Basics - Boss

GT-X Setup Manual

Section 9 Noise Elimination
always remain off the scale, or at the top end. ANY
movement away from this will indicate a short.
ANY failure however small, should result in the cable being
rejected. Fixing faults in leads is really beyond the scope of
this series. I suggest reading a book, asking on the Internet,
or consulting someone who works in a music shop, another
musician or a repairman.
For your information I found 2 cables with dodgy signal
wires. One was a Peavey 2ft cable and the other some
unbranded thing I had lying around which I used as a spare.
Both were failing near the connectors (but not at the solder
joints inside—oddly enough).
For those that are interested I use Planet Waves cables as
my main signal carriers for long runs and for 1ft patches in
my rack. All my studio cables and balanced cables I made
myself using Switchcraft and Neutrik connectors and the
appropriate Van Damme cables (instrument/microphone/
balanced patch).
Ron Worley uses George L's cable, which is the stuff that
Eric Johnson uses. Don't know if it available in the UK.
This stuff is DEAD quiet, and comes in bulk with special no
solder connectors. I hear you saying " no solder connectors-
bullshit"! Well, Ron was also sceptical, but Ron says it
really works. Check
http://www.georgels.com, and look at Eric's bohemian rig
at http://www.ericjohnson.com.
OK, so now we've sorted out which cables are dodgy and
which are good.

Basics

First up we will check the amp, speakers and guitar. Then
we will create our new 'Noise Check' patch and then look at
eliminating the noise in the rest of our system. Be warned
this procedure will take quite some time. I think I must have
spent about 6-8hrs checking all my stuff out! This could be
the most important time you have ever spent with your
equipment!
As noise can be generated from a number of sources, we are
going to be systematic, and check each piece of equipment.
Finding noise at any point requires immediate removal.
Before you get stuck in though get some space around your
equipment. You need to space things out to determine
where the noise is coming from. It's much easier to work
when you aren't cramped.
Another thing—NEVER plug in or remove cables with the
volumes on your equipment at FULL. You stand a very
good chance of damaging something. Always change a
configuration with the volumes at zero (0!).
© Copyright 2000-2002 Barry S. Pearce et al.
out their webstite:
One more thing, please be careful with your ears when
doing this. The volumes will be loud – at least they will if
you PLAY anything. DON'T play and you won't damage
your equipment or your ears, and it will be a fairly quiet
exercise. This exercise is about removing noise, and you
cannot remove noise unless you have a quiet environment
(i.e. lack of washing machine). So, as a final warning,
unless I specifically say otherwise the GUITAR volume
control MUST be at zero.
OK, now for some golden rules:
At the least use a multiple socket block, preferably filtered.
If you can afford better and feel it is worth the investment
then get a power conditioner.
A filtered socket strip is a cheap way of removing a little
noise. Your equipment then only requires 1 wall socket.
However, beware that you do not overload the strip. In the
UK 13amps is normally the maximum. Most set-ups will be
well below this as this covers 3120W!!! I have a Furman
PL-Plus-E power conditioner at the top of my rack, which
supplies 10 Euro-sockets. This ensures ALL equipment is
protected in the same way. It also means I only need 1 wall
socket!
The four gang I was using in the rack has now been
modified. I was getting a small amount of noise from the
four gang when I plugged it into the Furman—even with
nothing plugged into socket strip! The problem appears to
have been caused by the neon bulb (and its resistor). I have
now removed this from the socket strip, and this has
stopped the additional noise from entering the rack. The
four gang is now completely silent. I therefore recommend
using a strip WITHOUT a neon, or removal of the neon
from the power strip as it may introduce noise into the
mains. If you do alter the strip keep electrical safety in
mind. Only do this if you understand what you are doing.
Keep ALL signal cables away from power supplies and
power supply cables.
Failing to do so will result in you picking up some noise.
This will typically manifest itself as a hum, sounding very
similar to a transformer. Looking at my rack from behind I
route all power from bottom left, up the left rear side and
then across the top, plugging into the Furman. I have a
socket strip that is attached to the left side of my rack, again
plugged into the Furman, and wall warts go into this. Power
transformers like the GT-3/5's go velcro'd onto the floor of
the rack on the LEFT side. Signal cables however, enter &
leave the rack on the bottom right. They are routed up the
right hand side rear of the rack and spur off as required
horizontally into the equipment. The signal cables between
rack components use the shortest leads possible. The way
the power is routed ensures that these are well away from
anything.
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