnect the cable from the calliper lever. Tap back the tab washers and unscrew the two set screws securing the calliper to the mounting flange on the axle.
Page 187: Assembling A Brake Unit
Fig. M.5 Sectioned view of a brake calliper Remove the bolts securing the cylinder blocks to the calliper and withdraw the cylinder blocks. Disengage the dust seal from the lip on the cylinder block face, connect the cylinder to a source of fluid supply, and apply pressure to eject the piston assembly.
Page 188: Replacing A Brake Unit
1. Calliper. 8. Backing plate. 15. Spring washer. 2. Cylinder block. 9. Dust seal. 16. Retractor stop bush. 3. Cylinder block, 10. Piston. 17. Retractor pin. 4. Bridge pipe. 11. Piston seal. 18. Bleed screw. 5. Keep plate. 12. Retractor bush. 19.
Page 189: Relining The Hand Brake
must be renewed. Use service tool 18G553 to press the piston assemblies to the base of the cylinder bores against the resistance offered by the retractor pin and bush. Insert the new friction pad assemblies, replace the keep plate, and secure it with the bolt, washer, and nut. M.13 RELINING THE HAND BRAKE Unscrew and remove the adjuster bolt and locknut and swing the pad carriers away from the disc.
Page 190: Removing The Hand Brake Cable
Fig. M.8 When replacing a hand brake friction pad place the lever against the inner carrier in the position shown. Hold the locknut against the trunnion and screw in the adjuster bolt three or four threads Raise the rear of the car-making certain that the front wheels are suitably blocked to prevent the car running forward-and remove both rear wheels.
Page 191: Flexible Hoses
Replace the brake unit as detailed in Section M.10. M.18 FLEXIBLE HOSES The flexible pipes must show no signs of deterioration or damage and the bores should be cleared with a jet of compressed air. No attempt should be made to clear a blockage by probing as this may result in damage to the lining and serious restriction to fluid flow.
Page 192: Service Tool
Fig. M.10 The arrow indicates the hand brake carrier pad adjusting bolt Removing a rear hose The front end of the rear flexible hose is held in a bracket mounted on the right-hand battery box. Unscrew the metal pipe union nut and release the pipe. Hold the hexagon on the flexible hose with a spanner and remove the large retaining nut and its shake-proof washer from the underside of the support bracket.
Page 193: Section N. Electrical Equipment
SECTION N. ELECTRICAL EQUIPMENT GENERAL DESCRIPTION The 12-volt electrical equipment incorporates compensated voltage control for the charging circuit. The positive earth system of wiring is employed. The two 6-volt batteries, mounted to the rear of the seats, are accessible for examination and maintenance attention.
Page 194 After examining the battery, check the vent plugs, making sure that the air passages are clear. Storage If a battery is to be out of use for any length of time, it should first be fully charged and then given a freshening charge about every fortnight.
Page 195: Dynamo
carefully check the specific gravity in each cell to ensure that it lies within the limits specified. If any cell requires adjustment, the electrolyte above the plates must be siphoned off and replaced either with acid of the strength used for the original filling in, or distilled water, according to whether the specific gravity is too low or too high respectively.
Page 196: Removing And Replacing The Dynamo
If the dynamo is in good order, leave the temporary link in position between the terminals and restore the original connections, taking care to connect the dynamo terminal 'D' to the control box terminal 'D' and the dynamo terminal 'F' to the control box terminal 'F'. Remove the lead from the 'D' terminal on the control box and connect the voltmeter between this cable and a good earthing point on the vehicle.
Page 197 commutator with a petrol-moistened cloth. If this is ineffective, carefully polish with a strip of fine glass- paper while rotating the armature. To remedy a badly worn commutator, mount the armature (with or without the drive end bracket) in a lathe, rotate at high speed and take a light cut with a very sharp tool.
Page 198 the armature core or to true a distorted armature shaft. Bearings Bearings which are worn to such an extent that they will allow side movement of the armature shaft must be replaced by new ones. To fit a new bearing at the commutator end of the dynamo proceed as follows: Press the bearing bush out of the commutator end bracket.
Page 199: The Starter
N.6 THE STARTER To test on vehicle Switch on the lamps and operate the starter control. If the lights go dim, but the starter is not heard to operate, an indication is given that current is flowing through the starter windings but that the starter pinion is meshed permanently with the geared ring on the flywheel.
Page 200 place by soldering. The brushes are pre-formed, so that bedding of the working face to the commutator is unnecessary. Fig. N.5. An exploded view of the starter and drive. Fig. N.6. An expander in use for fitting pole shoes. Drive If the pinion is tight on the sleeve, wash in paraffin;...
Page 201: The Control Box
retaining ring “ L.” Note-Should either the control nut or screwed sleeve be damaged, a replacement assembly, consisting of a screwed sleeve and control nut, must be fitted. These components must not be fitted individually. Commutator A commutator in good condition will be smooth and free from pits and burned spots. Clean the commutator with a cloth moistened with petrol.
Page 202 Fig. N.7 Mechanical regulator adjustment It is important, before altering the regulator setting, when the battery is in a low state of charge, to check that its condition is not due to a battery defect or to the dynamo belt slipping. How to check and adjust electrical setting The regulator setting can be checked without removing the cover of the control box.
Page 203 Mechanical setting The mechanical setting of the regulator is accurately adjusted before leaving the Works, and provided that the armature carrying the moving contact is not removed, the regulator will not require mechanical adjustment. If, however, the armature has been removed from the regulator for any reason, the contacts will have to be reset.
Page 204: Fuses
Fig. N.8 The cut-out and regulator assemblY Cleaning To clean the contacts, remove the cover, place a strip of fine glass-paper between the contacts and then, closing the contacts by hand, draw the paper through. This should be done two or three times, with the rough side towards each contact.
Page 205: The Windshield Wiper
flasher lights now work, the flasher unit is defective and must be renewed. If the lights do not work the relay is defective and must be renewed. The length of time the flasher is operating can be altered by screwing up the adjusting screw located in the small boss at the back of the time switch.
Page 206 Fig. N.9 The fuses and flasher unit Fig. N.10 A windshield wiper arm and drive Motor operates but does not transmit motion to spindles Remove the cover of the gearbox. A push-pull motion should be transmitted to the inner cable of the flexible rack.
Page 207: The Headlamps
Fig. N.11 A light unit N.14 THE HEADLAMPS The headlamps are built into the wings and are fitted with double-filament bulbs. The design is such that the bulb is correctly positioned in relation to the reflector, and no focusing is required when a replacement bulb is fitted.
Page 208: Replacing Headlamp Bulbs
Vertical adjustment can then be made by turning the screws at the top of the lamp in the necessary direction. Horizontal adjustment can be effected by using the adjustment screws on each side of the light unit. (See Fig. N.12.) N.18 REPLACING HEADLAMP BULBS Twist the back shell anti-clockwise and pull it off, Withdraw the bulb from the holder.
Page 209: Replacing The Light Units
Fig. N.13 Sidelamp bulb removal N.19 REPLACING THE LIGHT UNITS Position the light unit so that the heads of the adjusting screws coincide with the enlarged ends of the attachment slots. Push the light unit towards the wing to compress the springs and turn the unit to the right as far as it will go, that is, approximately ½...
Page 210: The Panel And Warning Lights
N.24 THE PANEL AND WARNING LIGHTS The locations of the lamps illuminating the instruments and the warning lights are shown by arrows on the illustrations on page N.15. The bulbs are accessible from below the instrument panel. Fig. N. 14. The number-plate lamp. ©2018 morrisgarages.ch...
Page 213: Key To Wiring Colours
KEY TO WIRING COLOURS 1. Blue 25. Yellow 49. Purple 2. Blue with Red 26. Yellow with Red 50. Purple with Red 3. Blue with Yellow 27. Yellow with Blue 51. Purple with Yellow 4. Blue with White 28. Yellow with White 52.
Page 214: Fitting A Fog Lamp
Number-plate illumination lamp 2H4817 Panel lamps 2H4732 N.26 FITTING A FOG LAMP A fog lamp is not fitted as standard equipment but can be supplied as an optional extra. The necessary wiring together with the switch (marked 'F' on the instrument panel) is already provided to accommodate the fitment.
Page 215: Charging Circuit
batteries are exhausted. This, in turn, may be due to the dynamo failing to charge the batteries, and the final cause of the trouble may be, perhaps, a loose connection in some part of the charging circuit. If, after carrying out an examination, the cause of the trouble is not found, the equipment should be checked by the nearest Lucas Service Depot or Agent.
Page 216: Lighting Circuits
If the engine can be turned by hand, first check that the trouble is not due to a discharged battery. Examine the connections to the batteries, starter and starter switch, making sure that they are tight and that the cables connecting these units are not damaged. It is also possible that the starter pinion may have jammed in mesh with the flywheel, although this is by no means a common occurrence.
Page 217: Headlamp Beam Setting
The voltmeter readings should be within the limits given below at approximately 1,500 dynamo RPM Setting at 10° C. (50°F.) ...15.9 to 16.5 volts Setting at 20° C. (68°F). 15.6 to 16.2 volts Setting at 30° C. (86°F). 15.4 to 16.0 volts Setting at 40°...
Page 218: Modified European Light Unit
Filling the cells with electrolyte of the correct specific gravity (see Initial filling and charging of Section N.1) in one operation renders the battery capable of giving a starting discharge one hour after filling. The temperature of the filling-in solution, battery, and filling room should be maintained between 60° F. (16°...
Page 221: Key To Wiring Diagram (R.h.d., And L.h.d.)
KEY TO WIRING DIAGRAM (R.H.D., AND L.H.D.) 1 Dipper switch. 21 Heater switch (when fitted). 2 Horn. 22 Heater motor. 3 Fuse unit, 23 Fuel gauge. 4 Twin wind tone horns (if fitted) 24 Fuel tank unit. 5 Horn-push, 25 Flasher unit. 6 Panel lamp rheostat 26 L.H.
Page 222: Nn.1 Front Pilot And Flashing Indicator Lamps
NN.1 FRONT PILOT AND FLASHING INDICATOR LAMPS To gain access to the front pilot and flashing indicator bulbs press the front of the lamp inwards and turn it in a clockwise direction. Both bulbs have single filaments and may be replaced either way round. Fig.
Page 223: Nn.4 Headlamps
NN.4 HEADLAMPS From Car No. 70222 Mk. VIII headlamps with sealed beam units (Part No. BHA4144) were fitted to cars exported to U.S.A. From Car No. 72040 cars exported to Sweden have special headlamps with asymmetrical left dip (Part No. BMK391). These are interchangeable with earlier types in pairs only. NN.5 LUCAS C4011 DYNAMO A later type of dynamo with increased output, Lucas type C40/1, was introduced, complete with Lucar connectors, modified Lucas type RB106/2 control box, and a new-type ignition coil bracket.
Page 224 from the control box terminals 'A' and 'Al', and join these cables together. Connect the voltmeter between terminal "A1" and earth; start the engine and run up to speed. Decelerate the engine slowly and watch the voltmeter pointer, which will return to zero immediately the contact points open.
Page 225: Nn.7 Servicing A C40/1 Dynamo
1. Regulator adjusting screw. 2. Cut-out adjusting Screw. Fig. NN.2 The C40/1 dynamo NN.7 SERVICING A C40/1 DYNAMO The instructions for servicing the dynamos are generally the same as given in Section N.5, with the following exceptions. Brushes The minimum permissible length of a worn brush is ¼ in. (7.14 mm.). Badly worn brushes must be renewed, and the new brushes bedded to the commutator.
Page 226: Nn.9 Mk. Ii Sealed-Beam Headlamps
Connect the negative lead of the voltmeter to the control box terminal 'D' and connect the other lead to the terminal 'E'. Run the dynamo at 3,000 RPM., and watch the voltmeter reading, which should be between the limits given below, according to the ambient temperatures. NN.9 Mk.
Page 227: Section O The Wheels, Tyres, And Jacking
SECTION O THE WHEELS, TYRES, AND JACKING Fig. O.1 Change the position of the tyres in the order shown GENERAL The spare wheel is housed in the luggage compartment and clamped in position beneath the cover. Remember that the spare wheel tyre pressure should be maintained at the correct running pressure for the rear wheels.
Page 228: Jacking Up The Car
O.2 JACKING UP THE CAR When jacking a front wheel, the jack pad should be engaged in the depression in the lower suspension arm spring seating. At the rear the jack should be placed below the rear spring centre plate or under the spring as close to the axle as possible.
Page 229: Valves
Fig. O.3 Removing a winged hub nut O.4 VALVES Valve caps, in addition to preventing dirt from entering the valve, form a secondary air seal and should always be fitted. The valves may be tested for airtightness by rotating the wheel until the valve is at the top and inserting its end in an eggcup full of water.
Page 230: The Importance Of Balance
Fig O.4 The use of a tyre lever to ease the fire head from the wheel rim O.6 THE IMPORTANCE OF BALANCE In order to obtain good steering, it is of importance to ensure that the wheels, with tyres fitted, are in good balance.
Page 231 Fig. O.5 Pushing the tyre bead into the well Apply a frothy solution of soap and water generously around the centre base of the tube, extending upwards between the tyre beads and the tube itself for at least 2 in. (50.8 mm.) on both sides. Also apply the solution to the bottom and outside of the tyre beads.
Page 234: Section P Lubrication
SECTION P LUBRICATION Correct lubrication of any piece of mechanism is of paramount importance, and in no instance is it of greater importance than in the correct choice of lubricant for a motor-car engine. Automobile engines have different characteristics, such as operating temperatures, oiling systems, size of oilways, clearances, and similar technicalities, and the use of the correct oil is therefore essential.
Page 235: Daily Service
P.1 DAILY SERVICE ENGINE (A) Inspect the oil level in the engine, and refill if necessary to the *MAX' mark on the dipstick. The oil filler cap is on top of the exhaust camshaft cover and is released by turning it anti- clockwise.
Page 236 Fig. P.2 The universal joint and sliding yoke lubrication nipples at the front end of the propeller shaft Fig. P.3 The rear universal joint lubrication nipple ©2018 morrisgarages.ch...
Page 237: 3,000 Miles (4800 Km.) Service
NOTE. -It is essential that only Hypoid oil be used in the rear axle CARBURETTER DAMPERS (D) Unscrew the oil cap at the top of each suction chamber, pour in a small quantity of thin engine oil, and replace the caps. Under no circumstances should a heavy-bodied lubricant be used. Failure to lubricate the piston dampers will cause the pistons to flutter and reduce acceleration.
Page 238 Fig. P.5 The hand brake cable grease nipple Fig. P.6 The engine sump drain plug is on the right-hand side ©2018 morrisgarages.ch...
Page 239: 6,000 Miles (9600 Km.) Service
AIR CLEANERS (A) Wash the filter elements in petrol and allow to dry. Re-oil the elements with S.A.E. 20 engine oil and allow to drain before reassembling. It is only necessary to withdraw the two hexagon headed screws and lift off the outer cover to release each corrugated element.
Page 240 Add a spot of engine oil (Ref. D) to the moving contact pivot pin. Fig. P.8 Add a few drops of thin engine oil to the cam bearing (lower arrow) and lightly smear the cam (upper arrow) with a small amount of grease Fig.
Page 241 B) to the level of the filler plug hole. There is a clearance between the screw and the inner face of the spindle for the oil to pass. Replace the rotor with its drive lug correctly engaging the spindle slot and push it onto the shaft as far as it will go.
Page 242 Fig. P.11 Unscrew the hub nut and withdraw the grease-retaining cap to repack the hub with grease Fig. P.12 The arrow indicates the water pump oil nipple, which must receive one stroke only from the oil gun ©2018 morrisgarages.ch...
Page 243: 12,000 Miles (19200 Km.) Service
Fig. P.13 The steering-rack oil nipples which must receive attention WATER PUMP Give the nipple on the water pump body one stroke only with the gun filled with S.A.E. 140 oil. The oiling of the pump must be done very sparingly, otherwise oil will flow past the bearings onto the face of the carbon sealing ring and impair its efficiency.
Page 244 SPEEDOMETER AND TACHOMETER CABLES (C) Unscrew the speedometer and tachometer drive cable outer casings from the instrument heads. Extract their inner cables and lubricate sparingly with grease to Ref. C. oil must not be used. After replacing each cable in its outer casing withdraw the upper end approximately 8 in. (20 cm.) and wipe off the surface grease before reconnecting it to the instrument head.
Page 245: Section R The Chassis
SECTION R THE CHASSIS GENERAL DESCRIPTION This section deals with the repair of the M.G. type of box-sectioned chassis frame damaged in accident, where the facilities as used by frame manufacturers are not available. The manufacturers, naturally, have the benefit of their production equipment, but the methods adopted by them, particularly in regard to the use of assembly jigs and welding equipment, are out of reach of the average repair organization.
Page 246: Investigation Of Damaged Chassis
An important point to observe here, prior to commencing repairs, is in regard to the front suspension cross-member. Correct alignment of the front suspension is of such vital importance that if there is appreciable distortion of this member it should be renewed, due to the fact that it is a very difficult operation to re-form it to its exact shape.
Page 247 Fig. R.1 Chassis frame dimensions and the recommended triangulation points for a diagonal check ©2018 morrisgarages.ch...
Page 248: Diagonal Frame Check
R.4 DIAGONAL FRAME CHECK (Complete Car) In checking the frame for distortion, diagonal measurements may be taken without removing the body from the chassis by using a plumb-bob as follows. Place the car on a level surface and block up the car equally at each wheel approximately 12 in. (30 cm.) high with all tyres properly inflated.
Page 249: Section S The Body
SECTION S THE BODY Fig. 5.1 Withdrawing a door lock S.1 REMOVING A DOOR LOCK Take out the three securing screws and remove the sidescreen clamp plate. Unscrew the 10 recessed-headed screws securing the trim panel to the door. Lower the trim panel downwards to free it from the lipped rail along the bottom edge of the pocket.
Page 250: Removing The Rear Bumper
The bumper may now be withdrawn forward from the brackets. One bolt secures each over-rider to the bumper. Unscrew the bolt and the over-rider will become detached. S.4 REMOVING THE REAR BUMPER The rear bumper is secured to two mounting brackets attached to the rear of the frame. Remove the two bumper securing nuts and spring and plain washers.
Page 251: Removing The Body
S.8 REMOVING THE BODY The following items must be disconnected or dismantled when removing the body. Wiring Disconnect the positive lead from the battery, Disconnect the horn wires and the wires from the dynamo and 'SW' connection on the coil. Disconnect the low-tension lead from the starter solenoid and finally the snap connectors situated at the rear of the front wheel arch.
Page 252: Fitting The Optional Heating And Demisting Equipment
forward to disengage it from the two remaining front bumper mounting brackets which protrude through the body. Before replacing the body by reversing the dismantling procedure ensure that the laminated cork on each body mounting point is in good condition and squarely mounted; also check the rubber strips along the chassis longitudinal members, the engine bulkhead crossmember, and the cross-member forward of the battery box.
Page 253 Fig. 5.2 Components of the M.G. (Series MGA Twin Cam) heater kit fired in position Jack up and support the front of the vehicle, and remove the right-hand front wheel. Fit the copper return pipe and union (11) and joint washer (28) to the threaded hole in the water return casting,...
Page 254 Secure the pipe by tightening the union firmly. Fit the two clips (18) to the oil filter pipe and fasten them to the clips on the copper return pipe using two screws (21), two washers (26), and two nuts (24). Connect the heater outlet to the copper return pipe with the short rubber water hose (12) and secure at both ends with two clips (32).
Page 255: Cold Air Ventilation Equipment
Copper pipe and union assembly (inlet) AHH5843 Copper pipe and union assembly (outlet) AHH5844 Water hose-12 ½ in. long AHH5437 Water hose-25 in. long BHA4089 Tube demist AHH5426 Trunnion 14A5753 Trunnion 14G6451 Cleat AHH5714 Clip-pipe AHH5429 Rubber adaptor BHA4090 Screw-No. 4 P.K. AHH5591 Screw- ¼...
Page 256 Fig. S.3 Components of the M.G. (Series MGA Twin Cam) fresh air ventilation kit fitted in position ©2018 morrisgarages.ch...
Page 257 MGA TWIN CAM FRESH AIR VENTILATION KIT Part No. 8G9038 Item number Description Part Number Quantity Cold air unit AHH5797 Push-pull control AHH5786 Hose—air intake AHH5394 Air hose-(4 in. X 36 in.) AHH5785 Switch-blower 17H 1941 Trunnion 14G6451 Bracket (push-pull)
Page 258: Maintenance Of Bodywork And Upholstery
Pull out the air control knob to its full extent. Fit the trunnion (5) and screw (11) to the forked lever on the air intake tube. Pass the inner cable through the trunnion and rotate the lever towards the cable clamp, pressing it firmly into position to ensure that the flap valve completely seals the tube.
Page 259: Removing The Windshield (Coupé)
to suit any variation. A tolerance of 1/8 in. (3.2 mm.) is permitted. The rails can be set by placing the rear face over a soft wood block. Grip the rails with the hands on each side of the block, about 12 in. (305 mm.) apart, and gently slide from side to side over the block, exerting sufficient graduated pressure to shape the rail to the desired curvature.
Page 260: Removing And Replacing The Rear Light
Fig. S.4 Inserting the cord in the outside tip of the rubber channel after fitting the plated finisher Seelastik sealing compound should be injected between the outer lip of the rubber seal and the body and between the seal and the glass. The application must be evenly distributed round the windshield. To ensure this the outside lip should be firmly pressed down, with the fingers or a wooden roller, to spread the sealing compound under the rubber seal.
Page 261: Removing A Door Lock Or Window Regulator (Coupé)
Fig. S.5 Showing the use of a pressure gun to apply Seelastik The application must be evenly distributed right round the glass. To ensure this the outside lip should be firmly pressed down with the fingers or a wooden roller to spread the sealing compound under the rubber seal.
Page 262: Removing The Head Liner (Coupé)
To remove the door lock Take out the three screws securing the remote control to the door and the four screws in the shut face of the door securing the lock. The lock, remote control, and remote control link can then be withdrawn from the door.
Page 264: Key To Lubrication Chart
KEY TO LUBRICATION CHART DAILY ENGINE. Check the oil level with the dipstick. Replenish if necessary with new oil (Ref. A). EVERY 1,000 MILES (1,600 km.) STEERING. Give three or four strokes with the lubricating gun filled to Ref. C to the nipples on the steering joints on both sides of the car.

MG MGA Twin Cam Workshop Manual

Introduction

General Information

Maintenance Attention

Section a the Engine

Section B the Ignition System

Section C the Cooling System

Section D the Fuel System

Section E the Clutch

Section F

The Gearbox

Section G the Propeller Shaft

Section H the Rear Axle

Section J the Steering Gear

Section K the Front Suspension

Section L the Hydraulic Dampers

Section M the Braking System

Section N. Electrical Equipment

Section Nn (Mga 1600)

Section O the Wheels, Tyres, and Jacking

Section P Lubrication

Section R the Chassis

Section S the Body

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Summary of Contents for MG MGA Twin Cam