Reliant Rebel 700 1967 Workshop Manual page 54

To remove clutch master cylinder
1. Remove all superficial dirt from the assembly, particularly
around the connecting point for the fluid pipe line. Use a
recommended cleaning agent and do not allow the solvent
to contaminate internal parts. Dry off thoroughly.
2. Disconnect the fluid pipe by unscrewing the union.
3. Disconnect the push rod from the clutch pedal by removing
the split pin and washer, enabling the clevis pin to be
withdrawn from the clutch pedal arm.
4. Remove two 5/16"UNF set screws, nuts and lock washers
and withdraw the master cylinder from the mounting
bracket.
5. Empty the contents of the master cylinder in to a clean
container.
6. Plug the end of the fluid pipe to prevent fluid loss and dirt
entry.
To replace master cylinder
1. Refit the master cylinder to its mounting bracket with two
5/16"UNF bolts, nuts and lock washers.
2. Reconnect the fluid pipe. Tighten the union securely but be
careful not to over tighten it.
3. Reconnect the master cylinder push rod to the clutch pedal
arm.
4. Top up the reservoir with clean fluid and bleed the system.
5. Check for leaks with the system under pressure – pedal held
down. Road test to check clutch operation.
The clutch slave cylinder (Figure 4 & 5)
The clutch slave cylinder is mounted on the right-hand side of the
engine rear plate and is secured by two 5/16"UNF set screws, nuts
and lock washers. Failure of the clutch pedal to depress fully could
indicate a seized slave cylinder. Any leakage from the area of the dust
seal also indicates imminent failure. As with master cylinders, it is
recommended that a failed slave cylinder be renewed should it fail.
To remove slave cylinder
1. Unscrew the union and remove the fluid pipe. Plug the end
of the pipe to avoid fluid loss or dirt ingress.
2. Unhook the return spring from the clutch fork to the rear
engine plate.
3. Remove two 5/16"UNF set screws, nuts and lock washers
and withdraw the slave cylinder.
To replace slave cylinder
1. Locate the slave cylinder in to the engine back plate and
secure with two 5/16"UNF set screws, nuts and lock
washers.
2. Ensuring that the clutch fork is correctly located with the
push rod, hook the return spring on to the fork and rear
engine plate.
3. Reconnect the fluid pipe. Tighten the union securely but be
careful not to over tighten it.
4. Top up the reservoir with clean fluid and bleed the system.
5. Check for leaks with the system under pressure – pedal held
down. Road test to check clutch operation.
The clutch assembly
The clutch disc, cover and release bearing on hydraulic clutch cars are
exactly the same as fitted to cars with mechanical clutch operation.
Clutch removal and replacement procedure is covered earlier in this
section.
The pedal assembly (Figure 6)
The hydraulic clutches use a pedal assembly which is, as the clutch
itself, virtually the same as the mechanically operated clutch vehicles.
Removal and replacement is as covered earlier in this section.
Clutch adjustment (Figure 6)
Figure 6 Hydraulic clutch adjustment
1. Adjuster
2. Lock nut
3. Operating fork
4. Push rod
Slacken the lock nut and turn the adjuster to give 0.79-1.59mm
(0.031-0.063in) of movement of the operating fork against the spring
pressure on the push rod.
Tighten the lock nut on completion.
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