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Summary of Contents for AkitikA PR102NR
- Page 1 PR-102 STEREOPREAMPLIFIER ASSEMBLY MANUAL © 2019-2021 AkitikA LLC All rights reserved Revision 2p05 September 24, 2021 Page 1 of 80...
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Page 2: Table Of Contents
Table of Contents Table of Contents ........................ 2 Table of Figures ........................4 Section 1: About This Manual .................... 7 Who Should Attempt this Project? ................. 7 Tools you’ll need ......................7 Helpful Tools ........................8 Project Overview ......................8 Important Safety Notes .................... - Page 3 Install the Resistor Networks ..................33 Install the Ferrite Beads ....................34 Install the Control Cable Connectors and Controller Socket ........35 Components to be installed later ................... 36 Locations that remain unpopulated ................36 You’ve Finished this Side of the Controller PCB for Now ........36 Install the Push Buttons ....................
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Page 4: Table Of Figures
Install the Diodes ......................58 Install C13 and C14....................59 Install the sockets for IC1 through IC3 ..............59 Install the Bypass Caps ....................59 Install the Relays ......................59 Install the 14-pin cable connector................. 60 Install the remaining non-polar capacitors ..............60 Install the polarized electrolytic bypass capacitor ............ - Page 5 Figure 13-Installing power outlets and IEC connector...watch orientation! Installing the power switch…watch orientation! ..................19 Figure 14-Insert cable ties, then lay twisted pair into the chassis corner ......21 Figure 15-Form switch wires to avoid the ground stud ............ 23 Figure 16-Adding Lug to Ground Harness ...............
- Page 6 Figure 56-input selector page 3..................79 Figure 57-power supply schematic ................... 80 Page 6 of 80...
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Page 7: Section 1: About This Manual
Section 1: About This Manual This manual gives the information needed to build and use Akitika LLC’s PR-102 Stereo Preamplifier. It’s very similar to its predecessor, the PR-101, but it has the following new features: The F3 button is now named MONO. When the LED is ON, both left and right channel inputs are combined into a monophonic signal. -
Page 8: Helpful Tools
Important Safety Notes By purchasing, using, or assembling this kit, you have agreed to hold Akitika LLC harmless for any injuries you may receive in its assembly and/or use. To prevent injuries: Wear safety glasses when soldering or clipping wires to prevent eye injuries. -
Page 9: Recommended Solder
63/37 Rosin Core solder. Akitika LLC’s liability shall in no event exceed the cost paid to Akitika LLC for the kit. Page 9 of 80... -
Page 10: Section 2: About Building The Kit
A lead-bending jig can make for quicker, neater assembly. It’s certainly not necessary. Is something in this manual confusing? Does something look wrong? Send your questions by email to dan@akitika.com. You’ll help yourself and everyone who builds the kit. Page 10 of 80... -
Page 11: Section 3: Building The Power Supply Pcb
Section 3: Building the Power Supply PCB This section details the process of building the power supply circuit board. Begin by carefully emptying the contents of the envelope marked “PR-101 Power Supply” into a broad soup bowl, as shown below. The envelope might also be marked “PR-102 power supply”. -
Page 12: Install The Diodes
You’ll notice that the component designations in the directions don’t go exactly in order. We have grouped them so that all components with the same value appear together. This makes assembly easier. You’ll find in the parts kit that similar parts, e.g. 3 1K resistors, are typically (though not always) taped together. -
Page 13: Install The Not So Tall Polarized Capacitors
0.1 µF 100 V Ceramic, 104 0.1 µF 100 V Ceramic, 104 0.1 µF 100 V Ceramic, 104 0.1 µF 100 V Ceramic, 104 0.01 µF 400 V Mylar, 10n (stands for 10 nano-Farads) 0.01 µF 400 V Mylar, 10n (stands for 10 nano-Farads) 0.033 µF 300 V AC, box shaped cap Install the Not so Tall Polarized Capacitors... -
Page 14: Install The Regulators And Heat Sinks
Figure 4-Assembling Heatsink to a Regulator Install the Regulators and Heat Sinks For each of the three regulators (U1, U2, and U3), the installation process is the same, with the result as shown in Figure 4. Note: U2 uses the tall heat sink! ... -
Page 15: Install The Agd-Bgd Jumper
Figure 5-Solder heat sink mounting rods to retain the heat sink Install the AGD-BGD jumper Prepare the AGD to BGD jumper wire using some of the 22 AWG solid green wire supplied with the power supply kit. Figure 6-Preparing green wire AGD-BGD jumper Connect AGD and BGD. -
Page 16: These Components Are Not Loaded
Figure 9-Jumper installation for 120 Volt Operation (left side) and 240 Volt (right side) Figure 10-Power Supply before transformer is installed, wired for 120 Volts These Components Are Not Loaded Three-pin headers TB1-TB6 and two-pin headers TB7-TB10 are not loaded in the standard kit assembly. -
Page 17: Section 4: Chassis Assembly And Power Wiring
Section 4: Chassis Assembly and Power Wiring We’ll take a detour from PCB assembly to do some of the chassis assembly. This will give you a safe way to power up and test the power supply. Protect your PR-102 Spread a towel over your work surface before you begin the steps outlined in this section. That towel will prevent you from scratching the finish of your PR-102 during these assembly steps. -
Page 18: Figure 12-Ir Window With Release Paper, Die Cut Mounting Tape
2. The next steps describe installation of the IR window into the chassis. It installs from the inside, into the indicated rectangular hole: 3. Locate the black plastic window. Peel the release paper from both sides of the window if it is present. Figure 12-IR Window with release paper, die cut mounting tape 4. -
Page 19: Install Back Panel Power Connectors And Front Panel Power Switch
10. If you’re satisfied with the window position, press it firmly against the chassis to seat it well in place. Install Back Panel Power Connectors and Front Panel Power Switch The switched outlet, non-switched outlet, and IEC power input connector push into the chassis from the outside and are retained by an amazingly effective built-in spring clip mechanism. -
Page 20: Power Wiring
Power Wiring The kit includes five pre-built wiring harnesses with fully insulated FASTON connectors to make the power wiring easy and safe. The FASTONs take a little force to push on, and a lot more force to remove. You can save your fingers if you use needle nose pliers to push the FASTON connectors in place. -
Page 21: Figure 14-Insert Cable Ties, Then Lay Twisted Pair Into The Chassis Corner
5. Connect the red 0.187” wide FASTON to the unswitched outlet contact farthest from the chassis wall. 6. For now, leave the remaining long end with the FASTON connector loose. 7. Twist the white and black wires from steps 3 and 6 together to form an insulated, twisted pair. - Page 22 Locate the black switched power harness. It has black wire with 2 FASTONs. 1. Connect the blue 0.187” wide FASTON to the switched outlet contact closest to the chassis wall. 2. The black 22 AWG wire will connect to the power supply PCB in a later step. 3.
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Page 23: Figure 15-Form Switch Wires To Avoid The Ground Stud
9. Connect the Black wire of the twisted pair to the top row switch contact closest to the chassis wall. 10. Connect the white wire of the twisted pair to the remaining top row switch contact. 11. Make sure that the wires are formed to avoid the nearby ground stud. Figure 15-Form switch wires to avoid the ground stud 12. -
Page 24: Connecting The Chassis Ground
Connecting the Chassis Ground Locate the #6 toothed lug. It’s packed in the “Screw Nut Lug” envelope. Locate the green ground harness. It has green wire with 3 FASTONs. 1. Cut the long green wire to 8” length as shown in Figure 16. 2. -
Page 25: Figure 18-Transformer And Power Supply Assembly Ready For Installation
Figure 18-Transformer and power supply assembly ready for installation Prepare the transformer wires for connection to the power supply PCB as follows, twisting the wires approximately every inch: 1. Form a twisted pair from the brown and blue wires. a. Cut the twisted pair to a 4” length from the transformer. b. -
Page 26: Add Power Output Wires To The Power Supply
d. Insert the gray wire into the power supply PCB hole labeled gray, and solder the wire on the solder side. Clip the extra on the solder side. e. Insert the white wire into the power supply PCB hole labeled white, and solder the wire on the solder side. -
Page 27: 12 Volt Power Wires
12 Volt Power wires Locate the thicker gray jacketed cable. Note that there is also thinner gray jacketed cable. Find both and compare them to make sure you really have the thicker gray jacketed cable. Now that you’re sure you have the thicker gray jacketed cable, beneath the gray jacket you’ll find: ... -
Page 28: Connect Power Input Wires And Install The Power Supply
5V power and ground wire installation Done? () Twist and tin the bare end of the 14” red wire. Twist and tin the bare end of the 14” black wire. Insert the tinned 14” red wire from the bottom of the power supply board into the TB9 hole marked +5V and solder it on the top side. -
Page 29: Prepare To Test The Power Supply
Figure 19-Fasten the transformer to the preamp right side wall Figure 20-Power Supply assembled and installed Prepare to Test the power supply Make sure that none of the unconnected ends of the power supply can contact any other wire. That’s why we left the unconnected ends with their insulation in place. If you have any doubts, individually tape the unconnected ends to prevent any possibility of short circuits. -
Page 30: Test The Power Supply
Remove the power cord from the wall and from the IEC power connector. Warning: do not go any further until the power supply has passed its test. If you’re having trouble, please send email to dan@akitika.com for troubleshooting advice. Page 30 of 80... -
Page 31: Section 5: Assembling The Controller
Section 5: Assembling the Controller Carefully empty the contents of the envelope marked “PR-102 Controller” into a broad soup bowl. Locate the controller PCB, and read the next box very carefully! The controller board is a bit unusual in that components will be installed on both sides of the PCB. -
Page 32: Install The Non-Polarized Capacitors
Yellow, white, white, black, brown Yellow, white, white, black, brown Yellow, white, white, black, brown Yellow, white, white, black, brown Yellow, white, white, black, brown Yellow, white, white, black, brown Yellow, white, white, black, brown Yellow, white, white, black, brown Yellow, white, white, black, brown Yellow, white, white, black, brown Yellow, white, white, black, brown... -
Page 33: Install The Ic's And Transistor
Install the IC’s and Transistor Make sure to orient the IC’s correctly when you install them. After you install each IC, bend over two diagonally opposed leads to retain the IC. Then double check to make sure that: You have the correct IC in the correct location. ... -
Page 34: Install The Ferrite Beads
8 10K Install RN2 in the indicated place. Make sure that resistors pin 1 of RN2, marked by the dot, goes into the square pad in the RN2 hole pattern on the PCB. Solder the two end pins first to make sure that RN2 is sitting level on the board. -
Page 35: Install The Control Cable Connectors And Controller Socket
Install the Control Cable Connectors and Controller Socket Insert the 14-pin cable connector, P6. Make sure to install the 14-pin connector in the orientation shown in Figure 23. Figure 23-14 and 16 pin cable connector installation Solder two corner pins, and make sure that you’ve got it right one more time before you solder the remainder of the pins. -
Page 36: Components To Be Installed Later
1. tack-solder two corner pins 2. Make sure that socket lies flush. 3. If the socket isn’t flush, then melt one or the other of the tack soldered corner pins to get the socket flush to the board. 4. Finish soldering the balance of the 20 pin socket pins. Components to be installed later C7, C8, and C13 will be installed in a later step (along with C2), after you’ve installed all the components on the other side of the controlled PCB. -
Page 37: Install The Infrared Detector
You’ll note an unusual order to the buttons below. If you follow that order, then you install the outside corner buttons first. That makes it easy to correctly install the rest of the buttons. Here’s a good way to install the push buttons. Set SW1, SW11, SW2, and SW7 in the marked silk screen areas. -
Page 38: Install The Leds
Insert the IR detector on the same side as the switches, and solder the three leads on the other side of the controller PCB. You can set the height perfectly by temporarily placing C2 underneath the IR detector. The spacing isn’t critical, but if you set it too high off the board, it will bump into the IR window in the front panel. -
Page 39: Figure 28-Observe D8 Installed And Orientation Of The Lead Frame Of The Led
Figure 28-Observe D8 installed and orientation of the lead frame of the LED Figure 28 gives you one more check to get the LED installation correct. 1 out of 100 people have done this wrong! Don’t be part of that 1%! Designation Description Done ... -
Page 40: Install The Last Four Capacitors
Install the Last Four Capacitors These capacitors are installed on the side of the board where you began assembly. We’ve left them off the board until now to make it easier to solder the LEDs in place and to prevent strain on the capacitors. 2200 pF Film 63 volt, 2n2K63 Be careful of C7, C8, and C13’s polarity when you install them. -
Page 41: Install The Controller Power Wire
the LEDs. The switches will guard the LEDs from most casual bumps as you continue the next section’s assembly. Install the Controller Power Wire Identify the free end of the red/black zip cord that comes from TB9 of the power supply board. -
Page 42: Test The Controller Pcb
It may help to bend the leads to match the width of the socket. This makes it easier to fit the microcontroller smoothly into the socket. Test the Controller PCB Here is the controller test procedure: 1. Connect the IEC power cord to the PR102 and the AC mains (wall socket). 2. -
Page 43: Section 6: Assembling The Input Selector Board
Section 6: Assembling the Input Selector Board Carefully empty the contents of the envelope marked “PR-101 Input Selector” into a broad soup bowl. Note that the envelope may also say PR-102 Input Selector. This part of the design did not change between the PR-101 and the PR-102. Figure 30-Silkscreen side of the Input Selector Board shows component locations Install the Resistors Install the resistors using the same procedures outlined in the previous section. - Page 44 100K Brown, black, black, orange, brown 100K Brown, black, black, orange, brown 100K Brown, black, black, orange, brown 100K Brown, black, black, orange, brown 100K Brown, black, black, orange, brown 100K Brown, black, black, orange, brown 100K Brown, black, black, orange, brown 100K Brown, black, black, orange, brown 100K...
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Page 45: Choosing Cd Attenuation
4K02 Yellow, black, red, brown, brown 4K02 Yellow, black, red, brown, brown 4K02 Yellow, black, red, brown, brown Choosing CD Attenuation CD players have an output level that is 12 dB or more above that of conventional sources like tuners and tape decks. For that reason, we believe you may find it beneficial to add 12 dB of attenuation in the CD input path. -
Page 46: Install The Small Capacitors
Install the Small Capacitors Now we’ll install the following small capacitors. If you have a lead-bending jig, use the 0.4” spacing: Designation Value Description Done 100p COG, marked 101K 100p 100p 100p 100p 100p Install the Diodes If you’re using a lead-bending jig: ... -
Page 47: Install The Integrated Circuit Sockets
Designation Value Description Done 0.1 µF 100 volt ceramic capacitor, marked 104 0.1 µF 100 volt ceramic capacitor, marked 104 0.1 µF 100 volt ceramic capacitor, marked 104 0.1 µF 100 volt ceramic capacitor, marked 104 0.1 µF 100 volt ceramic capacitor, marked 104 0.1 µF 100 volt ceramic capacitor, marked 104 0.1 µF... -
Page 48: Install The Relays
Figure 32-Correct orientation for P1 on the selector board Designation Value Description Done 16 pin 8 x 2 Install the Relays There are 16 identical relays, numbered K1-K16. Install them all. Here’s an installation hint. As you put each relay in, bend down two diagonal corner pins to hold the relay in place. -
Page 49: Install The Tall Film Capacitors
3. Place and hold a piece of cardboard over the PCB, then flip the cardboard and PCB in one smooth motion. 4. The transistors will fall down, but their height above the board is nicely set by the heights of components already installed on the board. 5. -
Page 50: Install The Input Jack Shield
Tip to seat the connector: 1. Line up the back row of pins first. 2. Push on one side of the connector to get that side seated. 3. Push on the other side of the connector toget the other side seated. Make sure the connectors are seated flat on the board before you solder them in place. -
Page 51: Install Input Selector Signal Wiring
1. TB5 and TB6 are inputs that can be used if you buy the phono preamp option card. 2. TB7 and TB8 will be wired to the front panel input connector at a later step 3. TB9 and TB10 will be wired to the input of the tone/volume board in a later step. 4. - Page 52 Prepare 2 7” lengths of the slender gray jacketed cable according to the follow picture. Note that the drain wire and the red wire remain (cut the black wire from both sides). Make sure in each case to reserve the 1” piece of gray jacket that you’ve removed, as we’ll use this to insulate the drain wires to prevent shorts.
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Page 53: Install Input Selector Power Wiring
Select one of the 7” pieces with a remaining black wire (and no red wire). Solder it into TB11’s LT terminal. Insert it from the component side and solder it on the solder side. Cover the accompanying drain wire with ½” of the outside gray jacket material. -
Page 54: Mount The Input Selector Pcb
fit more easily into the socket. Do it a little bit at a time, as it’s kind of annoying to have to bend them back. Before you install them, double check the orientation of the IC’s. Figure 35-Insert opamp so semi-circular indentation in IC package matches silk-screen feature Designation Value Description... -
Page 55: Install 16 Pin Ribbon Cable
ICs in the input selector board. Do not go farther until the voltages are correct. If you reach a road-block, send email to dan@akitika.com for troubleshooting advice. Install 16 pin ribbon cable... -
Page 56: Note About H1 And H2
Note about H1 and H2 Holes on the board for H1 and H2 do not receive components. They are placed for future expansion, and are not used at this time. Take a Break You’ve earned it. You’ve just completed a big job. Congratulations. Take a break. I mean it! You’ll feel better. - Page 57 3. Insert the resistors into their correct places. If you’ve used a lead bending jig, you may find that you need to do very little additional bending to retain the resistors in their place. 4. Flip the board over onto a flat desktop. If the stuffed PCB is flat, then all the resistors will likely be close to the board, as they should be.
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Page 58: Install The Motor Driver Ic
Install the Motor Driver IC Install IC6. The IC’s pin rows typically start out a bit wider than the matching holes in the PCB. You can push a row of the IC pins against the table, first on one row, and then on the other. -
Page 59: Install C13 And C14
Install C13 and C14. Designation Value, description Done() 100 pF, COG dielectric, marked 101K 100 pF, COG dielectric, marked 101K C13 and C14 are axial capacitors. Mount them as shown in Figure 39 Install the sockets for IC1 through IC3 Install the remaining 3 8-pin DIP sockets in the IC1, IC2, and IC3 positions now. -
Page 60: Install The 14-Pin Cable Connector
3. Solder the rest of the relay pins. Designation Description Done() DPDT Relay with 5-volt coil DPDT Relay with 5-volt coil DPDT Relay with 5-volt coil Install the 14-pin cable connector. Make sure to insert the connector with the correct orientation as shown in Figure 40 Figure 40-Carefully note the connector orientation Install the remaining non-polar capacitors... -
Page 61: Install The Polarized Electrolytic Bypass Capacitor
0 Ohm jumper Bridge the component holes with a resistor lead or wire 0 Ohm jumper Bridge the component holes with a resistor lead or wire Install the polarized electrolytic bypass capacitor Make sure that the polarity of C17 matches the polarity of the silk-screen on the PCB. Make sure the negative indication of the capacitor is away from the positive indication of the PCB. -
Page 62: Figure 43-Motor Pot Wiring Detail
Designation Length D Done POT1 Long Wire ¾”” Solder one end in the upper motor terminal. POT1 Short Wire ½” Solder one end in the lower motor terminal. Figure 43-Motor POT wiring detail Make sure that the motor wires don’t touch the metal back-plate of the motor-pot. VR1, the volume control is made by Alps. -
Page 63: Final Inspection
Final Inspection Perform a final inspection of the assembled PC board: 1. Scan the back of the board to make sure that all the components are soldered. 2. Scan the front of the PCB to make sure that all the components have been installed. -
Page 64: Figure 45-Tone Volume Board Viewed From Directly Above
Figure 45-Tone volume board viewed from directly above Page 64 of 80... -
Page 65: Section 8: Preliminary Final Assembly
Section 8: Preliminary Final Assembly Wire and install the front panel input connector Identify the shielded cable that originates at TB7 and TB8 of the input selector PCB. Solder the free end to one of the 1/8” phono jacks, connecting the wires as shown in Figure 46. -
Page 66: Connect Power To The Tone Volume Pcb
Connect Power to the Tone Volume PCB Identify the thicker gray cable and green ground wire coming from TB4 on the power supply board. Connecting +/-12V power and AGND to the Tone Volume Board Done? () Remove ¼” of insulation from the red wire. Tightly twist the red wire strands, then tin them. -
Page 67: Install The Tone Volume Pcb
4. Remove the IEC power cord. Warning: do not go any further until this test is passed. If you’re having trouble, please send email to dan@akitika.com for troubleshooting advice. Test the Tone Volume PCB Step 2 Figure 48-Showing 14 pin Ribbon Cable Installation and Orientation This picture shows a previous version of the tone volume board. -
Page 68: Section 9: Final Mechanical Assembly
1. Locate the 14-pin ribbon cable. 2. Refer to Figure 48 for the cable orientation. Note that the red stripe on the cable faces up when connecting to the controller. 3. Touch the chassis first. You may get a static electricity shock, but better you than the controller (it has protection, but let’s avoid exercising it). -
Page 69: Section 10: About The Preamp Architecture
2. Install the 6 plastite screws through the back panel of the PR-102 into the bodies of the RCA jacks. Some pressure is required as these screws cut their own threads into the plastic of the RCA jack body. 3. Spin the thumb-nut onto the ground screw on the back panel (near the option slots). -
Page 70: Gain Customization
o Two as yet undefined future functions, F1 and F2 o Hush (about 14 dB cut) and MONO options Options for balanced outputs (not yet available) Volume control has precise tracking over the widest possible range. Front panel 1/8” input for Ipod ... -
Page 71: Appendix 1 - Shielded Cable Preparation
Appendix 1 – Shielded Cable Preparation This section tells how to prepare the end of a shielded cable. 1. Cut the shielded cable to the overall required length. 2. Use a utility knife with a new, sharp blade to cut the plastic jacket of the shielded cable 1”... - Page 72 5. Separate and twist the drain wire. 6. Peel back and remove the foil. Remove the plastic wrap from the red and black wires. The drain (bare wire), red, and black wires are exposed now that gray insulating jacket, foil shield, and plastic over-wrap have been removed. 7.
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Page 73: Block Diagram
Block Diagram The input selector selects amongst six inputs. The signal selected on the input selector is buffered and output to tape1 and tape2 for recording. The signal delivered can be either the one specified on the input selector, or the output from tape1 or from tape 2. The two channels, left and right, can be blended if desired, using the MONO switch. -
Page 74: Schematics
Schematics Figure 51-Tone Volume schematic Page 74 of 80... -
Page 75: Figure 52-Controller Schematic
Figure 52-Controller Schematic page 1 Page 75 of 80... -
Page 76: Figure 53-Controller Schematic
Figure 53-Controller Schematic Page 2 Page 76 of 80... -
Page 77: Figure 54-Input Selector
Figure 54-Input selector page 1 Page 77 of 80... -
Page 78: Figure 55-Input Selector
Figure 55-Input selector page 2 Page 78 of 80... - Page 79 Figure 56-input selector page 3 Page 79 of 80...
- Page 80 Figure 57-power supply schematic Page 80 of 80...
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