Install the voltage select jumpers .................. 11 Power Supply Inspection ....................12 Section 4: Chassis Assembly and Power Wiring .............. 12 Protect your EE-101 ...................... 12 Install the feet ........................ 12 Install the Power Switch and Power Entrance Connector ..........13 Wire up the power ......................
Table of Figures Figure 1-Empty the power supply components into a soup bowl ........7 Figure 2-Component side of power supply PCB before loading ........7 Figure 3-Assembling Heatsink to a Regulator ..............9 Figure 4-Solder heat sink mounting rods to retain the heat sink ........10 Figure 5-Completed power supply with 120-volt jumpers installed ........
Section 1: About This Manual This manual gives the information needed to build all the variations of Akitika LLC’s EE-101 Stereo Preamplifier. It covers: EE-101, a complete stand-alone moving-magnet phono preamp based on the acclaimed PHONOZ phono-section, with an internal power supply, selectable cartridge loading, selectable gain, selectable high pass filter, and a volume control.
A lead-bending jig can make for quicker, neater assembly. It’s certainly not necessary. Is something in this manual confusing? Does something look wrong? Send your questions by email to dan@akitika.com. You’ll help yourself and everyone who builds the kit. Page 6 of 28...
This section details the process of building the power supply circuit board. Begin by carefully emptying the contents of the envelope marked “EE-101 Power Supply” into a broad soup bowl, as shown below. In general, you’ll start with the components that lay closest to the board, working your way towards the taller components.
Install the Diodes In general, you install axial leaded components (like the 1N4004 diodes) by placing the body on the silk screen side of the board, and the leads through the indicated holes. Bend the leads over on the back of the board to keep the component from falling out until you solder them in place.
Install the Not so Tall Polarized Capacitors It’s important to install these caps with the proper polarity. The negative end of the cap is marked with a minus sign. The silk screen on the board marks where the positive end of the cap goes.
Follow the silk screen outlines and install each heatsink/regulator assembly into its correct place on the board, as indicated in the table below. Double check that you have the correct regulator in the correct spot. The silver colored mounting rods on the bottom of the heat sink fit into pads on the PCB.
Install the voltage select jumpers The EE-101 may be wired for either 120 Volt or 240-volt operation. This is done by adding jumpers to the power supply board in the marked places. Use the supplied red 22 AWG wire. The jumper locations for 120 and 240 Volt operation are shown in the following figures.
We’ll take a detour from PCB assembly to do some of the chassis assembly. This will give you a safe way to power up and test the power supply. Protect your EE-101 Spread a towel over your work surface before you begin the steps outlined in this section.
Install the Power Switch and Power Entrance Connector Figure 9-Install power entrance connector and power switch Install the power entrance connector. Watch the orientation. The fuse drawer must be at the bottom of the chassis. Install the power switch. Make sure that the 0 on the switch is down, and the | on the switch is up.
Add the black wire with FAST-ONS on both ends between the power entrance connector and switch as shown in Figure 12. Figure 12-Install the black wire and bend the lug for the ground wire so it clears the black wire Install the Great Ground Kit Figure 13-Add the Great Ground kit to the back panel Locate the Great Ground Kit shipped as part of the EE101.
4. Spin the brass thumb-nut onto the great ground assembly, but only make it finger tight. Install the Pilot Light Insert the leads of the pilot light through the front panel. Thread the red and black wire through the supplied mounting nut. Tighten the nut finger-tight, then do your best to reach in there with needle-nose pliers to snug up the mounting nut.
i. Leave the brown and blue wires full length. If one wire is a bit longer than the other, shorten the longer wire. There should be about ¼” of uninsulated wire at the ends. Twist and tin each end separately. Twist the brown and blue wires together (but keep the bare ends separate).
b. Insert four 4-40x1/4” sems screws through holes at the ends of the PCB, through the standoffs in the box. This will keep the PCB safely located for the next test. Figure 16-Dress the transformer wires along the side 8. Connect the black FASTON to the top switch terminal. 9.
3. If the voltages are present, but funny…double check the regulators to assure that you haven’t swapped them. 4. If none of those items help, send an email to dan@akitika.com, with the name of this produce (EE101) and a description of the symptoms. Pictures of the front and back of the power supply PCB would also be helpful.
If you are building theEE101 (enclosure, power supply and phono preamp) then you will build the phono preamp using the directions for building the phono preamp which you will find on the Akitika web site. Please note the following differences: 1. Don’t install the mounting brackets supplied with the PHONOZ kit. You will instead use the 4-40x1/4”...
Figure 20-Installing RCA input jacks Figure 21-install the RCA input jacks with the wires you installed in the previous step If the insulating washers and RCA jacks are installed correctly, there will be no connection between the grounds of the RCA jacks and chassis at this step of the assembly.
Figure 22-Wiring the volume control Solder the short shielded cables to the PHONOZ PCB outputs. Insert the wires from the component side and solder them on the solder side: Solder the right channel drain wire to the PHONOZ TB2 GND. Remember to slip a 3/8”...
Figure 24-Installing the wall 1. The notched portion of the wall goes toward the front of the enclosure. 2. Pass the power supply wires (+12, -12, and ground) through the notch, routing them along the floor of the chassis. 3. Hold the wall in place by installing two 4-40x3/16” black oxide under-cut screws into the countersunk holes in the bottom of the chassis.
Solder the 4 jack wires into their respective holes on the PCB. Install the Output RCA Jacks Install the left channel (black) RCA output jack using the same hardware configuration as shown in Figure 20. If you followed the previous wiring recommendations, the ground lug has already been attached to the drain wire.
Install the cover using 10 of the provided 4-40x3/16” black-oxide undercut screws. Using the EE101 Phono Preamp Always turn the volume control down before powering up or down the EE101. This prevents start-up and/or shut-down transients from reaching your power amp and speakers.
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Appendix 1 – Shielded Cable Preparation This section tells how to prepare the end of a shielded cable. 1. Cut the shielded cable to the overall required length. 2. Use a utility knife with a new, sharp blade to cut the plastic jacket of the shielded cable 3/4”...
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4. If you’ve scored the jacket carefully, you can separate the jacket at the score line without using tools. Pull the insulating jacket off, exposing the cable, showing the foil shield, the drain wire, and the fuzzy string. The result is shown here, with the foil shield showing.
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7. Peel back and remove the foil. Remove the plastic wrap from the red and black wires. The drain (bare wire), red, and black wires are exposed now that gray insulating jacket, foil shield, and plastic over-wrap have been removed. 8.
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