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TALON CLAW U ASSEMBLY
The Talon Claw U is a Mag-Fed Pump-Action Homemade Nerf Blaster design for half-length darts ONLY released as a CC-
You are welcome to and encouraged to modify the files in any way you want. The Majority of the parts can be printed
with infill as low as 20% in PLA, but I would recommend printing in layers of 300 Micron or smaller. I would recommend
Hardware blaster kits are available for sale as made-to-order items. I'm producing these myself in what remains of my
DO NOT STORE IN TEMPERATURES ABOVE 100F. Storing the blaster inside of a car in warmer months will
cause the printed parts to distort or warp beyond their intended shape. If you have to store one in a vehicle,
DO NOT use this blaster for indoor wars or wars involving very short distances. The muzzle velocities this
design can reach are between 150fps and 210fps depending upon the darts used and the spring installed. If
indoor use is intended, obtain the lower fps springs that are currently available for this design (K31 and 788)
NC license file set by Captain Slug (http://www.captainslug.com).
a minimum of 1.5mm walls/perimeters for every part.
https://www.etsy.com/shop/CaptainSlug
free time.
store it in the trunk.
and use them.
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Summary of Contents for Captain Slug TALON CLAW U
- Page 1 TALON CLAW U ASSEMBLY The Talon Claw U is a Mag-Fed Pump-Action Homemade Nerf Blaster design for half-length darts ONLY released as a CC- NC license file set by Captain Slug (http://www.captainslug.com). You are welcome to and encouraged to modify the files in any way you want. The Majority of the parts can be printed with infill as low as 20% in PLA, but I would recommend printing in layers of 300 Micron or smaller.
- Page 2 For most of the above hardware list the quantities are the MINIMUM required for assembly. Easily-lost items will have several spares and I typically include extras of the majority of the items. To assemble this blaster you will need a Slotted Screwdriver, Small Philips Screwdriver, 3/8 Combination Wrench, and a Round Needle File.
- Page 3 Above is a list of every printed part needed to assemble this blaster. The majority of the through holes should print to the required tolerance, but you will likely have one or two that may require minimal filing. Also make sure to trim off any burrs or oversized edges.
- Page 4 Place a 10-32 hex nut onto the end of a 1-3/4” length screw, then push the hex nut into the front of the spring guide of BackButt until it bottoms out. Unscrew the long screw from the hex nut. Insert the long screw through the Endplate (inf included) then in from the back of the EndCap and screw it into the hex nut until tight.
- Page 5 Insert a hex nut into each of the sockets in one of the nameplate prints using a hammer. Secure the nameplate with the embedded hex nuts into the Magfront and Magback prints using 4-40 screws. Insert the mag release prints into Magback and insert a short pin through the holes all three prints. Push one of the U-channels onto the side of the resulting assembly with the two closely-spaced holes towards the rear, and the two further spaced holes towards the front as shown.
- Page 6 Slide a magazine into the open magwell to check fit. If the fit is too tight loosen then retighten the upper pair of long screws. Once fit of the magazine is confirmed, tighten the lower 4-40 screws the rest of the way. Push the Ramrod Core into the RamBase print, then secure it with a 4-40 screws from each side.
- Page 7 Slide the bolt arms through the slots in the back of the magwell assembly. Apply a little bit of lubricant inside both ends of the plunger tube. Slide the plunger tube into Magback and onto the rear of the ramrod base. Set this assembly aside.
- Page 8 Rock the Sear back to allow the Trigger print in through the top of the assembly making sure to get it under the Sear5 print. Line up the hole in the Trigger print with the matching holes in the assembly and drive a short pin through both. Slide the Tguard print into the square hole in the front of the grip print, then secure by driving a 4-40 screw in through each side.
- Page 9 long 10-32 screw. Push the Coupler print into the U-Channel, around/over the Sear5 print, onto the Plunger tube, and then up against the back of the Grip assembly. Push one of the U-channels onto the side of the resulting assembly with the two closely-spaced holes as shown. If the u- channel doesn’t want to be pushed into place you may need to loosen the long 10-32 screws and lower 4-40 screws.
- Page 10 Secure the Endcap to the coupler with two long 10-32 screws. (If included) secure the Buttplate assembly to the end of the u-channel pair with 4-40 screws. Slide the base foregrip onto the bolt arms and secure with short 10-32 screws. Add a hex nut to the hex socket inside the barrel hole in the MagFront print.
- Page 11 Secure it to the front end of the u-channel pair with 4-40 screws. Slide the barrel in through the Muzzle print, DoomS print, and MagFront print until it is flush with the back side of the MagFront print where indicated. Tighten both screws indicated to clamp the barrel in place.
- Page 12 Add the foregrip accessory of your choice to the base foregrip rail segment. If included, install the Muzzle print onto the exposed end of the barrel. Loosen the two screws that hold the muzzle print into the ends of the u-channel pair. Slide the Rail segment prints inbetween the Muzzle print, and the Magfront print so that all of the positive keyways in each print face toward the rear.
- Page 13 Insert a magazine into the magwell. If the fit is too tight you may need to loosen the screw that clamps the barrel into the muzzle, then the two that attach the front of the NamePlate prints to the MagFront print. Then retighten once the magazine fit feels correct.
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