Table of Contents
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Table of Contents
Related Manuals for Anet E10
Summary of Contents for Anet E10
- Page 1 3 D Print Quality Troubleshooting Guide Shenzhen Anet Technology Co,. Ltd.
- Page 2 Print Quality Troubleshooting Guide ................1 Overview ........................1 Not Extruding at Start of Print ................4 1.1 Filament was not loaded into extruder before printing ......4 1.2 The distance between nozzle and bed is too close ........5 1.3 The filament stripped against the drive gear ..........
- Page 3 6.1 Retraction distance .................. 21 6.2 Retraction speed ..................22 6.3 Temperature is too high ................22 Overheating ...................... 24 7.1 Insufficient cooling ................... 24 7.2 Print at too high temperature ..............25 7.3 Printing too fast..................25 7.4 When all above fall, try to print multiple parts at once ......26 Layer Shifting or Misalignment ................
- Page 4 12.2 The filament has stripped against the drive gear ........41 12.3 The extruder is clogged ................41 12.4 Overheated extruder motor driver ............42 13. Weak Infill ......................43 13.1 Increase infill density ................44 13.2 Lower print speed .................. 44 14.
- Page 5 19.3 Force the software to print small features ..........59 20. Inconsistent Extrusion ..................60 20.1 Filament is getting stuck or tangled ............61 20.2 Clogged extruder ................... 61 20.3 Layer height is very low ................. 62 20.4 Poor quality filament ................62 20.5 Mechanical issues of extruder ...............
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Page 6: Print Quality Troubleshooting Guide
Print Quality Troubleshooting Guide Overview Use the thumbnails below to identify the print quality issue that you are seeing in your own 3D printed parts. You can click on the words under the thumbnail to jump that portion of the guide for immediate recommendations on how to resolve the issue. - Page 7 Extruding Too Much Plastic Holes and Gaps in the Top Stringing or Oozing Layers Overheating Layer shifting or Misalignment Layer Separation and Splitting Clogged Extruder Grinding Filament Stops Extruding Mid Print...
- Page 8 Weak Infill Curling or Rough Corners Scars on Top Surface Gaps in Floor Corners Lines on the Side of Print Vibrations and Ringing Very Small Features Not Being Inconsistent Extrusion Printed...
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Page 9: Not Extruding At Start Of Print
1. Not Extruding at Start of Print This issue is very common for new 3D printer owners, but thankfully, it is also very easy to resolve. There are four possible causes if your extruder does not extrude plastic at the beginning of your print. We will walk through each one below and explain how to solve the problem. -
Page 10: The Distance Between Nozzle And Bed Is Too Close
If you need extra priming, you can increase the number of skirt outlines on the Expert tab in Cura. You can also use control knob in Anet3D printer to extrude plastic before printing. 1.2 The distance between nozzle and bed is too close If the nozzle is too close to the bed, there will not be enough room for plastic to come out of the extruder. -
Page 11: The Extruder Is Clogged
1.4 The extruder is clogged If none of the above suggestions are able to resolve the issue, then it is likely that your extruder is clogged. This can happen if foreign debris is trapped inside the nozzle, when hot plastic sits inside the extruder too long, or if the thermal cooling for the extruder is not sufficient and the filament begins to soften outside of the desired melt zone. -
Page 12: Print Not Sticking To The Bed
2. Print Not Sticking to the Bed It is very important that the first layer of your print is strongly connected to the printer’s build platform so that the remainder of your part can be built on this foundation. If the first layer is not sticking to the build platform, it will create... -
Page 13: Build Platform Is Not Level
problems later on. There are many different ways to cope with these first layer adhesion problems, so we will examine several typical causes below and explain how to address each one. 2.1 Build platform is not level Anet3D printer uses 4 screws to control the position of the bed. If you have trouble to get your first layer to stick to the bed, the first thing you need to verify is that your printer’s bed is flat and level. -
Page 14: First Layer Is Printing Too Fast
paper). Be careful to only make small adjustments to this setting. Each layer of your part is usually only around 0.2mm thick, so a small adjustment goes a long way. 2.3 First layer is printing too fast As you extrude the first layer of plastic, you want the plastic can properly bond to the surface of build platform before starting the next layer. - Page 15 much, since it is typically kept at a fairly constant temperature. Because of this fact, the plastic will tend to separate from the build platform as it cools. This is an important fact to keep in mind as you print your first layer. If you notice that the layer seems to stick initially, but later separates from the print bed as it cools, it is possible that your temperature and cooling settings are to blame.
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Page 16: The Build Platform (Tape, Glues And Materials)
2.5 The build platform (tape, glues and materials) Different plastics tend to adhere better to different materials. If you are going to print directly onto these surfaces, it is always a good idea to make sure that your build platform is free of dust, grease, or oils before starting the print. Cleaning your print bed with some water or isopropyl rubbing alcohol can make a big difference. - Page 17 a raft under their part, which can also be used to provide a larger surface for bed adhesion. If you are interested in these options, please take a look at “Cura Tutorial”, which explains things in greater detail.
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Page 18: Not Extruding Enough Plastic
3. Not Extruding Enough Plastic Cura includes some settings used to determine how much plastic the 3D printer should extruder. However, because the 3D printer does not provide any feedback about how much plastic actually leaves the nozzle, it’s possible that there may be less plastic exiting the nozzle than what the software expects (otherwise known as under-extrusion). -
Page 19: Increase The Extrusion Speed
1.75mm. 3.2 Increase the extrusion speed If your filament diameter is correct, but you are still seeing under-extrusion issues, then you need to adjust your extrusion speed. This is a very useful setting in Anet3D printer control panel that allows you to easily modify the amount of plastic that is extruded (otherwise known as the flow rate). -
Page 20: Extruding Too Much Plastic
4. Extruding Too Much Plastic The software is constantly working together with your printer to make sure that your nozzle is extruding the correct amount of plastic. This precise extrusion is an important factor in achieving good print quality. However, most 3D printers have no way of monitoring how much plastic is actually extruded. - Page 21 settings are not configured properly, the printer may extruder more plastic than the software expects. This over-extrusion will result in excess plastic that can ruin the outer dimensions of your part. To resolve this issue, there are only a few settings you need to verify in Anet3D control panel.
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Page 22: Holes And Gaps In The Top Layers
5. Holes and Gaps in the Top Layers To save plastic, most 3D printed parts are created to have a solid shell that surrounds a porous, partially hollow interior. For example, the interior of the part may use a 30% infill percentage, which means that only 30% of the interior is... -
Page 23: Not Enough Top Solid Layers
solid plastic, while the rest is air. While the interior of the part may be partially hollow, we want the exterior to remain solid. To do this, Anet3D allows you to specify how many solid layers you want on the top and bottom of your part. For example, if you were printing a simple cube with 5 top and bottom solid layers, the software would print 5 completely solid layers at the top and bottom of the print, but everything else in the middle would be printed as a partially hollow layer. -
Page 24: Infill Percentage Is Too Low
should try is increasing the number of top solid layers. For example, if you noticed the problem using only 0.6mm solid layers, try printing with 1mm solid layers to see if the problem is improved. Note that additional solid layers will occur within your part dimension and do not add size to the exterior of your part. -
Page 25: Stringing Or Oozing
6. Stringing or Oozing Stringing (otherwise known as oozing, whiskers, or “hairy” prints) occurs when small strings of plastic are left behind on a 3D printed model. This is typically due to plastic oozing out of the nozzle while the extruder is moving to a... -
Page 26: Retraction Distance
new location. Thankfully, there are several settings in Cura can help with this issue. The most common setting that is used to combat excessive stringing is something that is known as retraction. If retraction is enabled, when the extruder is done printing one section of your model, the filament will be pulled backwards into the nozzle to act as a countermeasure against oozing. -
Page 27: Retraction Speed
6.2 Retraction speed Retraction speed determines how fast the filament is retracted from the nozzle. If you retract too slowly, the plastic will slowly ooze down through the nozzle and may start leaking before the extruder is done moving to its new destination. - Page 28 “Control”, confirm and choose “Nozzle”, confirm. Then turn the knob to adjust the temperature.
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Page 29: Overheating
7. Overheating The plastic that exits your extruder may be anywhere from 190 to 240 degrees Celsius. While the plastic is still hot, it is pliable and can easily be formed into different shapes. However, as it cools, it quickly becomes solid and retains its shape. -
Page 30: Print At Too High Temperature
7.2 Print at too high temperature If you are already using a cooling fan and you are still seeing this issue, you may need to try printing at a lower temperature. If the plastic is extruded at a lower temperature it will be able to solidify faster and retain its shape. Try lowering the print temperature by 5-10 degrees to see if it helps. -
Page 31: When All Above Fall, Try To Print Multiple Parts At Once
7.4 When all above fall, try to print multiple parts at once If you have already tried the 3 items above and you are still having trouble achieving sufficient cooling, there’s one more thing you can try. You can create a copy of the part you are trying to print in Cura by selecting model, (Select the model >... -
Page 32: Layer Shifting Or Misalignment
8. Layer Shifting or Misalignment Most 3D printers use an open-loop control system, which is a fancy way to say that they have no feedback about the actual location of the nozzle. The printer simply attempts to move the nozzle to a specific location, and hopes that it gets... -
Page 33: Nozzle Moves Too Fast
there. In most cases, this works fine because the stepper motors that drive the printer are quite powerful, and there are no significant loads to prevent the nozzle from moving. However, if something does go wrong, the printer would have no way to detect this. -
Page 34: Mechanical Or Electrical Issues
8.2 Mechanical or Electrical issues If the layer misalignment continues, even after reducing your print speed, then it is likely due to mechanical or electrical issues with the printer. For example, most 3D printers use belts that allow the motors to control the position of the nozzle. - Page 35 layers of the print. So if layer misalignment is a reoccurring problem, you should verify that all of the motor fasteners are properly tightened. There are also several other common electrical issues that can cause the motors to lose their position. For example, if there is not enough electrical current getting to the motors, they won’t have enough power to spin.
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Page 36: Layer Separation And Splitting
9. Layer Separation and Splitting 3D printing works by building the object one layer at a time. Each successive layer is printed on top of the previous layer, and in the end this creates the desired 3D shape. However, for the final part to be strong and reliable, you need to make... -
Page 37: Layer Height Is Too Large
sure that each layer adequately bonds to the layer below it. If the layers do not bond together well enough, the final part may split or separate. We will examine several typical causes for this below and provide suggestions for resolving each one. -
Page 38: Print Temperature Is Too Low
9.2 Print temperature is too low Warm plastic will always bond together much better than cold plastic. If you notice that your layers aren’t bonding together and you are certain that your layer height isn’t too large, it is possible that your filament needs to be printed a higher temperature to create a strong bond. -
Page 39: Grinding Filament
10. Grinding Filament Most 3D printers use a small drive gear that grabs the filament and sandwiches it against another bearing. The drive gear has sharp teeth that allow it to bite into the filament and push it forward or backward, depending on which... -
Page 40: Increase The Extruder Temperature
direction the drive gear spins. If the filament is unable to move, yet the drive gear keeps spinning, it can grind away enough plastic from the filament so that there is nothing left for the gear teeth to grab on to. Many people refer to this situation as the filament being “stripped,”... -
Page 41: Check For A Nozzle Clog
can help avoid grinding issues. In Anet3D control panel, you can press the knob to enter the menu and choose “Configuration” and then choose “motion”, find“Esteps/mm” to adjust extrusion speed. The default value is 95mm/s. you modify it to 93mm/s. That means it will be 2mm plastic less extruded from the nozzle per second. -
Page 42: Clogged Extruder
11. Clogged Extruder Your 3D printer must melt and extrude many kilograms of plastic over its lifetime. To make things more complicated, all of this plastic must exit the extruder through a tiny hole that is only as big as a single grain of sand. -
Page 43: Manually Push The Filament To Extruder
Inevitably, there may come a time where something goes wrong with this process and the extruder is no longer able to push plastic through the nozzle. These jams or clogs are usually due to something inside the nozzle that is blocking the plastic from freely extruding. -
Page 44: Clean Out The Nozzle
filament. Then reload the filament and see if you are able to extrude with the new, undamaged section of filament. Please refer to “Tutorial of filament drawing out and push in”. 11.3 Clean out the nozzle If you can’t extrude the new section of plastic through the nozzle, then it’s likely you will need to clean out the nozzle before proceeding. -
Page 45: Stops Extruding In The Middle Of A Print
12. Stops Extruding in the Middle of a Print If your printer was extruding properly at the beginning of your print, but suddenly stopped extruding later on, there are typically only a few things that could have caused this problem. We will explain each common cause below and provide suggestions for fixing the issue. -
Page 46: Out Of Filament
extruding at the very beginning of the print, please see the Not Extruding at Start of Print section. 12.1 Out of filament This one is pretty obvious, but before checking the other issues, first verify that you still have filament leading into the nozzle. If the spool has run out, you will need to load a new spool before continuing the print. -
Page 47: Overheated Extruder Motor Driver
enough dust is attached to the filament, it can cause a clog as it builds up inside the nozzle. There are several other possible causes for a clogged extruder, so please see the clogged extruder description in the Not Extruding at Start of Print section for more details. -
Page 48: Weak Infill
13. Weak Infill The infill inside your 3D printed part plays a very important role in the overall strength of your model. The infill is responsible for connecting the outer shells of your 3D print, and must also support upper surfaces that will be printed on top of... -
Page 49: Increase Infill Density
the infill. If your infill appears to be weak or stringy, you may want to adjust a few settings within the software to add additional strength to this section of your print. 13.1 Increase infill density In printing process, the fill density print has a great influence to its strength. If the infill density is very low, there will be a large number of empty gaps in the interior. -
Page 50: Curling Or Rough Corners
14. Curling or Rough Corners If you are seeing curling issues later on in your print, it typically points to overheating issues. The plastic is extruded at a very hot temperature, and if it does not cool quickly, it may change shape over time. Curling can be prevented... - Page 51 by rapidly cooling each layer so that it does not have time to deform before it has solidified. Please read the Overheating section for a more detailed description of this issue and how to resolve it. If you are noticing the curling at the very beginning of your print, please see the Print Not Sticking to the Bed section to...
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Page 52: Scars On Top Surface
15. Scars on Top Surface One of the benefits of 3D printing is that each part is constructed one layer at a time. This means that for each individual layer, the nozzle can freely move to any portion of your print bed, since the part is still being constructed down below. -
Page 53: Holes And Gaps In Floor Corners
16. Holes and Gaps in Floor Corners When building 3D printed part, each layer relies on the foundation from the layer below. However, the amount of plastic that is used for the print is also a concern, so a balance must be achieved between the strength of the foundation and the amount of plastic that is used. -
Page 54: Not Enough Perimeters
will start to see holes and gaps between the layers. This is typically most obvious in the corners, where the size of the part is changing (for example, if you were printing a 20mm cube on top of a 40mm cube). When you transition to the smaller size, you need to make sure that you have a sufficient foundation to support the sidewalls of the 20mm cube. -
Page 55: Infill Density Is Too Low
appropriate value. If you were previously using only 0.6mm solid layers, try the same print with 1.2mm top solid layers to see if the foundation is improved. 16.3 Infill density is too low The final setting you should check is the infill density. You will set the value under the“Fill Density”... -
Page 56: Lines On The Side Of Print
17. Lines on the Side of Print The sides of your 3D printed part are composed of hundreds of individual layers. If things are working properly, these layers will appear to be a single, smooth surface. -
Page 57: Inconsistent Extrusion
However, if something goes wrong with just one of these layers, it is usually clearly visible from the outside of the print. These improper layers may appear to look like lines or ridges on the sides of your part. Many times the defects will appear to be cyclical, meaning that the lines appear in a repeating pattern (i.e. -
Page 58: Mechanical Issues
visible ridges on the sides of your print. A properly tuned printer should be able to maintain the extruder temperature within +/-3degrees. During your print, you can use Anet3D printer’s control panel to monitor the temperature of your extruder. If it is varying by more than 3 degrees, you may need to recalibrate your thermistor. -
Page 59: Vibrations And Ringing
18. Vibrations and Ringing Ringing is a wavy pattern that may appear on the surface of your print due to printer vibrations or wobbling. Typically, you will notice this pattern when the extruder is making a sudden direction change, such as near a sharp corner. For... -
Page 60: Print Too Fast
example, if you were printing a 20mm cube, each time the extruder changes to print a different face of the cube, it would need to change directions. The inertia of the extruder can create vibrations when these sudden direction changes occur, which will be visible of the print itself. -
Page 61: Mechanical Issues
18.3 Mechanical issues If nothing else has been able to resolving the ringing issues, then you may want to look for mechanical issues that could be causing the excessive vibrations. For example, there could be a loose screw or a broken bracket that is allowing excessive vibrations to occur. -
Page 62: Very Small Features Not Being Printed
19. Very Small Features Not Being Printed Your printer includes a nozzle with a fixed size that allows you to accurately reproduce very small features. For example, many printers include a nozzle with a 0.4mm diameter hole in the tip. While this works well for most parts, you may start to... -
Page 63: Redesign The Parts With Thicker Features
encounter issues when trying to print extremely thin features that are smaller than the nozzle diameter. For example, if you were trying to print a 0.2mm thick wall with a 0.4mm nozzle. The reason for this is that you cannot accurately produce a 0.2mm extrusion from a 0.4mm nozzle. -
Page 64: Force The Software To Print Small Features
the internet. In this case, you may want to consider obtaining a second nozzle for your 3D printer that allows it to print smaller features. Many printers have a removable nozzle tip, which makes these aftermarket adjustments quite easy. For example, many users purchase a 0.3mm nozzle as well as a 0.5mm nozzle to provide two options. -
Page 65: Inconsistent Extrusion
20. Inconsistent Extrusion For your printer to be able to create accurate parts, it needs to be capable of extruding a very consistent amount of plastic. If this extrusion varies across different parts of your print, it is going to affect the final print quality. Inconsistent extrusion can usually be identified by watching your printer closely as it prints. -
Page 66: Filament Is Getting Stuck Or Tangled
For example, if the printer is printing a straight line that is 20mm long, but you notice that the extrusion seems rather bumpy or seems to vary in size, then you are likely experiencing this issue. We have summarized the most common causes for inconsistent extrusion, and explained how each one can be addressed. -
Page 67: Layer Height Is Very Low
20.3 Layer height is very low If the filament is spinning freely and the extruder is not clogged, it may be useful to check a few settings within Cura. For example, if you are trying to print at an extremely low layer height, such as 0.01mm, there is very little room for the plastic to exit the nozzle. -
Page 68: Mechanical Issues Of Extruder
If this setting is too loose, the drive gear teeth won’t cut far enough into the filament, which impacts the extruder’s ability to accurately control the position of the filament. Consult Anet to see if your printer has a similar adjustment.
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