4. If you are using the latest slic3r configuration files, you will then see the extruder probe the bed
in all 4 corners and stop on the left rear of the bed. The hotend should be cold during this
process to avoid damaging the print surface.
Note: If the printer stops at any of these steps or misses the endstop,
refer to the troubleshooting portion of the forum for help or contact us.
5. The hotend will then heat up to the target temperature.
Note: If you cancel a print on the first layer IMMEDIATELY push the
extruder off the bed to avoid melting the print surface.
P r i n t i n g S t a r t s ...
1. The extruder will then move to the first point of the print and start extruding plastic.
As the print begins, you may have to slightly adjust the height of the extruder during the first
layer (Refer to the chart on the next page).
You can do this by using the LCD screen. Quickly go to "Tune > Babystep Z" then turn the knob.
This will raise or lower the extruder by very small amounts so you can fine tune the first layer
height. Clockwise raises the extruder and counter-clockwise will lower it.
2. If you notice the x-axis doesn't seem level and one side is
higher you can fix this by manually turning one of the z-
axis lead screws. Clockwise will raise that side of the x-
axis, or counterclockwise will lower it.
Note: Using z-lift, a slic3r setting, is not
recommended. You should adjust the z-axis
height manually by raising or lowering the auto
bed leveling sensor outlined below.
3. The goal is to make sure the plastic is extruding flat on
the bed. If you can't see any plastic or the motor is
skipping (a ticking sound), it may be too close to the bed in which case you should raise the
extruder. Look closely at the nozzle tip as you turn the motors to see the height changes.
Note: You may need to adjust the first layer as you continue to use your
printer to ensure the print starts out perfectly flat but you should
always adjust the auto bed leveling sensor before starting the next
print.
Page 6
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