Royal Enfield 350 BULLET 1949 Workshop Maintenance Manual page 66

ROYAL ENFIELD WORKSHOP MANUAL
5. Steering Head Races
The steering head bearing consists of two deep
groove thrust races each containing nineteen 1/4 in.
diameter balls. The bearing is adjusted by tightening
the steering stem locknut after loosening the nuts on
the three pinch bolts which secure the fork head to the
steering stem and to the two main tubes. The head
should be adjusted so that when the front wheel is
lifted clear of the ground a light tap on the handlebars
will cause the steering to swing to full lock in either
direction, while at the same time there should be only
the slightest trace of play in the bearings. When
testing for freedom of movement the steering
damper, if fitted, should be disconnected by
unscrewing the anchor plate pin.
Adjustment of the steering head depends on the
ability of the fork head to slide on the steering stem
and on the fork main tubes. A rubber washer is
interposed between the fork head and the top of the
lamp bracket tube to permit the necessary movement.
If this rubber washer is fully compressed while there
is still some play in the steering head it will be
necessary to remove the fork head (see paragraph 6)
and shorten the lamp bracket tube by, say, 1/32 in.
Alternatively, if the lamp bracket tube is loose when
the steering head is correctly adjusted, it can be
tightened by fitting an additional steel washer (Part
No. 35974) beneath the rubber washer.
It is also possible that the steering head cannot be
adjusted because the main tube is bottoming in the
recess in the fork head in which it fits. In this case the
nuts on the fork crown clamp stud, must be loosened
and the sleeves separated (see paragraph 7) thus
permitting the main tubes to slide through the fork
crown. Do not forget to tighten the fork head pinch
bolts and the nuts on the fork crown clamp studs after
adjusting the steering head. Before tightening the
latter make sure that the cover tubes are located
centrally round the main tubes so that the bottom tube
does not rub inside the lower end of the cover tube. A
pair of split bushes (Fig. 3) is useful to ensure
centralisation of the cover tubes.
6. Removal of Facia Panel Fork Head, Spring, etc.
To remove the Facia Panel Fork Head for access
to the lamp bracket tubes (or to change the fork
spring without disturbing the bearings) proceed as
follows-disconnect all control cables at the handlebar
end and remove the headlamp from the lamp
brackets. The switch panel can conveniently be
removed from the back of the lamp so that the body
of the lamp can be removed completely.
Now remove the two Fork Spring Guide Bolts
from the fork head, unscrew the nuts on the fork head
clip bolt and the two main tube clip bolts, remove the
three clip bolt sleeves and knock out the three clip
bolts. The facia panel fork head can now be tapped
gently upwards with a hide mallet or a hammer and a
wooden drift but care must be taken to hit only the
more solid parts of the fork head, i.e. beneath the
handlebar clip and at the back of the main tubes,
avoiding the underside of the comparatively thin
portion in front of the speedometer.
Section J3 Page 3