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Release from Liability Upon reading this, the user of the respective Tsurumi product and Overhaul Manual acknowledges and understands Tsurumi Europe shall not be held liable for any user injury that occurs during the inspection and disassembly/assembly of the product. The users also acknowledge that they will be held responsible for any damage or destruction inflicted onto the product, and/or for the loss of parts during inspection and self-performed maintenance.
C series | 80C21.5-52 The following is a guideline for the overhaul of the 1.5kW Tsurumi C Series submersible pumps. Use this guide, along with the parts list, exploded view diagram, and operation manual for your particular pump model to disassemble, inspect, and rebuild your pump to factory conditions.
Electrical Testing Perform proper electrical testings. Please refer to the operation manual. All electrical work must be performed by an authorized electrician only in compliance with local electrical equipment standards and internal wiring codes. Never allow an unauthorized person to perform electrical work because it is not only against the law, but it can also be extremely dangerous.
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Cable Inspection Measure and inspect pump cable. Bullet Connectors If there are any cuts or other deformities in the cable, or the cable is less than the original length, the cable should be replaced. Remove the two bolts securing the cable gland to the motor frame.
Inspect Pump Wet End for Wear and/or Debris If your pump motor is running but is not performing as new, there could be wear to the impeller and wear plate or foreign debris stuck in the pump casing.
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Remove Strainer Stand Place the pump with strainer side up, and remove the three Hex bolts securing the strainer stand. With the strainer stand removed, check impeller to suction cover clearance with a feeler gauge. Clearance should be 0.5 mm for 80C21.5-52. The acceptable range is ± 0.1mm from the value. (for other pump models, please contact your local Tsurumi distributor) The clearance can be adjusted by adding/removing suction cover packings and/or impeller shims.
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Remove Impeller Using a correct socket on an impact wrench, remove the hex cap nut and washers securing the impeller. It may be necessary to hold the impeller in place while unfastening the hex cap nut. Once the impeller is removed, the impeller shims, shaft sleeve, and oil seal can now be removed for inspection.
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Impeller Key Remove Impeller Key and Shims Once the impeller is removed, the impeller shims (may or may not be present), impeller key can now be removed for inspection. If these components are damaged or have excessive wear, they should be replaced with new.
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Air Release Valve Remove Air Release Valve Check to make sure this is not clogged with debris. Clean well while inspection. If the ball is not allowed to seat properly, the pump can airlock and/or water will spray from here.
Inspect Oil Chamber It is recommended to inspect the oil every 6000 hours or 12 months of operation, whichever comes first. If there is water in the oil chamber or the oil level is low, this is evidence of a worn mechanical seal, which should be replaced before irreparable damage or bodily injury occurs.
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Oil Plug Drain and Inspect Oil To drain the oil, remove the Oil Plug located on the side of the pump. Oil casing may be under pressure, so be sure to wear eye protection, and shield the oil from spraying everywhere. Drain the oil into a clear, graduated container.
Inspect/Remove Mechanical Seal If oil or debris was found in the oil chamber, or oil level is low, it is necessary to change the mechanical seal.
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Remove Pump Casing If there is evidence that mechanical seal is leaking (water or debris in the oil or motor has failed the Megger test), it will be necessary to remove the pump casing from the motor frame. This is the area in which the mechanical seal sits.
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Inspect Oil Casing, O-Ring, Oil Lifter, and Mechanical Seal. It is recommended to use only new packings and O-rings upon re-assembly, so the O-ring will NOT be re-used. Check for debris, or grit in the oil chamber, and make sure oil lifter is not cracked or otherwise damaged.
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Remove Oil Lifter to Expose Stationary Seal The oil lifter is attached to the seal stopper with (2) pan screws. Remove these, and the screws holding the seal stopper in place to allow removal of the stationary portion of the lower mechanical seal. Oil Lifter Seal Stopper (Underneath)
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Carefully Remove the Motor Side Stationary Seal from Pump Casing Using a pick or small flat blade screwdriver, carefully pry up around rubber elastomer of mechanical seal and lift the seal out of the race. The seal will not be re-used, but in case of inspection, don’t crack or damage it in any way.
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Remove Lower Rotary Seal (Impeller side) With two flat blade screwdrivers, CAREFULLY pry the upper portion of the rotary mechanical seal up and remove this face along with the spring. Take care not to damage the rotor shaft with the screwdrivers.
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Remove Upper Rotary Seal (Motor side) With the impeller side seal and spring removed, remove the motor side seal. Take care not to damage the rotor shaft with the screwdrivers. Upper Rotary Seal...
Motor Inspection If your pump is tripping a circuit breaker or other device, this is evidence of an internal short in the motor or the cable. If your pump is making abnormal grinding noises or doesn’t spin, this is evidence of damaged bearings. Both would require disassembly and inspection of the motor components.
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Remove Motor Bracket Attach two sets of vice grip pliers to opposite sides of the bearing housing as shown, and pull back and forth to separate from motor frame. Bearing Make sure to collect the wave washer for upper housing and rotor should come out bearing if it’s fallen off inside the stator.
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Remove & Inspect Circle Thermal Motor Protector The Tsurumi CTP motor protector is a bi-metallic disc that senses excessive heat builds up and excessive current draw in the motor. Once the metal disc reaches a specific temperature, it will ‘pop up’ and open contacts to all three phases of the motor.
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Remove Upper Stationary Seal from Motor Casing Using a pick or small flat blade screwdriver, carefully pry it out of the Bearing Housing. The seal will not be re-used, but in case of inspection, don’t crack or damage it.
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Carefully Remove Oil Seal from Pump Casing Using a punch or small screwdriver, carefully pry out the oil seal from the pump casing, taking care not to damage the seal race in the pump casing. Oil Seal...
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Inspect All Components for Replacement With disassembly complete, inspect all the components for wear or damage, and make a list of components that will need to be replaced. All Packings and O-rings should be replaced along with the mechanical seal and oil. For all other parts, use your discretion.
Pump Reassembly Once all components have been verified to be in operable condition, we can now re-assemble the pump. New O-Rings and Packing materials are available as a kit, and should always be used upon re-assembly...
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Lay Out Mechanical Seal for Proper Placement It is very important that the mechanical seal components are oriented properly when installed. This is how they should appear on the shaft. Left to right = Top to bottom Motor Side Impeller Side...
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Reassemble Motor • Coat with fresh oil and install upper stationary seal in to the bearing housing. • Place bearing housing/rotor assembly back into motor frame/stator assembly. * Make sure all the components such as motor protector are already connected/assembled together with the bearing housing assembly. Also, place lead wire protection plate and wave washer back on to top of upper bearing.
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Assemble Lower Stationary Seals & Seal Stopper Coat mechanical seal components with fresh oil. Carefully press lower stationary seal into the pump casing. Ensure the seal is properly seated and sitting parallel to the casings. Install seal stopper and oil lifter with the pan screws. Oil Lifter Seal Stopper Seal Stopper...
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Reassemble Rotary Seals Coat rotor shaft with oil and carefully press upper (motor side) rotary seal onto shaft until it touches the upper stationary seal. Lastly place spring against seal ring and carefully press lower rotary seal on the shaft.
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Reassemble Pump Casing Rotary seals will quickly compress on shaft, so run them back and forth on the shaft until pump casing is ready to be placed onto motor housing. Tighten bolts fastening pump casing to motor frame, and turn pump on it’s side.
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Reassemble Wet End Press oil seal into bottom of pump casing, and place impeller shim on rotor shaft before assembling impeller key and impeller onto rotor shaft. Place spring washer and fasten with acorn nut. Oil Seal Impeller Key Impeller...
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Reassemble Wet End Place suction cover packing, and suction cover. Tighten hex bolts. Now using a feeler gauge, check impeller to suction cover clearance. Clearance should be 0.5 mm for 80C21.5-52. The acceptable range is ± 0.1mm from the value. (for other pump models, please contact your local Tsurumi distributor) The clearance can be adjusted by adding/removing suction cover packings and/or impeller shims.
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Reassemble Wet End Finally re-assemble pump stand to suction cover. Strainer Stand...
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Reassemble Top End Connect bullet connectors of cable assembly to leads from motor housing. [ U: Brown V: Grey W: Black G: Green/Yellow ] Bullet connectors will ‘snap’ when they are fastened properly. Place leads back into head cover. Fasten gland to head cover using hex bolts. Bullet Connectors...
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Air Tightness Test Oil Casing With an air tight fitting, test if the mechanical seal is seated properly. If the chamber can hold for more than 1 minute, the seal is seated properly and will not leak.
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Fill With New Oil Fill new oil to the oil chamber by opening the oil plug. Oil capacity can be found in the operation manual for your particular model. Secure Oil Plug, using a new packing gasket.
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Perform Run Test Connect pump cable to power supply rated for the pump. Make sure pump is pushing air and there is no abnormal noises coming from the unit. Pump should make a steady humming sound when running. If there are any questions, feel free to contact us at sales@tsurumi.eu.
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