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Bar Mounting
The holes you have drilled for bar mounting were different depending on the type
of door. Similarly the final mounting procedure depends on the door type.
HOLLOW METAL DOOR
1
Identify the four supplied blind nuts.
2
Insert the nuts with the knurl engaging the edge of each hole.
3
Utilize the supplied collapsing tool to collapse the nuts.
Use of the tool is shown in Diagram 3.
4
Use the shorter (2-1/4" or 54 mm) supplied machine screws.
5
Place a tooth washer under the head of each screw
and mount the bar. Do not over torque.
THROUGH BOLT + SEX BOLT MOUNTING
1
Using longer 3-1/2" (90 mm) machine screws with the sex
bolts supplied in the Securitron TSB-TDM kit. You should have
already drilled 1/4" (6 mm) holes through the door.
2
From the outside of the door, enlarge the holes to 3/8" (9.5 mm)
diameter, 1" (25 mm) deep. Push in the sex bolts.
3
Place a tooth washer under the head of each screw and mount the bar.
NOTE: that the screw length is suitable for a 1-3/4" (44 mm) thick door.
Nearly all North American commercial doors are this thickness. If you have a door
of different thickness, a number of techniques can be applied. Screws of different
lengths can be purchased or the supplied screws may be cut (if the door is thinner).
Since the sex bolts are short, however, some final adjustments may be necessary. Spacing
washers may be added under the screw heads but if you raise the heads too high they
will interfere with removal of the circuit board (if this ever becomes necessary).
The board can still be removed but the mounting screws will have to come out
first and this is inconvenient. Another technique that is possible on solid doors
is to recess the sex bolts into the door by using a 1/2" (12.5 mm) counter bore.
SOLID WOOD DOOR
If you have elected to use wood screws (not furnished), place a tooth
washer under the head of each screw and mount the bar.
Cutting the Bar
If the bar needs to be shortened to install properly,
it can be easily cut in the field. It must be cut from
the end which does not mount the sensor.
1
REMOVE the end piece completely by unscrewing
the two self tapping screws that hold it to the bar.
It is better to remove both end pieces so as to avoid
damaging the sensor circuit board by metal filings.
NOTE: that when you remove the second end piece which
carries the sensor, the sensor will slide out easily with
the end piece. There is, however, a ring terminal which
circles one of the end piece-to-bar mounting screws.
This ring terminal is connected by a wire to the circuit
board. This connection is how the sensor "sees" the bar.
2
When you REINSTALL the end piece, be
sure to reinstall the ring terminal.
NOTES: Cutting is ideally performed by a band or cut-off saw
to produce a neat result. However, with care, a hacksaw can be
used. The cut need not be perfect because the bar "pockets" into
the end cap. This hides a poor cut from viewing from the front.
The rear of the bar is not pocketed, however, and if
the bar is being mounted on an aluminum frame glass
door, a sloppy cut will be apparent from the outside
and will worsen the appearance of the installation.
Diagram 3 Collapsing the blind nuts (Metal Door).
FLAT WASHER
Hold with wrench
or vise grip while
turning cap screw
Drill 3/8" [9.5mm] hole
press in blind nut as shown
BLIND NUT
Collapses when cap screw turned
with allen wrench while tool held
fast with box wrench
Diagram 4 End view showing three fastening
methods depending on door type.
Metal Door
2-1/4" [57mm]
Machine Screw
Blind Nut
Through Bolt +
Sex Bolt Mounting
3-1/2" [90mm]
Machine Screw
Solid Wood Door
with Wood Screws
2-3/4" [70mm]
Wood Screw
CAP SCREW
While turning with allen
wrench, press in to keep
nut seated in door
TOOL
KNURL
DOOR
Sex Bolt
3 of 8
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