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12
OVERCASTING
When constructing
a
garment
with 5/8"
(1.5cm)
pressed-open seams,
it
is
easiest
to
finish
seam
allowances
by
serging
the
edges
of
each
pattern
piece before
stitching any
seams'
since
pattern
notches
will
be
trimmed
away during
serging. use
a
water-soluable pen
to
mark
the location
of
any
match¡ng
points.
To
overcast, place
the fabric in front
of
the
presser
foot with
the
cut
edge
aligned
with
the
right
edge
of the
needle
plate. (Figure
36)
As
you
stitch,
continue
to
guide
the fabric
along
the
needle
plate
edge.
lf
the
upper
knife
is
in cutting
position,
the
edge
of
the
fabric
will
be
"shaved"
smooth
but
not
cut
away.
Straight stitch the
seams
on
your conventional
machine and
press
open
as
usual'
1.
sew
along one
edge
until
you
reach
the corner.
Make one
stitch
off
the
edge
of
the
fabric'
2.
Clear
the
st¡tch fingers
(See
page
12) and rotate
the fabric
around
the corner'
Reposition the
needle
just
below the
previous
row
of
st¡tches'
3.
Lower the
presser
foot
and
continue stitching'
NOTE:
lf
a
loose thread
loop forms at the
corner,
it
is caused
by
too
much slack
in
the
needle
thread when clearing
stitch
fingers.
Try
again
.
. . corners
take
a
litfle
practice'
Figure 36
Figure 37
13
TURNING
AN
OUTSIDE CORNER
16
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