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TUNING THE H426 B&R RIG
the mast and see if it is straight (rather
than bent from side to side). If not then
adjust the lowers (D1) until it is.
8.
If you have the standard rig you need to
attach the struts at this time. Attach
the lower end of the strut to the smaller
hole in the chainplate. Adjust the length
by turning the ball joint bearing in the
upper end of the strut until the holes in
the pin can be attached. It is normal to
have some play between the strut and
the chainplate and strut bracket
9.
The final test is to go sailing in 10-15
knots of wind. If when sailing upwind,
the shrouds on the leeward side are
slack then tighten them to remove
about half the slack keeping note of the
number of turns. Then tack and do the
same to the other side. Do this until you
are happy with the tension and the
leeward side does not get loose when
the boat is heeled. Now sight up the
mast to be sure it is still relatively
straight from side to side. If it is not
then adjust to appropriate rigging to
correct it. For example: if the mast is
straight until the upper spreader and
then hooks to the windward side then
you will have to revisit steps 6 and 7
above. Remember to always tighten the
leeward shroud, tack and tighten the
new leeward shroud the same amount.
This prevents damage to the
turnbuckles and is also much easier to
do. Keep in mind it is also possible to
have something too tight such as a
diagonal shroud.
10. At this point you should have adequate
headstay tension. The sails are built for
an average of 14" [350mm] of headstay
sag, possibly more or less depending
upon light or heavy air. The bend in the
standard mast should be about 4"
[100mm] and 1" [25mm] in the furling
mast and it should be nearly straight
from side to side when sailing upwind.
If any of these are not true then revisit
the appropriate step above to correct it.
If the sag in the headstay is too much
then adding tension to the verticals will
fix it.
11. Once the rig is tuned you should make
sure to add the cotter pins to all the
rigging bending back the ends and
taping them to prevent snagged lines,
sails and fingers.
Remember that rigging, like everything else,
can age. As it gets older it may need to be
replaced. The frequency for which this
becomes necessary depends on the climate
and conditions in which the boat is sailed.
For example: if you sail in the Caribbean it
should be replaced every 2-3 years
compared to every 10 for the great lakes.
You should consult a professional rigger for
advice.
PAGE 53
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