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■ S S y y s s t t e e m m w w i i l l l l n n o o t t p p a a s s s s i i v v e e l l y y a a r r m m u u n n t t i i l l i i t t i i s s r r e e m m o o t t e e l l y y a a r r m m e e d d a a n n d d t t h h e e n n d d i i s s a a r r m m e e d d : :
Are the door inputs connected? Is the H1/6 blue wire connected to the door trigger wire in the vehicle? Either
the H1/5 green or the H1/7 violet should be used instead. (See wiring diagrams.)
■ D D o o o o r r i i n n p p u u t t d d o o e e s s n n o o t t r r e e s s p p o o n n d d w w i i t t h h t t h h e e p p r r o o g g r r e e s s s s i i v v e e t t r r i i g g g g e e r r , , b b u u t t w w i i t t h h i i m m m m e e d d i i a a t t e e f f u u l l l l a a l l a a r r m m : :
Does the Status LED indicate that the trigger was caused by the shock sensor? (See Diagnostics section of this
guide.) The shock sensor, if set to extreme sensitivity, may be detecting the door unlatching before the door
switch sends its signal. Reducing the sensitivity can solve this problem.
■ T T h h e e V V a a l l e e t t / / P P r r o o g g r r a a m m s s w w i i t t c c h h d d o o e e s s n n ' ' t t w w o o r r k k . .
Is it plugged into the correct socket? See Plug-In LED and Valet/Program Switch section of this guide.
■ S S t t a a t t u u s s L L E E D D d d o o e e s s n n ' ' t t w w o o r r k k . .
You've probably guessed already, but here goes: Is it plugged in? (See Plug-In LED and Valet/Program Switch
section of this guide.) Is the LED plugged into the correct socket?
■ D D o o o o r r l l o o c c k k s s o o p p e e r r a a t t e e b b a a c c k k w w a a r r d d s s . .
This unit has easily-reversed lock/unlock outputs. Recheck wire connections to see if you have reversed these.
r r e e m m o o t t e e s s t t a a r r t t t t r r o o u u b b l l e e s s h h o o o o t t i i n n g g
■ T T h h e e r r e e m m o o t t e e s s t t a a r r t t w w i i l l l l n n o o t t a a c c t t i i v v a a t t e e . .
1. Check the harnesses and their connections. Make sure that the harnesses are completely plugged into the
remote start module. Make sure there are good connections to the vehicle wiring.
2. Check voltage and fuses. Use a meter to check for voltage between the red wire in the 5-pin ribbon harness
and the black ground wire. If you have less than battery voltage, check both 30A fuses on the relay satel-
lite. Also make sure that the ground wire connects to a good chassis ground point.
3. Check diagnostics. The diagnostics will tell you which shutdown is active or not connected.
■ T T h h e e r r e e m m o o t t e e s s t t a a r r t t w w i i l l l l a a c c t t i i v v a a t t e e , , b b u u t t t t h h e e s s t t a a r r t t e e r r n n e e v v e e r r e e n n g g a a g g e e s s . .
1. Check for voltage on the purple starter wire two seconds after the remote start becomes active. If there is
voltage present, skip to Step 4. If there is not voltage present, advance to Step 2.
2. Check the 30A fuses.
3. Check diagnostics. If the gray/black wire is detecting ground upon activation, the starter will not crank.
4. Make sure the purple starter wire is connected on the starter side of the optional starter kill/anti-grind relay.
5. Does the vehicle have an immobilizer? Some immobilizer systems will not allow the vehicle to crank if active.
6. Check connections. The two red heavy gauge input wires on the relay satellite should have solid connections.
"T-taps" or "scotch locks" are not recommended for any high current heavy gauge wiring. Also, if the vehicle
has more than one 12-volt input wire, then connect one red wire to each.
© 2005 Directed Electronics—all rights reserved
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