Royal Enfield METEOR MINOR STANDARD 1958 Workshop Maintenance Manual page 17

27. Removal of the Tappets and Guides
It is only necessary to remove the tappets and
guides if they have become worn.
Remove the cylinder heads and barrels
(Subsections 10 and 15).
Extract the tappet guides, using Special Tool
No. E.5790, having heated the case first.
The guides are made from nickel chrome
alloy iron and if a guide should break while
removing it, it can be withdrawn with a pair of
pliers if the crankcase is heated locally with a
blowlamp. Otherwise it is necessary to dismantle
the crankcase and drive the tappet and guide out
from underneath using a heavy bar in the cam
tunnel.
The guide should have an interference of
.0015 to .0025 in. in the crankcase and can be
driven in with a bronze drift, care being taken
when the guide is nearly home to avoid breaking
the collar.
When replacing the exhaust valve tappet
guides care must be taken to ensure that the
groove in the timing side exhaust guide comes
opposite the hole to the timing chest otherwise
flooding of the push rod hole in the cylinder will
occur causing over-oiling.
If a tappet guide is taken out it should be
replaced by an oversize one.
28. Dismantling the Breathers
If the breather is not operating efficiently, it
may cause pressure in the crankcase, instead of a
CRANKCASE BREATHER (later models)
Fig. 7
Section C13 Page 8
partial vacuum, giving rise to smoking or over-
oiling.
See that the rubber tube of early models is
clean and if it is damaged or distorted, fit a new
one.
Ensure that the two discs in the breather
housing of later models are not stuck; a paper
gasket between the housing backing plate and
the crankcase is preferable to jointing compound.
Where fitted, the breather which operates
through the end of the crankshaft, may be
inspected by removing the slotted plug from the
head of the rotor retaining bolt. (See Fig. 7.)
29. Removal of the Clutch
Remove the engine sprocket and clutch
sprocket together as described in Subsection 26.
To remove the clutch hub, hold the clutch
with Special Tool No. E.4871 and remove the
centre retaining nut and washer with a box
spanner.
The hub can then be withdrawn from the
shaft with Special Tool No. E.5414.
30. Removal of the Final Drive Sprocket
Remove the clutch
Subsection 29.
Remove the primary chain tensioner.
Remove the rear half of the primary
chaincase by taking out three socket screws.
Remove the grub screw locking the final
drive sprocket nut.
Hold the sprocket and remove the nut (Right-
Hand Thread). The sprocket can then be
withdrawn.
31. Removal of the Engine Bearing Housing
Oil Seal
Remove the engine sprocket, clutch and rear
half of the primary chaincase.
Early models have a felt washer located in a
steel housing at the back of the chaincase. Great
care must be taken not to nip the felt washer
behind the sprocket on reassembly, as this would
make the engine very stiff to turn over, and
would damage the washer and allow leakage
from the crankcase.
Later models are fitted with a neoprene oil
seal located by a shim and washer. This does not
entail the risk of nipping, which can be
experienced with the early type.
32. Oil Pipe Unions
The oil feed to the rocker gear is through
pipes from unions at the back of the crankcase
below the cylinder base to unions on the cylinder
heads. The unions are fitted with steel wire
thread inserts to prevent the threads in the
aluminium from stripping.
as described in