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gMax Printer 1.5 - Quick Start Guide v1.0 – 2.18.15 S u m m a r y : This guide should be used after your printer has been set up and calibrated. This manual can be used as a “Quick Start” guide to using the printer as well as a refresher on using the printer. Please refer to the User Manual for a more in‐depth guide to the printer. B e f o r e P l u g g i n g I n t h e P r i n t e r . . . After completing the build, verify all the printer wires are properly plugged in. Use the electronics ...
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P l u g I n a n d P o w e r u p 1. Remove the power cord from the power supply box and use the cord to plug the power supply into the wall. Note: The power supply is a computer ATX power supply and it will have many additional wires coming out of the back. These wires are not used and should be tied and tucked away. 2. Press the power button located beneath the LCD screen to turn on the printer. 3. The printer LCD screen should immediately turn on and display text. Below is a diagram of what each portion of the LCD screen represents. (This is for dual extruders and single extruder setups will not have a “Hotend #2” reading): Note: If your LCD screen displays the message “MINTEMP” or the Hotend “Current temp” reads 0 degrees, do not proceed and check the connection of your thermistors. Refer to the forum for more information on fixint a MINTEMP error. ...
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S l i c i n g 1. We must take the 3d model of your choosing and “slice” it into many layers. Each layer is made up of a path for the extruder to follow. Refer to the manual or the gCreate YouTube channel for information and tutorials on slicing. Note: We recommend slic3r for its ease of use and constant updates. 2. Slicing your model will result in the creation of a gcode file. Note: A gcode file is a text file filled with commands used to run the printer. It can be opened with a simple text editor such as Microsoft Notepad. A gcode file is not the same as a 3d model or an .stl file. 3. Insert the SD card supplied with your printer, into the computer and load this file on the card. 4. Properly eject the SD card from the computer. ...
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I n s e r t F i l a m e n t I n t o E x t r u d e r 1. Open a spool of filament and place on filament spool brackets on top of printer. Ensure the filament unspools from the bottom. 2. Adjust brackets to match width of spool. Should the filament get tangled, this will prevent the spool from falling and it also allows the filament to unwind smoothly. 3. Every time you insert filament, cut end of filament at an angle to produce a clean end. It is recommended to straighten 4” of the end of the filament by gently bending it. This will make it much easier to insert into the extruder. ...
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C h o o s e a F i l e t o P r i n t 1. Slide the SD card (upside‐down) into the left side of the LCD screen. It slides in just below the circuit board and it should push‐click into place. You should also push‐click when removing it. 2. Using the LCD screen, the bottom line should now say “Card Inserted”. If not, try removing the SD card and reinserting it. 3. Push in the LCD screen knob (this is your accept button) and scroll down to “Print from SD” and push in the knob again. 4. Select the file you wish to print and push the knob. Y o u r f i r s t P r i n t 1.
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4. Once the extruder stops, this is considered the printer’s “Home” position and it will “re‐home” every time you start a print. 5. If you are using the latest configuration files, you will then see the z‐axis lift 10mm and stop while the hotend starts to heat. This will prevent the hotend from melting the acrylic bed as it heats up. 6. The hotend will then continue heat up, which you can see on the LCD screen, until the current temperature reaches the target temperature. If it doesn’t heat up refer to the troubleshooting area of the forum. 7. The heat will reach the target temperature after about 20‐30 seconds P r i n t i n g S t a r t s … 1. The extruder will then move to the center of the bed and start extruding plastic. 2. As the print begins, you may have to adjust the height of the extruder by manually turning BOTH of the z‐axis ...
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F i r s t L a y e r P r i n t D i a g r a m N o z z l e i s t o o l o w N o z z l e i s j u s t r i g h t N o z z l e i s t o o h i g h ...
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N e x t S t e p s If your printer is new and not fully calibrated make sure to keep an eye on the print. Every file you print has its own characteristics and sometimes it will surprise you what happens. Also the beginning of the print is critical to the final results and you should make sure it adheres correctly. Note : As print starts, keep an eye on the filament spool to ensure it does not bind or wrap around the brackets. This is especially true for new spools of filament. A d j u s t M i n i m u m Z - A x i s H e i g h t You should also adjust the z‐axis endstop screw to set the new zero point. The zero point is the lowest ...
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R e m o v i n g t h e p r i n t . D a v i d v s . G o l i a t h After the print finishes you can immediately pop it off (unless it’s very small in which case you may want to let it cool for a few minutes). If the first layer printed correctly you should see no curling and the print should be easy to remove. USING EXTREME CAUTION take the supplied scraper and gently tap at the edges of the print. We have found this tapping action is much safer and much easier to remove a model rather than pure brute force and it is also better for the print bed. Look for corners of the model and tap them with the ...