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How It Works
Plating Time and Thickness
The thickness of the plating depends on the amount of time the part
is left in the solution. There are no "fixed times" for leaving parts in
the plating bath; experience and practice will guide you. Try to find
some scrap pieces to practice on before doing "the good stuff". Larger
objects take longer than smaller objects, with the maximum being about
thirty minutes. To give you a rough guide, the average bolt takes about
three to four minutes for sufficient plating build-up. Over-plating can
happen and should be avoided. You will know if you have over-plated
the part if it comes out of the bath with a rough, crusty surface. If this
happens, you will have to remove the plating and start over. Plating can
be slowly removed by reversing the polarity at the battery.
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For technical assistance e-mail: techelp@eastwoodcompany.com
Attach Clip to The Part
After properly cleaning the part,
attach the copper clip on the end
of the black wire to the part to be
plated. Try to attach the clip as close
as possible to the edge of the piece,
or to a section that will not be visible
when the part is reassembled. Also, a
length of copper wire can be used to
connect the part to the clip if needed.
Place The Part in the Solution
Place the part into the solution
making sure that it does not contact
the anode on the way down. If the
part touches the anode during
plating, a discoloration may form at
the point of contact. Make sure the
part is fully submerged. Any portion
of the piece that remains above the
surface of the fluid will not plate. It is
acceptable to submerge the copper
clip into the solution but better to use
a copper extension wire. It will be
plated along with the part.
Final Finishing of Plated Parts
Check the part about every three to four minutes. The gray film
that forms on the surface of the anode is normal. Plating efficiency
decreases as the gray film builds on the anode. Take the anode out of
the bath after about every fifth part that has been plated and clean it
by brushing gently with a nylon brush (a clean toothbrush works great)
under clean running water. Note: For extended anode life, reposition
the anode so that a different area of the bar is in contact with the
electrolyte. When you have completed plating the part, remove it from
the solution and rinse it for about sixty seconds in fresh water. The part
is now ready for final finishing.
Final Finishing
Your part is now electroplated with real
metal tin which will resist corrosion and
rusting with minimal care.
The gray film which forms over the part
while plating can be removed easily by
hand, using the Autosol polish included
in your kit. Machine buffing of the finished piece is
not necessary nor is it recommended.
Parts which are pitted on the surface can be
finished with an attractive satin sheen by lightly
glass beading them or by using a fine scuff pad.
For best long-term durability, degrease with PRE
or Acetone and coat with Diamond Clear Gloss for
Bare Metal (#10200Z) or Extreme Diamond Clear
(#29894Z).
With a little imagination, you can see the many
uses for your electroplating system. It can be
used for cars, boats, antiques, jewelry or virtually
anything made of metal. The alloy which is
deposited on the surface is non-toxic and lead-
free, so it is environmentally safe.
Pieces treated with the electroplating system have
an excellent corrosion resistant base which can
be easily painted over without such compatibility
problems as lifting or bleed-through.
The system is not recommended for use over chrome plated parts or
for large parts such as bumpers or wheels.
To order parts and supplies, call 1-800-345-1178 or visit www.eastwood.com
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