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Mercury Champ 600 Manual

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VERSION 040711

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Summary of Contents for Mercury Champ 600

  • Page 1 VERSION 040711...
  • Page 2 Copyright © 2007–2011 by Mercury Magnetics. All Rights Reserved. Mercury Magnetics, Mini-Choke, Mercury Upgrade Kit, and “The Heart & Soul of Your Amp” slogan are trademarks licenced to Mercury Magnetics. Axiom and ToneClone are registered trademarks licensed to Mercury Magnetics. Fender and Champion “600” are trademarks of FMIC (Fender Musical Instruments Corp.). Mercury Magnetics is not affiliated with FMIC Amplification. This project and its documentation is the result of technical investigations made by the engineering staff of Mercury Magnetics. The disclosure of the information herein may pertain to proprietary rights and the furnishing of these documents does not constitute an expresed or implied license to use such materials. Mercury Magnetics products are UL (Underwriters Laboratories Inc.) recognized components for the USA and Canada. OBJY2 component systems, electrical insulation, E120568. UL Recognition, class 130(b) – Class 200(n). OBJY8 component systems, electrical insulation, certified for Canada, class 130(b) – Class 200(n). Mercury Magnetics transformers and other products are in compliance with the European Union RoHS Directive 2020/95/EC with respect to the following substances: lead (Pb), mercury (Hg), cadmium (Cd, hexavalent chromium (CR (VI)), polybrominated biphenyls (PBB), and polybrominated diphenyl ethers (PBDE). Attention: Modifying your Fender Champion “600” amp voids the FMIC warranty! Fender Champion “600” • Mercury Upgrade Kit This project and its documentation is the result of technical investigations made by the engineering staff of Mercury Magnetics. The disclosure of the information herein may pertain to proprietary rights and the furnishing of these documents does not constitute an expresed or implied license to use such materials.
  • Page 3 Mercury Upgrade PCB location diagram .........
  • Page 4 POWER TRANSFORMER POWER TRANSFORMER POWER TUBE 12AX7 SPEAKER PREAMP TUBE OUTPUT The stock Champ “600” chassis reference photographs. Fender Champion “600” • Mercury Upgrade Kit This project and its documentation is the result of technical investigations made by the engineering staff of Mercury Magnetics. The disclosure of the information herein may pertain to proprietary rights and the furnishing of these documents does not constitute an expresed or implied license to use such materials.
  • Page 5 Mini-Choke C600-C Mercury Axiom output transformer C600-O power transformer C600-P Replacement speaker 4.7KW 1-watt resistor 1/2” & 1/4” 8-32 set (flame proof) for Mini-Choke 270rF 500 volt capacitor (silver mica, disk) Coil of buss wire 1/2” 8-32 set for OT 10mF 50-63 volt capacitor Coil of (electrolytic, axial) Fully-illustrated shielded CD-ROM buss wire 2X coils of shielded filament wire Mercury 1/2” 8-32 set for PT nameplate Fender ’Champion “600” • Mercury Upgrade Kit This project and its documentation is the result of technical investigations made by the engineering staff of Mercury Magnetics. The disclosure of the information herein may pertain to proprietary rights and the furnishing of these documents does not constitute an expresed or implied license to use such materials.
  • Page 6 Mercury choke C600-C 10µF 50–63V REMOVE Mercury power transformer C600-P = Modification Mercury Magnetics transformers = New or moved part = Removed part or connection = Buss wires as jumpers or new connections www.MercuryMagnetics.com www.Amp-Exchange.com 22µF 450V REMOVE RESISTOR R15...
  • Page 7 Mercury Upgrades On the next 3 pages are 3 schematics. They show the process of making the to the main circuit board of a Fender Champion “600” (version 1). This page shows the front of the board with the Upgrades applied without external connections.
  • Page 8 This page is similar to the previous schematic, but shows the external connections to the Main PCB. DRILL 1/16” HOLES FOR CHOKE LEADS TO OUTPUT TRANSFORMER TO CHOKE FILAMENT SUPPLY LEADS (TWISTED PAIR) TO POWER TRANSFORMER (GREEN AND BLACK SETS ARE TWISTED PAIRS) LEGEND: TO OUTPUT = New or moved part...
  • Page 9 Reveal Reveal trace here trace here (for soldering Choke lead) (for soldering Choke lead) Drill 1/16” hole here Cut trace Drill 1/16” hole here Jumper for Choke lead here for Choke lead here (from right side of R14 to indicated pin of tube socket) Jumper here...
  • Page 10 REVISED: 01-15-08 Copyright © 2007 by Mercury Magnetics. All Rights Reserved. Mercury Magnetics, FatStack, Mini-Choke & Mercury Vintage are trademarks of Mercury Magnetics. Axiom and ToneClone are registered trademarks of Mercury Magnetics. Fenderis a registered trademark of FMIC (Fender Music Instruments Corp.). Champion is a trademark of FMIC. Mercury Magnetics is not affiliated with FMIC.
  • Page 11 (Call for more information.) Copyright © 2007 by Mercury Magnetics. All Rights Reserved. Mercury Magnetics, FatStack, Mini-Choke & Mercury Vintage are trademarks of Mercury Magnetics. Axiom and ToneClone are registered trademarks of Mercury Magnetics.
  • Page 12 DATE: 09-19-07 REVISED: 01-15-08 Copyright © 2007 by Mercury Magnetics. All Rights Reserved. Mercury Magnetics,, FatStack, Mini-Choke & Mercury Vintage are trademarks of Mercury Magnetics. Axiom and ToneClone are registered trademarks of Mercury Magnetics. Fenderis a registered trademark of FMIC (Fender Music Instruments Corp.). Champion is a trademark of FMIC. Mercury Magnetics is not affiliated with FMIC.
  • Page 13 Copyright © 2007 by Mercury Magnetics. All Rights Reserved. Mercury Magnetics, FatStack, Mini-Choke & Mercury Vintage and the slogan “The Heart & Soul of Your Amp” are trademarks of Mercury Magnetics. Axiom and ToneClone are registered trademarks of Mercury Magnetics.
  • Page 14 Stock component removal reference photographs. Unsolder and remoe the following 14 components: 1. Resistor R14 8. Resistor R12 2. Resistor R23 9. Capacitor C8 3. Resistor R25 10. Resistor R22 4. Capacitor C3 11. Resistor R20 5. Resistor R19 12. Resistor R26 6. Resistor R18 13. Resistor R15 7. Resistor R7 14. Resistor R16...
  • Page 15 Trace cuts reference photographs. Make 3 trace cuts on the circuit board. The above photographs show you a method for doing this. A trace is a conduc- tive strip on the circuit board. It is a paper-thin layer of metal, like tinfoil. Cutting a trace is like clipping a wire. Use a box knife, Exact knife or a Dremel Tool with a cutting or grinding attachment to make the cuts. Fender ’Champion “600” • Mercury Upgrade Kit This project and its documentation is the result of technical investigations made by the engineering staff of Mercury Magnetics. The disclosure of the information herein may pertain to proprietary rights and the furnishing of these documents does not constitute an expresed or implied license to use such materials.
  • Page 16 The following sequence shows the locations of the various buss wires that you will be soldering onto the board. A buss wire is used to jump one location to another on a circuit board. Use the wire supplied with the kit. See the schematics at the front of the manual for the precise locations. Note that we have intentionally located buss wires on both sides of the board. Typically buss wires are eitehr soldered into an existing hole, or onto a terminal. Study these photos carefully before processing. The 4 locations of the buss wires on the top of the circuit board. Note that #2 (R18) is optional. The jumper gives the amp more gain. We recommend trying the amp with an and without this jumper in order to determine which tone you prefer. The 4 locations of the buss wires on the underside of the circuit board. See the following photographs of close-ups of location 2, 3 and 4. Note that the 1st location uses the shielded wire. Fender Champion “600” • Mercury Upgrade Kit This project and its documentation is the result of technical investigations made by the engineering staff of Mercury Magnetics. The disclosure of the information herein may pertain to proprietary rights and the furnishing of these documents does not constitute an expresed or implied license to use such materials.
  • Page 17 Measure, prep and solder these 4 components onto the circuit board as indicated in these illustrations. Positions X1, X2, C3 and R12. Note: X2 and C3 axial capacitors must be mounted with correct polarity! Positioning for C3 – note polarity. Positioning for R12. Positioning for X2 – cathode bypass. Note polarity. Re- member to solder all connections! Positioning for X1 – bridges pins 5 and 8 of the 6V6 socket. Fender ’Champion “600” • Mercury Upgrade Kit This project and its documentation is the result of technical investigations made by the engineering staff of Mercury Magnetics. The disclosure of the information herein may pertain to proprietary rights and the furnishing of these documents does not constitute an expresed or implied license to use such materials.
  • Page 18 Choke prep reference photographs. Using a 1/16” bit, drill 2 holes as indi- cated by these photos. You may need to reference the schematics to locate their exact positions. The holes are for the 2 leads from the choke. The holes should just clear the trace. Take a sharp knife and scrape away the insulation layer above the trace next to each hole. Then, tin the new contacts with a small amount of solder. 3. Scrape off the insulation over the traces, next to each of the holes you’ve just drilled. Scrape just enough to allow for good contact. 1. Drill the first 1/16” hole next to the trace. For the location, see the schematics. It is near the location of R11. 4. A close-up of the insulation scraping. 2. Drill the second 1/16” hole next to the trace. For the 5. Tin the traces in prep for the choke leads. location, see the schematics. It is near the location of C12. Fender Champion “600” • Mercury Upgrade Kit This project and its documentation is the result of technical investigations made by the engineering staff of Mercury Magnetics. The disclosure of the information herein may pertain to proprietary rights and the furnishing of these documents does not constitute an expresed or implied license to use such materials.
  • Page 19 Referring to the chassis schematic on page 11, mark the new hole locations for the output transformer and choke, then using a 3/16” drill bit make the 2 holes for the choke and the 4 holes for the output transformer. 2 NEW HOLES FOR CHOKE 4 NEW HOLES FOR OUTPUT TRANSFORMER This reference shot shows the 2 holes for the choke and 4 for the output transformer. Solder the output transformer’s speaker leads in place Solder the “Center Tap” to the filaments (from the power (green and green/black wires) as shown. transformer) into the location shown at R15. Soldered choke leads. Solder the 2 brown leads from the choke to the circuit board. They go into the 1/16” holes you made. Fender ’Champion “600” • Mercury Upgrade Kit This project and its documentation is the result of technical investigations made by the engineering staff of Mercury Magnetics. The disclosure of the information herein may pertain to proprietary rights and the furnishing of these documents does not constitute an expresed or implied license to use such materials.
  • Page 20 IMPORTANT NOTE Fender reports that with the first batch of Champion “600” amps there was a minor shielding problem. Paint was inadvertently left on the chassis mounting tabs (the tabs on the far left and right of the chassis – see photo). This paint interferes with the ground and will cause amp noise if not corrected. It’s an easy fix. To determine if you have this problem, look at the end tabs of the chassis mounting holes. If there is paint on these tabs you must sand it off. Sand to remove all paint from the outer side of the tab. The inner side is not necessary. The idea is that when the chassis is inserted into the cabinet that it grounds against the metal foil in the chassis rack area. Likewise, if this metal foil is ripped or torn, you should patch it up with new foil. Heavy-duty aluminum foil will do the trick. This problem was caught quite early in production. So, not all Champion’s will require this correction. If the two end tabs on the chassis have paint on them, To fix it just sand off the paint, down to themetal on the you’ll have a grounding problem. outer side of both tabs. The foil provides grounding and ground-shielding for the chassis. If the ground is bad, the amp will make excessive noise. If the foil is torn-away onthe chassis rack area of the case, you’ll need to repair it. Heavy-duty tin foil from your local grocery store can be used to remedy the problem. Fender Champion “600” • Mercury Upgrade Kit This project and its documentation is the result of technical investigations made by the engineering staff of Mercury Magnetics. The disclosure of the information herein may pertain to proprietary rights and the furnishing of these documents does not constitute an expresed or implied license to use such materials.
  • Page 21 Fender ’Champion “600” • Mercury Upgrade Kit This project and its documentation is the result of technical investigations made by the engineering staff of Mercury Magnetics. The disclosure of the information herein may pertain to proprietary rights and the furnishing of these documents does not constitute an expresed or implied license to use such materials.
  • Page 22 Final re-assembly reference photographs. Note: When bolting the OT and Mini-Choke into the chassis, run the bolts UP through the chassis – not down into it. This will prevent the possibility of electrical arcing. Fender Champion “600” • Mercury Upgrade Kit This project and its documentation is the result of technical investigations made by the engineering staff of Mercury Magnetics. The disclosure of the information herein may pertain to proprietary rights and the furnishing of these documents does not constitute an expresed or implied license to use such materials.
  • Page 23 AND/OR SERIOUS HARM TO YOURSELF! Using a Variac & Current Meter Don’t power-up your amp without ’em! NOTE: IF YOU ARE NOT A QUALIFIED AMP TECH, DO NOT ATTEMPT TO POWER UP YOUR MODIFIED AMPLIFER, YET. INSTEAD, Mercury RECOMMENDS THAT IT BE INSPECTED BY A QUALIFIED TECHNICIAN. AN AMP TECH WILL GO OVER YOUR WORK AND VERIFY THAT IT IS SAFE TO POWER IT UP. After modifying your amp, the next step is to power it up using a variac and current meter. The Variac and current meter allows you to slowly add voltage while checking the indicators to make sure that your handiwork is correct. Without a variac you run the extreme risk of frying your amp or some of its components, getting hurt, electrocuted, etc. A Variac is a standard amp tech tool. No amp tech should be without one. They are available from many electronic stores or online, eBay, etc. Prices start at about $50 and go up from there. The better units (such as the Tenma isolated variable AC power supply shown in these photos) include output current metering. Consider that the cost of a Variac is free, because a single error without one can easily cost more than the Variac itself! As the following instructions show, you’ll need to monitor the output current while increasing power to the amp with the Variac. If your Variac doesn’t have a self-contained current meter this can also be done with a separate amperes meter connected to the fuse-holder of the amp (with the fuse removed). Specific instructions for how to use Variacs and current meters are beyond the scope of this manual. Check the web or owner manuals of the devices for specific methods. Fender ’Champion “600” • Mercury Upgrade Kit This project and its documentation is the result of technical investigations made by the engineering staff of Mercury Magnetics. The disclosure of the information herein may pertain to proprietary rights and the furnishing of these documents does not constitute an expresed or implied license to use such materials.
  • Page 24 STEP A: Make sure that your amp is OFF. Plug it into the Variac. The Variac is OFF with the output voltage knob set to zero (0). Turn on the Variac’s power. Then, turn on the amp’s power. Variac: A variable transformer used to vary AC voltages. Also the tradename for a brand of variable AC transformer. There are other brands, but the term is generically used to describe all of them. A variac allows adjustment of the incoming AC mains voltage. The better quality units have meters for voltage and current, or both, and fuses for protection. Variacs come in many shapes and sizes. But their function is basically the same. If your variac does not have an amperes (current) meter, you’ll need to use a separate meter. NOTE: The Variac in the photo to the left does not have an amperes meter whereas the Tenma model does. Fender Champion “600” • Mercury Upgrade Kit This project and its documentation is the result of technical investigations made by the engineering staff of Mercury Magnetics. The disclosure of the information herein may pertain to proprietary rights and the furnishing of these documents does not constitute an expresed or implied license to use such materials.
  • Page 25 STEP B: Turn on the amp’s power. STEP C: While watching the current (amp) meter, slowly roll on the Variac’s output voltage knob. The amp should turn on at about 45 volts. When you get to about 60 volts you don’t want to see more than a few hundred milliamps. If the current meter reaches anywhere above half an amp, roll the Variac back to zero, shut everything down, discharge the caps, and look for the error, short or bad component. Correct the problem and repeat until this test passes. STEP D: Once you can reach 120 volts drawing less than half an amp, you are in good shape. NOTE: If you don’t have a current meter on your Variac, remove the fuse from the amp, and with an amp meter across the empty fuse holder socket, turn on the amp and perform the test above. Fender ’Champion “600” • Mercury Upgrade Kit This project and its documentation is the result of technical investigations made by the engineering staff of Mercury Magnetics. The disclosure of the information herein may pertain to proprietary rights and the furnishing of these documents does not constitute an expresed or implied license to use such materials.
  • Page 26 Repair to a damaged eyelet: The lead from component bypass- es the damaged eyelet and is soldered to either a revealed trace or another terminal on the same trace (as in this example). require patching and repair work as you make the Upgrade. This is normal, and easy to do – as long as you know a few tricks. Revealing a Trace: Sometimes we need to “reveal” traces so that the PCB can be modified or repaired. An easy way to do this is to take a sharp knife or Exacto and carefully scrape away the lamination to “reveal” the copper foil under it. Use high-grade (99%) Isopropyl alcohol and a Q-tip to clean these new contacts before soldering to them. Various examples: 1. Jumper. 2. Jumper. 3. Trace repair (jumper soldered from terminal to terminal on same trace). 4. How to Repair Damaged Eyelets: The PCB’s Trace repair (ditto). 5. Damaged eyelet repair (lead is soldered to conductive eyelets are easily damaged and a revealed trace). Continued on next page è Fender Champion “600” • Mercury Upgrade Kit This project and its documentation is the result of technical investigations made by the engineering staff of Mercury Magnetics. The disclosure of the information herein may pertain to proprietary rights and the furnishing of these documents does not constitute an expresed or implied license to use such materials.
  • Page 27 Various examples: This photo shows a cut trace, and a com- ponent lead jumpered and soldered to a revealed trace. It’s best If an eyelet is damaged or missing or the trace to not drill a hole directly into a trace. Instead make the hole off to the side of the trace and then, as in this example, solder the material around it is very thin, then you may component’s leg to the trace. consider soldering a reinforcement jumper across it. How to Cut a Trace: A “trace” is the conductive A trace cut severes the embedded metal laminent strip (foil) on a printed circuit board. It has a very on a PCB. The purpose of a trace cut is to modify or thin laminate or lacquer layer over it. Cutting a trace re-route the electrical flow of the circuit. is like clipping a wire. Use a box knife, Exacto knife or a Dremel Tool with a cutting or grinding edge attachment to make the cuts. Here’s two different ways to cut a trace: Dremel Tool Trace Fender ’Champion “600” • Mercury Upgrade Kit This project and its documentation is the result of technical investigations made by the engineering staff of Mercury Magnetics. The disclosure of the information herein may pertain to proprietary rights and the furnishing of these documents does not constitute an expresed or implied license to use such materials.
  • Page 28 The Output Transformer Circuit Mercury’s circuit equivalent of an Output Transformer Primary Self Capacitance Primary Inductance Secondary Self Capacitance Primary Resistance Interwinding Capacitance Secondary Resistance Primary Leakage Inductance Core Eddy Current Losses Secondary Leakage Inductance Core Hysteresis Losses “Blessed are the Tone Makers”...
  • Page 29 * * * soldering supplies and a volt/ohm meter (learn how to use them!). “Filter” caps can store fatal amounts of electrical current. The caps are connected near the rectifier Start by unplugging the amp from the wall, the and are part of the power supply, and aid in speakers from the amp, and removing the amp converting AC to DC. In fact, they are a standard chassis from the case. For Fender amps, removing component in any power supply. the chassis involves unscrewing the upper back case panel, then unscrewing the chassis from the If you’re completely lost, and don’t understand this, top of the case. Put the screws, nuts, and lock DON’T MODIFY YOUR AMP. You haven’t enough washers where they won’t get lost. knowledge to work on high voltage/current circuits With the chassis out of the case, you can locate safely. the filter capacitors you’ll want to avoid touching as you perform the tune-up. These will be cardboard Several ways to discharge caps: cylinders (usually orange or tan or vintage Fenders) FIRST, UNPLUG THE AMP! (But that doesn’t with “+” printed near one terminal. It’s also a good make it safe!) idea to steer clear of wiring connected to the power transformer because it’s a discharge path for the THEN, take a screwdriver or a jumper and short filter capacitors. the capacitors leads. Fender ’Champion “600” • Mercury Upgrade Kit This project and its documentation is the result of technical investigations made by the engineering staff of Mercury Magnetics. The disclosure of the information herein may pertain to proprietary rights and the furnishing of these documents does not constitute an expresed or implied license to use such materials.
  • Page 30 Instructions Level of difficulty: Moderate Step 1: Strip about 1/4 inch of insulation off each end of a 2-foot length of insulated copper wire, and solder one end of the wire to one of the leads of a high wattage resistor. The resistance required can be determined by adding 5 to 50 ohms per volt of the capacitor’s rating. For instance, a 100V capacitor would require a resistor rated anywhere from 500 to 5k ohms. Step 2: Attach the other end of the wire to an alligator clip. Filter Capacitor Discharge Tool Step 3: Solder the free lead of the resistor to a short piece of bare copper wire. 1. Safety glasses. Always use safety glasses. If you wire a capacitor in backwards there is a very Step 4: Tape the resistor and bare copper wire to good chance that it will explode in your face. one end of a length of non-conductive material, Fender Champion “600” • Mercury Upgrade Kit This project and its documentation is the result of technical investigations made by the engineering staff of Mercury Magnetics. The disclosure of the information herein may pertain to proprietary rights and the furnishing of these documents does not constitute an expresed or implied license to use such materials.
  • Page 31 3. From the chassis to a tube pin. This can be (about 5 minutes, if the amp has bleeder resistors this time will be shorter) then, while the discharge done at pin 3 of any power tube, or pins 1 or 6 of any preamp tube. By shorting the chassis tool is still in place recheck all the capacitors with your multi-meter and keep that other hand behind to the correct pin the caps will be forced to drain through the plate load of that tube. This you. Keep checking until the voltage has reached prevents sparking from high current. a safe level. Note: This procedure must be done every time you turn the amp on then off. IMPORTANT NOTE, HOW NOT TO DO IT: In old Remember to remove the discharge tool before electronics books they tell you to use a screw driver with an insulated handle to short out the caps. powering on the amp. Make it a bright color like Fender ’Champion “600” • Mercury Upgrade Kit This project and its documentation is the result of technical investigations made by the engineering staff of Mercury Magnetics. The disclosure of the information herein may pertain to proprietary rights and the furnishing of these documents does not constitute an expresed or implied license to use such materials.
  • Page 32 1. Never work on an amp if you’re tired, fatigued, fuse in series with the resistor on the discharge frustrated or intoxicated. tool in case you forget to remove it. 2. Never work while distracted. Filter capacitors are wired in parallel, so draining one should drain them all, but never assume. 3. Never work on an amp around small children. Always recheck for residual voltage in every filter There are just too many dangers involved to capacitor until there’s absolutely no doubt in your take that chance. mind that all are drained. 4. Try to have a plan in case something does go Less than 5 volts is safe, but I prefer to drain mine wrong. You might consider asking someone in to 1 volt for peace of mind. Don’t be surprised if you your household to take a CPR class. find the capacitors slowly recharging themselves. 5. Take your time and don’t rush. This phenomenon is known as dielectric absorption and is quite normal in electrolytic capacitors. The 6. Use common sense. filter caps shouldn’t recharge to a lethal level, but http://tubenewbie.com/discharge_capacitors.html leave the discharge tool in place while working on the amp. Fender Champion “600” • Mercury Upgrade Kit This project and its documentation is the result of technical investigations made by the engineering staff of Mercury Magnetics. The disclosure of the information herein may pertain to proprietary rights and the furnishing of these documents does not constitute an expresed or implied license to use such materials.