Top Flite Models Cessna 182 Skylane Instruction Book
  1. Manuals
  2. Brands
  3. Top Flite Models Manuals
  4. Toy
  5. Cessna 182 Skylane
  6. Instruction book

Top Flite Models Cessna 182 Skylane Instruction Book

Hide thumbs
Table of Contents

Advertisement

Quick Links

WARRANTY.....
materials and workmanship at the date of purchase. This warranty does not cover any component parts
damaged by use or modification. In no case shall Top Flite's liability exceed the original cost of the
purchased kit. Further, Top Flite reserves the right to change or modify this warranty without notice.
In that Top Flite has no control over the final assembly or material used for final assembly, no
liability shall be assumed nor accepted for any damage resulting from the use by the user of the final
user-assembled product. By the act of using the user-assembled product the user accepts all
resulting liability.
If the buyer is not prepared to accept the liability associated with the use of this product, the
buyer is advised to immediately return this kit in new and unused condition to the place of purchase.
READ THROUGH THIS INSTRUCTION BOOK FIRST. IT CONTAINS IMPORTANT INSTRUCTIONS AND WARNINGS CONCERNING THE ASSEMBLY AND USE OF THIS MODEL.
Entire Contents © Copyright 1994
Top Flite Models guarantees this kit to be free of defects in both
Top Flite Models
P.O. Box 721
Urbana, IL 61801
Technical Assistance - Call (217) 398-8970
™
CES6P03
V1.0

Advertisement

Table of Contents
loading
Need help?

Need help?

Do you have a question about the Cessna 182 Skylane and is the answer not in the manual?

Questions and answers

Subscribe to Our Youtube Channel

Related Manuals for Top Flite Models Cessna 182 Skylane

Summary of Contents for Top Flite Models Cessna 182 Skylane

  • Page 1 ™ WARRANTY..Top Flite Models guarantees this kit to be free of defects in both materials and workmanship at the date of purchase. This warranty does not cover any component parts damaged by use or modification. In no case shall Top Flite’s liability exceed the original cost of the purchased kit.

  • Page 2: Table Of Contents

    TABLE OF CONTENTS AND BUILDING SEQUENCE INTRODUCTION ........... 3 BUILD THE FUSELAGE......28 FINAL HOOKUPS AND CHECKS....51 Build the Fuselage Bottom Frame ....28 Flap and Aileron Control Hookup ....51 PRECAUTIONS ..........4 Sheet the Fuselage Bottom Frame....31 Install Receiver, Battery, and Antenna..51 Fuel Proof and Paint the interior....33 Control Surface Throws .......52 DECISIONS YOU MUST MAKE EARLY...

  • Page 3: Introduction

    Your Cessna 182 Skylane is not a toy, but the surface details and finish. With the designed for and tested in the Skylane and other...

  • Page 4: Precautions

    The Cessna 182 Skylane will fly well with The flaps are not difficult to assemble, but must make certain that the model has remained any of the recommended engines.

  • Page 5: Operational Lighting

    work from photos of a full-size aircraft when Optional: The flaps require one extra channel, a finishing your model because that is what you Y-harness, and two standard servos. They are will need for judging documentation. For Fuel Filler Valve (Great Planes GPMQ4160 a highly recommended fun option for those who dimensional accuracy, the Top Flite Cessna 182 recommended)

  • Page 6: Common Abbreviations

    COMMON ABBREVIATIONS USED IN THIS Nylon Strapping Tape Metric Conversion Chart BOOK AND ON THE PLANS: (required for bending sheeting) Inches x 25.4 = mm (conversion factor) Masking Tape (required for construction) 1/64” .4 mm Deg = Degrees Sandpaper (coarse, medium, fine grit)* 1/32”...

  • Page 7: Die-Cut Patterns

    DIE-CUT PATTERNS...

  • Page 8: Die-Cut Patterns

    DIE-CUT PATTERNS...

  • Page 9: Get Ready To Build

    Get ready to build BUILD THE TAIL SURFACES FIN / STAB LE 1. Unroll the plan sheets. Re-roll the plans inside-out to make them lie flat. 4. Cut the stab Leading Edges (LE’s) to Build the horizontal stabilizer length from the 1/4” x 15” tapered balsa stock. They should be about 1/4”...

  • Page 10: Tips For Making Wing & Stab Skins

    7. Pin the left and right S-3 and S-6 ribs to 9. Glue the two die-cut 3/32” balsa Stab the building board over their locations on the Gussets into the junction of S-6 and the Stab 12. Glue the 1/4” x 1/2” x 7/8” balsa Stab plans.
  • Page 11 for misalignment. On a large surface such as the wing, 3/8” extra is suggested. 13" 12-1/8" 3" STAB SKIN STAB SKIN D. To make skins, the following steps are suggested: 12-1/8" 13" 18. Test-fit the skins over the stab frame. 1.

  • Page 12: Build The Elevators

    CA to all of the upward facing edges on one side 2. Use the pattern on the plans to cut four of the stab frame. Place a skin on the frame and Elevator skins. Sort the skins so that the best hold it in place with your hands until the glue surfaces will be facing outward, and on the top.
  • Page 13 block (the one that will contact the elevator’s LE) to match the angle of the LE. Glue the Torque Rod block in position when you are satisfied with the fit. 8. Carefully sand the top of the Torque Rod block flush with the taper of the ribs. 12.

  • Page 14: Build The Fin

    Build the fin 1. Cover the Fin/Rudder section of the plans with waxed paper. 2. Punch out the die-cut 3/32” balsa ribs V-1 through V-6. Be sure to preserve their jig tabs. NOTE: If you plan to install an operational 18.

  • Page 15: Build The Rudder

    angle of the rudder. Lightly sand both sides of Build the rudder the rudder LE to match the angle toward the aft edge of the rudder. 30" 4. Re-pin the rudder skin over the plans. Glue the rudder LE to the surface of the rudder skin, 3"...

  • Page 16: Build The Wing

    Okay, the tail feathers are more or less 8. True up all rudder edges with a sanding block. complete, so by now you are on a roll. The stab looks like the wing for a .20-size model, doesn’t it? We’ll build the wing next so you’ll really have 9.
  • Page 17 Spars to the plan using the method shown in the sketch. The Center Spar is a little longer than actually needed to allow for the dihedral angle at W-3. It will be trimmed to size later. NOTE: Do not use any CA until step 11. 8.

  • Page 18: Build Outer Wing Panels

    WING TE 14. Cut a 9-1/4” length from a 3/32” x 1/2” x 30” tapered balsa TE stick. Look at the cross section on the fuse plan for the angle of the TE. 2. Cut four 1/8” x 3/8” x 24” hard balsa Center the TE on the aft edge of the center Outer Spar Doublers to 22-3/4”.
  • Page 19 9. Check that the upward-facing edges of the ribs and the top surface of the Aft Spars are even and that all of the jig tabs are touching the work surface or shims. When everything is aligned, wick thin CA into all joints. Wick thin CA into all seams around the mating surfaces of W-6 and W-7.

  • Page 20: Prepare The Polyhedral Braces

    support the flap and aileron servo hatches. Well, that about wraps up the framing for half of Install the rails even if you don’t plan to add the wing. Take a short break to admire your handiwork, have a cup of coffee, clean the CA off flaps, as they add a little extra strength and fill in the notches.

  • Page 21: Join The Wing Panels

    You should now have a right hand and a left weight to hold it in place (a few magazines or hand set of Polyhedral Braces, as shown in the small sandbags are handy for this). Prepare 1/2 photo. Tracing around the edges of the two ounce of 30-Minute Epoxy.

  • Page 22: Sheet The Bottom Of The Wing

    block to smooth out the curvature. For more information on making wing skins refer back to page 10 for the Hot Tip. NOTE: Do the following steps for both the right and left wing panels. 1. Sort through the remaining 1/16” x 3” x 36” 6.
  • Page 23 a few minutes. Cut the 14-1/2” sheets to the fit the uncovered area of the flaps. Use a leftover piece of 1/16” balsa sheeting to make two triangular pieces to fill in remaining un-sheeted area. The best balsa filler is no balsa filler! Take 10.

  • Page 24: Prepare The Wing Panels For The Flaps

    tips, use the string technique described in the Prepare the wing panels previous step, or glue two large-diameter for the flaps pushrod tubes (not supplied) inside the wing, ahead of the spars, to serve as a conduit for the wires. Do the following steps if you are building operational flaps.

  • Page 25: Wing Completion

    NOTE: Use the same procedure to sheet the 3. Square off the wing tips with a T-bar. top of the wing as you used for the bottom. 5. Cut the top Center Panel Skin from the skin you made earlier. Remember that it should line up with the dividing line between ribs W-3 and W-4.
  • Page 26 6. Tape the Aileron back into position. Mark 10. Use a long carving blade to carve away the tip end with a straightedge placed along W- most of the excess wood and rough in the shape 12. Refer to the plans for the aileron horn 14.

  • Page 27: Build The Flaps

    together, cut the inboard and outboard ends of 7. Shape the Flap LE to match the cross BUILD THE FLAPS the Flaps free with a hobby knife or razor saw. section on the plans. A razor plane, whittling knife, and coarse sandpaper help the job go quickly.

  • Page 28: Build The Fuselage

    2. Assemble the two Flap Drill Guides 5. Plug the flaps with the hinges into the (A&B) by gluing the six die-cut 1/8” ply pieces wing. Check the fit and run the flaps through 2. Use 30-Minute Epoxy to glue the following as shown.
  • Page 29 sides, that run from F-1 to F-9 as shown in the photograph. Starting at F-9, check the former angle once again with the Former Angle template. Make sure that you straighten out any twists, then glue the stringers to F-9 with thin CA.
  • Page 30 When everything is locked in place, glue the assembly together. The 3/16” side stringers may now be trimmed flush with the forward edge of F-1. 12. Lightly sand the outside of the two 36” 15. Glue the 1/8” die-cut ply Nose Gear outer pushrod tubes then insert them through Doubler to the aft side of F-1.

  • Page 31: Sheet The Fuselage Bottom Frame

    the Main Stringer. Use Thin CA, wiping up any into the joint, but wipe off any excess before it excess before it dries. Repeat for the other side. cures. Avoid using CA accelerator as it will These Sub-Stringers will provide a ledge for the create lumps along the seam that will cause side sheeting.
  • Page 32 11. Apply medium CA to all frame parts 13. Use the same sheeting technique as 16. Clean up the inside edges of the that the sheet will contact except the top Steps 7-11 to sheet from F-3 forward to F-2. Use sheeting along the third stringer with a T-bar and stringer.

  • Page 33: Fuelproof And Paint The Interior

    servo tray. We used K & B Black Super Poxy paint rubber cement. Cut out the custom horn shape with satin catalyst to do both jobs at one time. with a razor saw and grinding wheel. Drill the clevis holes with a 1/16” bit. Install pushrods and servos Remove the hull (I meant to say fuselage) from the building board, and install the landing gear...
  • Page 34 NOTE: Test fit the entire following assembly (Steps 2-5) before using any glue. 8. Draw an “X” from corner to corner on two 5. Use epoxy to glue F-1B to the top edge of 5/16” x 3/4” x 7/8” basswood Strut Blocks to F-1 and the Tank Roof.

  • Page 35: Install Nose Gear Steering

    15. Press down on the middle of the Wing Saddle Brace until it is about 1/16” below the top edge of the Cabin Side, then wick thin CA along the seam to hold it in position. When cured, add a fillet of medium CA to the joint to secure it in place.

  • Page 36: Install The Engine And Tank

    its correct length, then insert it from the servo Screws, #8 Flat Washers and #8 Lock Washers. location through F-1 into the Connector on the Use the index marks on the Firewall to center Nose Wheel Steering Arm. Clip the Metal Clevis the Engine Mount.

  • Page 37: Engine Servo Option

    NOTE: Due to the variety of hook-up 9. Mark and drill 1/4” fuel tube holes through methods preferred by different modelers, we the firewall, being careful not to damage the tank. do not provide any throttle linkage hardware Install both the fuel supply and pressure tubes. in most of our kits.
  • Page 38 with the fit, pin the Fin in position. Carefully 3. When the Stab is aligned with the Fuse, measure from the Fin tip to the Stab tips to draw light reference marks on the Stab to help double check your “eyeball” method and to be you accurately reposition it after the glue has sure that your sanding is accurate.

  • Page 39: Tips For Silver Soldering

    dash of microballoons to “thicken it up” and B. Roughen the area to be soldered with fine create a fillet. Apply the epoxy mixture to the LE, sandpaper, then clean again. TE and bottom of the Fin. Align the Fin, and press it into position.
  • Page 40 sand the aft areas to fit closely with the Stab and 8. Draw a centerline from the middle of the Fin the Fin. Trim the length even with the LE along the top of the fuse to F-5B. The tip of overhanging stringers at F-5B.

  • Page 41: Mount The Wing To The Fuselage

    11. Sand the shaped 1/4” balsa Dorsal Fillet to blend with the top of the Dorsal Fin and the 16. Glue the two 1/32” x 3/8” x 4-5/8” birch ply Fin’s LE. Glue it in place, then sand it to blend strips to the forward sides of F-2B.

  • Page 42: Hinge The Control Surfaces

    one end attached to a pin centered at the tail) sandpaper. Clean the “arms” thoroughly with HINGE THE CONTROL out to a wing tip. Put a piece of tape on the rubbing alcohol. Work a generous amount of string to mark the intersection of the string and 30-Minute Epoxy into the wire joiner holes in SURFACES the wing tip.

  • Page 43: Fuselage Finishing Touches

    3. Install three hinges in the Rudder and Fin assembly. Do steps 4 and 5 after the model is covered. 4. Pack 30-Minute Epoxy into the tiller hole in the Rudder, then install the Rudder in the same 2. Trim the left and right ABS plastic Tail manner as the Elevators.

  • Page 44: Assemble The Cowl

    IMPORTANT: Hot air generated by the Assemble the cowl Fit the cowl to the fuselage engine MUST be vented from the cowl or and engine your engine will overheat and quit! While we experienced no overheating problems with our engine running slightly rich and both air 1.

  • Page 45: Assemble And Install Wheel Pants

    2. Position a Main Landing Gear strut in the 4. Tape the Cowl on the front of the fuse. 7. Remove the control extensions (and 4- recessed portion of the lower section of the Extend the centerlines you drew in step 2 stroke engine if that is what you have chosen) but Wheel Pant, 5/16”...
  • Page 46 axle in place. Check that the wheel still rotates 6. Roughen the mating area of both Wheel without binding. Put a drop of thin CA on the Pant halves with coarse sandpaper. Tape the outer hex nut to lock it in place. upper half of the Wheel Pant in position, then wick thin CA around the seam.

  • Page 47: Install Wing Struts And Fairings

    propped up so it can’t fall over) fill the Fairing Fuel proofing Install wing struts and fairings cavity to the brim with a 30-Minute Epoxy and microballoon mixture. When the epoxy has NOTE: See the wing plan for a view of the cured, fill the other end in the same manner.

  • Page 48: Cover The Structure With Monokote

    DO NOT, under any circumstances, attempt piece of MonoKote film about 2” larger than Cover the structure with MonoKote ® to cut the covering material after it has the area to be covered. Strip off the backing been applied to the Fin and Stab, except and position the film.

  • Page 49: Painting

    We painted all Landing Gear assemblies Painting intact. The wheels were masked off with paper stuffed into the Wheel Pants. By painting the Paints used on the prototype: Landing Gear in this manner, all the par ts We used K&B Super Poxy primer and color blended together much better than if we had coat for all plastic and Butyrate parts.

  • Page 50: Cockpit Finishing

    5. Add any other cockpit details of your Cockpit finishing choosing at this time. 1. Sand the inside of the cockpit with 320-grit 6. Trim the Front Windshield to the cut-lines sandpaper. True up any uneven edges in the cockpit area. then glue it to the model.

  • Page 51: Final Hookups And Checks

    A FEW WORDS ABOUT holes into the Ailerons at the proper horn FINAL HOOKUPS OPTIONAL LIGHTING locations. Screw the horns in place with #2 x 3/8” sheet metal screws. AND CHECKS Scale lights make a model like this Cessna come to life. We added a rotating beacon, dual NOTE: Put a couple of drops of thin CA landing lights and position lights (see page 5 for into each screw hole before reattaching...

  • Page 52: Control Surface Throws

    NOTE: The surface throws and balance for 3. We installed a pushrod tube (not included CONTROL SURFACE THROWS: this aircraft have been extensively tested. We in the kit) along the bottom inside surface of the are confident that they represent the settings fuse, to serve as a conduit for the antenna.

  • Page 53: Preflight

    to slow down for landing. Moving the balance aft and transmitter on, you should be able to walk at Find a safe place to fly makes the model more agile, gives it a lighter least 100 feet away from the model and still have “feel”...

  • Page 54: Ama Safety Code

    For this reason the fuel mixture should be set to full- scale aircraft. run the engine at about 200 rpm below peak The Top Flite Cessna 182 Skylane is a great-flying, (maximum) speed. By running the engine 3. Where established, I will abide by the safety...

  • Page 55: Takeoff

    rate" elevator may be required for spins. Though Takeoff Landing the full scale Cessna 182 is not rated for aerobatics, the Top Flite 182 is capable of some If you have dual rates on your transmitter, set the graceful aerobatic maneuvers. A beautiful barrel When it's time to land, fly a normal landing pattern switches to "high rate"...
  • Page 56 2-VIEW DRAWING Use this layout for trim scheme planning only. Not suitable for scale documentation.

Table of Contents