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SERVICE MANUAL
SEWING MACHINE MODEL
385. 15218400
OCTOBER,
2003

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Summary of Contents for Kenmore 385.15218400

  • Page 1 SERVICE MANUAL SEWING MACHINE MODEL 385. 15218400 OCTOBER, 2003...
  • Page 2: Table Of Contents

    CONTENTS LOCATE AND IDENTIFY THE PARTS ..............WIND THE BOBBIN ....................PREPARE YOUR TOP THREAD ................STITCH SELECTOR / STITCH LENGTH/STITCH WIDTH CONTROLS ..... WHAT TO DO WHEN .................... SERVICEACCESS FACECOVER ..................FRONT COVER ..................REAR COVER ..................MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT TOP TENSION ..................
  • Page 3: Locate And Identify The Parts

    SEWING MACHINE DIV.20 MODEL 385. 15218400 LOCATE AND IDENTIFY THE PARTS Spool Pins Bobbin Winder Thread guide Bobbin Winding Spindle Thread Guide Bobbin Winding Stopper Thread Take-up Lever. Top thread tension Control _. Stitch Length Control Stitch Width Control Face Plate _rDial Thread Cutter__ Needle Threader...
  • Page 4: Wind The Bobbin

    SEWING MACHINE DIV.20 MODEL 385. 15218400 WIND THE BOBBIN PULL THE HANDWHEEL OUT. DRAW THREAD FROM SPOOL THROUGH BOBBIN WINDING TENSION DISCS (A). PULL END OF THREAD THROUGH BOBBIN AS SHOWN. PLACE BOBBIN ONTO BOBBIN WINDING SPINDLE (B) WITH END OF THREAD COMING FROM THE TOP OF THE BOBBIN.
  • Page 5: Prepare Your Top Thread

    SEWING MACHINE DIV.20 MODEL 385.15218400 PREPARE YOUR TOP THREAD THE NUMBERED STEPS BELOW FOLLOW THE NUMBERS ON THE ILLUSTRATIONS. DOTTED LINES SHOW PLACES WHERE LOOPS AND THEN IS PULLED TIGHT. RAISE THE TAKE-UP LEVER TO ITS HIGHEST POSITION BY TURNING THE HANDWHEEL TOWARD YOU.
  • Page 6: Stitch Selector / Stitch Length/Stitch Width Controls

    SEWING MACHINE DIV.20 MODEL 385. 15218400 STITCH SELECTOR / STITCH LENGTH/ STITCH WIDTH CONTROLS SETTING MARK PATTERN " BH 1 BH t 9 10 STRETCH S_TCH LENGTH 8 V L 10_1_2_3--4 SETTING MARK STRETCH S V L10_1_2_314 TO SELECT STRETCH STITCHES, SET THIS CONTROLATVPOSITION.
  • Page 7: What To Do When

    SEWING MACHINE DIV.20 MODEL 385.15218400 WHAT TO DO WHEN CONDITION CAUSE HOW TO FIX REFERENCE 1. SKIPPING 1. NEEDLE IS NOT INSERTED INSERT THE NEEDLE PROPERLY. STITCHES PROPERLY. 2. NEEDLE IS BENT OR WORN. CHANGE THE NEEDLE, 3. INCORRECTLY THREADED RETHREAD.
  • Page 8 SEWING MACHINE DIV.20 MODEL 385. 15218400 CONDITION CAUSE HOW TO FIX REFERENCE &BREAKING START WITH MEDIUM SPEED. 1. INITIAL SEWING SPEED IS UPPER TOO FAST. THREAD 2. THREAD PATH IS USE THE PROPER THREAD INCORRECT. PATH. 3. NEEDLE IS BENT OR DULL, REPLACE WITH A NEW NEEDLE.
  • Page 9 SEWING MACHINE DIV.20 MODEL 385.15218400 CONDITION CAUSE HOW TO FIX REFERENCE 6. NOISY 1. BACKLASH BETWEEN SEE MECHANICAL P.18 OPERATION SHUTTLE HOOK GEAR AND ADJUSTMENT "CLEARANCE LOWERSHAFTGEARISTOO BETWEEN NEEDLE AND HOOt_ GREAT. (NO.2)". 2. LOWER SHAFT GEARIS ELIMINATE THE LOOSENESS LOOSE.
  • Page 10: Serviceaccess

    SEWING MACHINE DIV.20 MODEL 385.15218400 SERVICE ACCESS FACE COVER OPEN THE FACE COVER (A). REMOVE THE SCREWS (B). TAKE THE FACE COVER (A) OFF.
  • Page 11: Front Cover

    SEWING MACHINE DIV. 20 MODEL 385. 15218400 SERVICE ACCESS FRONT COVER FRONT COVER TO REMOVE LOOSEN THE SET SCREWS (A), (B),AND (C), AND THEN, REMOVE THE FRONT COVER BY REMOVING THE SET SCREWS (D) ,(E),(F),(G),(H),(I)AND (J). NOTE: UNHOOK THE TAB (L) FROM THE REAR COVER WHEN REMOVING FRONT COVER.
  • Page 12: Rear Cover

    SEWING MACHINE DIV. 20 MODEL 385. 15218400 SERVICE ACCESS REAR COVER TO REMOVE REMOVE THE FACE COVER AND FRONT COVER. (SEE PAGE 8, 9) LOOSEN THE SETSCREWS (A), (B) AND (C), AND REMOVE SETSCREWS (D), (E) AND (F). PULL UP THE SPOOL PINS. REMOVE THE MACHINE SOCKET. REMOVE THE REAR COVER CLEARING THE PRESSER FOOT LIFTER FROM THE SLIT ON THE COVER.
  • Page 13: Mechanical Adjustment

    SEWING MACHINE DIV. 20 MODEL 385. 15218400 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT TOP TENSION TO CHECK: THE STANDARD UPPER THREAD TENSION SHOULD BE 65 - 95g WHEN PULLING THE THREAD (COTTON THREAD #50) IN THE DIRECTION OF (B) WITH SETTING THE TENSION DIAL AT "3". (MAKE SURE THE FOOT SHOULD BE LOWERED.) IF THE TENSION IS OUT OF THE STANDARD RANGE, ADJUST IT AS FOLLOWS: ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE:...
  • Page 14: Bobbin Tension

    SEWING MACHINE DIV.20 MODEL 385.15218400 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT BOBBIN TENSION TO CHECK: SET THE BOBBIN IN THE BOBBIN CASE AND PASS THE THREAD (COTTON #50) THROUGH THE TENSION SPRING. THE BOBBIN THREAD TENSION SHOULD BE 45 - 55g WHEN PULLING THE THREAD IN THE DIRECTION OF (B).
  • Page 15: Presser Bar Height Alignment

    SEWING MACHINE DIV.20 MODEL 385.15218400 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT PRESSER BAR HEIGHT AND ALIGNMENT TO CHECK: RAISE THE PRESSER FOOT LEVER (A). THE DISTANCE BETWEEN THE PRESSER FOOT (D) AND THE NEEDLE PLATE (E) SHOULD BE 6.0MM (0.24"). ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE: REMOVE THE SCREW (B) AND TAKE THE LAMP SOCKET OFF.
  • Page 16: Needle Swing

    SEWING MACHINE DIV.20 MODEL 385.15218400 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT NEEDLE SWING TO CHECK: ADJUST THE NEEDLE SWING ACCORDING TO THE FOLLOWING PROCEDURE, IF THE NEEDLE BAR STARTS MOVING SIDEWAYS WHILE THE NEEDLE IS IN THE FABRIC AT SEWING THE ZIGZAG PATTERN (WITH MAXIMUM ZIGZAG WIDTH).
  • Page 17: Needle Drop

    SEWING MACHINE DIV.20 MODEL 385.15218400 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT NEEDLE DROP TO CHECK: WHEN THE NEEDLE SWINGSIN MAXIMUM ZIGZAG WIDTH, THE DISTANCE BETWEEN THE BOTH ENDS OF NEEDLE HOLE ON THE NEEDLE PLATE AND THE NEEDLE DROP POSITIONS SHOULD BE EQUAL. IF NOT, MAKE AN ADJUSTMENT...
  • Page 18: Clearance Between Needle And Hook (No.l)

    SEWING MACHINE DIV. 20 MODEL 385. 15218400 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT CLEARANCE BETWEEN NEEDLE AND HOOK (NO.l) TO CHECK: THE CLEARANCE BETWEEN NEEDLE AND SHUTTLE RACE SHOULD BE -0.05 -+0.10MM. IF NOT, MAKE AN ADJUSTMENT AS FOLLOWS: ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE: OPEN THE FACE COVER. SET THE PATTERN SELECT DIAL "...
  • Page 19: Clearance Between Needle And Hook (No.2)

    SEWING MACHINE DIV.20 MODEL 385.15218400 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT CLEARANCE BETWEEN NEEDLE AND HOOK (NO.2) TO CHECK: USE THIS ADJUSTMENT NO.2 WHEN ADJUSTMENT NO.1 CAN NOT BE USED. THE CLEARANCE BETWEEN NEEDLE AND SHUTTLE RACE SHOULD BE -0.05 - +0.10mm. ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE: SET THE PATTERN SELECTOR DIAL AT "C i _ ", WIDTH SELECTOR CONTROL AT...
  • Page 20: Feed Dog Height

    SEWING MACHINE DIV.20 MODEL 385.15218400 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT FEED DOG HEIGHT MACHINE SETTING STITCH LENGTH: SET AT 4. NEEDLE BAR: AT ITS HIGHEST POSITION. TO CHECK: RAISE THE PRESSER FOOT. PLACE THE FEED DOG HEIGHT GAUGE #68367 (A) ON THE NEEDLE PLATE.
  • Page 21: Needle Bar Height

    SEWING MACHINE DIV. 20 MODEL 385. 15218400 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT NEEDLE BAR HEIGHT MACHINE SETTING STITCH SELECTOR: "C i Z)". WIDTH SELECTOR CONTROL: SETAT 5 TO CHECK: OPEN THE SHUTTLE COVER. REPLACE THE NEEDLE WITH THE TEST PIN #68368 (A). REMOVE THE SHUTTLE HOOK AND INSERT THE RADIAL TIMING GAUGE #68366 (B) ONTO THE SHUTTLE DRIVER.
  • Page 22: Needle Timing To Shuttle

    SEWING MACHINE DIV. 20 MODEL 385 15218400 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT NEEDLE TIMING TO SHUTTLE MACHINE SETTING STITCH SELECTOR: "C : D WIDTH SELECTOR CONTROL: SET AT 5 TO CHECK: OPEN THE SHUTTLE COVER. REPLACE THE NEEDLE WITH THE TEST PIN #68368 (A). REMOVE THE SHUTTLE HOOK AND INSERT THE RADIAL TIMING GAUGE #68366 (B) ONTO THE SHUTTLE DRIVER.
  • Page 23: Distorted Pattern

    SEWING MACHINE DIV. 20 MODEL 385. 15218400 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT DISTORTED PATTERN TO CHECK: IF THE STRETCH STITCH PATTERNS ARE DISTORTED WITH SETTING THE STITCH LENGTH CONTROL AT" • " (IN CASE OF BEING A DIFFERENCE BETWEEN FORWARD FEEDING AND BACKWARD FEEDING DURING STRETCH STITCH PATTERNS), MAKE AN ADJUSTMENT AS FOLLOWS: ADJUSTMENT...
  • Page 24: Buttonhole Feed Balance

    SEWING MACHINE DIV.20 MODEL 385.15218400 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT BUTTONHOLE FEED BALANCE TO CHECK: WHEN SEWING BUTTONHOLE, THE STITCHES ON EACH SIDE OF BUTTONHOLE SHOULD BE THE SAME STITCH DENSITY. THE RANGE OF 9-12 STITCHES IN THE RIGHT SIDE ROW "BACKWARD FEEDING"...
  • Page 25: Bartackfeed Ofbuttonhole

    SEWING MACHINE DIV.20 MODEL 385.15218400 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT BARTACKFEED OFBUTTONHOLE TO CHECK: IF THE MATERIAL IS FEED FORWARD OR BACKWARD WHEN SEWING BARTACK ON BUTTONHOLE, MAKE AN ADJUSTMENT AS FOLLOWS: ADJUSTMENTPROCEDURE: B "AND THE STITCH LENGTH SETTHEPATTERNSELECTORCONTROLAT" CONTROL AT "4". REMOVE THE FRONT COVER. (SEE PAGE 9.) PLACE A PIECE OF PAPER UNDER THE FOOT AND TURN THE HANDWHEEL.
  • Page 26: Buttonhole Function

    SEWING MACHINE DIV.20 MODEL 385.15218400 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT BUTTUNHOLE FUNCTION TO CHECK: BOTTONHOLES SHOULD BE ABOUT 3MM LONGER THAN THE LENGTH SET BY THE R FOOT. IF THIS LENGTH CANNOT BE OBTAINED, THEN CHECK AND ADJUST AS FOLLOWS: ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE: OPEN THE FACE COVER.
  • Page 27: Disengagement Of Cam Follower

    SEWING MACHINE DIV.20 MODEL 385.15218400 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT DISENGAGEMENT OF CAM FOLLOWER TO CHECK: TOO NARROW CLEARANCE BETWEEN THE CAM FOLLOWER AND THE TOP CONVEX OF ZIGZAG CAM MAY OFTEN CAUSE DIFFICULTY IN TURNING OF THE PATTERN SELECTOR DIAL, OR CAN NOT CORRECT PATTERN.
  • Page 28: Motor Belt Tension

    SEWING MACHINE DIV. 20 MODEL 385. 15218400 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT MOTOR BELT TENSION TO CHECK: IF THE MOTOR BELT TENSION IS TOO TIGHT OR TOO LOOSE, IT CAN CAUSE A BELT NOISE: IF THE TENSION IS TOO TIGHT, IT CAN CAUSE THE MACHINE TO RUN SLOWLY AND THE MOTOR TO OVERLOAD;...
  • Page 29: To Replace Needle Threader Plate

    SEWING MACHINE DIV.20 MODEL 385.15218400 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT TO REPLACE NEEDLE THREADER PLATE TO REMOVE REMOVE THE FOOT HOLDER. PULL OUT THE THREADER PLATE UNIT (A). TO ATTACH PUSH THE THREADER PLATE UNIT (A) UP TO SNAP IT WITH THE PIN (B) AS SHOWN IN FIG.1.
  • Page 30: Wiring

    SEWING MACHINE DIV.20 MODEL 385.15218400 WIRING WIRING FOR MACHINE SOCKET UNIT RIDGE M : MOTOR L : LAMP RIDGE _ WIRING DIAGRAM FOOTCONTROL MOTOR ATTACHMENTCAP LAMP SOCKET MOTOR...
  • Page 31: Oiling

    SEWING MACHINE DIV. 20 MODEL 385. 15218400 OILING FACTORY LUBRICATED PARTS WILL PROVIDE YEARS OF HOUSEHOLD SEWING WITHOUT ROUTINE OILING. HOWEVER, WHENEVER THE MACHINE IS BEING SERVICED, CHECK TO SEE IF ANY PARTS NEED TO BE LUBRICATED. USE GOOD QUALITY SEWING MACHINE OIL AT THE POINTS (A, B, C, D, E) INDICATED BY BLACK ARROWS.
  • Page 32: Special Tools Required

    SEWING MACHINE DIV. 20 MODEL 385. 15218400 SPECIAL TOOLS REQUIRED _REW DRIVER FEED DOG HEIGHT GAUGE #68367 DRIVER TEST PIN #68368 ALIEN WRENCH RADIAL TIMING GAUGE #68366...

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