Troubleshooting - ControlOMatic MegaChlor Operating Instructions Manual

It is always a good idea to revisit the user manual to make sure installation or maintenance steps were not
overlooked before referring to the trouble shooting section.
Red and Green
This is by far the most common problem and is an indication of too much salt. Even if you added the correct
amount and the salt level measures OK, the indication is dependant on water temperature and other minerals
in the water. It is always a good idea to start off low and add more salt after a couple days.
If you contact ControlOMatic with this problem you will be asked for the results of the following tests.
� Easy First Test
Take the electrode out of the water and turn it on (or press boost) so it starts making chlorine, if the lights still
turn green/red then there is a problem and it isn't the water.
Second Test – The Bucket Test
Fill a 5 gallon bucket 2/3 with spa water and 1/3 with fresh water. Turn the unit off and leave in the bucket for
5 minutes to adjust to the temperature. Turn it on and see if the lights are blue when making chlorine, if they
are then remove 1/3 of the spa water and replace with fresh water. If not try again but fill the bucket ½ with
spa water and ½ with fresh water and try again.
Power Supply Test
There is a slight chance it is the power supply, if you have a voltmeter measure the DC voltage and it should
be around 12 Vdc. If it is higher, like 13 then that would cause the problem and the supply is bad.
Disconnect Electrode Test
The problem is either the circuit board or the electrode. Open the control box and disconnect one of the two
wires to the electrode so the electrode is now disconnected. Turn the unit on and when it starts making
chlorine if the problem goes away then it is the electrode, if the problem doesn't go away it is the circuit.
If after performing these tests the led's remain red and green then there may be a short in your saltwater
system so please contact us.
Plates Need Cleaning - White Calcium Deposits
� If there is a white calcium buildup between the titanium plates, this will interfere with the chlorine
production. Disconnect the power before cleaning. Soak the cell in a mild acid (white vinegar or pH down)
for 10 to 30 minutes and rinse in clean water. Repeat until the white deposits are gone
RED Lights While Making Chlorine
� Salt level below 3000 PPM: Add salt if not making enough chlorine. Before adding salt it is a good idea to
measure the salt level first
� Check the cell for white calcium buildup and if present clean the plates
� Plates damaged: Unit needs to be replaced. The plates will last 7000 to 10000 hours of chlorine
production and the MegaChlor may be at the end of its life. Note: The lower the power level you can
operate on, the longer the MegaChlor will last
Consistently Low Chlorine
� Power level too low: Increase the power level
� Low salt level: Adjust the salt level as necessary. The MegaChlor will make less chlorine with a lower salt
level
Make sure you are measuring the chlorine at the end of a chlorine production cycle
� Plates need cleaning: See above
� High bather load: Additional chlorine or shock may be needed
TROUBLE SHOOTING
Light on at the Same Time