Forks And Frame - Matchless 1964 G3 350 Instruction Book

FORK & FRAME SERVICE
STEERING HEAD ADJUSTMENT
The steering head frame races are of the floating self-aligning type and have spherical seats.
Therefore they do not fit tightly in the head lug.
Occasionally test the steering head for correct adjustment by exerting pressure upwards
from the extreme ends of the handlebars.
It is particularly important that the adjustment is tested after the first one hundred miles
because of the initial settling down that always occurs in that period.
Should any shake be apparent, adjust the steering head bearings.
Adjust steering head bearings by:
Jack up the front of the machine so that all weight is taken off the front wheel.
under each footrest serves that purpose).
Slacken the two fork crown pinch screws.
Slacken the domed nut at top of the steering column,
Screw down the nut underneath the domed nut a little at a time (using adjustable spanner
017249) and, while doing so, test the head assembly for slackness by placing the fingers
over the gap between handlebar lug and frame top lug, at the same time exerting upward
pressure by lifting from the front edge of the front mudguard.
slightest slackness is discernible.
Continue to tighten the lower adjusting nut until no perceptible movement can be felt
and yet the steering head is perfectly free to turn, then tighten down the domed nut
in order to lock the adjustment.
Securely tighten the two fork crown pinch screws (this is very important).
Remove packing from under footrest.
FRONT FORKS (TELEDRAULIC)
Owing to the unusual construction of the " T E L E D R A U L I C " fork it is desirable to
understand what happens in use and, in order to clearly follow the descriptions and
subsequent assembly and adjustment instructions, reference to illustration 29 will be
necessary.
As will be seen from the general arrangement drawing, the main members of the forks
are two long tubes.
limits. These fork main, inner, tubes are firmly fixed to the handlebar clip lug by the
top bolts 022215 and are clamped to the fork crown by the clamping screws.
external of these tubes are mounted the springs and sliding members, to which the front
wheel mudguard is fixed.
The telescopic action of the sliders, combined with the hydraulic dampers, described
later, explain the word "Teledraulic", coined for the description of the fork.
To disconnect the damper tube from the fork slider a thin wall box key is required to
release the damper tube fixing bolt 010697.
Oil leakage from this position is due to a loose bolt or deformed fibre washer.
A rattle in the fork assembly can be due to a disconnected damper rod or low oil content.
A scraping noise, when fork movement takes place is due to one, or both fork springs
rubbing against the fork cover tube.
outside diameter of the fork springs will have a beneficial effect.
TO EXPOSE THE FORK SPRINGS
As the fork inner tubes are a close fit in both the handlebar lug and fork crown a draw-
bolt, which can be used to drive out and pull back the tubes is available, part No. B.2141A.
To give attention to or to change the fork springs, the fork assembly, complete with front
wheel and mudguard assembled (leaving the headlamp, etc., in position) can be taken
away as a unit.
Raise the front wheel well clear of the ground.
Disconnect the front brake cable, handlebar end.
Remove both fork tube bolts (49) use spanner 018667.
These are of heavy gauge and are externally ground to very fine
A small amount of heavy grease applied on the
Tested in this manner the
56
56
(A box
Upon the