Baby Lock Diana BL480A Instruction And Reference Manual
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Baby Lock Diana BL480A Instruction And Reference Manual

Baby Lock Diana BL480A Instruction And Reference Manual

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  • Page 2 PREFACE Thank you for your purchase of this Combination Overlock, Chain Stitch and Cover Stitch Machine. This machine, that is intended for household use will provide you with excellent performance in sewing from light to heavy material (lawn to denim). Please refer to this Instruction manual for proper use and optimum service.

  • Page 3: Important Safety Instructions

    “IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS” When using overlock machine, basic safety precautions should always be followed, including the following. Read all instructions before using this overlock machine. DANGER - To reduce the the risk of electric shock: 1. The overlock machine should never be left unattended when plugged in. Always unplug this overlock machine from the electrical outlet immediately after using and before cleaning.

  • Page 4: Table Of Contents

    TABLE OF CONTENTS Page Page Principal Parts. 22. Selection Stitches & Auto Tension................Accessories....Handy Reference Chart................Needle Information..........24. Suggested Tension Setting....... How to Open Front Cover ........Chain Stitch............5. Principal Parts Behind the Front Cover....

  • Page 5: Principal Parts

    1. PRINCIPAL PARTS 1. Thread antenna 2. Handle 3. Left needle thread tension fine tuning (red) 4. Right needle thread tension fine tuning (yellow) 5. Upper looper thread tension fine tuning (green) 6. Lower looper thread tension fine tuning ( blue 7.
  • Page 6 20. Presser bar lifter and tension release 21. Differential feed adjusting dial 22. Width adjustment dial 23. Foot pressure adjusting dial 24. Knife cover 25. Seam guide plate 26. Seam width finger lever...

  • Page 7: Accessories

    2. ACCESSORIES Accessories are contained in the accessory case 1. Screw driver (large size) 2. Knife (movable) 3. Spool cap(s) 4. Thread net(s) 5. Oiler 6. Allen wrench (small) 7. Tweezers 8. Needle set 9. Brush 2-Thread converter Seam guide plate Accessories in box with machine 12.

  • Page 8: How To Open

    4 . HOW TO OPEN FRONT COVER CAUTION Be sure to turn off power switch. CAUTION Be sure front cover is closed when sewing. Push the cover to the right as far as it will go. Pull cover down toward you. 5 .

  • Page 9: Removal And Replacement Of Waste Tray

    POLARIZED PLUG INFORMATION (FOR U.S.A. & CANADA ONLY) This appliance has a polarized plug (one blade wider than the other). To reduce the risk of electric shock, this plug is intended to fit in a polarized outlet only way. If the plug does not fit fully in the outlet, reverse the plug.

  • Page 10: Preparation For Threading

    8. PREPARATION FOR THREADING Setting Up the Thread Antenna Take out the thread antenna from the top of styrofoam, and insert it as shown in first illustration. This machine is shipped with the thread antenna on the top of styrofoam. Fully extend the thread antenna.

  • Page 11: How To Disengage Movable Upper Knife

    9. HOW TO DISENGAGE MOVABLE UPPER KNIFE Caution: Be sure to turn off power switch. To place movable knife in nonworking position Open front cover (page 7). Pull the movable knife holder to the right as far as it will go. Turn the holder counter clockwise until the knife clicks into the locked position.

  • Page 12: To Convert Upper Looper To 2-Thread Converter

    10. TO CONVERT UPPER LOOPER TO 2-THREAD CONVERTER Caution: Be sure to turn off power switch When not threading the upper looper, the 2-thread converter must be engaged into the upper looper eye. To Use the 2-Thread converter To engage the 2-Thread converter, insert the point of the converter into the back of the eye of upper looper.

  • Page 13: Standard Overlock And Rolled Hem Stitching

    11. STANDARD OVERLOCK AND ROLLED HEM STITCHING To Sew Standard Overlock Set seam width finger lever N to move seam width finger to standard overedge sewing position. Note: Be sure to push seam width finger lever as far as it will go in the direction of setting N.

  • Page 14: How To Remove And Insert Needles

    12. HOW TO REMOVE AND INSERT NEEDLES Overedge left needle Overedge right needle Needle Position With this machine, five needles can be inserted into the needle clamp as shown in the drawing but only one, two or three needles are to be used at one time. The Instruction manual refers to different needle positions by...

  • Page 15: Threading The Machine

    13. THREADING THE MACHINE Threading Diagram Sequence: Chain stitch 5-Thread Chain Stitch-3-Thread overlock Overlock A color coded threading diagram is located inside the front cover for quick reference. Thread the machine in the order 1 to 5 as shown at right. Note: Threads go through the take-up lever cover for Overlock and Chain stitching as shown.

  • Page 16: To Thread The Machine Correctly

    To Thread The Machine Correctly Caution: Be sure to turn off power switch. 1) Threading the Upper Looper (Green) Open the front cover and thread the upper looper as indicated in steps 1 through 9. - Raise the presser foot to release tension discs. - Thread the upper looper area of the machine following the green color-coded thread guides.

  • Page 17: Threading The Lower Looper (Blue)

    Thread the balance of the upper looper area of the machine following the green color coded thread guides. Thread the hole in the upper looper from front to back. Make sure thread passes behind lower looper. Pull about 10cm (4 inches) of thread through the looper and place to the back of the needle plate.
  • Page 18 While holding thread with finger, pass it between the tension discs and pull thread down to make certain it is properly located in between the tension discs. Thread the looper area of the machine following the blue color coded thread guides 4~10. Place the thread from right to left into thread guide.

  • Page 19: Threading The Chain/ Cover Stitch Looper (Purple)

    3) Threading the Chain and Cover stitch Looper (Purple) Open the front cover and thread the chain stitch/ cover stitch looper as indicated in steps 1 through 11. - Raise presser foot to release Tension discs. - Turn the handwheel toward you until the chain stitch looper eye extends out 5-10 mm from the needle plate edge.

  • Page 20: Threading The Overlock Right Needle (Yellow)

    Thread the looper area of the machine following the purple color-coded thread guides 4~11. Place the thread from right to left into thread guide. Place the thread from right to left into thread guide. Thread the balance of the lower looper area of the machine following the purple color-coded thread guides, placing thread in guides.
  • Page 21 Pass thread from back to the front through thread guide. Thread the top cover thread guide by pulling the thread towards the left until it slips under guide. Then pull thread along the right side of pretension disc as illustrated. While holding thread with finger, pass it between the tension discs and pull thread down to make certain it is properly located in between the tension discs.

  • Page 22: Threading The Chain Stitch Needle (Red)

    Thread the eye of the right needle from front to back. Draw about 10cm (4 inches) of thread through needle eye toward the rear of machine and place thread to the back, under the presser foot. Note: Use tweezers provided in the accessory case to aid in threading the looper.
  • Page 23 While holding thread with finger, pass it between the tension discs and pull thread down to make certain it is properly located in between the tension discs. Slip thread behind metal guide and into center slot on thread guide. Pass thread into the slot of take-up lever cover. Position thread into the center slot on the guide located at base of take-up lever cover.

  • Page 24: Threading The Cover Stitch Needles

    6) Threading the Cover Stitch Needles Cover Stitch Left Needle (red) (1) Threading the ( C on needle clamp) Thread the cover stitch left /chain stitch needle as indicated in steps 1 through 9. - Raise presser foot to release tension discs. Pass thread from back to the front through thread guide.

  • Page 25: Threading The Cover Stitch Middle/Chain Stitch Needle (Yellow)

    Slip thread behind metal guide and into rear slot on thread guide. Pass thread into the slot of take-up lever cover. Position thread in the left guide located at base of take-up lever cover. Slip thread from left to right into the thread guide located on bottom of the needle clamp.
  • Page 26 Pass thread from back to the front through thread guide 1. Thread the top cover thread guide by pulling the thread towards the left until it slips under guide. Then pull thread along the right side of pretension disc as illustrated.

  • Page 27: Threading The Cover Stitch Right Needle(Green)

    Thread the eye of the middle needle. Draw about 10cm (4 inches) of thread through needle eye to hang free. Place the thread to the back, and slightly to left under the presser foot. Note: Use of tweezers in the accessory case will make needle threading easy.
  • Page 28 While holding thread with finger, pass it between the tension discs and pull thread down to make certain it is properly located in between the tension discs. Slip thread behind metal guide and into front slot on thread guide. Pass thread into the slot of take-up lever cover. Position thread into right guide located at base of take-up lever cover.

  • Page 29: How To Change Threads / Tie On Method

    14. EASY THREAD CHANGE TIE ON METHOD To easily change thread type or color, clip thread near the spool, and remove old spool of thread. Place new thread on stand. Tie new thread and old thread ends together with a square knot.

  • Page 30: How To Adjust The Seam Width

    15. HOW TO ADJUST THE SEAM WIDTH Overlock seam width can be adjusted from narrow (using right needle) to wide (using left needle) and also with the width adjustment dial. Needle Position Width Overedge seam width can be adjusted from narrow (using right needle) to wide (using left needle).

  • Page 31: How To Adjust The Stitch Length

    16. HOW TO ADJUST THE STITCH LENGTH The stitch length dial should be set on the N setting for most sewing conditions. Adjust the stitch length to N~ 4 when sewing heavy weight fabrics. Adjust the stitch length to 2~N when sewing lightweight fabrics to obtain excellent seams without puckering.

  • Page 32: Differential Feed

    18. DIFFERENTIAL FEED Differential feed is a system which "stretches" or “gathers" the fabric, when the amount of feed of front feed dogs in relation to the rear feed dogs is changed. The differential feed ratio ranges from 1:0.6~1:2.0. Adjustment is made by means of the differential feed adjusting dial pictured at right.

  • Page 33: Stretch Overedge

    Stretch Overedge Stretch overedge is ideal for sewing decorative collars, sleeves, skirt hems, etc. on loosely knit and woven fabrics. To set the differential feed adjusting dial for stretch Set differential feed adjusting dial below setting "N". To sew a seam, apply gentle tension to the fabric by holding the seam lightly in front and back of the presser foot.

  • Page 34: Presser Foot Markings

    19. PRESSER FOOT MARKINGS A mark to indicate the needle location is provided on the front of the presser foot on this machine. Use these marks as a guide when sewing. 20. PRESSER FOOT LIFTER Put the presser foot lifter in the raised position to lower the presser foot for sewing.

  • Page 35: Selection Stitches & Auto Tension

    22. SELECTION OF STITCHES & AUTO TENSION This machine is capable of producing various types of stitches according to the combination of Auto Tension Selected, needle positions, threading methods, and the use of convertible right looper/converter. Stitch Type ATD : Auto Tension Dial Selected Reference Page A 1-needle 2-thread straight stitch is used...
  • Page 36 Stitch Type ATD : Auto Tension Dial Selected Reference Page 8. 4-Thread Chain Stitch- The 4-thread stitch is a safety stitch 2-Thread made up of combined 2-thread Overlock overedge and double chain stitch. ATD: I The 5-thread stitch is a safety stitch 9.
  • Page 37 Depending on the needle positions used, this machine can sew 2-thread and 3-thread standard width 4 mm overedge and a 6 mm wide overedge seams. Also, for overedging heavyweight fabrics, the seam width can be increased still more by turning the overedge seam width adjustment dial.

  • Page 38: Handy Reference Chart

    2 . HANDY REFERENCE CHART Tension Dial Selected : As select ATD option, Needle Stitch Type the tension dial are set automatically. Page Position Yellow Green Blue Purple Chain Stitch 4.0mm converter narrow 2-Thread Wrapped Edge Overlock 6.0mm converter wide 4.0mm converter narrow...

  • Page 39: Start And End Of Sewing

    Caution: Be sure to turn off the power switch. Move knife into nonworking position See page 10 for instructions on placing upper knife in nonworking position. To disengage upper looper Turn handwheel till drive shaft is at its most right position. Push clutch button to the left and up for cover stitch / chain stitch.

  • Page 40: Suggested Tension Setting

    24. SUGGESTED TENSION SETTING 1) Chain stitch How to Sew NEEDLE POSITION The chain stitch is sewn with 2 threads, one needle and one AUTO TENSION DIAL looper. Normally, the machine trims the fabric edge while the seam is being sewn. However, a chain stitch seam can be placed SEAM WIDTH FINGER LEVER at a desired distance from edge of fabric by putting the knife in a 2 ~ 4...

  • Page 41: 2-Thread Wrapped Edge Overlock

    2) 2-Thread Wrapped Edge Overlock NARROW WIDE Tension settings may be effected by : NEEDLE POSITION 1) Type and thickness of fabric 2) Needle size 3) Size, type and fiber content of thread AUTO TENSION DIAL D or G Note: These are suggested tension settings only. SEAM WIDTH FINGER KNOB 2 ~ 4 STITCH LENGTH...

  • Page 42: 2-Thread Overlock (Narrow-Wide)

    3) 2-Thread Overlock (NARROW-WIDE) NARROW WIDE Tension settings may be effected by : NEEDLE POSITION 1) Type and thickness of fabric 2) Needle size 3) Size, type and fiber content of thread AUTO TENSION DIAL SEAM WIDTH FINGER KNOB See page 11 for instructions on converting upper looper to 2 ~ 4 STITCH LENGTH converter.

  • Page 43: 3-Thread Overlock

    4) 3-Thread Overlock Tension settings may be effected by : NARROW WIDE 1) Type and thickness of fabric NEEDLE POSITION 2) Needle size 3) Size, type and fiber content of thread AUTO TENSION DIAL A or B Note: These are suggested tension settings only. SEAM WIDTH FINGER KNOB STITCH LENGTH DRIVING CULTCH POSITION...

  • Page 44: 3-Thread Flatlock

    5) 3-Thread Flatlock NARROW WIDE Tension settings may be effected by : NEEDLE POSITION 1) Type and thickness of fabric 2) Needle size AUTO TENSION DIAL 3) Size, type and fiber content of thread SEAM WIDTH FINGER KNOB Note: These are suggested tension settings only. 2 ~ 4 STITCH LENGTH DRIVING CULTCH POSITION...

  • Page 45: 3-Thread Mock Safety Stitch

    6) 3-Thread Mock Safety Stitch Overlock Tension settings may be effected by : NEEDLE POSITION 1) Type and thickness of fabric 2) Needle size 3) Size, type and fiber content of thread AUTO TENSION DIAL SEAM WIDTH FINGER KNOB Note: These are suggested tension settings only. 2 ~ 4 STITCH LENGTH DRIVING CULTCH POSITION...

  • Page 46: 4-Thread Mock Safely Stitch

    7) 4-Thread Mock Safety Stitch Overlock Tension settings may be effected by : 1) Type and thickness of fabric NEEDLE POSITION 2) Needle size 3) Size, type and fiber content of thread AUTO TENSION DIAL Note: These are suggested tension settings only. SEAM WIDTH FINGER KNOB STITCH LENGTH DRIVING CULTCH POSITION...

  • Page 47: 4-Thread Chain Stitch-2-Thread Overlock

    8) 4-Thread Chain Stitch-2-Thread Overlock Tension settings may be effected by : NEEDLE POSITION 1) Type and thickness of fabric 2) Needle size 3) Size, type and fiber content of thread AUTO TENSION DIAL SEAM WIDTH FINGER KNOB Note: These are suggested tension settings only. STITCH LENGTH DRIVING CULTCH POSITION CONVERTER...

  • Page 48: 5-Thread Chain Stitch-3-Thread Overlock

    9) 5-Thread Chain Stitch 3-Thread Overlock Tension settings may be effected by : NARROW WIDE NEEDLE POSITION 1) Type and thickness of fabric 2) Needle size 3) Size, type and fiber content of thread AUTO TENSION DIAL SEAM WIDTH FINGER KNOB Note: These are suggested tension settings only.

  • Page 49: How To Sew A Cover Stitch

    25. HOW TO SEW A COVER STITCH This machine can produce a 3-thread 5.6 mm wide bottom cover stitch. The cover stitch can be used for covering, binding or top-stitching necklines and for hemming the bottom, of T-shirts and sweat suits, etc.
  • Page 50 Additional Information About Cover Stitch At start of sewing Raise presser foot. Place fabric under presser foot behind the needle. Lower presser foot. Note: When you start to sew from the middle of the fabric, place the fabric at the desired of starting point of sewing.
  • Page 51 10. Cover Stitch (3-Thread) Wide/Narrow Tension settings may be effected by : NARROW WIDE NEEDLE POSITION 1) Type and thickness of fabric 2) Needle size 3) Size, type and fiber content of thread AUTO TENSION DIAL K or H SEAM WIDTH FINGER KNOB Stitch length for cover stitch should be set at over N (2.5mm) STITCH LENGTH DRIVING CULTCH POSITION...

  • Page 52: Triple Cover Stitch

    11. Triple Cover Stitch Tension settings may be effected by : NEEDLE POSITION 1) Type and thickness of fabric 2) Needle size AUTO TENSION DIAL 3) Size, type and fiber content of thread SEAM WIDTH FINGER KNOB Stitch length for cover stitch should be set at over N (2.5mm) STITCH LENGTH DRIVING CULTCH POSITION Note: These are suggested tension settings only.

  • Page 53: Securing The Seam End

    Securing the seam end Since the seams formed by cover stitch unravel when the looper thread is pulled out at the end of sewing, secure the seam end in the following manner. When sewing through to the edge of fabric, among the threads coming out of the fabric edge, knot the needle threads (2 or 3 threads) together first, as shown on the right illustration.

  • Page 54: How To Sew A Rolled Hem

    26. HOW TO SEW A ROLLED HEM Rolled hemming is done by rolling and overedging the fabric edge. Light weight fabrics such as lawn, voile, organdy, crepe, etc. perform the best. Rolled hemming is not suited for heavy or stiff fabrics. Note: Rolled hemming can only be performed with the right needle.

  • Page 55: 3-Thread Narrow Hem

    3-Thread Narrow Hem Fabric edge will roll within stitching. NEEDLE POSITION Upper and lower looper threads will interlock at the edge of AUTO TENSION DIAL stitching. SEAM WIDTH FINGER KNOB STITCH LENGTH DRIVING CULTCH POSITION CONVERTER Tension Dial Light Weight fabric Yellow Green Blue...

  • Page 56: 2-Thread Narrow Hem

    Attach 2-Thread converter to upper looper (See page 11) NEEDLE POSITION 2-Thread Narrow Hem AUTO TENSION DIAL Fabric edge will roll within stitching. SEAM WIDTH FINGER KNOB STITCH LENGTH Upper and lower looper threads will interlock at the edge of stitching.
  • Page 57 Additional Information About Rolled Hemming Hold the thread chain when you begin sewing to keep it from curling into the seam. Turn the differential feed to 0.8 or 0.6 to eliminate puckering of fine fabrics. The minimum overedge stitch width that can be obtained for rolled hemming is approximately 1.5 mm (1/16 inch) since the cutting width cannot be set below 3.5 mm (9/64 inch).

  • Page 58: Stitch Variations And Sewing Techniques

    27. STITCH VARIATIONS AND SEWING TECHNIQUES How to Sew a Flatlock Decorative Seam A flatlock stitch is achieved by adjusting the tension of the 2-thread or 3-thread overlock stitch, sewing the seam, and then pulling the fabric apart to flatten the seam. The flatlock stitch can be used as a construction and decorative stitch or for ornamentation only.

  • Page 59: Decorative Flatlocking

    Decorative Flatlocking Place the movable upper knife in the nonworking position (page 10). The fabric is not trimmed on this stitch. Fold fabric wrong sides together. Position the fabric so the seam is sewn with part of the stitch extending off the fabric. Pull on opposite sides of the stitch to flatten.

  • Page 60: How To Sew An Overlock Blindhem

    How to Sew an Overlock Blind Hem The excess fabric is trimmed and the hem is sewn and the raw edges are overlocked in one operation. The overlock blind hem is best suited for sewing knit wear. It provides a durable finish that is almost invisible. Use right needle and adjust machine for a narrow 3-thread overlock stitch.

  • Page 61: Turning Square Corners

    Fold the fabric with the wrong sides together. Sew with the stitches lying neatly on the edge of the fold. Press the pin tucks in the same direction. Turning Square Corners Outside Corner Cut out approximately 2cm (51/64 inch) from the corner, in line Cutting line with the overedge seam edge.

  • Page 62: Pin Placement

    Inside Corner Cut inside corner up to seam line as shown Seam line Sew along seam line. Sew up to end of fold. (Leave needle in fabric) Raise presser foot. (Leave needle in fabric) Needle position Spread fold and re-fold so that seam line is straight. Lower presser foot.

  • Page 63: How To Reinforce A Seam

    How to Reinforce a Seam Inserting twill tape while overedge sewing will stabilize the seam. Insert the tape through the hole in the front of the foot. Position the tape under the foot to the back of the machine and sew the garment seam. The tape is attached as the seam is sewn.

  • Page 64: Machine Maintenance

    28. MACHINE MAINTENANCE An overlock machine requires more maintenance than a conventional machine for two reasons: 1) A lot of lint is produced due to the cutting action of the knives. 2) An overlock runs at a very high speed and needs to be oiled frequently to lubricate the internal working parts.

  • Page 65: How To Replace The Moveable Knife

    How to Replace the moveable upper Knife Danger: Before replacing the moveable upper knife, disconnect power line plug from the wall receptacle. moveable knife should be changed when it becomes dull. moveable knife can be replaced according to the directions provided, however if there are any difficulties experienced, consult your dealer to make the replacement.

  • Page 66: How To Change Light Bulb

    How to Change Light Bulb Danger: Always unplug before re-lamping. Light cover screw Light bulb is available at your local retailer. Take old bulb to the retailer and ask for same bulb. If voltage indicated on the electrical rating plate of your machine is 120V, ask for light bulb conforming to following specification.

  • Page 67: Snap On Presser Foot Removal/Repiacement

    29. SNAP ON PRESSER FOOT REMOVAL/ REPIACEMENT The following optional presser feet specially prepared for this machine are available at your local retailer. Note: Do not use presser feet made for other machines. Use of such presser feet may result in interference with the needle and knife and can be hazardous.

  • Page 68: Optional Presser Feet

    30. OPTIONAL PRESSER FEET Elastic Foot This foot is used for attaching elastic tape to the garment while the amount of strech can be adjusted and remain uniform. Blindhem Foot This foot is for sewing cuffs on knit fabrics, skirt and trouser seams where seam should not be visible.

  • Page 69: Troubleshooting Chart

    31. TROUBLESHOOTING CHART Problem Solution Page - Lengthen stitch length. Fabric does not feed well - Increase presser foot pressure for heavy weight fabric. - Decrease presser foot pressure for lightweight fabric. - Insert needle correctly. Needle breaks - Do not pull fabric while sewing. - Tighten needle set screw.

  • Page 70: Fabric, Thread And Needle Guide

    32. FABRIC , THREAD AND NEEDLE GUIDE Needle Type of Fabric Type of Thread HAx1 / ELx705 WOVEN Lightweight Cotton: #100 Silk/ Rayon: #100 Lawn, Organdy, Voile, Spun: #80 ~ #90 Crepe, etc. #11/80 Polyester: #80 ~ #100 Cotton: #60 ~ #80 Medium Weight Silk/ Rayon: #50 #14/90, #11/80...

  • Page 71: Specification

    33. SPECIF CATION Specification Item Sewing speed 1,300 spm maximum Stitch length (feed amount) 1~4 mm (standard: rolled hemming 1-2, ordinary overedge N=2.5) 1:0.6 ~ 1:2 (with differential feed machine) Differential feed ratio Overedge stitch width Rolled hemming 1.5 mm, ordinary overedge 3.0 ~ 9.8 mm (standard 4 mm) Cover stitch needle gauge Two needles: 2.8 mm (narrow), 5.6 mm (wide)

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