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Columbia Coronado 25 Owenrs Manual

Coronado 25 columbia
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Summary of Contents for Columbia Coronado 25

  • Page 2: Table Of Contents

    TABLE OF CONTENTS SECTION INTRODUCTION SECTION BILL OF MATERIAL - DEFINED AND EXPLAINED Fiberglass Resins & Catalysts Gelcoat Marine Wood Products Fasteners Suppliers and Vendor List SECTION TECHNIQUES Gelcoat Touch-up and Repair Micro Balloon Filled Resin Bonding Cutting, Drilling, and Grinding Winterization Anti-fouling Protective Coating SECTION...
  • Page 3 Hull/Deck Joints 5.2.1 Hull/Deck Joint with "H" Metal 5.2.2 Hull/Deck Joint without "H" Metal Bulkheads and Structural Woodwork Engine and Fuel Tanks Thru-Hull Installations Chainplates Rudder Assembly Keeling Procedure Plumbing and Water Tanks 5.10 Stove and Tank Installation 5.11 Windows 5.12 Deck Hardware 5.13 Exterior wood 5.14 Electrical System...
  • Page 4 SECTION I INTRODUCTION This Builders Instruction Manual has been prepared by experts with a great deal of knowledge and experience in the field of fiber glass boat building. This knowledge and experience is represented in the pages you are about to read.

  • Page 5: Bill Of Material - Defined And Explained

    SECTION 2 BILL OF MATERIAL - Defined and Explained Fiberglass There are three different types of fiberglass reinforcements: a) Mat b) Cloth c) Woven Roving Depending on the "Lamination Schedule" or area of construction, these three types of fiberglass are combined. The fiber glass MAT is a very strong material and is designated by the approximate weight per square foot: 3.0 oz.

  • Page 6: Gelcoat

    SECTION 2 Page 2 2.2 (continued) Before the resin can be applied to fiber glass for a "bond" or lay-up", it has to be catalyzed. The catalyst is an "agent" which works chemically to cure the resin into a solid state. Once a batch of resin has been "catalyzed", the "pot life", or time remaining in which the resin can be worked effectively before it turns into a solid mass, is very limited: Catalyzation of resin should be at the rate of 1/2 to...

  • Page 7: Fasteners

    SECTION 2 Page 3 (continued) hardwood. Grab rails, toe rails, winch pads, and other pieces of woodwork located on the deck should be made out of oiled teak. Fiberglass bonds to teak wood are not reliable because of the high oil content of this wood. To bond on teak plywood, which has a fir core, the teak outer surface must be removed to the core.
  • Page 8 21 West Street New York, N.Y. WOOLSEY BRAND PAINT STORE BALBOA MARINE Newport Beach, Calif. CUSHIONS JOHANSEN & CHRISTENSEN 898 W. 16th Costa Mesa, Calif. MARSHALL & SONS 14903 Lakewood Paramount, Ca. Columbia Yachts, Portsmouth f/excess stock SC-23, SC-2`_ SC28, SC-36...
  • Page 9 HEADS - SELF CONTAINED MONOGRAM INDUSTRIES 6357 Arizona Circle Los Angeles, 9Q045 HEADLINERS JOHANSEN & CHRISTENSEN 898 W. 16th Street Costa Mesa, COLUMBIA YACHT CORP. Portsmouth, Virginia HOSE - DUCTALL INDUSTRIAL HOSE & RUBBER 2816 E 11th Street Los Angeles, Calif.
  • Page 10 SECTION 2 Page 6 (continued) LIFELINES & GATES R. C. MARINE 17422 Armstrong Santa Ana, Calif. LIFELINE WIRE LOOS & CO. Ponfrett, Conn. PELICAN HOOKS & FITTINGS WILCOX CRITTEN Guilford, Conn. HOOD INDUSTRIES Bakersfield, Calif. LIGHTS - INTERIOR FIXTURES Local marine hardware LO VOLT 2364 E.
  • Page 11 SECTION 2 Page 7 LUMBER - MAHOGANY THOMPSON MAHOGANY 7400 Edmund Philadelphia, Pa. BRUSH LUMBER 7653 Telegraph Montebello, Calif. SPAR LUMBER C0. 1325 Harbor Long Beach, Calif. - PLYWOOD U. S. PLYWOOD 2662 E. Del Amo Blvd. Compton, Calif. 90224 STEWART PLYWOOD 14051 So.
  • Page 12 Section 2 Page 8 POLYESTER RESIN LENOIR COATINGS & RESIN Lenoir, North Carolina RAM CHEMICAL 210 E. Alondra Gardena.' Calif. Local marine hardware PROPELLER (Bronze) COLUMBIAN BRONZE Freeport, Long Island, New York AAA Propeller Service 127 Industrial Way Costa Mesa, Calif. PULPITS (Bow &...
  • Page 13 SECTION 2 Page 9 SCREWS, STAINLESS STEEL ITT HARPER 7307 Pulaski Hwy Baltimore, Md. LAVENDAR FASTENERS 884 W. 18th St. Costa Mesa, Ca. Local marine hardware SINKS, STAINLESS STEEL VOLRATH Sheybogan, Wisc. Ziegler Harris 11341 San Fernando Rd. San Fernando, Ca. Local marine hardware STOVES, ALCOHOL &...
  • Page 14 SECTION 2 Page 10 RUB RAIL - RUBBER VIP RUBBER 945 So. East Street Anaheim, Calif. Wefco Rubber Products 1655 Euclid Santa Monica, Ca. WATER HEATERS AMERICAN APPLIANCE 2425 Michigan Santa Monica, Ca. GALLEY MAID Riviera Beach, Fla. Local marine hardware WATER PRESSURE PUMP PETERS &...

  • Page 15: Techniques

    SECTION 3 Page 1 TECHNIQUES Gel Coat Touch-up and Repair Minor abrasions and scratches can be removed from gel coat with an abrasive automobile polish followed by a wax polish such as Johnsons "J Wax Kit". More serious damage and flashing areas should be ground until smooth and fair with a disk or belt sander using 60 grit cutting surface.

  • Page 16: Micro Balloon Filled Resin

    SECTION 3 Page 2 Micro Balloon Filled Resin Micro Balloons mixed with a polyester resin will yield micro balloon filled resin, which is used in yacht construction for casting, fairing, and sealing. Its "pot life" is longer and, therefore, cures more slowly than pure resin. The slower curing time allows more "working pot life time"...

  • Page 17: Cutting, Drilling, And Grinding

    SECTION 3 Page 3 (Continued) All gel coat should be sanded off. Sanding should be done with coarse paper (min. 40 grit). Bonding strips should extend a minimum of 4" on either side of the bond. This means that if there is a space or a filler between the two surfaces, glass strips wider than 10"...

  • Page 18: Winterization

    SECTION 3 Page 4 (continued) cutting, and drilling, work is done on the hull or deck, take care to watch your tools for dulling. Drills and taps, for example, dull quickly and should be sharpened or replaced when inspection shows wear. National Coarse Threads are generally preferred to National Fine Threads, i.e.

  • Page 19: Anti-Fouling Protective Coating

    SECTION 3 Page 5 Anti-Fouling Protective Coating System This specification covers sandblasting and the application of an International Intergard coating No. 4424/4423 and Tri-Lux T.B.T.O. anti-fouling paint containing Biomet coating to the keel and underwater hull areas. It should be used on all Kit Boats that have outside ballast and is optional on boats with inside ballast.
  • Page 20 SECTION 3 Page 6 (continued) Transport and Assembly During transportation of the keels from the foundry to the boat yard, damage to the epoxy filler and the Intergard coating will occur. Additional damage may also occur during the fitting of the keel to the hull. After the keel has been attached to the hull, repair the damage with epoxy filler and smooth to desired contour.

  • Page 46: General Assembly Instructions

    SECTION 5 Page 1 GENERAL ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS After studying Sections 1, 2, 3, and the drawings included in Section 4 in great detail, you are now ready to commence the work of building your Sailcrafter Yacht. We suggest certain preparations and tools prior to starting work (see 5.1.1 through 5.1.5).

  • Page 47: Keelingand Leveling Hull

    SECTION 5 Page 2 (continued) With the sole in place proceed to cut and fit the bulkheads, V-berths, and your other cabinets. Some of the remaining interior woodwork can also be cut and fitted at this time. However, depending on the location of thru-hulls, bulkheads, . etc., the finished pieces should probably be set aside and only bonded to the hull in the proper sequence, with the hull to deck joint, chainplate installation, and plumbing and electrical installations.

  • Page 48: Temporary Cover Over Work Area

    SECTION 5 Page 3 5.1.2 (continued) After the ballast has been installed it is recommended that the hull be very carefully replaced in the cradle so that all of the weight of the boat rests on the keel, with the saddles of the cradle used only to keep the boat from falling. Be sure you have adequate carpeting covering the cradle saddles so it does not mark the hull.

  • Page 49: Order Of Assembly

    SECTION 5 Page 4 5.1.4 (continued) Sailcrafter Kit with the interior installed you will note that there is draft in all of the vertical surfaces. This is necessary in order to remove the interior parts from its mold. Vertical surfaces cannot be used as a reference for locating wood parts, or else they will be tilted at the angle of draft rather than vertical with respect to the waterline of the boat.
  • Page 50 SECTION 5 Page 5 HULL TO DECK JOINTS 5.2.1 Hull to Deck Joint with "H" Metal Sand outer and inner gel face off 1/2" from the edge the full length of the hull and deck and across the transom. "H" Prior to joining the hull and deck, a short piece of metal shall be slid along the joint of both the deck and the hull to insure the...

  • Page 51: Hull/Deck Joints

    Section 5 Page HULL TO DECK JOINTS 5.2.1 (continued) Before joining the hull and deck, a short piece of "H" metal (6"-8") should be slid along the joint on both the deck and hull to insure a proper fit. The bottom of the "H" metal should be filled 1/2 to 3/4 of the way up with caulking and placed on the hull.
  • Page 52 SECTION 5 Page 7 HULL TO DECK JOINTS 5.2.2 (continued) Set deck on hull. First, set in engine, heat riser, and fuel tank. Clamp the deck and the hull together in about six points on both sides. Starting with the transom and working forward evenly on both sides, drill and countersink screw holes through the deck flange and hull flange, clamping the hull and deck together in a fair line as you go.

  • Page 53: Engine And Fuel Tanks

    SECTION 5 Page 8 ENGINE AND FUEL TANKS The engine should be set in prior to decking the boat, however it may be set in through the main hatch if installed later. The engine exhaust should also be set in place before the deck goes on. The engine is installed on the engine bed that is molded into the hull liner in accordance with the hull drawing.

  • Page 54: Thru-Hull Installations

    SECTION 5 Page 9 (continued) fitting together with a hose clamp. The ground wire must be installed from the fill fitting to the tank to engine ground to prevent explosion from static discharge, in accordance with the wiring diagram. The fuel tank vent line is led from the tank to the engine compartment in accordance with the plumbing diagram.
  • Page 55 SECTION 5 Page 10 (continued) Remove the balsacore (Item 6) and inner hull laminate for an area around the thru-hull, large enough in diameter to allow the plywood donut to seat properly. With the thru-hull temporarily located, fill the void around it with random matting and resin (Item 5) as shown.
  • Page 56 SECTION 5 Page 11 Chainplate Installation Drill hole in deck, elongating to fit chainplate. Place chainplate through deck and secure. Seal around chainplate below and above deck. Use Minnesota Manufacturing Company Weather Ban Sealant Tape, 3" wide and 1/8" thick. Slit and place over chainplate and secure chainplate cover. Trim excess sealant with knife.

  • Page 57: Rudder Assembly

    SECTION 5 Page 12 Rudder Assembly Drill hole in hull at rudder location (for size see drawing). Align the rudder tube, drill hole in deck. Bond rudder tube to hull as follows: The rudder tube is extended through a clearance hole in the hull and aligned with a locating jig.
  • Page 58 SECTION 5 Page 13 (continued) Lubricate rudder shaft and place Nylatron washer between hull and rudder. Push rudder up. Secure deck flange and place Nylatron washer under tiller head. Install hex head set screw, lining up rudder and tiller. Drill through tiller head and rudder shaft and install hex head bolt and secure.

  • Page 59: Keeling Procedure

    SECTION 5 Page 14 Keeling Procedure 5.8.1 The entire keel must be painted with International Intergard No. 4424/4423 Primer, except the top and sides of the flange, which must be sanded to white metal and cleaned with acetone. 5.8.2 The keel must be dry fitted with keel pocket to assure proper fit.
  • Page 60 SECTION 5 Page 15 Keeling Procedure 5.8.7 Wrap keel bolts with caulking cotton and apply PRC-5000 (Nauti-calk may be substituted for PRC-5000) to the bolts on the inside of the boat. 5.8.8 Place keel bolt back-up channel over bolts and tighten keel by using a flat washer, lock washer, and nut on each bolt.

  • Page 61: Plumbing And Water Tanks

    SECTION 5 Page 16 Plumbing and Water Tanks WATER TANK INSTALLATION: Formica sheet shall be adhered to both sides of 3/8 plywood (inside only where the tank lid is to serve as the cabin sole) by application of a suitable contact cement, either contact cement #2210 from 3M Company or spray contact cement from No.
  • Page 62 SECTION 5 Page 17 (continued) Excessive sealant should be displaced as the lid is secured. This sealant shall be wiped to form a neatly appearing bead. The screw heads shall be wiped clean. See the drawing provided for the correct hot water connections to your engine from the hot water heater.

  • Page 63: Stove And Tank Installation

    SECTION 5 Page 18 5.10 Stove and Tank Installation 5.10.1 INSTALLATION OF LPG STOVES LPG stoves and their remote supply tanks shall be installed and connected in the following manner. No changes in materials or methods should be made before checking with Sailcrafter Engineering. LPG means liquified petroleum gas - properly known as propane, butane, or some combination of the two.
  • Page 64 SECTION 5 Page 19 5.10.1 (continued) No substitutions whatsoever shall be made without checking with Sailcrafter Engineering. After the assembly of the stove and tank are completed the following tests should be preformed. Fasten a quick disconnect fitting to the LPG fitting so that a hand air pump can be connected to apply pressure to the system.
  • Page 65 SECTION 5 Page 20 5.10.2 (continued) The remote supply tank must be bolted with stainless steel bolts and washers to the appropriate support. It must be equipped with a cut-off valve. The remote tank and stove shall be connected by a continuous length, with no splices or joints, of Aeroquip Hose No.
  • Page 66 SECTION 5 Page 21 5.10.2 (continued) Air pressure shall be applied to 10 psi with the tank valve open and all stove valves closed. If there is no measurable drop in pressure in a one hour period the system shall be considered acceptable. If at any time during any of the tests described a leak is detected, the source of the leak shall be found and corrected and the test shall be started over again.

  • Page 67: Windows

    5.11 Installation of Windows Cut out along scribe line for proper fit o. or make a template. It is best to make a 1 plywood template of the inside of the window (with the securing ring removed). Tape these to the cabin with masking tape and the aligns checked for symmetry and the overall aesthetic When all the templates are taped in place, sc: around them.

  • Page 68: Deck Hardware

    SECTION 5 Page 23 5.12 Deck Hardware The stem fitting is bolted through the deck and the outside of the hull using stainless steel flat head bolts of the proper size with flat and lock washers and nuts on the inside of the hull and deck. Use a liberal amount of sealant around the bolts and under the stem fitting plate on deck.
  • Page 69 SECTION 5 Page 24 5.12 (continued) track according to the Deck Assembly drawing. Make sure the cars will slide the full length of all tracks. To mount dead lites drill a 1/4" hole from the bottom of the deck up through in the proper location.

  • Page 70: Exterior Wood

    SECTION 5 Page 25 5.13 Exterior Wood If your boat has toe rail caps they are teak and are cut to the proper shape to fit the deck, however there is some fitting and trimming left to be done. Start at the transom and fit the transom cap down over the toe rail (the rail caps are dadoed out on the bottom side).
  • Page 71 SECTION 5 Page 26 5.13 (continued) Scribe a pencil line around the nibb and chisel this out of the rail cap. Insert the nibb and screw a countersink horizontally from the inside of the nibb to the rail cap. Measure the cap from the outside edge until you find the narrowest point.
  • Page 72 SECTION 5 Page 27 5.13 (continued) Looking at the back of the frame, there are slots cut from the inside of the frame across the wood to the outside. These are drain holes and should be at the bottom of the box. Fasten the frame by screwing, countersinking, and plugging the holes.

  • Page 73: Electrical System

    SECTION 5 Page 28 5.14 Electrical System - 12 Volt DC The lighting wiring harness is molded in the deck liner in most boats. All connections should be with Stak-on type connectors and terminal wiring eyes. All wiring harnesses should be bundled and wrapped with plastic ties every 19".

  • Page 74: Cabinetry And Interior Wood

    SECTION 5 Page 29 5.15 Cabinetry, Interior Wood The interior cabinetry and wood parts should be located in accordance with the Interior Construction drawing. The main bulkheads around the head should go in first. These are all pre-cut and should follow from forward to aft. Set the bulkheads in the recesses provided.
  • Page 75 SECTION 5 Page 30 5.15 (continued) All shelves that are installed directly to the hull should be bonded the full length with 3 oz. of mat and 7-1/2 oz. cloth. The bond should be on both top and bottom of the shelves and run from 3" on the hull to 3" onto the shelves.

  • Page 76: Spars And Rigging

    SECTION 6 Page 31 5.16 Spars and Rigging If you have purchased the Sailcrafter spar and rigging kits you should, following the drawings carefully, assemble the mast as the final step in the construction of your yacht. Be sure that all stainless steel parts such as sail track are separated from the aluminum spars, using a vinyl electrical tape.

  • Page 77: Launching And Commissioning

    SECTION 5 Page 32 5.17 Launching & Commissioning Now that your boat is complete and ready to go into the water it is extremely important that you carefully check out your rigging and mast prior to having the boat moved to the launching facility. Check the dimensions of all your shrouds, standing rigging, and the dimensions o£...
  • Page 78 SECTION 6 Page 33 5.17.1 (continued) windward side, for further corrections. After a few tacks, the mast should be straight: Secure the rigging by in serting cotterkeys into the turnbuckles, spread them open and cover with tape to prevent any snags: Special attention should be given to the initial stretch of the rigging, especially after the first sail in a strong breeze.
  • Page 79 SECTION 5 Page 34 5.17.2 Backstays (continued) On insulated backstays, unless otherwise specified, the upper insulator is located 18" down from the top swage eye, while the lower insulator is 7'6" up from the bottom swage eye. 5.17.3 Genoa Gear The trend in modern yacht design has been to smaller main sails and larger jibs or "Genoas".
  • Page 80 SECTION 5 Page 36 5.17.4 Spinnaker Gear (continued) well be used on smaller ones. In beam reaching conditions, when the pole is up against the headstay, an unnatural load is put on the mast, stay, and pole. The reaching strut allows for a better angle of pull for the after guy, pulling the pole off the headstay and thus reducing the loads to a safer point.

  • Page 81: Introduction To Fiberglass

    SECTION 6 Page 1 INTRODUCTION TO FIBERGLASS 6.1.1 Composition and Properties of Glass Fibers Glass is a combination of several common raw materials such as silica (sand), line, and alumina, plus small percentages of other elements. Among known solid materials, glass is unique in that it has no detectable crystalline structure. It is essentially a supercooled liquid of immeasurably high viscosity and surface tension.
  • Page 82 SECTION 6 Page 2 6.1.3 (continued) are soluble in styrene monomers and are, in fact, sold as solid resins dissolved in styrene monomer. Special-purpose resins can be made fire-retardant, flexible, thixotropic (slow to drain off a vertical surface) or corrosion-resistant, to name just a few.
  • Page 83 SECTION 6 Page 3 6.1.4 (continued) Ideally, resin should be so catalyzed that it begins to solidify as soon as it has been combined with the desired reinforcement and formed into the desired shape. Since the time required for these operations varies, refer to the resin manufacturer's data sheet to determine the correct amount of catalyst (and promoter, if required) for good results.
  • Page 84 SECTION 6 Page 4 6.1.5 (continued) Fibers of the reinforcing material, acts as a barrier to liquids, and limits degradation that may result from ultraviolet radiation. It also eliminates the need for painting the product after it has been built. Although the gel coat is on the "top",or surface, of the fiber glass product, it is applied first during its construction, usually by spraying it on the walls of the mold.
  • Page 85 SECTION 6 Page 5 6.1.6 (continued) Chopped fiber materials include mat and other chopped rovings. Although roving is sold as continuous strand material, it is usually chopped during use. These materials offer non-directional strengths and are applied behind gel coated surfaces to prevent the weave pattern of the cloth or woven roving from being transferred to the exterior surface.

  • Page 86: Surface Repairs

    SECTION 6 Page 6 BASIC PROCEDURES FOR REPAIRING SURFACE DAMAGE 6.2.1 Introduction The purpose of this chapter is to give you the. basic procedures for making surface repairs to gel-coated fiber glass products or parts. IMPORTANT: To determine how to repair a particular type of surface damage refer first to the appropriate section.
  • Page 87 SECTION 6 Page 7 6.2.1 (continued) Apply the putty firmly in the void with a putty knife to force out all the trapped air. Build up the damaged area about 1/9" above the surface. 'Immediately after you have applied the putty, place a piece of cellophane over the patch to start the cure.
  • Page 88 SECTION 6 Page 8 6.2.1 (continued) Cover the patch with cellophane to start the cure. Remove the excess putty with a single edge razor blade (see Procedure D, Steps 4 and 5 above). When the putty has cured, remove the cellophane and block-sand the patch with 220-grit sandpaper as instructed in Step 1 above.
  • Page 89 SECTION 6 Page 9 6_.2.2 (continued) siderably, giving it an almost like new shine. For maximum satisfaction after you have repaired a hole or fracture, buff the entire unit, not just the repaired area. TOOLS MATERIALS Heavy duty polisher Harsh grit buffing compound Buffing pad Acetone White cloth...
  • Page 90 SECTION 6 Page 10 6.2.3 (continued) Preparing the Surface Saturate a white cloth with acetone. Wipe scratched area with the saturated cloth to remove all loose debris. If not removed, debris can cause additional scratches. Removing the Scratch Block sand the scratch with 220 grit sandpaper until scratch disappears.
  • Page 91 SECTION 6 Page 11 6.2.4 (continued) Preparing the Surface Remove all the damaged gel coat surrounding the air bubble (or "air void") with a putty knife. The damaged gel coat chips off easily. when you apply pressure to the putty knife.
  • Page 92 SECTION 6 Page 12 6.2.5 Repairing Nicks and Small Holes TOOLS MATERIALS Heavy duty polisher Harsh grit buffing compound Huffing pad (for polisher) Acetone white cloth (2) Water Sanding block Gel Coat Putty Knife Catalyst Cellophane Milled fibers Single edge razor Sandpaper 200, 900 &...
  • Page 93 SECTION 6 Page 13 6.2.6 Repairing Gel Coat Crazing TOOLS MATERIALS Heavy duty polisher Harsh grit buffing compound Huffing pad Water White cloth Gel coat Sanding block Cab-o-sil Putty knife Catalyst Cellophane Sandpaper 100, 220, 400 6 600 Single edge razor blade Preparing the Surface Remove the crazed (cracked) area entirely by block sanding with 100 grit sandpaper.
  • Page 94 SECTION 6 Page 19 6.2.6 (continued IMPORTANT if all lumps are not removed from the putty, they will trap air that in turn will leave tiny pin holes in the area being patched. The lumps also will appear as white spots in the patched area. Add catalyst to the putty in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions.
  • Page 95 SECTION 6 Page 15 6.2.7 (continued) Preparing the Surface Remove as much of the wrinkled area as possible with a putty knife. Remove the rest of the wrinkled area by block sanding smoothly with 100 grit sandpaper. Clean the area thoroughly with a white cloth saturated with acetone.

  • Page 96: Fracture And Puncture Repairs

    SECTION 6 Page 16 FRACTURE AND PUNCTURE REPAIRS 6.3.1 Basic Procedures for Repairing Fractures and Punctures The purpose of this chapter is to give you the basic procedures for repairing fractures and punctures (holes) in the fiber glass (that is, below the gel-coat surface) of a fiber glass product or part.
  • Page 97 SECTION 6 Page 17 6.3.1 (continued) Clean the area with a white cloth saturated in acetone. Cutting the Fiber Glass Patch Cut pieces of fiber glass mat to build up the sanded area. Cut the first piece to the size of the lowest point of the sanded area and continue outward with other pieces for an adequate buildup.
  • Page 98 SECTION 6 Page 18 6.3.1 (continued) Applying The Patch As you apply each piece of wetted mat to the sanded area, work out the air bubbles with the paintbrush and your index finger. IMPORTANT If air bubbles are not removed they will leave deep voids in the patch after sanding so that you might have to apply additional fiber glass mat.
  • Page 99 SECTION 6 Page 19 6.3.1 (continued) Remove the remaining excess fiber glass and all ripples from thoroughly with the patch by block sanding the area 50 grit sandpaper. Apply the sanding block in a continuous pattern across the patch so that ridges will not be left. from the block.
  • Page 100 SECTION 6 Page 20 6.3.2 (continued) Repair Procedure A simple fiber glass fracture is one that does not go all the way through the structure being repaired. To repair this type of fracture see Section 6.3, Procedures C through H. 6.3.3 Repairing Compound Fractures From Outside And Inside The Structure...
  • Page 101 SECTION 6 Page 21 6.3.3 (continued) If the fiberglass design on the inside of the structure resembles a heavy woven material, build up the sanded area with alternating pieces of fiber glass mat and woven roving - instead of just mat - as instructed in Section 6.3, Procedures D through F.
  • Page 102 SECTION 6 Page 22 6.3.9 (continued) Repair Procedure When a compound fiber glass fracture is accessible only from the outside of the structure, repair it as instructed in Section 6.3, Procedures C through H. However, when removing the damaged fiber glass initially with the power sander (Procedure C, Step 1, in Section 6.3), do not sand all the way through the structure so that a hole is formed.
  • Page 103 SECTION 6 Page 23 6.3.5 (continued) Place the cardboard firmly over the hole, with the cellophane between the hole and the cardboard. Secure the cardboard over the hole with masking tape. IMPORTANT To restore the strength to the damaged area, the cardboard must be placed flush against the hole.
  • Page 104 SECTION 6 Page 24 6.3.5 (continued) Finishing the Outside and Inside Surf Clean the outside and the inside patched areas thoroughly with a white cloth saturated with acetone. Apply gel-coat putty to the outside of the inside patched areas as instructed in Section 6.3, Procedure H.
  • Page 105 SECTION 6 Page 25 6.3.6 (continued) Inserting the Back-up Patch Cut a piece of cardboard so that it overlaps the hole at least one inch on all sides. Insert a piece of wire through the cardboard, in a U-shape, so that the wire enters at one end of the cardboard, passes along the length on the reverse side, and comes back to the front at the opposite end.
  • Page 106 SECTION 6 Page 26 6.3.6 (continued) Insert the cardboard through the hole. Pull the wire toward you until the patch is flush against the hole. The fiber glass cloth and mat should be in complete contact with the hole from the underneath area. Place a stick across the sanded area.
  • Page 107 SECTION 6 Page 27 6.3.6 (continued) Patching the Remaining Area Continue the repair by building up the remaining area of the hole with pieces of fiber glass mat as instructed in Section 6.3, Procedures D through G. Finishing the Surface Complete the repair by finishing the surface of the patched area as instructed in Section 6.3, Procedure H.
  • Page 108 SECTION 6 Page 28 6.3.7 (continued) Make a putty of equal amounts of resin and milled fibers. Mix thoroughly, and then add catalyst in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions. Prom outside the structure, apply the catalyzed putty in the hole with a putty knife. Build up the hole smoothly and evenly.
  • Page 109 SECTION 6 Page 29 6.3.7 (continued) Repairing Hole That Cannot Be Seen Inside the Structure Feather the area thoroughly with a sanding block and 50 grit sandpaper. Clean the area with a white cloth saturated with acetone. Cut one piece of fiber glass mat that completely overlaps the hole (filled with the back up patch of catalyzed resin and milled fibers) at least 1 inch.
  • Page 110 SECTION 6 Page 30 6.3.7 (continued) Clean the area thoroughly with a white cloth saturated with acetone. Select the layers of patching materials (mat and woven roving, or mat only), according to the type of fiber glass visible on the inside of the structure.

  • Page 111: Finishing Techniques

    SECTION 6 Page 31 FINISHING TECHNIQUES NOTE: It is recommended that small areas be finished with gel coat because the color and texture of the surrounding surface should be matched. For new surfaces, it is best to obtain the gel coat in the original color from the manufacturer of the part being repaired.
  • Page 112 SECTION 6 Page 32 (continued) Cover with paper any areas that may possibly be exposed to overspray. Clean the area thoroughly with a white cloth saturated with acetone to remove all dust or debris. Preparing the Gel Coat and Spray Equipment Thin the gel coat approximately 25 percent with acetone to get sprayable consistency.
  • Page 113 SECTION 6 Page 33 (continued) Remove the masking tape; and, as soon as the gel coat has cured, block-sand it with 400 grit sandpaper and water to remove orange peel and any lap lines that may have developed. Hand-sand if necessary to smooth stubborn areas.
  • Page 114 SECTION 6 Page 34 6.4.1 (continued) After the area has been thoroughly sanded, mask off the area to be finished with tape and paper. Be sure to cover all areas that will be exposed to overspray, or spatter if you are using a brush. Clean the area thoroughly with a white cloth saturated with the thinner specified by the enamel manufacturer.
  • Page 115 SECTION 6 Page 35 6.4.2 (continued) Clean the exterior surface with detergent and a soft sponge, and apply a good automotive type wax. Do this about as often as you would clean and wax your car. Touch up and patch scratches, scars, and small breaks.

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