These Components Are Not Loaded ................14 Power Supply Inspection ....................14 Section 4: Chassis Assembly and Power Wiring .............. 15 Protect your PR-102 ...................... 15 Install the feet ........................ 15 Install the IR Detector Window ..................15 Install Back Panel Power Connectors and Front Panel Power Switch ......17 Power Wiring ........................
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Install the Resistor Networks ..................31 Install the Ferrite Beads ....................32 Install the Control Cable Connectors and Controller Socket ........33 Components to be installed later ................... 34 Locations that remain unpopulated ................34 You’ve Finished this Side of the Controller PCB for Now ........34 Install the Push Buttons ....................
Install the Diodes and the Low-Profile Capacitors ............57 Install C1 and C2...................... 57 Install the sockets for IC1 through IC5................. 57 Install the Bypass Caps ....................58 Install the Relays ......................58 Install the 14-pin cable connector................. 59 Install the remaining non-polar capacitors ..............
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Figure 13-Insert cable ties, then lay twisted pair into the chassis corner ......19 Figure 14-Form switch wires to avoid the ground stud ............ 21 Figure 15-Adding Lug to Ground Harness ............... 22 Figure 16-AC Power and Ground Wiring ................. 22 Figure 17-Transformer and power supply assembly ready for installation ......
Section 1: About This Manual This manual gives the information needed to build and use Akitika LLC’s PR-102 Stereo Preamplifier. It’s very similar to its predecessor, the PR-101, but it has the following new features: The F3 button is now named MONO. When the LED is ON, both left and right channel inputs are combined into a monophonic signal.
A lead-bending jig can make for quicker, neater assembly. It’s certainly not necessary. Is something in this manual confusing? Does something look wrong? Send your questions by email to dan@akitika.com. You’ll help yourself and everyone who builds the kit. Page 8 of 78...
“PR-101 Power Supply” into a broad soup bowl, as shown below. The envelope might also be marked “PR-102 power supply”. FYI, the power supply did not change between the PR-101 and PR-102. In general, you’ll start with the components that lay closest to the board, working your way...
You’ll notice that the component designations in the directions don’t go exactly in order. We have grouped them so that all components with the same value appear together. This makes assembly easier. You’ll find in the parts kit that similar parts, e.g. 3 1K resistors, are typically (though not always) taped together.
0.1 µF 100 V Ceramic, 104 0.1 µF 100 V Ceramic, 104 0.1 µF 100 V Ceramic, 104 0.1 µF 100 V Ceramic, 104 0.01 µF 400 V Mylar, 10n (stands for 10 nano-Farads) 0.01 µF 400 V Mylar, 10n (stands for 10 nano-Farads) 0.033 µF 300 V AC, box shaped cap Install the Not so Tall Polarized Capacitors...
Figure 4-Assembling Heatsink to a Regulator Install the Regulators and Heat Sinks For each of the three regulators (U1, U2, and U3), the installation process is the same, with the result as shown in Figure 4. Note: U2 uses the tall heat sink! ...
Figure 7-Install AGND to BGND jumper Install the voltage select jumpers The PR-102 may be wired for either 120-Volt or 240-Volt operation. This is done by adding jumpers to the power supply board in the marked places. Jumper locations are shown in Figure 8.
Figure 8-Jumper installation for 120 Volt Operation (left side) and 240 Volt (right side) Figure 9-Power Supply before transformer is installed, wired for 120 Volts These Components Are Not Loaded Three-pin headers TB1-TB6 and two-pin headers TB7-TB10 are not loaded in the standard kit assembly.
Protect your PR-102 Spread a towel over your work surface before you begin the steps outlined in this section. That towel will prevent you from scratching the finish of your PR-102 during these assembly steps. Install the feet Install the four feet into the corners of the bottom of the chassis using 6-32 x 3/8”...
the back edge). Make sure to save the screws someplace safe, like your soup bowl. 2. The next steps describe installation of the IR window into the chassis. It installs from the inside, into the indicated rectangular hole: 3. Locate the black plastic window. Peel the release paper from both sides of the window if it is present.
7. When you look at the front of the chassis, the tape should not be visible. 8. Remove the “3M” paper backing from the double-sided tape. 9. Press the black plastic window against the newly exposed sticky side of the tape, being careful to center the window on the tape.
you get the orientation of the IEC power connector correct…it’s pretty well impossible to remove once installed! Figure 12-Installing power outlets and IEC connector...watch orientation! Installing the power switch…watch orientation! Push the front panel power switch into the front panel from the outside. Make sure you have the orientation correct with the O on the switch toward the chassis bottom before you push it in.
3. For now, leave the remaining long end with the FASTON connector loose. Locate the white unswitched power harness. It has white wire with 3 FASTONs. 4. Connect the blue 0.25” wide FASTON to the IEC power contact farthest from the chassis wall.
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9. Connect Black wire of the twisted pair to the bottom row switch contact closest to the chassis wall. 10. Connect White wire of the twisted pair to the remaining bottom row switch contact. Locate the black switched power harness. It has black wire with 2 FASTONs. 1.
9. Connect the Black wire of the twisted pair to the top row switch contact closest to the chassis wall. 10. Connect the white wire of the twisted pair to the remaining top row switch contact. 11. Make sure that the wires are formed to avoid the nearby ground stud. Figure 14-Form switch wires to avoid the ground stud 12.
Figure 15-Adding Lug to Ground Harness Connecting the Chassis Ground Locate the #6 toothed lug. It’s packed in the “Screw Nut Lug” envelope. Locate the green ground harness. It has green wire with 3 FASTONs. 1. Cut the long green wire to 8” length as shown in Figure 15. 2.
Connect the Toroidal Transformer to the power supply Locate the following items associated with the toroidal transformer: 1. Toroidal Transformer 2. rubber mounting pads (qty 2) 3. #8-32 nut and split ring lock-washer For now, we’ll work only with the toroidal transformer itself. Save the mounting pads, lock-washer and nut for the later step when the power supply is mounted to the chassis for testing.
d. Insert the brown wire into the power supply PCB hole labeled brown, and solder the wire on the solder side. Clip the extra on the solder side. e. Insert the blue wire into the power supply PCB hole labeled blue, and solder the wire on the solder side.
12V ground wire installation Done? () Twist and tin the bare end of the 10” ground wire. Insert the tinned 10” ground wire from the bottom of the power supply board into the center TB4 hole, marked AGD and solder it on the top side. Twist and tin the bare end of the 8”...
Insert the tinned 8” black wire from the bottom of the power supply board into the TB3 hole marked N12 and solder it on the top side. 5 Volt Power and Ground wires Locate the red/black 18 AWG bonded-paired wire (zip cord). Prepare a 14” length per the following diagram: 5V power and ground wire installation Done? ()
6. Wiggle the transformer to make sure it is centered on the dished washer. Rotate the transformer so the wires point towards the back of the chassis, as this makes the wires to the power supply PCB lay most naturally. 7.
Remove the power cord from the wall and from the IEC power connector. Warning: do not go any further until the power supply has passed its test. If you’re having trouble, please send email to dan@akitika.com for troubleshooting advice. Page 28 of 78...
Section 5: Assembling the Controller Carefully empty the contents of the envelope marked “PR-102 Controller” into a broad soup bowl. Locate the controller PCB, and read the next box very carefully! The controller board is a bit unusual in that components will be installed on both sides of the PCB.
Install the IC’s and Transistor Make sure to orient the IC’s correctly when you install them. After you install each IC, bend over two diagonally opposed leads to retain the IC. Then double check to make sure that: You have the correct IC in the correct location. ...
8 10K Install RN2 in the indicated place. Make sure that resistors pin 1 of RN2, marked by the dot, goes into the square pad in the RN2 hole pattern on the PCB. Solder the two end pins first to make sure that RN2 is sitting level on the board.
Install the Control Cable Connectors and Controller Socket Insert the 14-pin cable connector, P6. Make sure to install the 14-pin connector in the orientation shown in Figure 22. Figure 22-14 and 16 pin cable connector installation Solder two corner pins, and make sure that you’ve got it right one more time before you solder the remainder of the pins.
1. tack-solder two corner pins 2. Make sure that socket lies flush. 3. If the socket isn’t flush, then melt one or the other of the tack soldered corner pins to get the socket flush to the board. 4. Finish soldering the balance of the 20 pin socket pins. Components to be installed later C7, C8, and C13 will be installed in a later step (along with C2), after you’ve installed all the components on the other side of the controlled PCB.
You’ll note an unusual order to the buttons below. If you follow that order, then you install the outside corner buttons first. That makes it easy to correctly install the rest of the buttons. Here’s a good way to install the push buttons. Set SW1, SW11, SW2, and SW7 in the marked silk screen areas.
Insert the IR detector on the same side as the switches, and solder the three leads on the other side of the controller PCB. You can set the height perfectly by temporarily placing C2 underneath the IR detector. The spacing isn’t critical, but if you set it too high off the board, it will bump into the IR window in the front panel.
Figure 27-Observe D8 installed and orientation of the lead frame of the LED Figure 27 gives you one more check to get the LED installation correct. 1 out of 100 people have done this wrong! Don’t be part of that 1%! Designation Description Done ...
Install the Last Four Capacitors These capacitors are installed on the side of the board where you began assembly. We’ve left them off the board until now to make it easier to solder the LEDs in place and to prevent strain on the capacitors. 2200 pF Film 63 volt, 2n2K63 Be careful of C7, C8, and C13’s polarity when you install them.
the LEDs. The switches will guard the LEDs from most casual bumps as you continue the next section’s assembly. Install the Controller Power Wire Identify the free end of the red/black zip cord that comes from TB9 of the power supply board.
. Aim the remote control at the IR window. Press the input selector keys. The front panel LED’s corresponding to the input selector keys should illuminate. Remove the IEC power cable from the AC mains and from the PR-102’s IEC connector. Take a Break You’ve reached a significant milestone.
Carefully empty the contents of the envelope marked “PR-101 Input Selector” into a broad soup bowl. Note that the envelope may also say PR-102 Input Selector. This part of the design did not change between the PR-101 and the PR-102.
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100K Brown, black, black, orange, brown 100K Brown, black, black, orange, brown 100K Brown, black, black, orange, brown 100K Brown, black, black, orange, brown 100K Brown, black, black, orange, brown 100K Brown, black, black, orange, brown 100K Brown, black, black, orange, brown 100K Brown, black, black, orange, brown 100K...
4K02 Yellow, black, red, brown, brown 4K02 Yellow, black, red, brown, brown 4K02 Yellow, black, red, brown, brown Choosing CD Attenuation CD players have an output level that is 12 dB or more above that of conventional sources like tuners and tape decks. For that reason, we believe you may find it beneficial to add 12 dB of attenuation in the CD input path.
Install the Small Capacitors Now we’ll install the following small capacitors. If you have a lead-bending jig, use the 0.4” spacing: Designation Value Description Done 100p COG, marked 101K 100p 100p 100p 100p 100p Install the Diodes If you’re using a lead-bending jig: ...
Figure 31-Correct orientation for P1 on the selector board Designation Value Description Done 16 pin 8 x 2 Install the Relays There are 16 identical relays, numbered K1-K16. Install them all. Here’s an installation hint. As you put each relay in, bend down two diagonal corner pins to hold the relay in place.
3. Place and hold a piece of cardboard over the PCB, then flip the cardboard and PCB in one smooth motion. 4. The transistors will fall down, but their height above the board is nicely set by the heights of components already installed on the board. 5.
Tip to seat the connector: 1. Line up the back row of pins first. 2. Push on one side of the connector to get that side seated. 3. Push on the other side of the connector toget the other side seated. Make sure the connectors are seated flat on the board before you solder them in place.
1. TB5 and TB6 are inputs that can be used if you buy the phono preamp option card. 2. TB7 and TB8 will be wired to the front panel input connector at a later step 3. TB9 and TB10 will be wired to the input of the tone/volume board in a later step. 4.
Install Input Selector Signal Wiring If you’re not experienced with the preparation of shielded cable, please read Appendix 1 before you go on. Locate the more slender gray-jacketed cable . It is shielded cable. Beneath the gray jacket you’ll find: ...
Cut ½” pieces of the outside gray jacket. You’ll insulate each drain wire with these ½” pieces. Select one of the 7” pieces with a remaining red wire (and no black wire). Solder it into TB12’s RT terminal. Insert it from the component side and solder it on the solder side.
Insert the tinned green wire into the GND hole of the input selector’s TB13. Insert the wire into the solder side of the PCB, and solder it on the component side. Insert the tinned red wire into the POS12 hole of the input selector’s TB13. Insert the wire into the solder side of the PCB, and solder it on the component side.
Test the Input Selector PCB Power Drain Here is the input selector power drain test procedure: 1. Connect the IEC power cord to the PR-102 and the AC mains (wall socket). 2. Switch on the AC power. 3. Measure the DC voltage on the input selector TB13.
7. Disconnect the IEC power cord and switch off the AC power. If the relays activate as described above, proceed to the next section. If you reach a road- block, send email to dan@akitika.com for troubleshooting advice. Note about H1 and H2 Holes on the board for H1 and H2 do not receive components.
This section details the process of building the Tone-Volume-Balance circuit board. Carefully empty the contents of the envelope marked “PR-102 Tone Volume” into a broad soup bowl. A picture of the completed tone volume board may be found at the end of this section.
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You can identify the resistors by color code. I always like to cross-check the identification by using a Digital Ohm Meter. All of the resistors can be bent at 0.45” width for easy installation. Designation Value Color Code Done() 100k Brown, black, black, orange, brown 100k Brown, black, black, orange, brown...
Install the Motor Driver IC Install IC6. The IC’s pin rows typically start out a bit wider than the matching holes in the PCB. You can push a row of the IC pins against the table, first on one row, and then on the other.
Install the 14-pin cable connector. Make sure to insert the connector with the correct orientation. Match the notches in the short side walls of the connector with the ears in the silk-screen along the pin 1/pin 13 row of pins. Figure 38-Carefully note the connector orientation Install the remaining non-polar capacitors Designation...
Install the bipolar transistors. Make sure to match the shape of the TO-92 case to the outline shown on the PCB silk- screen. There should be a space of about 3/8” between the top of the PCB and the bottom of the transistor bodies.
Repeat the process for POT2. Designation Length D Done POT2 Long Wire 3/4” Solder one end in the upper motor terminal. POT2 Short Wire ½” Solder one end in the lower motor terminal. Install and solder both motor POTS on the board. Guide the motor pot wires into the labeled holes: ...
Install the Op-amps into the sockets Install the 8-pin DIP ICs. Align the half-moon feature of the IC with the notch in the PCB silkscreen. If you need a reminder, see Figure 34. Double check the orientation before you install the op-amps. Designation Value Description...
Section 8: Preliminary Final Assembly Wire and install the front panel input connector Identify the shielded cable that originates at TB7 and TB8 of the input selector PCB. Solder the free end to one of the 1/8” phono jacks, connecting the wires as shown in Figure 43.
Connect Power to the Tone Volume PCB Identify the thicker gray cable and green ground wire coming from TB4 on the power supply board. Connecting +/-12V power and AGND to the Tone Volume Board Done? () Remove ¼” of insulation from the red wire. Tightly twist the red wire strands, then tin them.
4. Remove the IEC power cord. Warning: do not go any further until this test is passed. If you’re having trouble, please send email to dan@akitika.com for troubleshooting advice. Test the Tone Volume PCB Step 2 Figure 45-Showing 14 pin Ribbon Cable Installation and Orientation...
11. Point the remote control at the PR102. Press the balance left and right buttons. You should see the balance control move. Remove the IEC power cable from the AC mains and the IEC connector of the PR-102 Section 9: Final Mechanical Assembly In this section you’ll complete final assembly of the PR-102.
2. Install the 6 plastite screws through the back panel of the PR-102 into the bodies of the RCA jacks. Some pressure is required as these screws cut their own threads into the plastic of the RCA jack body. 3. Spin the thumb-nut onto the ground screw on the back panel (near the option slots).
o Two as yet undefined future functions, F1 o Hush (20 dB cut) and MONO options Options for balanced outputs Feedback volume controls for best signal to noise ratio over the complete range of settings. Front panel 1/8” input for Ipod ...
Appendix 1 – Shielded Cable Preparation This section tells how to prepare the end of a shielded cable. 1. Cut the shielded cable to the overall required length. 2. Use a utility knife with a new, sharp blade to cut the plastic jacket of the shielded cable 1”...
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5. Separate and twist the drain wire. 6. Peel back and remove the foil. Remove the plastic wrap from the red and black wires. The drain (bare wire), red, and black wires are exposed now that gray insulating jacket, foil shield, and plastic over-wrap have been removed. 7.
Block Diagram The input selector selects amongst six inputs. The signal selected on the input selector is buffered and output to tape1 and tape2 for recording. The signal delivered to the balance control input can be either the one specified on the input selector, or the output from tape1 or from tape 2. The output of the balance control is processed in tone controls.
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