Cannondale JEKYLL - Bicycle Manual

JEKYLL FEATURES

The Jekyll is a moderate-travel, all-mountain full-suspension bike that fits between our race-tuned Scalpel and free riding Gemini. Equally at home on twisting singletrack as it is descending a backcountry downhill, the nimble yet durable Jekyll is TIG-welded and heat-treated of 6061-T6 aluminum. The Jekyll's lightweight swingarm and front triangle join via the rear shock at a threaded, pivoting collar, allowing adjustment of the bike's geometry and handling characteristics. Threading the shock absorber farther forward in the collar lowers the bottom bracket and slackens the head and seat tube angles, making the bike better for high speed descending. Threading it farther back raises the bottom bracket and steepens the angles for quicker handling and better root and rock clearance. Rear wheel travel for the Jekyll is 130mm with an air shock and 110mm with a coil shock, regardless of where the shock is positioned in the collar. The Jekyll's externally butted headtube is designed to accept HeadShok and 1.5" (38.1mm) headsets, while available headset adapter cups allow for use of standard 1-1/8" (28.6mm) forks. International standard disc brake mounts are located on the swingarm and fork, regardless of model.

All Cannondale bicycles must be fully assembled and adjusted by an Authorized Cannondale Retailer before delivery to the customer.

COMPONENT COMPATIBILITY AND PRECAUTIONS

(FOR ALL JEKYLL MODELS)

This Owner's Manual Supplement makes no attempt to be a comprehensive manual on bicycle mechanics. If you are not an experienced mechanic we urge you to bring your bicycle to an authorized Cannondale retailer where a professional mechanic can do the job right. In addition to putting yourself at risk, poorly done mechanical work may void your warranty. This section covers design features unique to the Jekyll bicycle, and is intended primarily for the Authorized Cannondale Retailer performing the assembly and adjustments.

Selection and Installation of Components on a Frameset

If you choose to assemble a complete bicycle from a frameset, you must make many component choices. Consult with your retailer and the component manufacturers and frankly discuss your riding style, ability, weight, and interest in and patience for maintenance. Generally speaking, lighter weight components have shorter lives. In selecting lightweight components you are making a trade-off, favoring the higher performance that comes with less weight over longevity. If you choose more lightweight components you must inspect them more frequently. If you are a heavier rider or have a rough, abusive or "go for it" riding style, buy heavy-duty components. No matter what components you and your retailer choose, contact the component manufacturer to confirm that the component is compatible with the Jekyll and intended for your weight and riding style. Read and follow the component manufacturers warnings and instructions.

Fork and Headset Compatibility

The Jekyll is designed to use either Cannondale's proprietary-dimension HeadShok headset or a 1.5" (38.1mm) headset. When used with Cannondale headset adapter cups (available separately), the frame can also accommodate standard 1 1/8" (28.6mm) steerers.

Do not adapt the Jekyll for use with a 1" (25.4mm) steerer. Doing so will greatly increase the risk of fork failure, which could result in injury or death.

Rear Shock Compatibility

The air- and coil-sprung shocks that come with the Jekyll were developed specifically for use with the Jekyll. These are the only shocks we recommend using. For information on Jekyll rear shock options, see an authorized Cannondale retailer.

Pivoting Shock Mounting Collar

The Jekyll uses a pivoting collar to secure the rear shock to the front triangle. The collar pivots on a pair of specially designed brass bushings that are pressed into the front triangle. The bushings are Teflon® coated and need no lubrication. They should never be greased or oiled. In fact, some lubricants may damage or destroy the Teflon® coating. Should your pivot bushings become damaged or wear out, they can be replaced by your local authorized Cannondale retailer.

Two aluminum bolts run through the bushings and secure the collar to the front triangle. On some Jekyll models, these bolts will need to be removed and replaced when adjusting the bike's geometry, and after the first few adjustments the threads should be treated with Loctite. Make sure not to get any Loctite onto the frame's brass pivot bushings or through the collar onto the shock adjustment threads. See the section called "Jekyll Geometry Adjustment" for details.

Tire Usage

When selecting new tires, be sure that the properly inflated tire does not contact any part of the swingarm, frame, or fork. The Consumer Product Safety Commission requires at least 1/16" (1.6mm) tire clearance from any part of the bike. Allowing for lateral rim flex and for untrue (wobbly) rims will likely mean choosing a rear tire that provides even more clearance than the CPSC recommends. Your choice of a new front tire should be made only after considering the clearance guidelines contained in your front suspension fork owner's manual. If your manual contains no such guidelines, or if don't have a manual, consider that Rock Shox requires at least 1/4" (5mm) clearance between the tire and the fork crown or bridge when the fork is completely compressed. Be aware that completely compressing the fork may involve removing the spring stack, letting the air out of the fork, or both.

Front Derailleur

All Jekylls require a standard "bottom-pull" type front derailleur with a 31.8mm clamp diameter. Because the front derailleur mounts to the swingarm, and has a limited range of vertical adjustment, some derailleur designs (like Shimano "Top Swing") are not compatible.

Rear Derailleur Hanger

Cannondale equips the Jekyll with a replaceable rear derailleur hanger. Do not use any other hanger than the Cannondale unit that came on your bike. Replacement hangers are available from your authorized Cannondale dealer.

Crankset / Bottom Bracket

Like all Cannondales, the Jekyll bottom bracket shell is 68mm wide and has English threads. Proper bottom bracket spindle length depends on the crankset being used. Use whatever length spindle is recommended by the crank manufacturer, providing the proper clearance between the crankarms and the frame is maintained.

Do not machine (or "face") either the headtube or the bottom bracket shell. These surfaces are accurately faced at the factory so this traditional frame preparation step is not necessary. Further machining could damage the frame.

Chainring Size

Maximum usable chainring size for the Jekyll is 46 teeth. Use of any larger chainrings may damage the swingarm and/or result in contact between the front derailleur cage and the large chainring.

Use only a 27.2mm diameter seatpost and be sure that the seatpost is held securely by the seatpost collar. The seatpost collar clamp bolt must be tightened to 70-80 In-Lbs (8-9 Nm.) Failure to properly tighten the collar could lead to slippage, loss of control and risk of serious injury or death.

Seatpost

The Jekyll will accept any 27.2mm diameter seatpost. A light coating of grease should be applied to the seatpost or inside of the seattube during bike assembly, and the seatpost must be inserted to the recommended minimum insertion. For binder-bolt type seatpost collars, grease the binder-bolt threads and tighten to 70-80 In-Lbs (8-9 Nm.)

NOTE: Make sure that the end of the seatpost will not come into contact with the rear shock and/or swingarm as the suspension is compressed. To check, first adjust the seatpost height for the bike's intended rider. Then compress the rear suspension as far is possible in order to bottom out the suspension travel. If necessary, cut the bottom of the seatpost to provide at least 1/2" (1.27mm) of clearance between it and the swingarm/shock when the suspension is fully compressed. Repeat this check each time the seat height is readjusted.

Additionally, the seatpost must be inserted far enough to be properly supported by the frame. Generally, the seatpost's minimum insertion height will assure sufficient insertion. If in doubt, or if the bottom of the seatpost was cut in the step above, make sure that there is at least 10cm of seatpost insertion into the frame.

Swingarm Protector

The swingarm on your Jekyll is made of thinwalled aluminum tubing and some CNC-machined aluminum parts. To protect the swingarm from damage inflicted by the chain slapping against the chainstay, we have supplied a self-adhesive vinyl protector for the swingarm. This protector should be applied to the top of the right (drive side) chainstay, near the chain. Please inspect this protector frequently. If the protector becomes damaged, abraded, or peels off, it should be replaced to prevent damage to the swingarm. To obtain a new swingarm protector, see an authorized Cannondale retailer.

Alternative Brakes

Aftermarket brakes are a popular upgrade on many suspension bicycles. The Jekyll is designed to accept disc brakes that conform to the international mounting standard. When selecting a new brake system for your Jekyll, choose one that mounts to the swingarm and fork using only the existing disc brake caliper mounts. Do not modify the existing mounts or clamp, weld, or in any other way add new or different mounts. Any modification to the frame, fork, swingarm or related components will void the warranty and may weaken or damage the frame. For installation instructions and other warnings, read the literature provided by the brake manufacturer.

Maintaining the Appearance of Your Jekyll Frame

To keep your Jekyll frame looking its best, we recommend cleaning it regularly with mild soap and water. Regular cleaning will minimize the chances of corrosion. Do not use abrasive cleansers or solvents. Jekyll frames have a thin coating of clear paint over the whole frame (including the decals). A coating of wax can be applied if desired.

JEKYLL MAINTENANCE

A good maintenance program is key to the reasonably safe and reliable operation of any vehicle. Developing and following an effective maintenance schedule for your Jekyll means addressing factors such as how often you ride, weather conditions, terrain, and your riding style. For example, riding in wet and muddy conditions will shorten the time between services because mud is abrasive and will accelerate the wear of bicycle components. The "Service and Maintenance" section of your Cannondale Owner's Manual will help you start thinking about a maintenance program.

Given the potentially high level of abuse that your Jekyll may be subjected to, we strongly suggest that you keep a log or notes on all services and adjustments. It would be a good idea also to note races, particularly hard hits or crashes, or any other event subjecting your bike to an unusually high level of stress. Remember – the harder you use your bike, the more often it will need to be inspected and serviced. Your awareness of the condition of your bike will help you troubleshoot problems, avoid part failures, and will be a great help to your mechanic when you encounter a repair you're unqualified to make. While nothing we can tell you is absolute, and we can't predict how hard or often you'll ride, what follows is a good starting point for your maintenance program.

Suggested Tools for Basic Maintenance

You should (at minimum) have the following on hand when preparing to adjust or service your Jekyll:

Metric hex wrench set
Metric open-end or closed-end wrench set, or metric socket set
Torque wrench
High pressure air pump with gauge (such as Cannondale part # HD100/)
High quality bicycle grease
Park Red Pin Spanner tool
Loctite 242 (Blue)

Recommended Torque Values

Here are the values to use when checking your Jekyll's bolts for proper torque. We have omitted some component-specific values (for crank bolts, rotor bolts, etc.) because they will vary based on the spec level of the bike; please consult the manufacturer of the component in question for the correct torque value.
See Fig. 1 for the location of each bolt.

1. Swingarm Pivot: 240 In-Lbs (27 Nm).
2. Shock Mounting Bolt: 106 In-Lbs (12 Nm).
3. Shock-Mounting Collar Bolts: 150 In-Lbs (17Nm).
4. Rear Derailleur Hanger Bolt (single bolt type): 44 In-Lbs (5 Nm).
5. Stem Bolt: 94 In-Lbs (10.5 Nm).
6. Handlebar Mounting Bolt: 94 In-Lbs (10.5 Nm).
7. Seat Binder Bolt: 70-80 In-Lbs (8-9 Nm).

Scheduled Maintenance Program

This maintenance chart was developed by gathering data and opinions from industry and media authorities, from our ESAL test laboratory, and from our own experience. There are many repairs and services not listed here – that does not mean that you can ignore them! This chart should be viewed as a set of minimums, created to help keep your Jekyll reasonably safe and running smoothly. It is meant to involve you in the inspection and maintenance of your bicycle. Please communicate with the professional mechanic at your retailer. The harder you ride, the more often you'll want to perform the inspections and services listed here.

The above checklist intentionally excludes suggestions about when to repair or replace bike components. The proper time to repair or replace something is determined by how often and how hard you use it and is therefore unpredictable. You'll be more likely to notice when your bike needs service by following the above checklist and by noticing how your bike performs on a daily basis. When service is required, if you have any doubts about your ability to perform the proper procedures, visit your nearest authorized Cannondale dealer or service professional. Incorrect repair of your bike or any of its components and systems may seriously reduce performance and could lead to injury or death.

JEKYLL GEOMETRY ADJUSTMENT

The adjustable geometry of all Jekyll frames allow for head tube angles of 69.5 to 71 degrees, with corresponding bottom bracket heights of 12.9 inches (32.8cm) to 13.5 inches (34.3cm). Many Jekyll riders do a little of everything on their bikes, and after a little geometry trial-and-error, end up sticking with a setting that works well for them in most conditions. Some riders change geometry only when faced with terrain way out of the ordinary, while still others fine-tune the geometry almost continuously. How often you change your Jekyll geometry is up to you - here's how to do it:

NOTE: This procedure requires disconnecting the rear shock from either the swingarm or from the front triangle, and then rotating the shock within the shock mounting collar or vice-versa. Either operation is easier when the bike's weight is off it's wheels, such as when the bike is hanging by the seatpost from a repair stand.

Coil-sprung shocks

1. Loosen the lockring on the shock body, located just in front of the shock-mounting collar, by turning it counter-clockwise (when viewed from the front of the bike) using a Park red pin spanner tool.
2. Unscrew and remove the rear shock-mounting bolt which connects the rear of the shock to the swingarm (see Fig. 2). Once the bolt is removed, allow the swingarm to rotate down so that it no longer contacts the shock.
   
3. Spin the shock body clockwise within the mounting collar (when viewed from the front of the bike) to increase angles/raise the bottom bracket, spin it counter-clockwise to decrease angles/lower the bottom bracket.
4. After threading the shock body to the desired position within the mounting collar, align the bolt holes at the rear of the shock with those on the swingarm and reinstall the shock-mounting bolt. Tighten the shock mounting bolt to 106 In-Lbs (12 Nm).
5. Secure the shock in place using a Park red pin spanner by tightening the lock ring against the shock-mounting collar. Tighten the lock ring firmly to prevent the shock from moving within the collar's threads.

Air-sprung shocks

1. Loosen the lockring on the shock body, located just in front of the shock-mounting collar, by turning it counterclockwise (when viewed from the front of the bike) using a Park red pin spanner tool. If your bike is equipped with Cannondale Remote Rear Lockout, you will need to loosen the cable set screw, disconnect the lockout cable from the lockout cam, and remove the cable and housing from the cable stop bracket on the shock.
2. Unscrew and remove the two aluminum bolts that attach the shoc kmounting collar to the front triangle (see Fig. 3). Be sure that the hex wrench is fully engaged within each bolt head or the wrench may slip and strip out the bolt. Once the bolts are removed, allow the swingarm to rotate down and the shock to pivot down on the rear shock-mounting bolt.
   
3. Spin the mounting collar clockwise on the shock body (when viewed from the front of the bike) to decrease angles/lower the bottom bracket, spin it counter-clockwise to increase angles/raise the bottom bracket.
4. After threading the shock-mounting collar to the desired position on the shock body, align the bolt holes on the mounting collar with those on the front triangle. Make sure to fully engage the hex wrench in each aluminum shock-mounting bolt before reinstalling, and torque them to 150 In-Lbs (17Nm). After the first three geometry adjustments, one drop of Loctite 242 (blue) should be applied to the threads of each of these shock-mounting bolts before their re-installation.
5. Secure the shock in place using a Park red pin spanner by tightening the lock ring against the shock-mounting collar. Tighten the lock ring firmly to prevent the shock from moving within the collar's threads. If your bike is equipped with Cannondale Remote Rear Lockout, see the Cannondale Remote Rear Lockout instruction supplement (available on the web), or an authorized Cannondale retailer, for detailed instructions on how to set it back up properly.

NOTE: After making a geometry adjustment, you may want to change the angle and/or position of your saddle to maintain optimal comfort and your desired riding position.

If your geometry adjustment increases the angles/raises the bottom bracket the bike, make sure that the front derailleur doesn't interfere with the chainring teeth. See the following paragraph about front derailleur adjustment.

FRONT DERAILLEUR ADJUSTMENT

(VERY IMPORTANT)

The Jekyll's rear suspension design places the front derailleur's attachment point on the swingarm, meaning that the derailleur's position relative to the chainrings changes as the swingarm position changes. A properly positioned Jekyll front derailleur will not suffer decreased performance through regular shock compression and rebound, but a front derailleur not repositioned after an increasing angles/raising BB geometry adjustment will cause poor shifting and risks damage to the derailleur and front chainrings.

There are two basic schools of thought about how often to adjust Jekyll front derailleur position:

1. For riders who change geometry often and don't want to adjust the front derailleur every time, the front derailleur position can be adjusted once - with the shock set back fully in the shock mounting collar (steepest angles/highest bottom bracket, see Fig. 4)
   
   and ridden that way regardless of future geometry adjustment. This method sacrifices a bit of shifting performance for maximum riding time and minimum fussing over the front derailleur.
2. For riders who find a geometry setting they like and stick with it, or for riders who are unwilling to compromise shifting performance regardless of the amount they adjust the geometry, the front derailleur position can be re-adjusted every time the geometry changes. Of course this means a little more time in the bike stand but it returns excellent shifting.

Proper positioning for a Jekyll front derailleur should be set with the shock adjusted to the desired position in its mounting collar and with no weight on the bike. If you're a rider #1 from the paragraph above, the shock should be positioned fully aft in the mounting collar. For option 2, the shock will be set to whatever position you just chose. Either way, the derailleur cage should measure approximately 1mm-3mm above the large chainring (see Fig. 5).

Regardless of how often you choose to re-position the front derailleur, its positioning must be checked whenever changing geometry to increase angles/raise the bottom bracket. Because the rear end of the derailleur cage moves towards the chainrings whenever the shock is threaded aft in the shock mounting collar, there is real danger that this type of geometry adjustment will put an out-of-position front derailleur into contact with the outer chainring. In contrast, checking front derailleur adjustment when decreasing angles/lowering the bottom bracket will benefit shifting but is not critical.

If the Jekyll's rear shock is moved to a more rearward position in the frame's pivoting collar, the front derailleur position must be checked before riding. If the front derailleur catches on the chainring teeth, you could damage or destroy your front derailleur. You also risk a serious crash, which could cause injury or death. If you do not understand and have experience with the above procedure for adjusting the front derailleur, please see an authorized Cannondale retailer.

JEKYLL REAR SUSPENSION PRELOAD ADJUSTMENT

Cannondale Jekylls use uniquely designed shocks to provide 130mm of rear wheel travel. (Note that some coil-sprung rear shocks with 1.5 inch stroke have 110mm of rear travel). To get the best performance from the rear suspension, shock preload should be adjusted to suit the rider's weight.

Sag and Preload Adjustment

All types of rear shock involve some amount of preload adjustment. Preload directly affects the amount of sag you get out of the shock. Sag is a measure of how much shock travel you use when gently compressing the suspension using only your body weight, and is essential for adjusting the bike to your weight and riding style. Correctly sagging your rear suspension allows the shock to remain active in the middle of its travel, rather than constantly topping or bottoming out.

Setting preload and sag on coil-sprung shocks is accomplished by tightening the spring preload ring (minor adjustments) or by changing spring weight (major adjustments). Minor adjustments, meaning those made for the sake of ride tuning, are made by tightening or loosening the preload ring no more than two turns. Turning the preload ring clockwise increases preload, turning it counter-clockwise lessens preload. Major preload adjustment on coil-sprung shocks, such as re-tuning a 150pound rider's bike for a 225 pounder, is made by changing to a lighter or heavier gauge coil spring. Preload and sag adjustment on air shocks, whether minor or major, is done simply by adding or removing air from the shock.

The following steps will help you find the right settings:

1. Start coil-sprung and air-sprung shock adjustment with the rider off the bike. On coil shocks, the preload ring should be threaded just tight against the spring. On air shocks, first clean any dirt from the area around the Schrader valve. Then use a high-pressure pump (with gauge) to add air pressure equal to the rider's weight in p.s.i. If you can't easily access the Schrader valve to be able to attach a high pressure suspension pump, loosen the shock lock ring using a Park red pin spanner tool, place a 13mm wrench on the forward end of the shock body, and rotate the valve to an accessible position (see "Jekyll Geometry Adjustment" above for details on this procedure).
2. While off the bike, fully compress the rear suspension once. Thenslide the shock wiper o-ring (or use a small zip tie) up the shock body (air shock) or shaft (coil shock) so that it contacts the air sleeve or shock body (see Fig. 6).
   
3. Gently get onto the bike and assume your normal riding position. Be sure your weight is distributed between the seat, pedals, and handlebar as it is when you ride. It's important not to bounce while doing this. You may find it helpful to lean against a wall or other stationary object. Now dismount the bike, again taking care not to bounce.
4. Measure the distance between the wiper o-ring or zip tie and the air sleeve or shock body. This distance is the suspension sag (see Fig. 7).
   
   Cannondale recommends using about 30% of your Jekyll rear shock travel for sag. On a Jekyll coil-shock with a 1.5" (38.1mm) stroke, this amounts to approximately 0.5" (12.7mm). Jekyll air shocks have a 1.75" (44.5mm) stroke and should therefore be sagged in about 0.525" (13.3mm). Add or subtract shock preload and re-measure sag as many times as necessary to achieve the setting you want.

Riding a coil shock-equipped Jekyll with too much or too little preload can damage the shock. You should preload the coil spring at least enough so that it is held in place by the preload ring and the spring retainer. FOX Racing Shox recommends no more than two (2) turns of preload. If setting your desired amount of sag results in a preload setting that falls outside these guidelines, you need a softer or firmer spring. Contact your authorized Cannondale retailer for information on replacing your coil spring.

NOTE: Rear suspension preload is a matter of personal preference. We encourage you to experiment with different preload settings and find the setting that suits you best. If too much preload is set (very little sag), the suspension may be stiff and unresponsive over small bumps. Alternately, with too little preload (lots of sag), the rider may feel some amount of "bouncing" while climbing or sprinting, and may tend to bottom out the shock (compress it to the limit of its travel) on large bumps.

Compression and Rebound Damping Adjustment

Adjusting compression and rebound damping allows you to change how quickly the shock reacts to changing terrain. The shock compresses when you hit a bump in the trail, and rebounds after your rear wheel passes over the bump. Many rear shocks offer you the ability to adjust rebound, and some compression, with knobs or dials on the exterior of the shock body. Some FOX Shox, for example, feature a red knob for rebound adjustment and a blue one for compression. See your rear shock owner's manual for details on how to adjust your compression and rebound settings.

NOTE: Setting compression and rebound are, like setting preload, matters of personal preference. Generally they should be as fast as possible without making the rear suspension kick back and force you off the saddle when riding rough terrain. Slow compression may not allow the rear shock to compress fully and use all of your rear wheel travel, while slow rebound may not allow the rear wheel to properly follow changing terrain. Spend as much time as you need to find settings that make you comfortable by trying different settings in a variety of conditions.

WARNING FOR ALL CANNONDALES

POTENTIAL HAZARD
While the Jekyll is designed for use in the most demanding off-road conditions, Cannondale cannot anticipate and design around every situation in which you will put yourself. Given the realities of mountain bike riding, the risks you choose to take, and/or the limits of your own ability, you may lose control of your bike.

WHAT CAN HAPPEN
A loss of control may result in severe injury, paralysis, or death.

HOW TO AVOID THE HAZARD
The hazards of mountain biking cannot be avoided completely. They can be minimized with training, practice, progressive learning and experience, by wearing a helmet and other protective gear, and by using good judgement at all times. Regardless of your current ability, there will be a learning curve associated with riding your Jekyll.

Reading and understanding this supplement, the Cannondale Owner's Manual, and all warning labels is essential and will help you begin the learning process.

There are additional important warnings throughout this manual. Please read and follow all of them. Many hazards are described, and we have attempted to explain how to avoid or minimize the hazards. Because any fall or crash can result in serious injury or even death we do not repeat the warning of potential consequences every time we call attention to a hazard. Some low speed falls may result in serious injury, and some high speed crashes may result in none. The reality is that the exact nature of the consequences is not predictable.

Please note that this manual supplements the Cannondale Bicycle Owner's Manual. The Owner's Manual contains valuable information regarding the safe operation, adjustment, and maintenance of your bicycle, as well as more complete warranty information. See "MOUNTAIN BIKE USAGE" Section. Please read the Cannondale Bicycle Owner's Manual thoroughly before riding your bicycle, and keep both it and this supplement for future reference.

FOR ALL CANNONDALE FRAMES

Inspect the frame and fork carefully for damage after any crash, drop, impact to the frame, or other harsh treatment. Riding a cracked frame or fork could lead to complete bicycle failure. Like other high performance structures, this frame and fork should be inspected periodically for cracks. DO NOT RIDE a bike with any crack, even a small one. If you discover a crack, see your authorized Cannondale retailer or call one of our customer service lines. A crack will weaken the frame or fork and could lead to failure, with risk of serious injury or death to the rider.

WARNING CONCERNING FREERIDING

FUNDAMENTAL RISK
There is an area that is growing and evolving within mountain biking. Call it Freeriding, Dirt Jumping, Hucking or a new name a magazine writer is typing this minute, it is very dangerous. Downhill or Slalom riding is also very dangerous. To engage in this type of riding, riding widely shown in print and video, is to voluntarily assume a very large risk of serious injury, paralysis, or death. The fact that this type of riding is exciting to watch and commonly shown does not mean that it is safe, commonly practiced, or that you should try to copy the riders you see.

How do you avoid this significant hazard? Do not do it!
Read the Cannondale Owner's Manual.
The riders you see doing such stunts are experienced professionals or daredevils who have chosen to accept or ignore the risks.

You see NASCAR drivers risking death on TV. Would you copy them when you drive? Would you allow a lawyer to say that you are so weak-willed and have such poor judgement that you copy what you see in the media without thought of the serious risks?

Cannondale does not seek to "promote" dangerous activities. Cannondale sponsors professional riders with fantastic skills. Some of these riders engage in these exciting, dangerous new areas of riding. These riders have free will. These riders do not ask Cannondale for clearance to ride in any particular way. These riders rely on skills developed through years of progressive learning and practice to ride in ways that you cannot and must not copy.

PRODUCT LIMITATIONS
Cannondale designs bicycles that may be used for Freeriding, Hucking, etc. Our engineers anticipate and test for hard use. However, the circumstances of any stunt or jump can be very different. The judgement, lack of judgement, or insanity of a rider that may ride a Cannondale bicycle cannot be completely predicted.

Say we design a bike to withstand a particular six foot drop off. There are no industry "jumping" standards. We cannot label a bike as "OK for a six foot drop" because the many circumstances of takeoff, landing, speed, rider technique, etc. are unique and make such a rating misleading and meaningless.

Any product has its limitations. Think about a lifetime warranty. A lifetime warranty does not mean that the bicycle cannot be broken or will last forever. It certainly does not mean the bicycle can in any way protect you from injury. It means the bicycle may be replaced subject to the terms of the warranty.

Think twice if you see a bike, from any manufacturer, marketed as "unbreakable" or "bulletproof". There is no such thing.

YOUR RESPONSIBILITY
Have you chosen the right tools for the job? Some bicycles are not designed or intended for this type of riding. Some bicycles were designed before this type of riding evolved! Common sense tells you that a lightweight cross country bike is not intended for Freeriding, Downhill, or Slalom riding. Common sense tells you that you need a heavier, stronger, longer travel bicycle for Freeriding, Downhill, or Slalom riding. We urge you to consult with a bicycleretailer about which bike models and safety equipment will be most appropriate for your riding style, terrain, body weight, experience, etc. Work with a retailer to make informed choices for your needs.
Do you know your limitations? Practice and learn to stay in control. Carefully, progressively learn to expand your limits, but always ride within them.

CONTACT INFORMATION

For warranty related questions or for more information on this or any Cannondale product, please feel free to contact us.

http://www.cannondale.com
custserv@cannondale.com

Documents / Resources

References

• Cannondale Bikes | Road, Mountain, Kids, Electric Bikes

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