Reliant Rebel 700 1967 Workshop Manual page 27

Operation 2 Flywheel and ring gear removal and
replacement
Flywheel removal
1. Remove the gearbox (see Section G)
2. Unscrew the six set screws, complete with lock washers,
and remove the clutch cover and driven plate from the flywheel.
3. Release the tab washer and unscrew the three set screws.
Remove the flywheel assembly from the flywheel.
Starter ring gear removal
1. Drill a hole 6.35 mm (0.25 in) diameter at the point of
intersection of a scribed line between any two teeth and a scribed line
mid way between the root diameter and the inside diameter of the
ring gear. Ensure that the hole is not drilled through the ring gear in to
the flywheel, as this will interfere with the subsequent balance of the
flywheel.
2. Hold the flywheel assembly in a soft jaw vice.
3. Place a cloth over the ring gear as a precaution against
flying shrapnel.
Warning: Ensure adequate protection, particularly for the eyes to
prevent injury from the possibility of flying fragments when the ring
gear is split.
4. Place a cold chisel immediately above the centre line of the
drilled hole and strike sharply to split the ring gear.
Figure 4 Fitting flywheel bearing
Figure 5 Centralising the clutch
Refitting
1. Heat up the new ring gear uniformly to a temperature of
200°C.
2. Place the flywheel on a stable flat surface, clutch face
uppermost and clean the ring gear locating surface.
3.
Slip the heated new ring gear in to place and hold in
position until it contracts under cooling sufficiently to grip the
flywheel.
4. Allow the assembly to fully cool naturally to avoid
distortion.
Refitting the flywheel assembly
1. Clean the mating face between the flywheel and the end of
the crankshaft. Check that the locating dowel is undamaged and
ensure that the spigot bush (needle bearing on 750cc) is in place.
Check the bush for wear. If wear is evident then knock the old one out
and fit a new one using special tool no. RT 7485 (Figure 2). Needle
roller bearings have been used as an alternative to the phosphor
bronze bush and care must be taken when replacing these. It is vital to
note that the hardened square end face of the bearing must face the
tool used to press in the bearing. Use of the rolled end of the bearing
will distort the shell and damage the rollers. In many cases the part
number or makers name will be stamped in to the hardened end to
aid identification. If this does not apply, great care must be observed
to identify the correct end.
2. Fit the flywheel to the crankshaft locating it over the dowel.
3. Secure the flywheel with three set screws and a new tab
washer tightening to a torque of 4.03 kg/m (29 lb/ft). The tabs on the
washer should be bent over to secure the set screws.
4. Check the flywheel for alignment using a dial indicator
gauge. A 0.08 to 0.13 mm (0.003 to 0.005 in) run out is acceptable. If
this is exceeded the flywheel needs to be renewed.
5. Using special tool no. RT 7485 as a centraliser, or if this is
not available an input shaft from a spare gearbox, replace the clutch
disc and pressure plate assembly on to the flywheel, securing evenly
with six set screws and lock washers to a torque of 1.66 to 2.07 kg/m
(12 to 15 lb/ft) see Figure 3. The pressure plate assembly should be
tapped with a hide mallet to ensure it is square on the flywheel.
6. Check clutch run-out does not exceed 0.381 mm (0.015 in)
on the steel thrust disc.
7.
Refit the gearbox.
Page 27