warranty does not cover any component parts damaged by use or modification. In no case shall Top Flite's liability exceed the original cost of the purchased
kit. Further, Top Flite reserves the right to change or modify this warranty without notice. In that Top Flite has no control over the final assembly or material
used for final assembly, no liability shall be assumed nor accepted for any damage resulting from the use by the user of the final user-assembled product.
By the act of using the user-assembled product the user accepts all resulting liability. If the buyer is not prepared to accept the liability associated with the
use of this product, the buyer is advised to immediately return this kit in new and unused condition to the place of purchase.
Top Flite Models P.O. Box 788 Urbana, Il 61803
READ THROUGH THIS INSTRUCTION BOOK FIRST. IT CONTAINS IMPORTANT INSTRUCTIONS AND WARNINGS CONCERNING THE ASSEMBLY AND USE OF THIS MODEL.
Summary of Contents for Top Flite Models P-39 AIRACOBRA
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WARRANTY..Top Flite Models guarantees this kit to be free of defects in both material and workmanship at the date of purchase. This warranty does not cover any component parts damaged by use or modification. In no case shall Top Flite’s liability exceed the original cost of the purchased kit.
Sheet the top of the wing ......33 aerobatics such as loops, stall turns, rolls, etc. Its Fit the wing to the fuselage......35 Your P-39 Airacobra is not a toy, but a sophisticated structure is designed to withstand such stresses. If you FINISH THE LOWER FUSELAGE ....36...
Recommended engine size: (217) 398-8970 or e-mail us at www.top-flite.com you are eager to build and fly your P-39 Airacobra .61 to .75 cu. in. [10cc to 13cc] 2-stroke and we'll be glad to help. If you are calling for just as we were eager to build and fly our prototypes.
3. The position of the retractable landing gear has model to learn with. The extra effort to construct the If you plan to enter your P-39 Airacobra in scale been moved 1/2" [13mm] aft to allow a scale 4" P-39 Airacobra with flaps is well worth the effort when competition, this kit qualifies for Fun Scale and the [100mm] wheel to clear the wing spar.
These are additional items you will need to complete Here's a checklist of supplies you should have on your P-39 Airacobra that are not included with your hand while you're building. Some of these are Top Flite Heat Gun (TOPR2000) kit.
(continued from page 5) Whenever just epoxy is specified you may use either Metric Conversion Chart 30-minute epoxy or 6-minute epoxy. When 30-minute 1” = 25.4mm (conversion factor) 12' [300mm] roll of Adhesive-backed sandpaper: epoxy is specified it is highly recommended that you 1/64"...
BUILD THE TAIL SURFACES MAKE THE STAB SKINS 1. Use the Hot Tip that follows or your own method to glue two 1/16" x 3" x 30" [1.6 x 76 x 762mm] balsa sheets together to make a 1/16" x 6" x 30" [1.6 x 152 x 762mm] sheet for one of the stab skins.
2. Place one of the balsa skins over the stab plan and cut the sheeting as shown in the sketch below. Be sure to cut the balsa skins slightly larger than the plan to allow for positioning. 6. Fit the Stab LE Brace into the slot in rib S1. Test fit S1 and the stab brace as shown on the plan.
WEIGHT BAGS 12. Cut the stab hinge blocks from one of the 10. Sheet the top of the stab with one of the stab 1/4" x 3/4" x 30" [6.4 x 19.1 x 762mm] balsa sticks. skins you've already prepared. We recommend Glue the hinge blocks to the TE, ribs, and top using aliphatic resin to glue the skin to the ribs and sheeting where shown on the plan.
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6. Use a piece of leftover 1/16" [1.6mm] 10. Carefully cut away the center section of the sheeting to make the elevator root cap. Glue the elevator leading edge so the elevators match the root cap into position. shape as shown on the plan. Note which elevator matches which side of the stab.
Build the fin and rudder 1. Tape the fuse plan to your building board. Cover the fin and rudder portion of the plan with Plan Protector. 12. Using the sketch above, cut six hinges from the CA hinge strip supplied with this kit. Snip the corners off so they go into the slots easier.
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6. Glue the die-cut 1/8” balsa fin TE to the fin 14. Glue the second fin skin in position on the fin. TE spar. Take care not to twist the fin when gluing the fin skin in place. 15. At this point set the fin aside and proceed with the assembly of the rudder.
BUILD THE FUSELAGE 7. Locate the two formers F1 and F1A. Using 6-minute epoxy, glue the two F1 formers together and then the two F1A formers and set them aside Frame the Fuselage top to dry. Do not glue the F1 and F1A formers together at this time.
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stringers will be referred to as just stringers). Cut the fit, cut the excess sheeting at F4. Glue the sheeting other end of the stringers so they end in the middle of to the two side stringers, the main stringer, the stab former F3.
Mount the stab and fin 1. Remove the elevators from the stab. 7. Test fit the fin on the fuselage at former F10. Sand a little of the stab where the leading edge comes together. This is necessary to give proper clearance for the leading edge of the fin to attach to the front of 2.
Sheet the top of the fuselage Before proceeding with sheeting the top of the fuselage, you need to decide how you are going to finish the cockpit area. You have the option of creating a full cockpit or simply gluing a pilot bust under the canopy.
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CONSTRUCTION WITHOUT A FULL COCKPIT INTERIOR 5. Cut away former F3 and IP as shown in 8. After the fillet has been glued into place use some the photograph. Lightweight Hobby Filler (Balsa Color, HCAR3401) to fill any gaps and create a smooth fillet. If you are choosing not to have a full cockpit interior, make a deck out of the 1/16"...
Build The Bottom Of The Fuselage 10. Cut out the ABS plastic exhaust stacks. After trimming, mark "left"on one and "right" on the other, on the back of each piece so you are sure to get a 1. Place the fuselage upside down in a stand. We good fit when doing the final assembly.
6. Test fit formers F1A, F3A and F6A to the wing 11. Locate the 1/8" x 2-3/4" x 2-3/4"[3.2 x 70 x 16. Glue the servo mounting rails into position as saddle. The formers and saddle have been notched 70mm] firewall backplate. Glue it to the back of F1 shown on the plan (See photo at Step 21.) to allow the structure to interlock together.
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removable. It will be a little tedious and may require you to do a little shaping, but the end result will be fairly easy tank removal if needed. 21. Locate five die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] ply guide tube holders. Drill a 3/16" [4.8mm] hole through the 24.
29. Trial fit the floor assembly with the fuel tank Install the Engine into the fuselage. Be sure that the aft end of the floor is resting against the basswood block you glued in. Mark a line on the firewall where the floor rests. Remove the tank and floor.
Step 41 - 43 apply only for the fixed gear installation. Skip to step R1 if you are installing retracts. R2. Locate the 1/4" x 1" x 12" [6.4 x 25.4 x 305mm] plywood nose gear rail. Cut two rails to match the pattern on the plan.
48. Install the engine onto the engine mount and BUILD THE WING put the prop nut back on the engine to hold the spinner backplate tight to the nose ring spacers. NOTE: The wing panels are built "UPSIDE-DOWN" on the plan. Since it is the standard procedure to 49.
punch marks in the two die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] plywood Flap Bellcrank Plates. Assemble the bellcrank parts as shown in the sketch (don't worry, there is no right and left - you can't build them backwards). Put a drop of 6-minute epoxy on the 4-40 blind nut and threads to prevent the bellcrank from vibrating loose.
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16. When you have the correct curvature, glue 11. Position W1 onto the spars. Locate the die-cut the leading edge to the front of the ribs. 1/8” dihedral gauge (DG). Use the gauge to set the 20. When the glue has cured, drill a 3/16" angle of W1 when it is fit into the spars.
If you have installed the fixed gear, skip the R2. Cut the grooved landing gear block to 5-3/4" following 6 steps. [146mm] in length. Test fit this into the notches in the wing. When you are satisfied with the fit, use 30- Retract Installation (Main Gears) minute epoxy to glue the plywood rail and the landing gear block into place.
Sheet The Bottom Of The Wing 1. Remove the T-pins. Use a sanding bar to sand the LE, TE spars and ribs so they are smooth and even. Be careful not to change the shape of the ribs. 5. After the glue has dried, cut away the openings for the landing gear and the aileron servo hatch.
2. Locate four die-cut Wing Bolt Mounting Plates. Glue two of them together with 5-minute epoxy. Do the same for the remaining two plates. 4. Use some coarse sandpaper to roughen the inside of the ply hatch and the end of the mounting block.
3. Locate a 1/4" x 3/4" x 24" [6.4 x 19.1 x Build the Flaps 610mm] balsa stick and mark a centerline on both sides of it. Glue the aileron core on the centerline. Perform steps 1-20 only if you are building working Use the same procedure that was used in making flaps.
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Make the right flap first, followed by the left flap. of 1/16" [1.6mm] sheeting that was left over from the 12.Test fit the flap to the trailing edge of the trimmed wing sheeting. Use the plan to cut the sheet wing.
16. Locate the 2-56 ball, ball link socket and sheeting to make the skin for the flap area. Edge 2-56 nut. Attach the ball through FR3D and FR3 and glue the two skins together and cut them to fit onto retain it with the nut.
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Perform step 11 only if you are not building working flaps. 11. Glue the final portion of the wing skin into position on the ribs and to the bottom wing skin at the wing TE. 12. Do the same for the other side of the wing. 8.
4. From the front of the fuselage, drill two 1/4" holes through the existing holes in F3 and F3A and into the ply LE dowel brace of the wing. Make sure 15. Using the 1/8" [3.2mm] pilot hole as a guide, 2.
CA into the threads to harden them. Allow the CA to Nose Gear Steering cure fully. Run the tap through the threads again to Pull-Pull System installation. clean up the threads. Drill out the holes in the Wing Bolt Plate only with a 17/64" [6.7mm] bit. This step is only if you have retracts installed.
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6. Cut out the two plastic wing fillets. Sand the inside edges of the fillets to improve the glue bond. 9. Once the fairing is glued in place, trim away the excess 1/32" [0.8mm] plywood sheeting. Blend the 3. Glue former F1F into position on the stringers fairing to the fuse with a lightweight filler.
the top of the fuselage. Sand that area so that when the canopy is attached it will be flush with the fuselage. 2. Cut the plastic cowl to fit the right side of the fuselage. Locate the die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] balsa cowl ring.
will provide clearance when mounting the cowl. Be Mount the Receiver and Battery sure to only drill the clearance hole in F1CM, not the firewall. Apply some thin CA to the holes in the balsa We found there was more than adequate room to cowl ring and F1CM to harden them.
3. With the wing level, carefully lift the model by the 4. Some modelers have three irons going at once: nose and the aft end of the fuselage under the stab one on high heat without a Hot Sock for stretching (this may require two people).
Covering sequence slightly. Leave the paint in the open container, stirring shaped cutouts from poster board. Hold the cutouts every 15 minutes until no more foam appears on the away from the model approximately 1" to 2" and surface of the paint and the paint has warmed to spray the olive drab over the tan.
you join the elevators to the stab, remove the stab FINISHING TOUCHES cardboard for special areas like the exit door or other and insert a pin in the center of the hinges to keep hatches. Some cleaners will remove the ink lines, so them centered.
3. Make sure the control surfaces move in the Recommended Control Surface Throws proper direction as illustrated in the following sketch. Low Rate High Rate Aileron 3/8" up 5/8" up 4-CHANNEL RADIO SETUP 3/8" down 5/8" down [9.5mm] [15.9mm] (STANDARD MODE 2) Elevator 5/16"...
We use a Top Flite Precision Magnetic Prop Get help from an experienced pilot when you are AMA SAFETY CODE (excerpts) Balancer (TOPQ5700) in the workshop and keep a learning to operate engines. Great Planes Fingertip Prop Balancer (GPMQ5000) Read and abide by the following Academy of Model in our flight box.
Choose from dozens of Flat Finish and high- rate on this airplane is fairly slow, so don't expect it to the full-size P-39 Airacobra. Top Flite includes gloss colors. drop out of the sky when you pull back on the power.
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If you enjoyed building the Top Flite P-39, try one of these other outstanding .60 size Gold Edition kits as your next project. Top Flite Corsair Top Flite P-40E Warhawk TOPA0101 TOPA0120 62” Wing span 7-9.5 lbs 64” Wing span 8-10.5 lbs Top Flite P-51 Top Flite Spitfire MK IX...
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Top Flite 1/7 Scale Warbird Pilot TOPQ9000 Top Flite Bonanza Make your cockpit come alive with this paintable WWII American pilot. Featuring TOPA0305 fewer than a dozen pieces, it's made of a soft plastic that can be positioned in lifelike attitudes. Use it as a full body or pilot bust. 81”...
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TWO-VIEW Use this drawing or photocopy it and use the copies to plan your trim scheme.
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