AkitikA PR-101 Assembly Manual
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Summary of Contents for AkitikA PR-101
- Page 1 PR-101 STEREO PREAMPLIFIER ASSEMBLY MANUAL © 2015-2018 AkitikA LLC All rights reserved Revision 5p09 March 8, 2018 Page 1 of 68...
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Page 2: Table Of Contents
These Components Are Not Loaded ................14 Power Supply Inspection ....................15 Section 4: Chassis Assembly and Power Wiring .............. 15 Protect your PR-101 ...................... 15 Install the feet ........................ 15 Install the IR Detector Window ..................15 Install Back Panel Power Connectors and Front Panel Power Switch ......17 Power Wiring ........................ - Page 3 Install the Resistor Networks ..................31 Install the Ferrite Beads ....................32 Install the Control Cable Connectors and Controller Socket ........33 Components to be installed later ................... 34 Locations that remain unpopulated ................34 You’ve Finished this Side of the Controller PCB for Now ........34 Install the Push Buttons ....................
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Page 4: Table Of Figures
Install the Sockets, Integrated Circuits and Transistor ..........57 Install the Control Cable Connector ................58 Install the Motor Pots ....................58 Section 8: Preliminary Final Assembly ................60 Wire and install the front panel input connector ............60 Install the headphone jack ..................... 61 Connect Power to the Tone Volume PCB .............. - Page 5 Figure 24-showing socket orientation ................34 Figure 25-Switch and LED side of Controller Board ............35 Figure 26-Bending the IR Detector Leads and setting the mounting height ....36 Figure 27-LED with white spacer added ................37 Figure 28-Completed controller, push-button and LED side and component side... 38 Figure 29-Silkscreen side of the Input Selector Board shows component locations ..
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Page 6: Section 1: About This Manual
Section 1: About This Manual This manual gives the information needed to build and use Akitika LLC’s PR-101 Stereo Preamplifier. Who Should Attempt this Project? You can build this kit if you can: 1. Solder (using normal rosin core solder and a soldering iron). -
Page 7: Important Safety Notes
60/40 Rosin Core solder. Akitika LLC’s liability shall in no event exceed the cost paid to Akitika LLC for the kit. Page 7 of 68... -
Page 8: Section 2: About Building The Kit
A lead-bending jig can make for quicker, neater assembly. It’s certainly not necessary. Is something in this manual confusing? Does something look wrong? Send your questions by email to dan@akitika.com. You’ll help yourself and everyone who builds the kit. Page 8 of 68... -
Page 9: Section 3: Building The Power Supply Pcb
This section details the process of building the power supply circuit board. Begin by carefully emptying the contents of the envelope marked “PR-101 Power Supply” into a broad soup bowl, as shown below. In general, you’ll start with the components that lay closest to the board, working your way towards the taller components. -
Page 10: Install The Diodes
You’ll notice that the component designations in the directions don’t go exactly in order. We have grouped them so that all components with the same value appear together. This makes assembly easier. You’ll find in the parts kit that similar parts, e.g. 3 1K resistors, are typically (though not always) taped together. -
Page 11: Install The Not So Tall Polarized Capacitors
0.1 µF 100 V Ceramic, 104 0.1 µF 100 V Ceramic, 104 0.1 µF 100 V Ceramic, 104 0.1 µF 100 V Ceramic, 104 0.01 µF 400 V Mylar, 10n (stands for 10 nano-Farads) 0.01 µF 400 V Mylar, 10n (stands for 10 nano-Farads) 0.033 300 V AC, box shaped cap µF... -
Page 12: Install The Regulators And Heat Sinks
Figure 4-Assembling Heatsink to a Regulator Install the Regulators and Heat Sinks For each of the three regulators (U1, U2, and U3), the installation process is the same, with the result as shown in Figure 4. Note: U2 uses the tall heat sink! ... -
Page 13: Install The Agd-Bgd Jumper
Figure 7-Install AGND to BGND jumper Install the voltage select jumpers The PR-101 may be wired for either 120 Volt or 240 Volt operation. This is done by adding jumpers to the power supply board in the marked places. Jumper locations are shown in Figure 8. -
Page 14: These Components Are Not Loaded
Figure 8-Jumper installation for 120 Volt Operation (left side) and 240 Volt (right side) Figure 9-Power Supply before transformer is installed, wired for 120 Volts These Components Are Not Loaded Three-pin headers TB1-TB6 and two-pin headers TB7-TB10 are not loaded in the standard kit assembly. -
Page 15: Power Supply Inspection
Protect your PR-101 Spread a towel over your work surface before you begin the steps outlined in this section. That towel will prevent you from scratching the finish of your PR-101 during these assembly steps. Install the feet Install the four feet into the corners of the bottom of the chassis using 6-32 x 3/8”... -
Page 16: Figure 11-Ir Window With Release Paper, Die Cut Mounting Tape
1. Remove the chassis from the packing material. Use a small Phillips head screw driver to remove the 11 screws that hold the cover in place (8 on the top, 3 along the back edge). Make sure to save the screws someplace safe, like your soup bowl. -
Page 17: Install Back Panel Power Connectors And Front Panel Power Switch
7. When you look at the front of the chassis, the tape should not be visible. 8. Remove the “3M” paper backing from the double-sided tape. 9. Press the black plastic window against the newly exposed sticky side of the tape, being careful to center the window on the tape. -
Page 18: Power Wiring
you get the orientation of the IEC power connector correct…it’s pretty well impossible to remove once installed! Figure 12-Installing power outlets and IEC connector...watch orientation! Installing the power switch…watch orientation! Push the front panel power switch into the front panel from the outside. Make sure you have the orientation correct with the O on the switch toward the chassis bottom before you push it in. -
Page 19: Figure 13-Insert Cable Ties, Then Lay Twisted Pair Into The Chassis Corner
3. For now, leave the remaining long end with the FASTON connector loose. Locate the white unswitched power harness. It has white wire with 3 FASTONs. 4. Connect the blue 0.25” wide FASTON to the IEC power contact farthest from the chassis wall. - Page 20 9. Connect Black wire of the twisted pair to the bottom row switch contact closest to the chassis wall. 10. Connect White wire of the twisted pair to the remaining bottom row switch contact. Locate the black switched power harness. It has black wire with 2 FASTONs. 1.
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Page 21: Figure 14-Form Switch Wires To Avoid The Ground Stud
9. Connect the Black wire of the twisted pair to the top row switch contact closest to the chassis wall. 10. Connect the white wire of the twisted pair to the remaining top row switch contact. 11. Make sure that the wires are formed to avoid the nearby ground stud. Figure 14-Form switch wires to avoid the ground stud 12. -
Page 22: Connecting The Chassis Ground
Figure 15-Adding Lug to Ground Harness Connecting the Chassis Ground Locate the #6 toothed lug. It’s packed in the “Screw Nut Lug” envelope. Locate the green ground harness. It has green wire with 3 FASTONs. 1. Cut the long green wire to 8” length as shown in Figure 15. 2. -
Page 23: Connect The Toroidal Transformer To The Power Supply
Connect the Toroidal Transformer to the power supply Locate the following items associated with the toroidal transformer: 1. Toroidal Transformer 2. rubber mounting pads (qty 2) 3. #8-32 nut and split ring lock-washer For now, we’ll work only with the toroidal transformer itself. Save the moving pads, lock-washer and nut for the later step when the power supply is mounted to the chassis for testing. -
Page 24: Add Power Output Wires To The Power Supply
d. Insert the brown wire into the power supply PCB hole labeled brown, and solder the wire on the solder side. Clip the extra on the solder side. e. Insert the blue wire into the power supply PCB hole labeled blue, and solder the wire on the solder side. -
Page 25: 12 Volt Power Wires
12V ground wire installation Done? () Twist and tin the bare end of the 10” ground wire. Insert the tinned 10” ground wire from the bottom of the power supply board into the center TB4 hole, marked AGD and solder it on the top side. Twist and tin the bare end of the 8”... -
Page 26: Volt Power And Ground Wires
Insert the tinned 8” black wire from the bottom of the power supply board into the TB3 hole marked N12 and solder it on the top side. 5 Volt Power and Ground wires Locate the red/black 18 AWG bonded-paired wire (zip cord). Prepare a 14” length per the following diagram: 5V power and ground wire installation Done? () -
Page 27: Prepare To Test The Power Supply
6. Wiggle the transformer to make sure it is centered on the dished washer. Rotate the transformer so the wires point towards the back of the chassis, as this makes the wires to the power supply PCB lay most naturally. 7. -
Page 28: Test The Power Supply
Remove the power cord from the wall and from the IEC power connector. Warning: do not go any further until the power supply has passed its test. If you’re having trouble, please send email to dan@akitika.com for troubleshooting advice. Page 28 of 68... -
Page 29: Section 5: Assembling The Controller
Section 5: Assembling the Controller Carefully empty the contents of the envelope marked “PR-101 Controller” into a broad soup bowl. Locate the controller PCB, and read the next box very carefully! The controller board is a bit unusual in that components will be installed on both sides of the PCB. -
Page 30: Install The Non-Polarized Capacitors
Yellow, white, white, black, brown Yellow, white, white, black, brown Yellow, white, white, black, brown Yellow, white, white, black, brown Yellow, white, white, black, brown Yellow, white, white, black, brown Yellow, white, white, black, brown Yellow, white, white, black, brown Yellow, white, white, black, brown Yellow, white, white, black, brown Yellow, white, white, black, brown... -
Page 31: Install The Ic's And Transistor
Install the IC’s and Transistor Make sure to orient the IC’s correctly when you install them. After you install each IC, bend over two diagonally opposed leads to retain the IC. Then double check to make sure that: You have the correct IC in the correct location. ... -
Page 32: Install The Ferrite Beads
8 10K Install RN2 in the indicated place. Make sure that resistors pin 1 of RN2, marked by the dot, goes into the square pad in the RN2 hole pattern on the PCB. Solder the two end pins first to make sure that RN2 is sitting level on the board. -
Page 33: Install The Control Cable Connectors And Controller Socket
Install the Control Cable Connectors and Controller Socket Insert the 10 pin cable connector, P6. Make sure to match up the pin numbers on the silk screen with the pins on the connector as shown in Figure 22. Figure 22-10 pin cable connector pinout ... -
Page 34: Components To Be Installed Later
Figure 24-showing socket orientation It’s best to hold the socket in place by bending over two corner pins in a direction that won’t encourage shorts to adjacent traces. If that makes you uncomfortable, you can: 1. tack-solder two corner pins 2. -
Page 35: Figure 25-Switch And Led Side Of Controller Board
Figure 25-Switch and LED side of Controller Board Important! Install all the LEDs, D1-D15 with the same orientation! Note: All the LED’s install with the same orientation, Anode Left, Cathode Right You’ll note an unusual order to the buttons below. If you follow that order, then you install the outside corner buttons first. -
Page 36: Install The Infrared Detector
IR window in the front panel. The top surface of the IR detector should be about 0.3” off the PCB. Earlier versions of the PR-101 used P/N TSOP39238. That part came in a holder that was removed and discarded. -
Page 37: Install The Leds
Install the LEDs Figure 27-LED with white spacer added This section is a little tricky, so please follow the instructions carefully for best results. Getting the LED’s straight and true will allow you to insert the front panel PCB into the chassis (in a later step) with a minimal amount of swearing. -
Page 38: Install The Last Four Capacitors
Use the procedure outlined above to install D7-D10. 2mm x 5mm green 2mm x 5mm green 2mm x 5mm green 2mm x 5mm green Use the procedure outlined above to install D11-D15. 2mm x 5mm green 2mm x 5mm green 2mm x 5mm green 2mm x 5mm green 2mm x 5mm green... -
Page 39: Install The Controller Power Wire
Notice the pattern of push-buttons on the controller, and the pattern of holes in the front panel. Match the patterns, and insert the controller push-buttons through the holes in the front panel. Wiggle the controller a bit as you gently attempt to insert it into the front panel. -
Page 40: Install The Microcontroller
. Aim the remote control at the IR window. Press the input selector keys. The front panel LED’s corresponding to the input selector keys should illuminate. Remove the IEC power cable from the AC mains and from the PR-101’s IEC connector. Take a Break You’ve reached a significant milestone. -
Page 41: Section 6: Assembling The Input Selector Board
Section 6: Assembling the Input Selector Board Carefully empty the contents of the envelope marked “PR-101 Input Selector” into a broad soup bowl. Figure 29-Silkscreen side of the Input Selector Board shows component locations Install the Resistors Install the resistors using the same procedures outlined in the previous section. If you’re using a lead bending jig, all the resistors should be bent at a width of 0.45”. - Page 42 100K Brown, black, black, orange, brown 100K Brown, black, black, orange, brown 100K Brown, black, black, orange, brown 100K Brown, black, black, orange, brown 100K Brown, black, black, orange, brown 100K Brown, black, black, orange, brown 100K Brown, black, black, orange, brown 100K Brown, black, black, orange, brown 100K...
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Page 43: Install The Small Capacitors
4K02 Yellow, black, red, brown, brown 4K02 Yellow, black, red, brown, brown 4K02 Yellow, black, red, brown, brown 4K02 Yellow, black, red, brown, brown NL means not loaded NL means not loaded Install the Small Capacitors Now we’ll install the following small capacitors. If you have a lead-bending jig, use the 0.4”... -
Page 44: Install The Bypass Capacitors
1N4148 75 V switching diode 1N4148 75 V switching diode Install the Bypass Capacitors The bypass capacitors are pre-formed to the correct span. Drop each one in, and bend the leads to around a 45 degree angle to hold the capacitors. Solder, then clip the leads in the normal fashion. -
Page 45: Install The Control Cable Connector
Install the Control Cable Connector Look at this drawing CAREFULLY to be sure that you’re putting P1 in correctly! Match the indicated features that shown pin 1, 2, 15, and 16 to the silk screen pin numbers marked on the PCB. Designation Value Description... -
Page 46: Install The Transistors
Install the Transistors Insert each transistor into the board , making sure that the shape of the transistor follows the silk-screen outline on the PCB. Here’s an easy way to do it. 1. Cut the transistors leads close to the tape. This leaves them as long as possible without having to deal with the adhesive from the tape. -
Page 47: Install J1 And J2
Install J1 and J2 Align each connector carefully with the holes in the board. Squeeze the connector onto the board. Keep your fingers outside of the hole pattern so you don’t jab yourself when the pins pop through the board. It will take a little squeezing and wiggling, but it fits very nicely and securely. -
Page 48: These Connectors Are Not Populated
These Connectors Are Not Populated The connectors listed here are not populated. In a later step, you will wire directly to the PC board. 1. TB5 and TB6 are inputs that can be used if you buy the phono preamp option card. -
Page 49: Install Input Selector Signal Wiring
Install Input Selector Signal Wiring If you’re not experienced with the preparation of shielded cable, please read Appendix 1 before you go on. Locate the more slender gray-jacketed cable . It is shielded cable. Beneath the gray jacket you’ll find: ... -
Page 50: Install Input Selector Power Wiring
Select one of the 7” pieces with a remaining red wire (and no black wire). Solder it into TB12’s RT terminal. Insert it from the component side and solder it on the solder side. Cover the accompanying drain wire with ½” of the outside gray jacket material. -
Page 51: Install The Op-Amp Integrated Circuits Into The Sockets
Insert the tinned green wire into the GND hole of the input selector’s TB13. Insert the wire into the solder side of the PCB, and solder it on the component side. Insert the tinned red wire into the POS12 hole of the input selector’s TB13. Insert the wire into the solder side of the PCB, and solder it on the component side. -
Page 52: Test The Input Selector Pcb Power Drain
ICs in the input selector board. Do not go farther until the voltages are correct. If you reach a road-block, send email to dan@akitika.com for troubleshooting advice. Install 16 pin ribbon cable... -
Page 53: Test Input Selector Control Interface
7. Disconnect the IEC power cord and switch off the AC power. If the relays activate as described above, proceed to the next section. If you reach a road- block, send email to dan@akitika.com for troubleshooting advice. Note about H1 and H2 Holes on the board for H1 and H2 do not receive components. -
Page 54: Section 7: Assembling The Tone-Volume-Balance Board
Section 7: Assembling the Tone-Volume-Balance Board This section details the process of building the Tone-Volume-Balance circuit board. Carefully empty the contents of the envelope marked “PR-101 Tone Volume” into a broad soup bowl. Figure 35-Silkscreen side of the Tone Volume Board shows component locations... -
Page 55: Install The Diodes And Low Profile Capacitors
Designation Value Color Code Done 24R9 Red, yellow, white, gold, brown 24R9 Red, yellow, white, gold, brown Brown, black, black, red, brown 100K Brown, black, black, orange, brown 100K Brown, black, black, orange, brown 100K Brown, black, black, orange, brown 100K Brown, black, black, orange, brown Red, black, black, brown, brown... -
Page 56: Install The Relay And The Manual Pots
1N4004 1 Amp 400 PIV diode 1N4004 1 Amp 400 PIV diode 1N4004 1 Amp 400 PIV diode 1N4004 1 Amp 400 PIV diode Now we’ll install the following small capacitors: Bend leads to 0.4” spacing if you have a lead-bending jig Designation Value Description... -
Page 57: Install The Tall Capacitors
Install the Tall Capacitors Designation Value Description Done 2.2 nF Film cap, 63 volt, marked 2n2K63 2.2 nF Film cap, 63 volt, marked 2n2K63 Film cap, 100 volt, marked 1J100 0.1 µF 0.1 µF Film cap, 100 volt, marked 1J100 1 µF Film cap, 63 volt, marked 1J63 1 µF... -
Page 58: Install The Control Cable Connector
Length D Done POT1 Long Wire 5/8” Solder one end in the upper motor terminal. POT1 Short Wire ½” Solder one end in the lower motor terminal. Was MPSA06 in earlier versions of the PR-101. Page 58 of 68... -
Page 59: Figure 39-Motor Pot Wiring Detail
Figure 39-Motor POT wiring detail Repeat the process for POT2. Designation Length D Done POT2 Long Wire 5/8” Solder one end in the upper motor terminal. POT2 Short Wire ½” Solder one end in the lower motor terminal. Install and solder both motor POTS on the board. Guide the motor pot wires into the labeled holes: ... -
Page 60: Section 8: Preliminary Final Assembly
Figure 40-Completed Tone/Volume Board Section 8: Preliminary Final Assembly Wire and install the front panel input connector Identify the shielded cable that originates at TB7 and TB8 of the input selector PCB. Solder the free end to one of the 1/8” phono jacks, connecting the wires as shown in Figure 41. -
Page 61: Install The Headphone Jack
Figure 42-Inserting 1/8" jacks in the front panel Install the headphone jack Install the second 1/8” phono jack into the hole marked with the headphone pictogram, fastening it per the detail in Figure 42. The headphone jack will have no wires at this time. -
Page 62: Install The Tone Volume Pcb
SELECTOR OUT, LT TB1, LEFT IN Black wire SELECTOR OUT, TB1, LEFT GND Drain wire with gray insulation SELECTOR OUT, RT TB2, RIGHT IN Red wire SELECTOR OUT, TB2, RIGHT GND Drain wire with gray insulation IN TO OUTPUT TB3, RIGHT OUT Red wire AMPS, RT IN TO OUTPUT... -
Page 63: Test The Tone Volume Pcb Step 1
9. Point the remote control at the PR101. Press the balance left and right buttons. You should see the balance control move. Remove the IEC power cable from the AC mains and the IEC connector of the PR-101 Page 63 of 68... -
Page 64: Section 9: Final Mechanical Assembly
Small knob for treble d. Large knob for volume 2. Install the 6 plastite screws through the back panel of the PR-101 into the bodies of the RCA jacks. Some pressure is required as these screws cut their own threads into the plastic of the RCA jack body. -
Page 65: Section 10: About The Preamp Architecture
Section 10: About the Preamp Architecture Features The PR-101 preamp has a very flexible design. It features: Selection amongst six inputs Support for two tape decks Buffers for the “to tape” outputs minimizes loading and distortion from connections to non-powered tape decks ... -
Page 66: Appendix 1 - Shielded Cable Preparation
Appendix 1 – Shielded Cable Preparation This section tells how to prepare the end of a shielded cable. 1. Cut the shielded cable to the overall required length. 2. Use a utility knife with a new, sharp blade to cut the plastic jacket of the shielded cable 1”... - Page 67 5. Separate and twist the drain wire. 6. Peel back and remove the foil. Remove the plastic wrap from the red and black wires. The drain (bare wire), red, and black wires are exposed now that gray insulating jacket, foil shield, and plastic over-wrap have been removed. 7.
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Page 68: Block Diagram
Block Diagram The input selector selects amongst six inputs. The signal selected on the input selector is buffered and output to tape1 and tape2 for recording. The signal delivered to the balance control input can be either the one specified on the input selector, or the output from tape1 or from tape 2.
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