Section 5: Configure the Options ..................16 Cartridge Loading ......................16 High-Pass Filter Setting ....................17 Gain Setting ........................18 Section 5 – Installing the Phono Preamp into the PR-101 ..........19 Mechanical Installation ....................19 Power Connections ....................... 19 Signal Connections ....................... 20 Section 6: Tests and Final Assembly ................
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Figure 3-Locating pin 1 of the IC and pin 1 of the PCB........... 10 Figure 4-Prepare 12" length of Red/Black Zip cord (drawing not to scale) ..... 12 Figure 5-Close-up showing installation of power, ground and signal wires ....13 Figure 6-Hardware detail for installing the RCA Jacks and insulating washers into the faceplate ..........................
2. lead bending jig to form axial component leads to the correct span for insertion in the PCB. Project Overview The project consists of the following steps: 1. Building the phono preamp circuit board. 2. Configuring the loading, gain, and highpass options. 3. Installing the phono preamp into a PR-101 preamplifier. Page 4 of 25...
A lead-bending jig can make for quicker, neater assembly. It’s certainly not necessary. Is something in this manual confusing? Does something look wrong? Send your questions by email to dan@akitika.com. You’ll help yourself and everyone who builds the kit. Page 6 of 25...
Section 3: Building the Phono Preamp This section details the process of building the phono preamp circuit board. Begin by carefully emptying the contents of the parts envelope into a broad soup bowl, as shown below. In general, you’ll start with the components that lay closest to the board, working your way towards the taller components.
Install the Resistors In general, you install axial leaded components (like the resistors) by placing the body on the silk screen side of the board, and the leads through the indicated holes. Bend the leads over on the back of the board to keep the resistors from falling out until your solder them in place.
Selector Pin Fields Designation Description Done? () 3x2 pin field for left channel cartridge loading. Insert the short side into the PCB. 3x2 pin field for right channel cartridge loading. Insert the short side into the PCB. 2x2 pin field. Insert the short side into the PCB. 2x2 pin field.
Power Wiring Task Done? () Insert Red wire of Red/black pair into component side of PCB hole marked POS12V in TB1. Solder on the solder side. Insert black wire of Red/black pair into component side of PCB hole marked NEG12V in TB1. Solder on the solder side. Insert green wire into component side of PCB hole marked GND in TB1.
Signal Wiring (Left Channel Connections) Task Done? () Cut a 6” length of shielded cable that will be used for the left channel connections. Prepare the ends as shown in Appendix 1. Reserve the outer jacket removed when you exposed the ends. Cut the red wire at both ends of the shielded cable.
Figure 7-Install both jacks, noting orientation of ground lugs, color stripes, and solder terminal Install Mounting Brackets Install the two mounting brackets using 6-32x1/4” sem screws as shown in Figure 8. Figure 8-Install the mounting brackets Page 15 of 25...
Section 5: Configure the Options Cartridge Loading Capacitive loading of the cartridge changes its frequency response. Typical RCA phono cables have a capacitance of about 17 pF/foot. You can add to this capacitance by selecting jumpers on P2 and P3. As an example, the Shure M97E is said to have improved sound with 200 pF of loading.
High-Pass Filter Setting A turntable can generate extreme low frequency signals that really aren’t part of the music. Depending on your turntable, amp, and speakers, it may be beneficial to reduce some of this extreme low frequency information. The following table shows the jumper settings and the various low frequency responses that they produce.
Gain Setting This phono preamp was made to use with moving magnet cartridges. Moving magnet cartridges provide around 5 mV at 5 cm/sec at 1 kHz, and are meant to be loaded by 47 K Ohms. Figure 11-P6 sends left channel gain, P5 sets right channel gain It’s hard to say what gain setting will be best for your system in advance.
Connecting +/-12V power to the phono preamp can be done without removing the power supply board from the PR-101. In a previous step, you tinned the power wires. This makes it easy to solder them into the power supply PCB. Insert the wires from the component side, leaving about 1/8”...
Please note the following 1. Use the recommended order, installing green wire first to minimize damage to adjacent power wires as you solder them in place. 2. Remove the end of the control cable where it connects to the tone volume board and fold it out of the way to avoid damaging it with your soldering iron.
Section 6: Tests and Final Assembly Check the plus and minus 12 volt supplies to assure that they are still within tolerance. This is a quick sanity check for (mostly) correct assembly of the phono preamp. Remove power. Replace the cover and re-install the eleven screws that retain the cover. Connect power again and make sure the PR101 goes through its familiar power-up sequence.
Knurled Nut Contact to the Ground wire Depending upon the thickness of the spade lug or wires on your turntable’s ground wire, it may not make a good connection to the stud using just the knurled nut. In that case, first install a 6-32 nut (supplied in the auxiliary grounding kit) onto the grounding stud, tighten it, and leave it in place.
Section 8: About the Phono Preamp Specifications Output impedance - 1000 Ohms Distortion – all harmonics more than 100 dB down for inputs of less than 150 mV rms at 1 kHz, with gain set to 3 dB all harmonics around 120 dB down for 10 mV input at 1 kHz, with gain set to 3 dB Gain at 1 kHz (30, 33, 36, 39, or 42 dB, jumper selectable)
Appendix 1 – Shielded Cable Preparation This section tells how to prepare the end of a shielded cable. 1. Cut the shielded cable to the overall required length. 2. Use a utility knife with a new, sharp blade to cut the plastic jacket of the shielded cable 1”...
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5. Separate and twist the drain wire. 6. Peel back and remove the foil. Remove the plastic wrap from the red and black wires. The drain (bare wire), red, and black wires are exposed now that gray insulating jacket, foil shield, and plastic over-wrap have been removed. 7.
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