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Connecting the refrigerant pipe
There are two refrigerant pipes of different diameters :
A smaller one for the liquid refrigerant
A larger one for the gas refrigerant
The inside of copper pipe must be clean & has no dust
1. Remove the pinch pipe on the pipes and connect the assembly pipes to each pipe, tightening the nuts, first
manually and then with a torque wrench, a spanner applying the following torque.
Refrigerant oil
If the pipes must be shortened refer to page 11.
NOTE
2. Must use insulator which is thick enough to cover the refrigerant tube to
protect the condensate water on the outside of pipe falling onto the floor and
the efficiency of the unit will be better.
3. Cut off any excess foam insulation.
4. Be sure that there must be no crack or wave on the bended area.
5. It would be necessary to double the insulation thickness(10mm or more) to prevent condensation even on the
insulator when if the installed area is warm and humid.
6. Do not use joints or extensions for the pipes that connect the indoor and outdoor unit. The only permitted
connections are those for which the units are designed.
Connect the indoor and outdoor units using pipes with flared connections(not supplied). For the lines,
use insulated, unwelded, degreased and deoxidized copper pipe,(Cu DHP type to ISO 1337), suitable for
CAUTION
operating pressures of at least 4200kPa(609.2 psi) and for a burst pressure of at least 20700kPa(3002.3 psi).
Copper pipe for hydro-sanitary applications is completely unsuitable.
For sizing and limits (height difference, line length, max. bends, refrigerant charge, etc.) see the outdoor
unit installation manual.
All refrigerant connection must be accessible, in order to permit either unit maintenance or removing it
completely.
10
Torque
wrench
Spanner
Flare nut
Union
Outer Diameter
mm
inch
6.35
1/4
14~18
9.52
3/8
34~42
12.70
1/2
49~61
15.88
5/8
68~82
Torque
10.3~13.3
25.1~31.0
36.1~45.0
50.2~60.5
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